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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.! 



HYATT'S HAND-BOOK 



OF 



GRAPE CULTURE. 



REVISED EDITION, 1876. 



TESTIMONIALS. 



S. F. Daily Evening Bulletin.— The work contains a choice collec- 
tion of the best foreign and native varieties of the grape for culti- 
vation in California especially, as well as at the East. The many 
excellent works on Grape Culture in the Atlantic States are of little 
or no value in California, where an entirely different system and 
practice are necessary in vine-growing and wine-making. This 
hand-book is intended to supply this deficiency. Its appearance is 
timely, and it can hardly fail to meet a large and ready sale. It is 
attractively printed and elegantly bound. 



S. F. Mining and Scientific Press.— The work contains a great 
amount of valuable information which is not generally found in 
such treatises. 



8. F. Daily Examiner. — We are glad to see that this subject has 
engaged the attention of a gentleman eminently qualified by educa- 
tion, reading and experience, to do it justice. 

We predict for it a great success. It is just such a work as the 
public wants require. The author brings to bear on his work much 
enthusiasm and a large experience, gained not only in foreign lands 
where the vine flourishes, but derived from practical attention to the 
subject in California. We strongly advise every farmer to procure 
a copy of the book. 



Sacramento Union. — The author takes the experience of the most 
noted vine-growers in the State as the warrant for his conclusions 
and suggestions, turns to account the recorded results of experiments 
made by the pioneers of this branch of industry, and, in addition to 
giving full and minute instructions in regard to the planting of vine- 
yards and the manufacture of wines, presents statistics which will 
enable the beginner to calculate the probable profits of successful 
grape culture. 



San Jose Mercury. — The author of the above work, T. Hart Hyatt, 
it will be remembered by horticulturists, edited the Oalifornia Rural 
Home Journal. He is a vigorous writer, of ripe experience, and an 
eminently practical man. The work before us is especially adapted 
to the State of California, and treats of vine-growing and wine-mak- 
ing in all their minute details. We advise all vintners to procure a 
copy as soon as practicable. 



TESTIMONIALS. 

Grass Valley Union. — The author has traveled extensively, has 
made grape culture a life stud}-, and his practical, common-sense 
views on the subject of grape-growing at once convince the reader 
that Mr. Hyatt thoroughly understands his subject. With a little 
careful study of the culture of the grape, in possession of practical 
information such as is furnished by Hyatt's work, our foot-hill 
grape-growers can at least double their annual yields. California 
is the grape-producing country in the world, and the man who now 
fails to plant a vineyard, no matter how small it may be, will, be- 
fore many years, have cause to regret his apathy, ; 



^ Petaluma Journal and Argus.—The book is in every respect what 
its title indicates, and should be immediately secured by every one 
interested in grape culture. We can heartily recommend this work 
to all our readers who desire useful information on the subject of 
which it treats. 



Santa Cruz Sentinel.— After perusing the book, we feel justified 
in recommending it to all grape-growers as an unsurpassed treatise 
on the production of wine and grapes. 



Mountain Democrat. — We have received from the publishers a 
cojDy of this interesting and valuable w^ork. We sent it for exami- 
nation to Mr. Chas. P. Jackson, a gentleman familiar with the sub- 
ject, and largely engaged in the culture of the grape. Mr. Jackson 
says: "lam satisfied that it is a work which every grape-grower 
should have. No matter how well fortified we may be in our own 
experience and theory, we must acknowledge that we may adopt 
many of the author's ideas and suggestions with profit. The merit 
of the work certainly bespeaks for it a ready sale .' ' 



Charles Downing. — £)n the whole, I am joleased with your book. 
From all T could see and hear (on his visit to California, in 1871), 
I concluded that grape-growing and wine-making was just fairly 
commenced; and I have no doubt California will prove the best 
country in the world for growing grapes and making wine, and at 
the least expense. 



Moore's Rural New Yorker. — Although most valuable to the Cali- 
fornia vineyardist, yet it helps to widen our knowledge of the vine. 
To the vine-planter on the Pacific slope, it will be a welcome guide 
and helper. 



American Agriculturist (New York City).— It contains many use- 
ful statistics and descriptions of the varieties cultivated on the Pa- 
cific Coast, and will, no doubt, be found useful in that remarkable 
grape region. 



HYATT'S HAND-BOOK 

OF 

GEAPE CULTTJEE; 

OE, 

WAY, WHEEE, WHEN AND HOW 

TO PIANT AND CULTIVATB A 

VINEYAED, MANUFACTURE WINES, ETC., 

ESPECIALLY ADAPTED TO 

THE STATE OF OALIEOENIA. 

AS, ALSO, TO THE 

UNITED STATES, GENERALLY. 



r, ^ 



T. HART HYATT, 



EDITOR OF "CALIFORNIA RURAL HOME JOURNAL," FORMERLY CONSUL GENERAL 

OF THE UNITED STAT^ TO THE EMPIRE OF MOROCCO, AND EIGHT YEARS 

UNITED STATES CONSUL TO CHINA, ETC. 



SECOND EDITION: 

With an Api>eiidix recording the Progress, Improvements and Statistics ol 
Grape Culture in California up to the Centennial Year. 



SAN FRANCISCO : 

A. L. BANCROFT & COMPANY 
1876. 




Entere;! riccording to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, 

By T. hart HYATT, 

In tliG Clerk's OlSse of the District Court of the United States for the 
District of California. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876, 

By T. hart HYATT, 

In the Oastco of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 






\\ 



TO TEB 

HOE'OEABLE EZEA COEI^ELL, 

BKNATOR OP TEE STATE OF NEW TORE:, 

THB 

ENLIGHTENED AND LIBERAL FRIEND AND PATRON 

OF 

§.grittiltural anb porticnlfural progress anb Improfrcment ' 

CULMINATINa IN HIS LAST GRAND ENTERPRISE, 



ESTABLISHING AND ENDOWING OF THAT MOST 
NOBLE INSTITUTION, 

THE CORNELL UISriVERSITY, 

AT ITHACA, N. T., 
.HIS LITTLE WORK ON GRAPE CULTURE 



RESPECTFULLY AND CORDIALLY DEDICATED 
BY HIS 
FRIEND IND FORMER FELLOW TOWNSMAN 

THE AUTHOR. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Introduction ......••• 

Paet I. — Inducements to Engage in tiie Cultuee of tee Geape 
Paet II. — Climatb Best Adapted to the Geowtii of the Vine 
Paet III.— Best Soils foe a Vineyaed .... 

Paet IV. — Location, Site and Exposuhe fob a Vineyaed 
Paet V. — Peepaeing the Geound .... 

Paet VL — Laying out and Planting the Vineyaed 
Paet VII. — ^Peuning and After Culture 
Paet VIIL — Best Vabieties of Geapes for a Vineyard 
Paet IX. — Vineyards of Morocco and Spain: Compaeed with Cali- 
fornia. The Author''s First Vineyaed in the "Land op 
THE Mooe" ... . . . . 

Part X. — ^Thb Vintage; Gathering the Geapes; Packing; Market- 
ing, ETC. ...... 

Paet XL — Wine Making and Its Inoidbntals . . 

Part XII. — Califoenia "Wines and Wine Vineyards 

Part XIII.— European Wines ..... 

Part XIV. — Cold Graperies ..... 

Part XV. — ^Diseases and Insects Injurious to the Grape 
Part XVI. — Mi8cklla.ny Viniculttral .... 



page 
7 



19 
31 
41 
55 
67 
73 
113 
181 



ISl 

193 
201 
217 
227 
233 
239 
249 



CONTENTS OF THE APPENDIX, 1876. 



PAGE 

Pbeface to the Bevised Edition and Appendix . . 18a 

Pabt I.— Peogkessand PeospectsofGkape Cultuke,1876. 

Eakliest Grapes in Maeket, etc. . . i 

Paet II. — The Geape Interest of Califoenia, by Coun- 
ties, in 1873-4; Sueveyoe-Geneeai.'s Tables, 
partially corrected, showing Vine and 
Wine Interest of each County . . v 

Part III. — Geapes of Commerce, for Table and Family 
Use — Supplemental List ; Twelve Best 
Varieties for the Table ; The Earliest, 
etc. vii 

Part IV. — Kaisins and Eaisin Grapes .... xiv 

Part V. — California "Wine and "Wine Grapes — Supple- 
mental List ; Twelve Premium Varieties, 

ETC. Xix 

Paet VI. — Chief Wine and Vine Geowees of the State: 

Of Sonoma County, etc xxvii 

Paet VII. — List of Best Wine Grapes in Feance . . xxx 

Part VIII. — Diseases and Pests of the Vine; Phylloxera, 

ETC. . . . . , . . . xxxvi 
( vi ) 



INTEODUOTION. 



Geape Ctjltuee in Califoenia, although it had its commence- 
ment nearly a century ago, has, until a recent period of time, been 
of very limited extent, confined principally to the narrow limits 
occupied as missionary stations, by the Jesuit missionaries from 
Spain. They selected, generally, the most fertile regions of Cali- 
fornia, and those supposed to have the most genial, healthful cli- 
mate. And, as their secondary object, next to that of propagating 
their religious creed, was to encourage the culture of the soil, and 
the improvement of agriculture and horticulture around their 
several missions ; and, coming, as they did, from one of the finest 
grape growing countries of the world, it was very natural that 
they should have brought with them, not only the taste and ex- 
perience of the best viniculturists, but also choice specimens of 
the grapes of Spain, their father-land. Hence, it is presumed, we 
owe the origin of what is at this day known as the Mission grape 
of California ; a very excellent grape it still is, but as the world 
has advanced, somewhat, during a century of time, it is to be ex- 
pected that the science of grape culture, and the improvement of 
the varieties and qualities of the fruit, would have also advanced ; 
and the good fruit of a century ago, has been outrivaled, though 



8 INTRODUCTION-. 

not yet quite superseded, by a better fruit of to-day. As we have 
intimated, it is only of comparatively recent date, since California 
came into the possession of the United States and the occupancy 
of its people, that grape culture has been extended, and greatly 
improved in this country. But, as in all cases vs^here our Ameri- 
can people set out to do anything, they go at it with a rush^ to 
use a homely but expressive phrase, and are not always guided by 
the coolest judgment or most prudent discretion. What is too 
hastily done, is not apt to be well done. Hence, in rushing wildly 
into the culture of the vine, a few years since, as soon as it was 
found that California had a climate and soil unrivaled for such a 
purpose, they did not stop to think that there might be spots 
even in this fairy clime, where grape culture would be less suc- 
cessful than in other still more highly favored localities. 

As a case in point : We inquired of a friend, who had long been 
a resident of California, why he did not go into the culture of the 
grape? He replied that he had done so at an early day, and 
that the result was an entire failure. We suggested that he 
must have chosen an unfavorable locality, unfit soil, etc. He ad- 
mitted that such was the fact ; that he commenced in the neigh- 
borhood of the Bay of San Francisco, and as a matter of course 
in such a damp, foggy climate, he could expect nothing but fail- 
ure. But with more than 10,000,000 of acres of the choicest 
grape lands in the world, in California, there is now no excuse for 
choosing an unfavorable soil or location for a vineyard in this 
State. 

We have studied and examined this matter somewhat thor- 
oughly ; and we are satisfied, and have endeavored to explain to 
our readers in the following pages, that there is now no reason fo; 



INTRODUCTION. 9 

making a mistake in the selection of the proper climate, soil, and 
location for grape growing. 

This brings us to the point of our subject where it may be 
proper to give the reasons, 

Why ice were induced to write this Hand-Booh of Grape Culture. 
The Author, having some years since purchased several thousand 
acres of the choicest vine-growing lands in California, located in 
the counties of ^tTapa, Solano and Yolo, and selected therefrom 
one hundred acres for a home- vineyard (which hath been chris- 
tened " Mount Glenwood "), and while making preparations to go 
on with his plantation the coming winter, he wished to profit by 
the experience of those who had not only studied the subject of 
grape culture in California thoroughly, but had also had practical 
experience in the matter, and bring them to aid his own experi- 
ence and observations, gained by several years' residence in Cali- 
fornia. In gathering these experiences together, and noting them 
in book form, for his own convenience, he found he had a mass of 
useful information that was of the utmost importance to him, 
and without which he could not well go to work intelligently, or 
with any fair prospect of success. And hence, the idea sug- 
gested itself to him, that what was so essential to his own guid- 
ance and success, might also be of equal benefit to others. And 
some judicious friends, to whom he had suggested his plans, 
approved of them, and urged him to prepare a work that all 
might avail themselves of, who wished to engage in grape cul- 
ture in California, or who take an interest in the subject. 

And, therefore, this little Hand-Book of Geape Cultueb 
maketh its appearance. 

Nor do we confine our work simply to California. But in its 
1* 



10 INTRODUCTION. 

progress we found it necessary to embrace grape culture in the 
United States generally, with glances at the systems practiced in 
Europe. 

The author, having spent many years in foreign countries, in 
climates similar to that of California, is enabled to give the result 
of his observations and experience in those countries, which may 
be of practical benefit in California. After several years' resi- 
dence on the borders of the Mediterranean, with frequent 
explorations in the south of Spain ; and an eight years' residence 
in China, visiting Java, spending a summer in Japan, visiting tlie 
Island of Cuba, South and Central America, etc. ; he has come 
to the conclusion that of all the countries he has become ac- 
quainted with, California presents altogether the most favorable 
prospects for the culture of the grape, as well as all the semi- 
tropical fruits; and believes it will ere long be distinguished as 
the " Land of the Vine, the Fig, the Orange, the Olive, and the 
Palm." 

There is, perhaps, no employment more agreeable, or more 
remunerative, than the culture of the vine. Its origin dates far 
back into the remote ages of antiquity ; and it must have flour- 
ished in the garden of Eden ; and it seems not to have been a 
forbidden fruity like the apple. 

And to Adam, God said : " Behold I have given you every herl) 
bearing seed, which is upon the face of all the earth, and every tree, 
in the which is the fruit of a tree yielding seed ; to you it shall be 
for meaty " And God saw everything that he had made, and behold 
it was very good.''"' Gen. i. : 29, 31. 

The first direct account, however, that we have of the culture 
of the vine, is in the B^ok of Genesis, ix. : 20 : " And Noah began 



INTRODUCTION. 1 1 

to be an husbandman, and planted a vinei/ard, and drank of the 
wine" — and — behaved very improperly ! 

It was not till after the flood, when Father Noah, having been 
kept so long on water, thought of resorting to wine^ and did so, 
a little too freely. He does not seem to have been as considerate 
even as the heathen poet Ovid, who came some centuries after 
him. Ovid says: 

I owQ I think of wine the moderate use, 
More suits the sex and sooner finds excuse ; 
It warms the blood, adds lustre to the eyes, 
And wine and love have ever been allies ; 
But carefully from aM intemperance keep. 
Nor drink till you see double, lisp or sleep. 

And here, this little extract forms an opportune and appropriate 
text or motto, from which to add a few remarks in reply to the 
question, " Does the production and use of wine necessarily tend 
to induce or encourage intemperance .?" We answer most emphati- 
cally and understandingly, No! In all our experience and ob- 
servation in the wine districts of Europe, and among all classes of 
Europeans where cheap, pure wines were abundant, and the com- 
mon beverage of the people, we remarked it then, and have reflected 
much upon it since, and all these observations and reflections have 
left upon our mind the full and clear impression and belief, that 
there was far less intemperance among the people of those vine 
growing and wine making countries than in our own, where all 
kinds of foul, poisoned, adulterated stuff, under the name of whiskey, 
hrandy, rum, gin, etc., are drunk by our people for the want of 
a purer, more nourishing, and harmless beverage, like that of the 
pure juice of the grape, now made by all honest viniculturists in 



12 INTEODCrCTION. 

our own country. We do not mean the bogus, doctored, drugged 
liquids often palmed off upon our people as good foreign and 
domestic wines ; but the pure juice of the grape, such as is now 
being turned out in great abundance by our vintners in California, 
and which can be bought at a price that brings it within the 
reach of almost every one. Corn and wine, in the Bible, are put 
forth for all kinds of necessaries for subsistence. See Psalms, gen- 
erally. In Spain, where pure, cheap wines are drunk almost as 
commonly as water, we do not recollect to have scarcely ever met 
with an intoxicated man. 

Pure cheap wines are, in our opinion, better temperance mis- 
sionaries, and will do more to expel from our midst the accursed 
fire-water that has done so much to demoralize and debase its 
victims in our land, than can all the over zealous crusaders 
against wine-growing and wine-drinking that are sent forth by 
our temperance organizations, no doubt from very good, but mis- 
taken motives of philanthropy. 

And he who speaks thus, feels he has a right thus to speak. For 
he can say (and does it in no spirit of boasting) what probably few 
of the modern apostles of temperance can themselves say, that 
after a life of over half a century, spent chiefly in large towns and 
cities, in the midst of temptations whose name was legion upon 
legion, he knows not to this day, from personal experience, what 
the sensation of being intoxicated is like. And farther, he can 
show, from the records of the times, that nearly forty years ago^ 
while yet in his teens, he wrote the first address to the young men 
of America, urging them to organize a Young Men's Temperance 
Society, aided in organizing such an institution, the First Young 
Men's Temperance Society formed in the United States ; was its 



INTRODUCTION. 13 

President, made before it his " maiden speech," an elaborately pre- 
pared Temperance Address, which was published in the papers of 
that da J. And he still feels an earnest desire to see intemperance 
banished from the land ; and believes that one of the most efficient 
means of doing it, is to encourage the growth and use of pure, 
cheap wines, the unadulterated juice of the grape. 

It is contended by some, that the taste for wine produces a taste 
for other and stronger kinds of ardent spirits. We do not believe 
it ; it is against our own observation and experience. It might as 
well be said the babe should not imbibe the milk from its mother's 
breasts, for fear it would give it a hankering after 7nillc-puncTi ! 
For there is quite as much similarity or affinity between these two 
beverages, as between the pure juice of the grape, that cheers, 
enlivens, strengthens, and makes healthful its recipients, and the 
vile, drugged, poisoned liquors which make their victims mad, 
drunk, and their " steps to take hold on hell." 

ISTo, the good things of this world are made to be used, not 
to be abused. If wine making had been a very bad business, or a 
wicked, we do not believe the Saviour would have engaged in it, or 
have been endowed with miraculous power from on high to pro- 
duce it, even for a bridal occasion. 

In China, the Chinese make and drink little or no wine; yet 
they are made drunk on opium, furnished and forced upon them by 
the Christianized, temperance preaching nations of the Occident ; 
and on samshu or sanshau, a fiery spirit, a sort of gin, distilled from 
rice ; ergo^ according to the logic of modern temperance zealots, 
the growing of rice is wicked, and ought to be tabooed and aban- 
doned, although it is the " daily bread " of one half of the human 
race — of over 600,000,000 of people. The Lascars of India, the 



14 INTRODUCTION. 

Malays of the Indian Archipelago, where no wine is made, of 
any account, rush immediately into the use of the strongest alco- 
holic drinks, without waiting to tamper or make an appetite, by 
the use of such weak stuff as common wines, whenever they come 
in contact with the seamen of our Christian nations, or can get 
access to the fiery fluid of our Christian society. And so with 
the Japanese and the Tartars. In Africa, the Moors, being Moham- 
medans, are not allowed to make or drink either wines or strong 
drinks ; yet if an occasional derelict Moor can get access to the 
aguadiente of the poor Hebrew, he for the time being, forgets 
that " Allah is great, and Mohammed is his Prophet." 

But, in our own country, it is by no means necessary that all 
who cultivate the vine should go into the business of wine 
making. Let every man who can, cultivate a vineyard. Those 
who have conscientious scruples against wine making, can raise 
grapes for the table, for making raisins, or for drying; or for 
supplying " Orape Cure " establishments, such as are being 
introduced into Germany, with success, (for a more full account 
of one of these, see part XVI,) ; there is certainly no harm in that. 

But to resume our history of the vine, 

Canaan is spoken of as a land of wheat and barley and vines ; 
and the grapes of Eshcol brought from the land of Canaan be- 
tween two spies, on a staff, is a story familiar to all. Under the 
name of Eshcol, Foster in his Hebrew Dictionary says : 

I knew a Nurnburg monk of the name of Acacius, who had 
resided eight years in Palestine, and had also preached at Hebron, 
■where he had seen bunches of grapes which were as much a? 
two men could conveniently carry. Another authority, Christo- 
pher Neitzschutz, who traveled through Palestine in the year 1634. 



INTKODUCTION. 1 5 

speaking of his excursions on the Jewish mountains, says : I can say 
with truth that I saw and ate of bunches of grapes which were 
each half an ell, and the grapes two joints of a finger in length. 

And the Syrian grapes, which we have now in California, grow 
to a very large size ; and when our vines shall reach the age of 
those in Palestine, we may make a similar exhibit as to size with 
those of its Oriental homeland. A bnnch of the Syrian grapes, 
weighing 19 lbs., is said to have been raised in England. Herod- 
otus, Strabo, Homer and other writers of antiquity, speak of 
the vine and of wine making in the most remote periods of the 
world's history. Said Pharaoh's chief butler, Gen. xl. : 9 : " In 
my dream, behold, a vine was before me, and in the vine were 
three branches ; and it was as though it budded, and her blossoms 
shot forth ; and the clusters thereof brought forth ripe grapes. 
And Pharaoh's cup was in my hand, and I took the grapes and 
pressed them into Pharaoh's cup, and I gave the cup into Pharaoh's 
hand." 

This was certainly an original and primitive way of wine mak- 
ing. Many very large grape vines are spoken of in both modern 
and ancient history. The columns of Juno's temple, Metapont, 
as well as a statue of Jupiter, for the city of Apollonium, were 
made of the wood of the vine ; and the great doors of the Ca- 
thedral of Ravenna are made of vine planks, some of which are 
twelve feet long and fifteen inches broad. In California we have 
one of the largest vines of modern times, measuring in the circum- 
ference of its trunk three feet. A more detailed description of this 
vine will be found under the head of California Varieties of the 
Grape. 

But we must not prolong our Introduction, lest we weaiy the 



] 6 ITCTRODUCriON. 

reader before coming to the more important subjects of this little 
Treatise. 

The haste with which it has been prepared, allowing us only 
about a month's time to gather together and arrange our mate- 
rials and write out its pages (which have greatly exceeded in 
number what we originally intended), must be our excuse for any 
errors or deficiencies that may be found to occur ; we wished, and 
our publishers desired to have it ready for the press as speedily 
as possible, so that it might meet the demands of those who 
wish to begin the business of vine growing in California, or at 
the East, or to improve their vineyards already commenced, 
the current season. 

Our aim has been to make our little book a complete Hand-booh 
of Grape Culture for California, and the United States, as well . 
especially adapting it to our own State. Many, very many, works 
have been written at the East, on the subject of grape growing 
generally ; but not one of them is at all adapted to California. The 
only work on grape culture in California that we are aware of, is 
that of Col. Haraszthy, written in 1862. This is an interesting 
and useful work, containing 400 large pages, partly devoted to 
the Bubject of growing the sugar cane, sugar beets, silk worms, etc 

The large size, and consequently more expensive price of that 
book, together with the new discoveries and improvements that 
have been made in grape culture, since it was issued, four or five 
years since, seem to call for just such a cheap little Hand-book 
for the people generally, as that which we now present. We 
have endeavored to embody in it everything that is necessary for 
the vintager to know on the subject, who is now engaged, or 
intends hereafter to engage, in the culture of the vine and wine 



introduction:. 1 7 

makirig, marketing grapes, or the making of raisins. We use the 
term vintager, although nearly all our contemporary authors use 
the term mntner, when they speak of the vine dresser or grape 
culturist. Our standard lexicographers define vintner to mean 
"one who deals in wine; a wine seller." Vintager, "one that 
gathers the vintage." Hence, we deem the term vintager to be 
more appropriate than that of vintner in speaking of the culti- 
vator of the vine, and as being synonymous with viniculturist ; 
and have so used it in the following pages of this work. When 
we speak of a vintner we mean one who sells wine, merely. 

With these somewhat desultory, rambling, introductory remarks, 
we submit our little Hand-Book of Orape Culture to the public for 
their examination and approval, if it shall be found worthy of it. 

T. 11. H 
San Fkancisco, Cal., January 1, 1867. 



PREFACE TO THE REVISED EDITlOxN AND APPENDIX. 



It is now (1S76) nine years since the first edition of this work 
was presented to the public. The manner in which it was received 
and appreciated was satisfactorily evinced by the rapidity with 
which the edition was sought after and disposed of; as scarcely a 
twelvemonth had elapsed ere the whole edition was exhausted. A 
new edition has long been called for; but we have deemed it best to 
delay its issue until we could have something new to add in the 
further improvement and progress of Grape Culture and "Wine and 
Baisin Making, in our highly-favored country, and be able to em- 
body the result of the experiences of those most deeply engaged in 
this productive and laudable enterprise. 

If our statistical tables and facts do not show as rapid advance- 
ment and progress, during the past decade as was anticipated, 
enough is presented to prove that our progress has been steady and 
sure and healthful, and all that reasonable, judicious people could 
desire. There has been no mania, no feverish excitement — which 
is the bane and enemy of all true improvement — but a steady, 
onward progress, that has demonstrated the incontrovertible fact 
that the culture of the vine is a settled, essential element in the 
present and future prosperity of our State. Our statistical tables 
for 1873-4 give the number of vines at about 30,000,000, and the 
wine produced at over 5,000,000 gallons. It will be safe, we think, 

18a 



1S6 PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION. 

to estimate our bearing vines in 1876, at 40,000,000, and the wine 
produced at 10,000,000 gallons: this for California alone. 

The production of raisins is becoming an important element in 
the vine-growers* products. It is estimated that 20,000 boxes of 
raisins have been produced in this State, the past season. This is 
not a large amount, compared with Malaga, in Old Spain, whose 
production of raisins, in 1875, is stated at one million and a 
quarter boxes; but if we can produce 20,000 boxes in a year, we 
can as well produce a million, when we have learned by experience 
which are the best kinds of grapes to cultivate, and where the 
most favorable soils and climate are to be found ; as we have them 
all within our own botders, such as cannot be excelled in Malaga, 
or in any other part of Europe, as we have shown in the body of 
this work . So long as the United States are, as now, importing 
nearly 1,000,000 boxes, or 25,000,000 hs. of raisins from Europe 
annually, there is no fear that California raisin-makers will not find 
a home market for all they can produce, for many years to come. 

It will be seen by our tables, that every county in the State, but 
one or two, produces more or less vines. Those best adapted may 
be inferred by the number of vines in each, other advantages and 
facilities being equal. 

As the production of grapes for table use and for raisins does not 
interfere with growing grapes for wine; and as there are many 
localities where wine grapes will do better than those for raisins or 
table use; and as far the greater moiety of grapes grown are better 
fitted for wine making than for any other purpose ; and as the pro- 
duction of wine is never likely to be overdone: it is important 
that the viniculturist should study, exj^eriment, and select the 
varieties of grapes and the localities best adapted to making the 
kinds of wine most in demand for use, and as a commodity of com- 
merce. AVith this view, we have introduced a list of the best wine 
grapes grown in France and other European countries, where the 



PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION. ISc 

choicest and most valuable wines of commerce are made. The 
mildness of our climate and the adaptability of our soil will enable 
us to produce in California every variety — the most tender and 
delicate — of the grapes grown in France or any other portion of 
Europe. "We regard, therefore, the selections we have made from 
the list of the best wine grapes of France as very important to our 
viniculturists, and well worthy of their attention, and as important 
for them to experiment with, in selecting varieties for wine-making 
purposes. 

We have also added new varieties of grapes, for table use and for 
raisin making, that have been tried and proved most successful for 
such purposes in our State. 

"We have carefully revised the body of our work, and endeavored 
to have the various clerical and typographical errors corrected. 

Our revised and enlarged edition is now presented to the public, 

with the best wishes of 

The Authoe. 
Vacaville, Calipoknia, 

July 4 1876. 



PART I. 

INDUCEMENTS TO ENGAGE IN THE CULTURE OP THE 

GEAPE. 

Grape-growing and wine-making to be the leading interests of the 
rural population of California; profits of the business; vinicul- 
tural progress and prospects in California; 40,000,000 of vines and 
2,000,000 gallons of wine the estimated products of California for 1865 ; 
number of acres and vines in France ; Wilson Flintls description of 
the vintage or grape harvests in California ; and of the early supe- 
riority of the Putah "Valley region for grape-growing ; the dry weather 
and favorable vintage season ; no rot ; the abundance of grape sugar 
and grape alcohol in California wines accounted for ; the quantity of 
California wines to the acre greatly beyond that of foreign countries ; 
the quality may be equal or superior ; estimated amount of grapes 
sold in the San Francisco market ; capital, energy, enterprise, all that 
are required to place California at the head of grape-growing and 
wine-making, countries ; Haraszthy's statement of what is necessary 
to insure success in grape culture in California; the Reese River 
Reveille's opinion of viniculture in California ; wine-making a leading 
source of wealth in California ; Stockton Independent's view on the 
subject ; no failure of the grape crop in Cahfornia in eighty years ; 
opinion of the United States' Commissioner of Agriculture; re- 
ports of the same, expressing the opinion that California is des- 
tined to be the "great wine country of the world;" the author 
advises to cultivate the vine somewhere. 

The inducements to engage in the culture of the grape 
in California may be briefly summed up thus : 

First, California has the best soil and climate in the 



20 IJS^DUCEMENTS TO CULTIVATE 

United States, if not in the world, for the growth of the 
grape. 

Second. The grape crop newer fails in this State, either 
in drought or in wet seasons ; or has not for a period of 
eighty years. 

Third. The grape requires no irrigation in California. 

Fourth. It is the most sure, profitable., pleasant.^ and 
healthful rural employment that can be engaged in. 

Ffth, Grapes of the best varieties can be produced in 
this climate and soil from two to three months earlier than 
in any of the Eastern States, and also all foreign varieties 
that none of those States can produce at all in the open 
air; consequently, when the Pacific Railroad shall be 
finished (in three to four or five years, probably), we can 
supply New York and other Eastern cities at large and 
remunerative prices, without competition. 

Sixth, Such grapes as are not required for table use 
can be made into wine that improves and will grow better 
with age ; the improved quality and enhanced value will 
far more than doubly compensate for the interest on the 
value of the stock kept over. 

Seventh. There is no danger of overstocking the vnne 
tnarJcet ; the demand will exceed the supply for a century 
to come. 

Eighth. Grape vines do not, like most kinds of fruit 
trees, deteriorate by age, but grow better and more fruit- 
ful the older they become. 

Nhith. They do not, when properly planted, suffer 
from mildew or other disease, nor from noxious insects, in 
California. 

Tenth. We can produce raisins^ as well as wine, and 
all the choice varieties of foreign grapes, of the best 
quality. 



THE VINE rN" CALIFORN^IA. 21 

Eleventh. The best lands for grape culture in the world 
can be had in California, at from $10 to $100 per acre, 
while the grape lands in Ohio, and other Eastern wine- 
growing sections, are selling for from $500 to $1,000 per 
acre ; and planted vineyards in Europe as high as $10,000 
and upward per acre. 

We shall endeavor in the following pages to demonstrate 
all these facts, and many more, in relation to vine-growing 
in this country. 

Grape-growing and wine-making are soon to be the great 
business enterprises of the rural population of Calilbrnia, 
presenting, as they already do, greater inducements to the 
enterprising husbandman than almost any other branch of 
husbandry. 

It will be seen, by the method recommended in subse- 
quent pages of this work, that an expenditure of only 
about $1,400 per year, on the average, for six or seven 
years, will give to the vintager, at the end of that period, 
a closely planted vineyard of one hundred acres, or 272,200 
vines, which would be worth at least $100,000. According 
to the estimate of the products at the end of the seventh 
year, as made by Col. Haraszthy, the vineyard would yield 
a profit of 25 per cent, per annum, on $1,000 per acre, or 
$100,000 for the entire vineyard. And as the vineyard, 
instead of depreciating, is only growing more valuable as 
it increases in age, what business can pay better, or is more 
sure of success, than this ? 



VINICT7LTUEAL PROGRESS IN CALIFORK[A. 

At the commencement of the past year the author had 
occasion to prepare a statement of facts and estimates. 



22 INDUCEMENTS TO CULTIVATE 

showing the progress of grape-growing and vinicultural 
operations generally for the preceding year, from which 
the following statements appear : The production of wine 
for the year was estimated to be 2,000,000 of gallons, and 
the number of vines at 40,000,000. 

If we take these 40,000,000 vines as the present number 
in California, when they shall all come to the age of say 
three to five years, it may be fairly calculated that they 
will produce 40,000,000 gallons of wine each year. Prob- 
ably within three years from this time, this amount will 
be produced. A great advantage in the culture of vines 
is, that the older they grow the more they will yield. And 
if the prospects of the vine shall be as favorable for the 
next five years as they are at present, we do not think it 
extravagant to estimate the number of vines in California, 
at that date, at 100,000,000. This may seem extravagant ; 
but, at the rate of increase for the past few years in Cali- 
fornia, we shall soon overtake France and the best wine- 
growing countries in Europe. In France they have 
6,250,000 acres in vineyards, w^hich, at 600 to the acre; 
would be 3,750,000,000 of vines. And what is there to 
prevent California reaching the products of France, before 
the close of the present century ? Can Ohio, or all the 
States East, equal this exhibit in California ? 

Speaking of the grape-harvests in California, the difier- 
ence of climate, &c., Wilson Flint, of Sacramento, in an 
able paper in the Report of the Department of Agricul- 
ture, published in Washington, in 1863, says : " This joyous 
festive season comes in July and continues until December, 
it being earlier or later according to the locality where 
the particular vineyard may happen to be situated. At 
Wolfskills, on Putah Creek, in Yolo County, the Mission 
grape ripens in July; while in Sonoma, not more than 



THE VINE IN CALIFORNIA. 23 

seventy miles distant, but near the cool sea atmosphere, 
the same variety does not ripen until October. One of 
the most favorable features in vine-growing in California 
is to be found in the dry weather, which continues entirely 
through the ripening season. This has the effect of ripening 
the grapes uniformly. When a bunch of grapes seems to 
be ripe, every grape on that particular bunch will be found 
equally ripe. So favorable is the autumn to the grape, 
that no signs of rot are ever discovered, and the earlier 
ripening bunches will often be found hanging on the vines, 
perfectly cured raisins. This favorableness of season gives 
to the grape an abundance of grape-sugar, which, in the 
process of fermentation, becomes grape-alcohol, and thus 
accounts for the strength of California wines, making them 
equal to the strongest European, and not requiring any 
addition of alcohol distilled from grain or cane sugar, as 
do most European wines, as well as the wines of the At- 
lantic States." 

As to quantity^ experiments have shown that the soil 
and climate of California will produce more than double 
the yield per acre of any European wine-producing country. 
France and German wine countries are said to produce 
175 gallons to the acre, and Italy, under the best circum- 
stances, about 400; while California will produce 1,000. 
And we have in California 20,000,000 acres of land, more 
or less suitable to the growth of the vine — covering a 
territory extending the whole length of the State, about 
600 miles north and south, about 100 miles in breadth, 
lying just back of the coast range of mountains that skirt 
the Pacific shores of our State from the borders of Mexico 
to Oregon. In this broad range of country, also, the cli- 
mate is not excelled by that of any country of Europe, not 
excepting balmy Spain or sunny Italy. This is the testi- 



2-^' IXDUCEMEXTS TO CTTLTIVATE 

mony of those who have resided in those countries as well 
as this, and we can confirm it from our own personal ex- 
perience ; and it is generally conceded, by the best vini- 
culturisis. who have had experience in vine-growing in the 
old world and in California, that wo have grapes and can 
produce them to any extent, that will make as good quality 
of wines as any of the varieties raised in Europe. All it 
requires is to select the best varieties, keep the wines jt>«?*e, 
and until they have age enough to give them the requisite 
body and flavor. The grape crop has never been known 
to fail in California, nor to suffer, to any extent, from the 
mildew, or the ordinary diseases to which it is subjected in 
other countries, and especially in the Eastern States of our 
country, where the vine has been damaged severely during 
the past season, particularly in Ohio, Indiana, New York, 
<fec. In addition to the superior vinous quality of our 
grapes, we can produce as fine table grapes and as luscious 
raisins as France, Spain, Germany, or Italy. We suppose 
that not less than $200,000 worth of table grapes have 
been sold during the past year in San Francisco market 
alone, at a price ranging from 5 to 75 cents per lb., or, at 
10 cents per lb., a fair average we believe, it would make 
1,000 tons, or 2,000,000 lbs. 

What, then, is wanted, with all these flattering pros- 
pects before us, to make California one of the richest and 
most prosperous vinicultural countries in the world ? The 
answer may be summed up in three words: Capital — 
Energy — EnterpTise. 

But we must consider the culture of the vine, says Col. 
Haraszthy, not only as carried on by wealthy companies 
and rich private individuals, but also by men with small 
means who wish to embark in this so well paying branch 
of industry. What a chance for such individuals ! What 



THE VINE IlSr CALIFORNIA. 25 

a diiference between them and the grain or stock farmer ! 
A man engaged on a grain farm needs at least 160 acres 
to make a living. To fence this in California it requires 
cash for material, as lumber, posts, and nails, in a favorable 
situation, outside fence and division fence, at least $1,000, 
besides his labor; one pair of horses, harness, wagon, har- 
rows, plow, hoes, spades, grain and hay for his horses, 
seed for his land, provisions for eight months, another 
thousand and five hundred dollars, or in all $2,500. In 
any other country but California, a man who possesses 
$2,500 considers himself well off. In this sum, however, 
no price for land is included, this he gets from the Govern- 
ment, if he finds any left. Now, how is it with the man 
who has no such sum as we have stated ? what is he to 
do ? and what can he do? He can plant a vineyard with 
very little capital ; what does he need ? 

First of all a pick, a crowbar, a shovel, a spade, an ax 
and wheelbarrow, and one year's provisions. He goes to 
work, rolls the rocks out of his way into a fence, inclosing 
ten acres therewith, or with chapperal and brusli, as either 
of the* two are good for fencing wine lands, and he will 
usually have plenty of them to make his fence. This done, 
he hires some neighboring farmer to plough up for him 
this land, and exchanges work for him in liarvest time ; or; 
if no such chance exists, he goes to work, digs his holes, 
plants his vines ; when finished planting, then he hoes the 
space between the vines with fork-hoes. It is hard work ; 
but industrious men, anxious to get an independent home, 
will do hard work. The planting and cultivating his 
newly-planted vines v/ill not take him more than half 
the year ; the balance of the time he can work out, and 
earn enough to supply him with provisions for next year. 
He annually increases his plantation ; in the third year he 
2 



26 INDUCEMENTS TO CtlLTIVATE 

has a small income, enough to bay his provisions, and in 
course of six years, this man will be independent, with an 
income of a couple of thousand dollars, and worth in 
property from ten to fifteen thousand dollars. This is the 
difference between the farmer and the vintager : one can 
begin with nearly nothing, the other needs, at least, $2,500; 
these are not imaginary things, but facts. 

'Viniculture in California. — Says the Reese River 
Reveille: Col. Haraszthy has written a very interesting 
letter to the farmers' paper, the Rueal Home Journal, 
relating to viniculture in California. From reading Col. 
Haraszthy's communication, we would almost be induced 
to believe that vine-growing was a better business than 
silver mining. It is very pleasant to advocate the interests 
of a country like California, where buds sprout, fruit 
blooms, and birds sing in the winter time ; but quiet 
pleasures are not always perfect pleasures ; and the case 
of California life does not satisfy as well as the strifes and 
occasional great success in the mines. 

Says the Stockton Independent : It is really a matter of 
astonishment that a field of wealth, so expansive and in- 
viting for the production of the 'grape as California em- 
braces, has remained so long, in a measure, unoccupied. 
-There is every thing to encourage and nothing to deter the 
vine-grower. View the subject as he may, correct reason- 
ing will bring him to no other conclusion than that it is an 
occupation which cannot fail to reward ordinary industry 
and intelligence in a very liberal manner. The labor is 
light, healthy, and cheerful, and the reward a matter of 
certainty. Thousands of men, industriously inclined, but 
who are physically unable to follow the hardest kinds of 
manual labor, could find profitable employment in the 
vineyard. The success of the pursuit is no longer an ex- 



THE VINE IN CALIFORNIA. 27 

periment, but one from which an annual revenue, exceed- 
ing that of the gold mines, will unquestionably be forth- 
coming, if the attention is paid to the subject which its 
great importance justly claims. No farmer who possibly 
can plant grape vines on a large scale should neglect to do 
so, and do it too at as early a day as possible, for he will 
find that, in the end, nothing he can do with his land will 
prove more remunerative, or more satisfactorily requite 
him for his labor. 

'Wine-ynaking a Leading Source of Wealth. — Already 
it is a well authenticated fact that, in all the elements 
necessary to make it the vineyard of the world, says the 
same authority, there is no country which surpasses Cali- 
fornia. In virtue of climate, quality of soil, and extent of 
territory, where is the country under the sun which annu- 
ally yields a vintage more uniformly excellent and sure, 
and likewise requiring so little care and attention ? The 
crop never fails, nor is the fruit ever diseased. The shores 
of the Mediterranean do not equal the slopes of the Pacific, 
and the chalky hillsides of Andalusia do not excel the 
gravelly hills of the mining counties of California in the 
production of grapes, from which wines of unsurpassed 
richness and sweetness can be manufactured. The Riess- 
ling wines of the Rhine, or the famous product of the 
country near Naples, will yet be eclipsed on our own 
golden hills. Burgundy, Hock, Medoc, St. Julian, Fron- 
tignac, Madeira, Muscat, Margaux, Malaga and every 
variety of wine produced in France, Germany, Spain, 
Italy, or anywhere else, can be equaled, if not surpassed, 
in our own land of sunny skies and equable climate, if the 
proper exertions are put forth and efibrts made to do so. 
Grapes of every known variety flourish and yield abund- 
antly in California, and it only needs more attention 



28 IKDXTCEMENTS TO CULTIVATE 

directed and energy applied to the development of a source 
of wealth unequaled even by what is esteemed the great 
fountain of riches — the mines. The different modes of 
propagating, training, and pruning the vine, are secondary 
in importance to the necessity of planting and enlarging 
the area of vineyards, so that wine in abundance may be 
exported from the Pacific shores, and the people be profited 
by the enriching element, which nature has so lavishly 
bequeathed to them. Already there are nearly fifty mil- 
lions of grape vines in the State, and there should be a 
thousand millions, more or less. It is estimated, we believe, 
that a grape vine ten years old, is good for a gallon of 
wine, and certainly a gallon of good wine is good for a 
dollar. Suppose, then, that one thousand million vines — 
only twenty times the number now growing — were planted 
this year, the revenue derived from the yield, in the course 
of ten years, would be immense. 

Already has the wine business become an important 
feature in the interest of the State, and is destined to 
become a leading pursuit of the people. While grain- 
raising and other agricultural pursuits are, to some extent, 
precarious, the annual crop of grapes may be expected and 
counted upon as a certainty — something which w^ll never 
fail to repay the labor and means expended, and even were 
it not so profitable as many other occupations, its certainty 
alone is a sufficient incentive to induce thousands to 
embark in the business. 

Certainty of the Grape Crop in California. — Mr. Wil- 
son Flint states that at some of the Missions records 
have been made of the character of each year's vmtage, 
through a period of upward of eighty years ; and there 
is not an instance mentioned where the grape crop was a 
total, or even partial failure, or produced wine of an infe- 



THE VINE IX CALIFORNIA. 29 

rior quality. This is more than can be said for the best 
wine countries in Europe, where, during the past sixty 
years, there have been but eleven good wine crops. 

In the monthly report of the Department of Agriculture, 
for September, 1865, is a letter to the department, from 
W. S. Powell, of Tulare County, California, in which he 
says : I do not think you have any just conception of the 
adaptability of this country for the production of wine. 
Practical experience enables me to say that 1,000 gallons 
of pure wine is but a fair yield from an acre of vines six 
years old; and what may seem to you more incredible, Mr. 
James Persian, our largest cultivator of the grape, and 
most experienced vintner, assured me, but a few days ago, 
that he candidly believed, in a favorable season, he could 
select an acre in his vineyard that would yield 2,000 gallons 
of wine. So peculiarly favorable is the climate, that the 
most tender European varieties are perfectly hardy here. 
The Chasselas de Fontainebleau, White Chasselas, and 
Black Prince are now ripe. 

And this was the 8th August. 

The Commissioner of Agriculture, in introducing this 
letter to his readers, adds : We have heretofore frequently 
referred to its (California's) favorable climate for grape 
production, but it is even better than we had supposed. 

From an article which we find in the report of the 
Statistician of the United States Agricultural Department, 
for 1864, we make the following extract from an article on 
vine culture in California : — The assurance which the act 
of Congress has given, by its increased duties on foreign 
wines, that the home market will be at the command of the 
home production, is infusing a greatly increased vigor into 
vine planting in California. The fact, too, that it is a crop 
that Avill seldom be much injured by the occasional extreme 



20 INDUCEMENTS TO CULTIVATE 

droughts of the California climate, and that its habitual 
dryness during the summer is highly advantageous, will 
also give an additional stimulant to grape cultivation. 
With these motives to the full development of the great 
natural advantages that California has as a wine-producing 
country, we may anticipate such an advance as loill make 
it the great wine country of the loorld ; and as this advance 
progresses, to draw such attention as will increase cor- 
respondingly the demand for its wines. 

And ice agree with the above writer fully. 

But to those who are unable or indisposed to come to 
California, to engage in grape culture, Ave would say : 
Cultivate the vine sorneiohere^ and in a small way, if not 
situated so as to go largely into the business. Nothing 
pays better, or is more attractive in country life. 



PART II. 

CLIMATE BEST ADAPTED TO THE GROWTH OF THE YIXE. 

Importance of a Suitable Climate ; the Rain Gauge of Yine-Growing Coun- 
tries ; Climatology of the same ; Compared with California — shown 
"by Thermometrical Tables ; Suitableness of the Climate of California 
for the Gro^\i;h of the Grape ; Various authorities on the subject ; 
the several Latitudinal Limits in the Eastern States within which 
certain named Yarieties of the Native Grapes will succeed ; none 
suited to the culture of the European grape in the open air; CaU- 
fornia adapted to all. 

The influence of climate^ in its altitudes, degrees of 
heat, and rains, on grape growing, has not, as jnstly re- 
marked by an intelligent writer, received that systematic 
consideration which is due to its importance. The West- 
ern States have at times in the summer months a moist, 
sweltry atmosphere, during which the grape rot is most 
fatal. The general elevation of these States is from 500 
to 700 feet above the sea level. Whether a greater eleva- 
tion, from 1,000 to 2,000 feet above it, would not be free 
from the rot, is a question not determined. In a dry cli- 
mate like that of California^ the altitude is immaterial, 
for the dryness is sufficient in the lowest localites to shield 
the grape from rot. If these localities have a rich and 
moist soil, then the vines are liable to be unhealthy. 

The report of the Department of Agriculture for 18G2 
has several tables of the quantities of rain which fall 



32 



CLIMATE BEST ADAPTED 



during the year in California, as compared with the East- 
ern States and some of the vine-growing regions of 
Europe. These tables, with additions of our own, follow 
this, and will be found most interesting for reference and 
comparison. 





Annual Eain Gauge. 


Inches of Eain. 




lS56-'62. 




g 


d 

a 
pi 


a 

8.8 
6.9 

5.5 
7.4 

11.3 
6.9 
7.0 

15.0 
3.1 
7.4 
7.0 

9.0 

12.4 

7.8 

4.3 

3.9 

5.3 

9.0 

7 3 

5.6 

11. T 

12.8 


O 


Pacific Coast 


San Francisco, Cal 


4.6 
3.3 

2'.5 

4.2 

11.9 

9.1 

6.5 

7.5 

7.3 

9.5 

12.7 

10.0 

14.1 

8.2 

10.2 

7.9 

6.3 

7.3 

7.1 

5.4 

6.6 

4.5 


.7 
.1 

"'.1 

.1 

14.2 

11.6 

8.0 

11.0 

11.2 

12.3 

14.6 

10.4 

14.0 

9.0 

9.5 

10.8 

8.0 

7.4 

7.5 

6.2 

3.6 

.2 


3.7 
3.2 

i'.6 

1.0 

10.0 

9.8 

7.0 

8.0 

7.0 

7.6 

8.7 

9.7 

12.3 

11.5 

10.4 

11.1 

7.4 

10.3 

9.3 

6.1 

9.5 

5.8 


17 8 




Sacramento 

'• average 5 yrs., '53-58. 
Los Angeles 


13.5 

15.4 

9.7 




State of California, 1856 


12.7 


Eastern States.. 


Cincinnati, 


47.4 




Cleveland, 

State of Ohio 


37.4 

28.5 




State of New York 


41.5 




Ann Arbor. Mich 

Pittsburg, Penn 


28.6 
36.8 




St. Lonis! Mo 

State of Missouri 


43.0 
39.1 




jSTashville, Tenn 


52.8 


Europe 


Turin, Italy 


86.5 




Valley of the Rhone 

Vevay, Switzerlaml 


34.4 
33.7 




Manheim, on the Khine 


27 




Bordeaux. W-^st France 

Dijon, East France 


34.0 
31.2 




Chalons, Northeast France 

St. Michaels, Azores 

Malaga. Spain 


23.3 
31.4 
23.3 




Madeira 


27.7 




Lisbon, Portugal 


27.1 









The climate producing the least rain or moisture during 
the summer and autumn, when the grape is ripening and 
being gathered, is the best climate for the grape. It will 
be seen by the foregoing table that the rain gauge of Cali- 
fornia is nearer like that of Malaga, the best grape region 
in the world, perhaps, than any other country. California 
has, in spring, 4.2 inches, Malaga 4.5 inches. In summer 



TO THE GROWTH OF THE VINE. 



33 



California has yV of an inch, Malaga y^ inches. In au- 
tumn California has 1 inch, Malaga 5.8 inches, showing 
that the autumn, the vintage season, in California is better 
even than that of Malaga. New York, Ohio and Mis- 
souri, the other States compared, are far behind. Cali- 
fornia has also, it will be seen, less rain by half than any 
of the principal grape-growing regions of Europe, not 
excepting France, Italy or Spain, Madeira or Portugal. 

Mr. Strong, of Boston, in his recent excellent work on 
Grape Culture says: That the rain has great fertilizing 
power is beyond question. With the vine it promotes 
excessive vegetation, and, also, by an excess of humidity 
at times, with sudden and extreme change to heat and 
dryness, causes rot and mildew. The growth of the vine 
is far greater with us (says the same writer) than at 
Los Angeles, where the grape is so stubbed that it sup- 
ports itself without a stake, and there is no necessity of 
summer checking. Yet the salubrity of the Pacific air, 
and the uniformity of climate, make it a fiivored spot both 
for European and American grapes. 



Eange Thermometrlcal. 





Sacramento. 


Malaga. 


Extremes at Malaga. 


1S56. 


Maximum. 


Minimum. 


Jail 


50°.44 
57 '.39 
61°. 25 
67^09 
72M0 
7S°.<54 
79°.57 
S0°..o5 
7S°.95 
6G°.98 
60°.46 
49°.53 


5S°.6 
57°.0 
G0°.9 
64°.5 
67°.6 
76°.6 
79°.9 
79''.9 
76°.9 
7r.6 
64'.9 
59M 


64° 
65° 
67° 
63° 
77° 
81° 
84° 
85° 
80° 
78° 
68" 
63° 


56° 


Feb 


53° 


Mar 


57' 


Apr 

May 


58° 
66° 


June 


92° 


July 

Aug 

Sept 


78° 
78° 
74° 


Oct 


63° 


Nov 

Dee 


50' 
55° 


Mean 


66°.91 ■ 


68M 







34 



CLIMATE BEST ADAPTED 



MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 





Mean, Year. 


Mean, Summer 
Months. 


Mean, Autumn 
Months. 


Mean, for Julj 
and Aug. 


California 

New York 

Ohio 


62* 

45" 
48° 
40" 

6r.4 

65".5 

57°.0 

62° 

60°.3 

5S°.3 


70- 
70' 
71* 

74° 


62° 
67° 
57°. 

61°.4 




Missouri 

Lisbon 


72° 


Madeira 

Bord?aux .. .. 
Cadiz 


72° 
78° 


Naples 

Marseilles 


76° 

76° 



\ 



Sacramento, Cal. — Highest range, June, 100°; Lowest, Dec, 25*. 

By the tliermonietrical tables on the preceding page, 
which we have made up from various sources, believed to be 
the most authentic, it appears, taking Sacramento as a crite- 
rion or average for California, that the mean average tem- 
perature of the year was 67° ; at Malaga 68° ; and that the 
three summer months at Sacramento averaged 79°, and at 
Malaga 78° ; Madeira and Lisbon each 70°. The three 
autumn months, or vintnge season, in Sacramento, indi- 
cated 68° ; at Malaga, 71° ; Lisbon, 62° ; Madeira, 67°. 

From this, as well as from the foregoing table showing 
the rain gauge of California, as compared with the finest 
gra23e growing regions of Europe, it will appear that there 
is no more favorable climate for the culture and growth of 
the grape, than California. 

Other authorities, in abundance, might be cited to estab- 
lish this fact, were it necessary. We will allude only to a 
few of these: 

Frederick Muench, of Missouri, in his excellent little 
work, " School for American Grape Culture," snys : 

California is, perhaps, of all the United States, best 
adapted to the growth of the grape. 

James S. Li^^pincott, of New Jersey, in an essay in the 



TO THE GROWTH OF THE VINE. 35 

Agricultural Report of the Department of Agriculture of 
1862, on the subject of the proper climate for the grape, 
says : 

The degree of moisture or dryness is of essential value 
in judging of the productiveness of different years and 
different places. A summer mean, or rather the mean for 
the season of growth, is generally, a certain measure of 
fitness, and the mean temperature of 65° is defined the 
lowest that will permit the vine to ripen. 

Boussingaults, in his " Rural Economy," says : The 
lowest summer temperature permitting the vine to succeed 
in Europe, is 65°, and a summer below 67° will not produce 
wine of any valuable quality or quantity. 

None of these objections apply to California. 

The Agricultural Report of 1862 says: All European 
varieties of the grape grow well in this State (California), 
as also those of the Atlantic States. This fact is significant 
of the remarkable adaptation of its climate and soil to the 
culture of the grape, and indicates that California will be- 
come the greatest wine country of the world. Mr. Hittell, 
in summing up its superiority, says : 

California vineyards produce, ordinarily, twice as much 
as the vineyards of any other grape district, if report be 
true. The grape crop never fails^ as it does often in every 
other country. 

A commission on the investigation of the afiairs, pro- 
gress, prospects, etc., of the Buena Vista Vinicultural 
Society of Sonoma, consisting of the well known citizens of 
San Francisco, W. C. Rawlston, G. H. Howard, G. W. 
Beaver, Fred. Law Olmstead, and H. W. Carpentier, in 
their report, say : 

The advantages which California possesses for the pro- 
duction of wine over any European country, is chiefly 



38 CLIMATE BEST ADAPTED 

found in its climate, which is probably the best in the 
woi'ld for the purpose. Through extensive districts of the 
State, during all the period of the year in which the grape 
is growing arid ripening, the sky is nearly cloudless and 
the air warm and dry ; hail is unknown ; nor in sixty years, 
during which time authentic and particular accounts are 
extant of the vineyards planted by the Spanish missionaries, 
have any of the diseases to which the vine is subject in 
Europe appeared here. The advantage of the climate, 
however, is greatest at the period of the vintage. An 
entirely satisfactory vintage season, that is to say, one in 
which damp weather or frosts do not occur to the manifest 
injury of the grapes, and consequently of the wine, is 
expected in European vineyards not oftener than once in 
ten years, and when it occurs is an occasion for special 
national thanksgiving. In California, whatever variations 
have been experienced in the climate at other seasons, a 
perfect vintage season has never failed. The consequence 
is that grapes ripen uniformly, and rot is unknown. This 
greatly facilitates and cheapens the labor of gathei'ing the 
grapes, and simplifi-es their subsequent treatment and the 
whole process of wine-making. 

Col. Haraszthy says : The California climate, with the 
exception of the sea-coast, especially where the prevailing 
western winds drive the fogs over the locality, is eminently 
adapted for the culture of grape vines, and it is proved 
conclusively, that no European locality can equal, within 
two hundred per cent., its productiveness. 

Mr. Lippincott, in his Essay on the Geography of Plants, 

xi the Report of the Department of Agriculture for 1863, 

thus describes the varieties of climate required by the 

cseveral varieties of grapes mentioned ; as well as the grape 



TO THE GROWTH OE THE VIXE. 37 

limits in Europe, which we think, in the main, will be found 
to be correct : 

The limits to the culture of the vine in Europe, are gene- 
rally fixed where the mean annual temperature is from 50° 
to 52° Fahrenheit (at Sacramento it is 67°). Under a 
colder climate in Europe no potable wine is produced. 
To this meteorological dcttiun must be added the fact that 
the mean heat of the cycle of vegetation of the vine must 
be at least 59° Fahrenheit, and that of the summer from 
65° to 66° (in Sacramento it is 79°). Any country which 
has not these climatic conditions cannot have other than 
indifferent vineyards, even when its mean annual tempera- 
ture 'exceeds that above indicated. It is impossible, for 
instance, to cultivate the vine upon the temperate table 
lands of South America, where they nevertheless enjoy a 
mean of from 62°.6 to 66°. 2, because these climates are 
characterized by constancy of temperature, never rising to 
the higher heats necessary to the process of sugar forming, 
and the vine grows and flourishes, but the grapes never 
become thoroughly ripe. A summer heat^ prolonged into 
autumn^ is of more value than high summer heats^ with a 
lower temperature later in the season. (In Sacramento it 
is 60° to 79°.) The mean temperature of summer is not a 
safe criterion for judging of the adaptation of a district to 
vine culture. A mild autumn must be regarded as one of 
the essential conditions, and, consequently, the mean for 
the entire period of growth where the higher heat is nearer 
the termination of that cycle, becomes a better evidence of 
fitness of any region for producing wine of the highest 
quality. 

These requisites, as set forth by Mr. L., it will have been 
seon, by the table of thermometrical range on a preceding 
page of this work, are eminently prominent in California, 



38 CLIMATE BEST ADAPTED 

and eqnal to those of the finest grape growing regions of 
the Mediterranean. 

Mr. L. lays down the following rules as a guide to those 
who may wish to know what varieties of our native grape 
are best adapted to their several regions of country : 

1. Those places which have a summer temperature of 
65°. 5, a hot mouth of 70°, and a September of 60°, will 
ripen the Delaware, Clinton, Perkins, Logan, King and 
some other very hardy varieties. The temperature of 
their growing season corresponds to a mean of 65° and 
upwards, and an aggregate of heat of about 8,000° Fah- 
renheit. This district includes many parts of New Eng- 
land and New York, Northern Pennsylvania, Nortliern 
Michigan, Wisconsin and Iowa. 

2. Those places with a summer of 70°, a hot month of 
72°, and a September of 63°, will ripen the Concord, 
Hartford Prolific, Diana, Crevelling, &g. Their season of 
growth corresponds to a mean of 67°, and an aggregate 
of 8,500° and upwards. This district covers part of the 
southeast and south coast of New England, Valleys of the 
Hudson and Mohawk, neighborhood of the minor lakes of 
Western New York, southern borders of Lake Ontario, 
Southern Michigan, Southern Wisconsin, &c. 

3. Those places which have a summer of 72°, a hot 
month of 73°, and a September of 65°, will ripen the Isa- 
bella. Their growing season corresponds to a mean of 
70°, and an aggregate of 10,000° of heat. They are not 
found in the State of New York, except in the southeast 
extremity, lower Valley of the Hudson, and near some of 
the minor lakes, but appear on the southern border of 
Lake Erie, in Northern Indiana and Northern Illinois. 

4. Those places which enjoy a summer mean of 73°, a 
hot month of 75°, and a September of 65°, will ripen the 



TO THE GROWTH OP THE VINE. 39 

Catawba. Their growing season corresponds to a mean 
of 72°, and an aggregate of 11,000°. They are not found 
north of New York city and vicinity, or the southeastern 
counties of Pennsylvania, Middle New Jersey, or Southern 
Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and Missouri. 

5. Those places which bask under a glowing summer of 
74°, a hot month of 75°, and a September of 75°, as at 
Los Angeles, in California, other circumstances being 
favorable, may ripen the most tender European wine 
grapes to perfection. 

This will apply to nearly all sections of California, the 
foregoing writer might have added. 



PART III. 

BEST SOILS FOR A VINEYARD. 

Diversity of views on the subject ; opinions of Do\vning,Barry and the 
Author ; the Author's experiences in Viniculture in the " Land of 
the Moor," and Observations in Malaga ; Professor Emmons' Analysis 
of the wild grape vine ; a simple mode of analyzing soils ; Thomas 
George Shaw's description of the soils of the grape region of Madeira ; 
Eeport of the Ohio and Lake Shore Grape Growers' Association on 
the subject of soils ; Discussion of the Fruit Growers' Association of 
"Western New York on the same subject; Hittell and Col. Haraszthy's 
opinions, as also the views of a variety of vinicultural authorities. 

This is a subject on which tliere has been no little diver- 
sity of opinion, in by-gone days. Experience, however, 
seems to have brought recent vine-growers nearer to a 
point of agreement on the subject. It used to be thought 
necessary to have a rich soil, well manured. Barry, an 
experienced fruit-grower, says : In all stages of its growth, 
it (the grape) should have a dry, rich soil — dryness first 
and most of all. Even Dovniing, Avho was so thoroughly 
versed in all pertaining to fruit culture, sums up his opinion 
by saying: The essence of all that can be said in grape 
culture respecting soil is, that it be dry and light, deep and 
rich. 

This used to be our opinion ; and, acting upon it, while 
cultivating an old vineyard in the neighborhood of the 



42 SOILS BEST i\DAPTED TO THE 

Moditerranean, on the Morocco coast, which we had pur- 
chased of a Moor, we had it thoroughly manured with a 
fine, rich mould, taken from an old slaughter ground. 
Our Moorish vinedressers shook their heads in dubious 
misgivings at our innovation, but we fancied our superior 
intelligence and book-knowledge more than a match for 
thoir long experience and old fogy notions. But the result 
proved that our modernized theories were not so far ahead 
of their nomad ex]3eriences as we had anticipated. It is 
true, our vines grew more thriftily, bore larger fruit, but 
evidently not so delicate and Gvveeii as the previous crops 
had been. 

And many of the vineyards near the Straits of Gibraltar 
were in soils made almost entirely of drift sands from 
the beach or surrounding sand hills ; and yet they had 
thriven and flourished, and produced their annual fruits for 
ages. So, in Malaga, and the Vega of Grenada, we found 
most of the vineyards on barren-looking hills and sterile 
mountain sides ; and we doubt if the grapes of Morocco, 
and of Malaga and Andalusia are excelled by any other 
portion of the globe, except California ! The climate and 
soil of California approach nearer to those countries than 
any that we have ever met with in our somewhat extensive 
travels. And when we shall have had the experience in 
testing the various kinds of grapes, and proving their 
adaptability to our soil, or rather when we shall have dis- 
covered for the best kinds and choicest qualities their 
nearest affinity of climate and soil in California, we shall 
be able to compete successfully with the best vine-growing 
regions of the Mediterranean, or of Europe, in the produc- 
tion of the choicest grapes for the table, for wine-making, 
or for raisins. 

Those who may have at hand the facilities for analyzing 



GROWTH OF THE GEAPE. 43 

their soils, may wish to have before them an analysis show- 
ing the constituent parts of which the grape vine is com- 
posed, to enable them to adapt their most appropriate soils 
to its culture. 

The following is an analysis of the wild grape vine, 
made by Professor Emmons ; 

Wood. Bark. 

Potash 20.84 1.77 

Soda.. 2.06 0.27 

Chloride , . 0.02 0.40 

Siilphnric acid 0.2.3 trace. 

Phosphate of Mme 15.40 5.04 

Phosphate of peroxide of iron 1.20 5.04 

Carbonic acid 34.83 32.22 

Lune 16.33 39.32 

Magnesia 4.40 0.80 

Silex 2 80 14.00 

Soluble silica 0.00 0.30 

Coal and organic matter 2.10 1.70 



100.21 100.86 

There is a still simpler mode of testing the adaptability 
of soil to the culture of the wine grape that is within 
the reach of all, and whicli is said to be practised by the 
agricultural schools of Germany. It is thus : 

Take a quantity, say about five pounds, of the soil you 
intend to select for your vineyard ; put such soil into a 
clean vessel ; pour boiling water over it ; stir it well with 
a clean j^iece of wood or spoon ; let it stay covered for two 
days ; then carefully pour off the clean water ; taste the 
water, and if you find no salty or moldy taste in it, the 
soil is fit for a vineyard ; because what would give a bad 
taste to the water would do the same to wine made from 
grapes grown in such soil. 



44 SOILS BEST ADAPTED TO THE 

E. W. Bull, an enlightened viniciilturist of Massachusetts, 
and originator of the Concord grape, in one of his essays 
on the culture of the vine, published in the Massachusetts 
Ploughman, says the soil best suited to the grape is a 
warm and dry soil, such a soil as is best suited to the 
growth of Indian corn. 

Grape Soil in Madeira. — Thomas George Shaw, author 
of Wine, the Vine, and the Cellar, published in London 
in 1864, states that the earth of the choice vineyards of 
Madeira is composed of soft rock (pedra molla)., which 
never becomes a fine mould, but is generally in a crumbly 
state, like small coal. In this the vines are planted, and 
there they flourish best, as, from the loose nature of the 
earth, the moisture gets more readily to the roots of the 
vines, and the sun's rays penetrate with more immediate 
efiect. 

We have, no doubt, soils among the foot-hills of Cali- 
fornia similar to those of Madeira, if not superior, and 
that will yet be found to produce a wine equal to the so 
long celebrated wines of Madeira. 

Charles Reemelin, of Ohio, in his Vinedressers' Manual, 
speaking of the proper soil for a vineyard, says : There 
should always be some sand, some clay, some limestone, 
and some gravel in it. 

The Report of the Ohio and Lake Shore Grape Growers' 
Association for 1865-6 speaks thus on the subject of Soil 
for a Vineyard : Contrary to the idea entertained at the 
commencement of grape culture in this country, it is now 
the opinion of a majority of vignerons that a dry soil pro- 
duces the best wine, especially with the Catawba grape. 
Stifl:' clay is preferred. [This may do for Ohio ; but we 
have far better soils • than clayey ones in California.] 
The soil should be dry ; hence underdraining is often a 



GROWTH OF THE GRAPE. 45 

necessity. Sandy soils may produce as fair clusters, but 
the quality of ihe wine is inferior. Gravelly soil is proba- 
bly next best. Clay crests that crop out of gravelly or 
sandy districts are excellent. 3Iaiiuring is also discarded. 
Most experienced growers now consider manure an injury 
when wine is the object of production. The vine will 
bear abundantly a long time, and remain healthy on a soil 
too poor for common farming. Manuring may spoil a vine- 
yard. We remember a notable instance of the truth of 
this in the vineyard which produces the far-famed Johannis- 
herger^ situated on the Khine. A proprietor once had it 
heavily dunged, and the quality was perceptibly injured 
for many years following, though the yield was increased. 
The wine makers state that the must of grapes grown on 
the upland clay soils is richer than that from the flatter 
lands of the Lake Islands, or from sandy soils. 

At a meeting of the Fruit Growers' Association of 
Western New York, held at Rochester, in June, 1866, the 
subject of a "Proper Soil for Grapes " coming up, the fol- 
lowing discussion was had : 

Is a rich soil necessary for the production of good 
grapes f 

Mr. Brown Smith said that a rich soil was not necessary 
for the production of grapes ; thought some of his vines 
had made such an enormous growth that the fruit was 
poorly ripened. 

C. Downing said rich soil would make a large grape, 
ripens later, but not so good to eat. 

H. H. Farley said a moderately rich soil would ripen 
better than a richer one. 

E. Moody found clay soil produced earlier and better 
grapes than lighter soil. 

C. L. Iloag said, on the rich parts of his vineyard they 



46 SOILS BEST ADAPTED TO THE 

were a week later than on the poorer parts ; except the 
Delaware. 

W. Griffith said rich soil was a damage to vines ; rich 
Boils and moisture were the worst things for vines. Had 
planted, twenty years ago, a vineyard on corn land, which 
would yield 30 or 40 bushels to the acre, and had raised 
crops every year from the third year, except one year : last 
year had three tons of Catawbas to the acre ; would much 
prefer dry, hard, forbidding soil, "white bean soil," to 
richer land. 

R. Buchanan, in a work on Grape Culture, published a 
few years since, in Cincinnati, says : The soil best suited 
for a vineyard is a dry calcareous loam, with porous sub- 
soil, not retentive of moisture; if mixed with some gravel 
or small stones so much the better. Some prefer a sandy 
soil, with a gravelly substratum, as in this the grapes are 
less subject to rot ; the juice, however, is not so rich, lack- 
ing in saccharine matter, and in dry seasons the vines will 
suffer from drouth, shedding their leaves prematurely, and 
preventing the grapes from ripening well. Any soil under- 
laid by a stiff wet clay is to be avoided, as also wet or 
spongy lands. 

Muench says the principal component part of the soil 
should be a loose yellow or brown loam, the white and 
bhie are to be avoided, and if this be mixed with disinte- 
grated granite or lava, limestone, sand, some magnesia, 
together with a moderate supply of humus (dark ground 
produced by putrefaction), and if, besides, the subsoil is 
susceptible of drainage, that is to say, not made impene- 
trable by stiff clay or solid stone quarries, nor naturally 
wet, nothing remains to be desired. The presence of 
pebbles, round, pointed, or of slate form, or of larger 
stones, make the cultivation more difficult, but improve the 



GKOWTH OF THE GEAPE. 47 

growth of the grape. Broken rocks in the underground, 
into the clefts of which the roots can penetrate, are pref- 
erable to stiff clay. 



On California Soils, 

We have thus far quoted authorities of a general char- 
acter, chiefly outside of California, as, although in many 
respects, California has peculiarities not elsewhere to be 
found, yet there are certain characteristics, certain general 
principles that apply equally to all countries, and whose 
examples and experiences may be of great value to vine- 
growers in California. We will now give some statements 
and facts more particularly applicable to California, from 
some of the most intelligent and reliable authorities of the 
State. 

The commission that examined the operations of the 
Buena Vista Vinicultural Society, to which we have before 
alluded in these pages, state that California possesses a 
lai'ge extent of volcanic soils in which alone the best wine 
grapes of Europe can be cultivated with entire confidence. 
In the Eastern States all the vines of the Buena Vista 
Vineyard would be subject to mildew. Here it has never 
made its appearance. 

The Stockton Independent speaks thus : A late corres- 
pondent of the San Jose Mercury, presented an mdubitable 
truth when he said that one of the great drawbacks to the 
wine interest in Santa Clara county (and the same rea- 
soning is forcibly aj^plicable to San Joaquin and other 
counties), is that nearly all the wines made are made from 
grapes grown upon moist and adobe lands. Such soil can 
never produce good wine. Grapes grown upon such soil 



48 SOILS BEST ADAPTED TO THE 

are lacking in saccharine matter, which forms the fournia* 
lion of good wine. I claim that there is as good soil in 
this county for the production of good wine as there is in 
this State or the United States. Take, for instance, that 
belt of timbered land stretching around the west and south 
sides of the valley, from Mountain View to Gilroy ; there 
we find a soil of red clay mixed with gravel and limestone, 
the very best of soil for producing the finest wines, as all 
who understand the business will attest. 

The above shows that vine-growers are directing their 
attention to high lands for the purpose of planting vine- 
yards, and leave the heavy soil of the valleys, as it should 
be left, to the production of cereals and other crops. The 
heavy adobe soil of San Joaquin Valley, particularly on the 
fields a few miles in extent immediately surrounding Stock- 
ton, will undoubtedly produce excellent grapes for table 
use ; but to the higher lands, bordering on the foot hills, 
to the foot hills themselves, and also to the many suitable 
locations to be found in the mining counties, must we look 
for the grapes from which to manufacture a quality of 
wine that will suj^plant the imported article. Except in 
a few instances, the owners of vineyards in the mining 
counties have given but little attention to wine making ; 
but as soon as they find that the quality which it is in their 
power to produce will take precedence over valley prod- 
ucts, they will be likely to devote more of their time and 
attention to the busmess. 

The Sacramento Bee thus : We are informed respecting 
the depredations of the army worms, that they have con- 
fined their ravages entirely to the low black lands, known 
as " adobe," lying all through the great basin of the Sacra- 
mento and San Joaquin rivers, but never have been seen 
or heard of in the foot hills on that reddish gravelly soil so 



GROWTH OF THE GRAPE. 49 

peculiar to the rolling lands at the base of the Sierras. 
Consequently, the owners of vineyards in the latter locali- 
ties will have full crojDS, while those whose vines are m the 
black lands of the valleys will be on short rations this 
season. For ten years we have been urging the abandon- 
ment of the black lands to the cultivation of cereals and 
vegetables, and the transfer of viniculture to the red gravel 
lands of the foot hills. The wine made from grapes grown 
on these lands is more rich, fruity and better for all pur- 
poses than that grown in the valleys, as it will satisfy the 
most skeptical who will try those wines made in the 
vicinity of Coloma, Sonora, Mokelumme Hill and Oroville. 
If you would grow grapes for table use, irrigation of the 
vines is necessary up to maturity ; if you would make 
wine, your vines should recei\ e no moisture but the natu- 
ral rains and dews. Red land for vineyards can be found 
in any county in the State that borders either upon the 
Sierra ISTevadas or the coast range of mountains. Sonoma 
and Napa can produce as good wine as El Dorado or Butte 
if the grape growers of those counties will abandon the 
valley land and take to the rocky foot hills. A French- 
man who had worked all his life in the celebrated vine- 
yards about Rheims, told us, in reply to a question as to 
what was the best land for grapes, " land that will grow 
nothing else," adding that the best vintages he had ever 
seen were from grapes that were grown on land so rocky 
that it was necessary to transport soil thither in which to 
plant the vines. 

Tlie Foot Hills. — The Folsom Telegraph says : The soil 
of the foot hills is proving itself far superior to that of the 
southern portions of the State, for the successful and 
profitable cultivation of the vine. 

The vine, says Mr. Hittell, likes a sandy or graA^elly 
3 



50 SOILS BEST ADAPTED TO THE 

(not very moist) soil, and never thrives in wet, loamy, or 
stiff clay soil. Rich land does not seem to be adapted to 
the vine in California. He adds : The soil of the vine- 
yards at Los Angeles and Analieim is a deep, light, warm 
sand. To the inexperienced eye it looks as though it were 
too poor to produce any valuable vegetable growth. In 
Sonoma and Napa valleys, the vineyards are planted in a 
red, gravelly clay, near the foot of the mountains, or in a 
light sandy loam, in the centre of the valley. Of late, 
the vine-growers of these valleys have done without irri- 
gation. In Santa Clara Valley most of the vines have 
been placed in a rich, black loam, but their vineyards are 
unhealthy. The Sacramento vines are planted in sandy 
loam ; those of the Sierra Navada in sandy loam or 
gravelly clay. 

Dr. Strenzel, in his Prize Essay, published in the Trans- 
actions of the California State Agricultural Society for 
1863, thus describes the soil best suited to the grape; 

The component parts of the soil must be favorable to 
the retention of sufficient moisture for the nourishment of 
the vine, and yet permit of perfect drainage. It is not 
enough that the surface attests its fertility by a luxurious 
growth of indigenous plants. The suh-soll should be suf- 
ficiently porous to prevent water stagnating during the 
rainy season. Hence, heavy clay soils are inadmissible. 
The product of such soils is a superluxuriant growth of 
wood, but the fruit is scanty, irregular in size, late in 
maturing, and of insipid flavor, lacking all the elements 
necessary for a good wine. A mellow loam, easily worked, 
and of sufficient tenacity to retain moisture for the thrifty 
growth of the vine, without irrigation, will give all the 
essential elements requisite for a vineyard. A red, loamy 
soil, if of sufficient depth, and produced from the disinte- 



GRO^VTH OF THE GRAPE. 51 

gration of adjoining rock formations, is next best ; but if 
the rock near the surface is of a hard sand stone, the 
growth of vines and fruit will be scanty. A third class, 
and very extensive one iu some parts of our large valleys, 
consists of gravelly, loamy soils, which will rate according 
to their fertility and permeability. 

In many respects (adds Dr. S.), California is highly 
favored by nature for a wine country. A net-work of 
mountains affords the necessary shelter from the prevaihng 
winds, and the high grounds are free from the nightly 
condensed vapors of the low valleys, while the dry season 
extends indefinitely the length of time necessary for the 
perfect development and ripening of the grape. Few 
countries can boast of the favorable climatic conditions 
which permit the already palatable fruit to remain upon 
the vine three months longer, subject to the laboratory of 
solar rays, converting it into delicious raisins or ambrosial 
juice. 

We will bring: our evidences and statements of the soils 
best adapted to the growth of the grape to a close, with 
the remarks of Col. Haraszthy on the subject, and some 
comments of our own : 

"When the jDlanter resolves to plant a vineyard, says Col. 
H., he should determine whether he is planting to produce 
grapes for wine or for the market. If for the former, he 
must look for a soil which is made by volcanic eruptions, 
containing red clay and soft rocks, which will decay by ex- 
posure to the air. The more magnesia, lime or chalk the 
soil contains, so much the better. This kind of soil never 
cracks, and keeps the moisture during the summer admir- 
ably. Such soil will produce a wine that will keep good 
for fifty or one hundred years, and improve annually ; is 
not liable to get sour, or when exposed to the air, after one 



52 SOILS BEST ADAPTED TO THE 

year old, to get turbid and change color in the bottle or 
glass. 

Col. H. also recommends a shell-mound soil, gravelly 
clay, slightly mixed with sand ; also a light, sandy, gravelly 
soil. All these he considers valuable, in the order in which 
we have noted them, as ici7ie soils. For marketable table 
grapes^ he recommends a rich, black, gravelly or sandy 
loam, exceedingly mellow ; and recommends manuring 
with well-rotted sheep manure. 

We have dwelt somewhat at length on this part of our 
subject, and quoted the opinions and experiences of a 
variety of vine-growers, both from abroad and at home, as 
we deem the subject of selecting a suitable soil for the 
culture of the grape, one of vital importance to the success 
of the viniculturist ; the absence of a proper attention to 
which has led to many of the failures and discouragements 
which have attended the efforts of too many of those who 
have partially attempted the culture of the grape in Cali- 
fornia. Because California has so many thousands and 
tens of thousands of acres of choice vine-growing lands, it 
does not follow that all of the lands in our State are equally 
suited to that purpose ; nor that one kind of grape can be 
made to succeed on a soil exclusively adapted to a grape of 
an entirely different character, and requiring a diameti"i- 
cally opposite quality of soil. The pioneers in extensive 
vine-growing in California may be excused for the errors 
and failures incident to the undertaking of introducing, 
acclimating, and naturalizing the numerous varieties of 
foreign grapes that have been introduced into our State 
during the past ten or fifteen years. But noio the genial 
adaptability of our climate, and the capability and affinities 
of our soil to the successful growth and production of the 
choicest and most delicate kinds and varieties of the foreign 



GEOWTH OF THE GRAPE. 53 

grape ought to be so well understood, at this day, as to 
render any mistake or failure inexcusable. The climate 
and soil, nature has furnished ; these you ought now to be 
able to choose understandingly. 



PART IV. 

LOCATION, SITE AISTI) EXPOSURE FOR A YIXEYART). 

The best Position, Site and Exposure; Diversity of views; some prefer 
the valley, some the hUls, others hill-sides ; some a southern, some an 
eastern, some a western, some a northern exposure ; all partly right 
and partly wrong ; all exposures good, under certain circumstances 
and for certain purposes. The Author's choice at Mount Glenwood ; 
nature the safest teacher, cloudless skies of California; the grape 
everywhere free from mUdew ; five geographical and isothermal 
divisions in California, each peculiarly adapted to a peculiar character 
of grape. Best sites and exposures for vineyards in the Eastern 
States ; various authorities ; vineyards on the hiU-sides of Oporto and 
Malaga. 

The best locations, position, etc., for a vineyard, have 
beea incidentally touched upon, in discussing the subject 
of soils. It has been shown that the soil usually found on 
hill-sides, or gently rolling hills, is better adapted to the 
growth of the wine grape, than that of the low lands. But 
we deem the subject of a proper site or position and expo- 
sure, of scarcely less importance than that of soil ; and 
consider it well deserving of an especial chapter, setting 
forth the various experiences and opinions of those best 
qualified to judge, as well as our own views on the subject. 

Although many of the early vine growers of this country 
commenced their vineyards upon the bofctom-lands of our 
valleys, even in some instances in adobe or rich alluvial 
soils, yet subsequent observation and experience have 



56 BEST LOCATION, SITE AND 

established the fact that hill-sides and rolling hills, such as 
are usually found along the region of the foot-hills, or even 
upon somewhat rugged mountain sides, ns well as upon 
scattering or rolling hills sometimes found in the midst of 
onr valleys, are best adapted to the production of grapes 
possessing the rich, saccharine qualities necessary to make 
good, palatable and marketable wines. 

It is very properly said, by Dr. Strentzel, in his Prize 
Essay, to which we have before alluded, that the location 
and aspect of a vineyard, and the component parts of the 
soil, exercise a paramount influence on the quality of the 
grape ; hence we find the product varying in countries, 
districts, adjoining vineyards, and even on a small plat of 
land; hence, also, the proper selection of the location of a 
vineyard, is of the utmost importance. The peculiarities 
of our climate, adds our essayist, admit of greater latitude 
in selection, and crown with moderate success the use of 
soils which, in countries otherwise blessed with copious 
and frequently recurring showers, would be inadmissible. 
For this reason, an aspect otherwise considered unfavor- 
able does not entirely shut off success, but if we wish to 
attain a high degree of excellence, this does not absolve us 
from the necessity, especially if the product of the vine- 
yard be destined for wine, to select a location sloping 
gently to the south east, Avith an open aspect to the south 
and west. Such a location will secure a full exposure to, 
and yet mitigate the scorching rays of the noonday sun. 
Besides, the aspect due south is less favorable here, as the 
soil on the southern slopes is in most cases less fertile. 

On the subject of exposure there is not a little diversity 
of opinion among authorities in California. The writer 
just quoted prefers the south east ; others, the west, or 
north, as less liable to be injured in case of frosts. Mr. 



EXPOSURE FOE A VIXEYAED. '6^ 

Wm. Daniels, another California Prize Essayist, says the 
aspect should be southicest ; that is, the ground should 
slope in that direction ; but adds, any slope, either south- 
west, west or northwest, is better than a slope in the oppo- 
site direction. !N'ever choose an eastern aspect if you can 
possibly avoid it. A great portion of California is subject 
to late frosts, long after the vine has just put forth its 
young, tender shoots. The coldest part of the night is 
just before sun rise, and the frosts in California, will on 
an average, be twice as severe on an eastern slope as they 
are on a western. The western slope will receive the 
warm sunshine all the after part of the day, and long before 
it receives the parting rays of the setting sun, the eastern 
slope will be left in the shade ; and if the ground is well cul- 
tivated it will imbibe warmth from the sun as Ion 2^ as it 
shines. This will often preserve it from frost when the 
eastern slope is quite wliite. The first bright rays of the 
morning sun, striking the tender frosted foliage on the 
eastern slope, will scorch it like an oven ; whereas, on the 
western slope, supposing a light frost has dropped down, 
the atmosphere above the vines will become warm before 
the sun strikes the foliage, creating a warm, incipient fog, 
often sufficient to draw out a light frost before the bright 
rays of the sun strike directly on the foliage, so that the 
frost has left no sign. 

Now these two approved essayists, both appearing to be 
men of sense and experience, take somewhat opposite 
positions on this subject. And, in our opinion, both are 
ri(/Jit and both icroncj^ to a certain extent ; that is, the one 
is right in saying that a southeast exposure (under some 
circumstances) is best ; and the other, in giving the pref- 
erence to a southwest aspect ; and both wrong, in implying 
that their own particular choice of aspect or exposure is 
3* 



58 BEST LOCATION-, SITE ANT> 

invariably the best, and exclusively to be preferred. As 
there are, doubtless, in California, as well as in other States, 
certain altitudes and cold, damp exposures where an eastern 
or southeastern aspect might be preferable, and necessary 
to secure the genial warmth of the sun, so essential to the 
early and perfect maturity of the grape, and to avoid the 
o'kUuni, mildew, etc. ; while in portions of the country 
where there is no rain and little or no moisture, during 
long, hot summers, and where the earth parches and bakes 
with the scorching rays of the ever burning sun, not only 
a southwest, but even a north, northeast or northwest 
exposure may be admissible, if not preferable. 

On this subject the intelligent planter and vintager must 
use his own judgment and good sense. 

T/ie Author^s Choice at Mount Glenwood, Tolo county. 

We have selected for our own vineyard at Mount Glen- 
wood, grounds that slope east and west, north and south, 
southeast, southwest, northeast, and northwest, as well as 
the summit of moderately elevated hills, or table lands ; 
and this in a location on the western borders of the Sacra- 
mento valley, on the first bench or plateau of hills rising 
from the plains toward the foot hills that lie at the base of 
the eastern slope of the last coast range of mountains, in 
the neighborhood of Putah Caiion, and near to Putah 
Creek; and we hope, ere long, to be able to demonstrate 
from actual experience, what kind of an exposure is best 
in locations of that description. 

One thing we have noticed, in running the eye along the 
serrated tops and sides of that last of the inland coast range 
of mountains, and that is, that the northerly sides of the hills 
and mountains during the dry weather of summer exhibit 
a much greener appearance in vegetation, a far more thrifty 
display of verdure, than those facing the south or east. 



EXPOSTJIIE FOR A YTN^ETARD. 59 

Hence, we infer that a northerly exposure, in that particular 
locality, "will be best. Nature is the safest teacher ; her 
laws are unerring ; follow them and science and practical 
experience will do the rest. 

We will, however, give a few more authorities on the 
subject, as we wish all shades of opinion to be fairly repre- 
sented, so that the reader can judge for himself. 

Mr. Charles Detten,in his Prize Essay, says : A southerly 
aspect is the most suitable for a vineyard. 

Col. Haraszthy, the veteran vine-groAver of Sonoma, is 
of opinion that in California locality is not so material as 
in European countries, especially those where, during the 
summer season a good deal of rain falls. If the vineyard 
is not exposed during the whole day to the sun, the rain 
will rot and damage the grapes. California, he adds, 
having an even temperature, is warm, and, without rains 
in summer, almost any locality will do ; but, if a western 
gentle slope can be obtained, by all means it should be 
taken. 

Wilson Flint, also an experienced, practical vinicultu- 
rist of California, in an able article written for the Depart- 
ment of Agriculture, at Washington, and published in its 
volume of Reports for 1863, has some very clear, practical 
views on this subject, from which we condense some impor- 
tant facts. 

Most writers on vine culture (says Mr. Flint) recom- 
mend planting vineyards on a southern and eastern aspect. 
Such situations are very favorable in seasons exempt from 
heated terms ; but when these occur it will be found that 
a vineyard having a northwestern slope will suffer less 
from sun scald, and ripen its superior fruit at an earlier 
day. Northwestern slopes always have a more equal iso- 
thermal condition than those facing the midday sun. The 



60 BEST LOCATION, SITE AND 

true source of injury to the leaf of the vine from extreme 
heat arises mainly from the refractioji upon its under sur- 
face of the sun's rays from the earth ; hence, where the 
seasons are sufficiently long it would seem to be desirable 
to plant the vine on tlie northwestern slopes. Vineyards 
on such situations will be less liable to injury by late 
spring frosts. 

The season throughout California, from May until No- 
vember, is that of cloudless skies, under which the grape 
will grow everywhere exempt from mildew and rot, ex- 
cept on low, moist bottom-lands or near the shore of the 
ocean, on that part of the coast north of Santa Barbara. 
The prevailing winds in the summer from the colder lati- 
tudes of Behring's Strait become charged with a great 
deal of humidity as they seek admission upon the land 
through the gaps in the coast range of mountains in the 
vicinity of San Francisco. Rising from the sea in im- 
mense thick mists, sometimes with the copiousness of 
showers of rain, these banks of fog are cold and chilly, 
but become dissipated upon the dry atmosphere before 
spreading far into the interior, though within a range of 
twenty miles from San Francisco they have a very dele- 
terious eifect on the leaf of the vine and the young grape. 
Within the svv^eep of these cold winds and fogs few Euro- 
pean vines escape the mildew, and even the American 
grape is cultivated with unsatisfactory results. Beyond a 
radius of twenty miles from San Francisco an entirely dif- 
ferent climate is found, where the vine meets a cono-enial 
atmosphere. Excluding these localities near the coasi, 
where cold sea-breezes and fogs prevail, it may be safely 
stated that all other portions of the State, lying under an 
altitude of three thousand feet above the seaboard, are 
suited to vine culture. In the entire State there are some 



EXPOSUKE FOR A VIXEYAED. 61 

one hundred and fifty-five millions acres of land, one-third 
of which, in his opinion, is well adapted to the production 
of wine. 



GEOGRAPHICAL AXD ISOTHERMAL DIVISIONS OF THE GRAPE- 
GROWING REGIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 

Mr. Flint makes four general distinct districts in Cali- 
fornia with isothermal and meteoroloo;:ical conditions as 
widely differing in their characteristics as there are to be 
found varieties of soil. He divides them thus : 

First. All that portion south of Monterey county, with 
the exception of the volcanic range of hills near San 
Gabriel. This district has long been celebrated for the 
abundance of its crops of large and luscious dessert 
grapes, and, until a recent period, it furnished nearly the 
entire supply of wine for home consumption as well as ex- 
port. The vineyards in this district are mostly planted 
on a sandy loam, and receive copious artificial irrigation 
in the bearing season. To this cause, with the soft, moist 
atmosphere v/liich prevails in the evenings and mornings, 
may be ascribed the large size of its grapes, and the 
abundance of grape sugar which they contain, when 
allowed to remain on the vines until fully ripe. For the 
above reasons this district of country is peculiarly adapted 
to the production of heavy, strong wines and the distil- 
lation of brandy. 

Second. All the counties lying west of the San Joaquin 
V^alley and south of Yolo. This district being somewhat 
within the influence of the cool ocean breezes, its grapes 
will contain less sugar ; lience, it is in this section of the 
State that we must look for light wines, and those particu- 



62 BEST LOCATION, SITE AND 

larly adapted to the manufacture of champagne ; as the 
wines are naturally sparkling and somewhat effervescent 
without any sophistication. The light hock and cham- 
pagne of the Sonoma Yalley have already obtained a high 
reputation on tluB Pacific coast, and will compare favorably 
with the best European wines of a similar character. 

Third. The great plains and rolling slopes in the Tulare, 
San Joaquin and Sacramento valleys. This locality in- 
cludes much land similar to that in the first named, but 
with a warmer, dryer climate, as in this district there are 
seldom any dews, which so greatly assist the formation of 
the unusually large grapes of the country about Los 
Angeles. This great interior valley locality will produce 
a rich sherry and sauterne, as well as a wine similar to the 
Catalan a, or port, of the Upper Douro of Portugal. 

Fourth. The foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, 
as well as the eastern slopes of the coast range west of 
the Sacramento valley, and the districts already named, 
lying north and east of San Gabriel, in Los Angeles 
county. This mountain district will doubtless produce 
the most valuable wines of any of the localities before 
named, both on account of climate, which is peculiarly 
different by reason of its elevation above the sea level and 
un evenness of surface, as well as on account of the favor- 
able ingredients of the soil. 

Mr. F. goes on to add : In all the valley or plain dis- 
tricts the soil is more or less composed of argillaceous 
marine debris, mixed with sand, gravel and alkali, washed 
down into what were then inland seas and lakes, from 
eruptive volcanoes. Below an altitude of two hundred 
feet above the sea-level, there are the most abundant evi- 
dences to show that all the great valleys in the State were 
covered by water at no very remote period ; but above 



EXPOSURE FOR A VINEYARD. 63 

this mark the soil contains scarcely any evidence by which 
an opinion can be maintained that it was ever under the 
dominion of the sea ; and the vines grown on these lands 
will be of a more delicate flavor, and possess a more abun- 
dant bouquet. In these mountainous districts are extensive 
tracts of chalky soil, where scarcely a shrub will grow. 
The vine, however, is made to flourish here with a little 
artificial irrigation; and if we may judge the future by 
the present, the time is at hand when the celebrated wines 
of the Johannisberg may find a worthy rival in the Sierra 
Nevada. The seasons being long and dry, with the same 
liability to heated terms as in the Atlantic States, I con- 
sider it (a locality having a northwestern slope) preferable 
in California to a site facing the south and east. 

We have thus far, under this head, confined our citation 
of authorities to California, But as our liule volume is 
expected to find its way to the Eastern States, and is in- 
tended to be truly a Hand-Book or Manual for all who may 
engage in the culture of the vine, we will, as we have done 
under previous headings of this work, give the opinions of 
Eastern authors or writers on the subject of the best posi- 
tion, exposure, etc., for a vineyard, as demonstrated by the 
observation and experience of those who have been most 
successful viniculturists in those states east of the Rocky 
Mountains. 

Mr. Muench, of Missouri, says : On the northern half of 
this continent the vine can be raised with profit from 25° to 
45° of latitude, so that only a small part of the United 
States is excluded. The further south the vine-dresser 
lives, the higher should be the land in which he plants his 
vines. In the north the lower lands, sheltered by heights, 
and, consequently, warmer, should be selected, and the sun- 
niest exposures. The rough winds of unprotected situations 



64 BEST LOCATION, SITE AND 

slionld be avoided, while a free, moderate circulation of 
air is nn indispensable requisite. In dump valleys, on flat, 
marshy low-lands, on exposed mountain tops, or on the 
shady sides of heights, the vine will not thrive. In the 
vicinity of the ocean, or of large lakes or rivers, the air 
seems to possess a peculiarly mild quality, which the vine 
particularly needs, and, accordingly, we find it in greatest 
perfection on dry, even rocky and somewhat precipitous, 
ground, not fir from large bodies of water. The distance 
of a few miles makes a difference in this respect. The vi- 
cinity of streams, flowing from mountains over undulating 
plains is especially adapted to v4ne culture. ... In all 
localities, where we are to economize summer iieat, the best 
position is on a tolerably steep southern slope, somewhat 
sandy, with dark, rather stony and gravelly, than loamy 
soil. . . ., . Next to the southern position, the south- 
eastern appears to be the best, after which lank the eastern 
and the directly vfestern. Further it is not safe to ven- 
ture, unless with species of very early maturity. Thus 
much for our Missouri authority. 

An Eastern paper says : Select your ground on some 
southern or southwestern slope, or any other dry land 
that you may have. This certainly allows a very generous 
latitude. 

Mr. Charles Remelin, an Ohio wi'iter and author, says : 
The altitude of a vineyard should neither be too high nor too 
low as compared with the surrounding country. The expo- 
sure should be selected with due reference to giving full 
chance to the sun's rays during the entire day ; and the soil 
should neither be too ricli nor too poor, aftbrding to the roots 
of the vine and to atmospheric influences an easy chance to 
penetrate. 

Mr. Lippincott's Essay, in the Report of the Department 



EXPOSURE FOR A VINEYARD. 65 

of Agriculture for 1862, says: On the continent of 
Europe, vineyards that produce the best wine, are invaria- 
bly found on dry soils, more or less abounding in lime, and 
the most celebrated are on the dry, sunny sides of granite 
or calcareous hills, with the surface terraced, each terrace 
sustained by a stone wall against which the vines at its 
base are trained. 

Mr. Buchanan, a Cincinnati author, says : A hill-side with 
a southern aspect is preferred ; although an eastern or 
western exposure is nearly as good. Some have recom- 
mended the north, on account of safety from late spring 
frosts ; but it will scarcely ^ord sun enough to ripen the 
grapes, in cold, wet seasons (if the declivity is steep), and 
may, perhaps, be more subject to rot ; any undulating sur- 
face, if dry, is preferable to a level one. 

This will do, for our Eastern authorities for the present. 

Describing the vineyards in and about Oporto in Portu- 
gal, where the celebrated Port wines are made, Thomas 
George Shaw, the English author to whom we have before 
referred, says: When the demand for this sort of wine 
became greater than its produce, especially in a scanty vin- 
tage, it put some English supercargoes, who resided there 
and at Yiana, nerir Oporto, at that time, on teaching the 
Portuguese to cultivate the vineyards on the heights or 
mountains\iOY(\Q\\T\^ on the River Douro, from whence the 
district takes the name Lbnci de Doiiro. 

Speaking of the vineyards at Malaga, the same author 
says: The very circumstance of the grapes grown here 
being so excellent, is a proof that if the making of wine 
were found as profitable as the sale of grapes, very fine 
wine would be produced. I do not mean because the 
grapes are so large and fine ; for it is a fact, that large, fine 
eating grapes invariably produce inferior wine ; but it is 



66 BEST LOCATION, SITE, ETC. 

because the soil, the heat, and the aspect of the various hills 
are so admirably adapted for wine, that the result might 
be looked upon as certain. 

Frederick Bossert, of New Jersey, in an essay on wine, 
in the Report of the Department of Agriculture, for 1863, 
after stating that in Germany and France the southern and 
southeastern hill-sides are considered as best adapted for 
vineyards, goes on to remark : The more gradual increase 
of temperature in spring, and the proportionately short 
summer season, with generally warm, and but few hot 
days, render it necessary that the vineyards should receive 
sufficient waraith through th^ direct rays of the sun, in 
order to mature the grapes. But it is quite different in 
this country. The warm temperature sometimes setting in 
for some consecutive days, as early as January and Febru- 
ary, frequently causes the grape vines on the southern 
sides of the hills, where the effect of the sun is most 
powerful, to vegetate at this early season only to be 
checked in their growth by later frosts. Thus they freeze 
and become sickly, and the crop of the year is either 
destroyed or reduced. On the north or northwest side of 
the hills, where the ground is less warmed by the rays of 
the sun, and where the soil remains longer cold in conse- 
quence of the action of cold wmds, snows, etc., a few 
warm days in winter will not be able to force the plants, 
which, therefore, remain inactive until the approach of the 
regular warm season, when there is no longer any danger 
of their growth being injured by frosts. There is no 
danger from the retarded development either to the fruit 
or to the plant, as the hot summer and the long-continuing 
fall will always bring the fruit to maturity ; but there is 
danger from every distm-bance after the growth has been 
started. 



PAKT V. 

PEEPAEING THE GEOUKD. 

TrencMng expensive and unnecessary; the Author's views; plough' 
ing deep and sub-soiling and harrowing sufficient ; no manuring 
necessary ; grounds can be as well, prepared with the plough, sub- 
soiler, etc., for $10 or $12 per acre, as for $200 to $300 by the old 
mode of trenching; modes recommended by Col. Haraszthy, Mr. 
Bull, Mr. Griffiths, Mr. Detten and others, for preparing the ground ; 
enclosing the vineyard with a hedge ; the Osage Orange recom- 
mended; mode of planting such a hedge. 

Havtistg in the foregoing pages described the climate, 
soil, position, exposure, etc., best adapted to the vine, we 
now proceed to examine and describe the best modes of 
preparing the ground for planting the vineyard. And 
here, again, we find a diversity of modes suggested, each 
one having its advocates, who endeavor to maintain the 
superiority of their several plans. 

Trenching, to the depth of from two to three or four 
feet, has long been practiced in the vine-growing countries 
of Europe, where labor is cheap and land dear. Many 
European vine-dressers, bringing from their fatherland to 
this country the customs, prejudices, and habits they had 
followed there, introduced this same expensive practice of 
trenching their ground for a vineyard. "But the more 
intelligent of those emigrants, as well as our own vinicul- 
turists, are abandoning that laborious and expensive mode 



68 PKEPAEIXG THE GEOUXD FOK 

of preparing their lands, and resorting to the use of the 
plough, sub-soilers, etc. 

Col. Ilaraszthy proposes the following mode, which we 
think a very judicious one : The best mode (says Col. H.) 
to plough the land is with the so-called deep- tiller, for with 
it, by putting three horses abreast, you can plough twelve 
inches deep, except the soil should be very rocky. Follow 
this plough in the same furrow with a common shovel 
plough, or, as it is called in some places, bull-tongue. 
This simple instrument, with two horses attached to it, will 
tear up and pulverize the earth ten or twelve inches more 
in depth. There are various designs of sub-soil ploughs, 
but most of them require a great moving power, and will 
not answer, after all. The above-named bull-tongue is 
successfully used by many planters in Sonoma and Napa 
valleys, but it matters very little what ploughs or sub- 
soilers the planter uses, so long as he ploughs and sub-soils 
his land from twenty to tw^enty-four inches. 

Trenching the ground, says E. W. Bull, a successful 
vine-grower of Massachusetts, is wholly unnecessary. The 
roots thrive best in the warm sil^face soil ; the fruit ripens 
more easily, and is of better quality. 

JVo inaniirlng necessary. — Mr. I>. says : I have vines 
that give me annual crops of twelve pounds each, which 
have had no manure for ten years. 

Mr. Griffiths, at the meeting of Fruit Growers of 
Western New York, at Rochester, the past season, said : 
I have grown full crops of grapes for fourteen years, with- 
out manure, and expect to get good crops for twenty 
years more, in the same way. 

This part of our subject, however, has been treated more 
at length under our head of Soils. 

The Rural American says : Trenching for vineyards is 



VIN^ETARD PLANTATION. 69 

entirely useless, besides being a great expense. The soil 
can be prepared sufficiently with a plough, at an expense 
of $5 to $10 per acre, while trenching costs $200 to $300 
l^er acre. German vine-growers have introduced the trench- 
ing system into this country, because it is done in France 
and Germany, where men work for fifteen to twenty 
cents a day, and where it is more expensive to keep 
teams of horses and oxen than in this country. 

Our way of ploughing for a vineyard, is to employ two 
teams, one to follow the other in the same furrow, and both 
plough as deep as a pair of horses or yoke of oxen can 
draw the plough. If ploughing once does not prepare 
the land to suit, cross-plough in the same manner, and you 
will have your land prepared as well for |10 or $12 per 
acre as it would be if trenched at an expense of $250 per 
acre. 

A writer in the San Jose Mercury says : First, plough 
your ground at least one foot in depth ; then after harrowing 
and rolling smooth, plant in lots ten rods wide by forty 
rods long, seven or eight feet apart (I would prefer eight 
feet), leaving always between lots roads or avenues sixteen 
or twenty feet wide. In planting cuttings (which I prefer 
to rooted vines), cut them long enough to reach one foot 
into the ground, leaving one or two buds always above 
gromid, always being very careful to press the dirt 
closely around the vine, and especially at the bottom, as 
any vacuum there would cause the vine to mould and die. 
The only attention necessary the first year, will be merely 
to keep the weeds down, the same as in a cornfield. With 
this simple mode of planting and culture, I will warrant 
your vines to thrive as well and bear as early as those 
planted according to the tedious and expensive modes that 
you read of in many essays upon the vine. 



10 PREPAEING THE GROUND FOR 

On the subject of the proper distance apart at which 
vines should be planted, there is much diversity of opinion, 
many disagreeing with the suggestion of eight feet, as 
proposed by the writer just quoted, and others. But on 
this subject we shall treat more at length in another place. 

Another writer advises thus: Select your ground on 
some southern and southeastern slope, or any other dry 
land that you may have. Plough it from 15 to 20 inches 
deep, with a plough so constructed as to run in the same 
furrow, then lay the kind of grape you wish to cultivate 
4X4 or 4X10 feet apart, according to the variety. If 
dwarfish varieties, such as Delaware, Rebecca or Diana, 
4X5 feet is a good distance. If Norton's Virginia Seedling, 
Concord, etc., eight feet is not too far apart. Plant your 
vines as soon after the fall or winter rains as you can get 
them, and when done, hill up the rows as you would corn, 
covering them entirely. If water lies about the vine 
it will injure or perhaps kill it. When spring comes, 
plough to within three or four inches of the roots, so as to 
give them the benefit of the warm Spring sun and invigor- 
ating dews at night. As the season advances and the 
vines grow, level the ground with a horse cultivator. 

Clement Detten, in his prize essay, recommends the fol- 
lowing mode : After the situation has been selected for a 
vineyard, break up the soil, by means of a sub-soil plough, 
to the depth of one and a half or two feet ; then lay out 
the ground in rows, about eight feet apart each way. This 
distance will permit the use of the cultivator in Summer ; 
but where it is unnecessary to stir the soil after the Winter 
ploughing, a distance of five feet each way is sufficient. 
Dig the holes for the vines to such a depth that there will 
be about one foot of mellow soil below the roots, and 
of such width that there will be mellow soil at least six 



VrN-EYAED PLANTATION. 11 

incLes on eacli side of the extremities of tlie roots. In 
making the holes, throw the top soil on one side and the 
bottom soil on the other ; take the vine in one hand, and 
spread out the roots with the other in their natural posi- 
tion ; then have thrown some of the top soil on the roots 
by another man, while you keep shaking the roots so that 
all the spaces between them may be filled up with mellow 
soil ; press this mellow soil upon the roots, and then fill up 
the hole with the bottom soil. This is Mr. Delten's mode. 



ENCLOSING THE VINEYARD WITH A HEDGE. 

If the ground chosen for a vineyard has not already been 
fenced in, or if only with a slight temporary fence, we 
would recommend that at the same time the ground is 
being prepared for the planting of the vineyard, a few 
extra furrows be made, ploughed and sub-soiled precisely as 
for the vines, around the outward borders of the vine- 
yard, and planted with the Osage Orange seed, which, with 
little care and attention, will, by the time the vines are in 
bearing, make a close and elegant hedge, and a permanent, 
and, in the end, cheap as well as ornamental enclosure that 
will protect your grounds and adorn your domain. 

The following is, perhaps, as good a mode for planting 
a hedge as any : Sow the seeds, or set your plants of the 
Osage Orange from 12 to 18 inches apart; the seed maybe 
put closer, and afterwards thinned ; the soil should be rich, 
and be deeply dug, ploughed or trenched first. If you 
use young plants, cut them within two eyes of the surface 
of the ground, and in the following Spring cut down as 
much in proportion ; do not try to get the hedge quickly. 
The second year after planting — say in June — cut the 



72 PREPARING THE GROUND. 

sides of the hedge to the shape you wish. The conical is 
best, as offering most resistance to the action of snow. 
The third year, cut back enough to ensure a good hedge. 
If it is six feet high at the end of five years, you do well. 
And if it reach six feet by slow growth, it will turn. a mad 
bull. 

The seeds will require to be scalded in hot water, to 
make them germinate readily ; in California they may be 
planted as soon after the Winter rains as the ground can be 
put in order. 

Five pounds of seed will plant one mile of hedge ; each 
pound contains about 10,000 seeds. 

Where land is plenty and cheap, as in California and 
many other new portions of our country, we would suggest 
that in preparing and enclosing the ground for a vineyard 
by a hedge, as we have proposed, a space should be left be 
tween the enclosure and the vines of some eight or ten feet, 
to allow a road-way all around the vineyard, and also to 
afford room for teams to turn, at the ends of the rows, 
without trampling down the vines. 



PART VI. 

LAYING OUT AND PLANTING THE VINETARD. 

Modes of Propagating the Yine : 1, by Cuttings ; 2, by Layers ; 3, by 
Rooted Plants ; 4, by Seedlings ; 5, by Grafting ; 6, by Eyes ; Y, Hy- 
bridizing. Distance apart for the vines; Miller's, "Wolfskill's, Harasz- 
thy's Plans; cost of different plans; balance largely in favor of 4 by 
4 feet, and the layer system of planting. Table showing the number 
of vines per acre of the different distances apart. Diagram A, show- 
ing one acre planted after that plan ; diagram B, presenting a vine- 
yard of 100 acres and 242,352 vines, six years old, at a cost of $10,300 ; 
the Dibble, and how to use it; planting and yearly process of mana- 
ging a vineyard the first six years ; list of 44 varieties of grapes for 
100-acre vineyard; proper length of cuttings, and how prepared; 
Nursery for cuttings ; Do. for seedlings ; mode of packing grafts and 
cuttings ; eyes ; hybridizing. 

The vintager having prepared his ground by deep, 
thorough ploughing, sub-soiling, harrowing, etc., as de- 
scribed in tlie preceding chapter, will now be prepared to 
proceed to laying out and planting his vineyard. And 
here, at the outset, we must meet and dispose of the ques- 
tion as to JioiD far apart the vines should be planted. On 
this question there is, perhaps, a greater diversity of opinion 
and practice than on almost any other subject connected 
with vine culture. Many intelligent viniculturists in Cali- 
fornia ami elsewhere have practiced and advocated the 
system of planting the vines eight feet apart, each way. 
The well known vineyards of the Wolfskills, in the valley 
4 



74 LAYING OUT AND 

of Putah CreeJc^ in Yolo and Solano counties, and of Mr. 
Miller, the pioneer viniculturist and fruit grower of Pleas- 
ant Valley, not far from the Wolfskills', have been growing 
their vines from ten to fifteen years past in plantations laid 
out from six to eight feet apart ; and they have assured us 
that instead of bringing their vines closer together, they 
would, if planting anew, plant them still further apart. 
But it should be stated that those gentlemen have devoted 
their vineyards almost exclusively to growing grapes for 
table use, making very little wine ; and then, again, their 
vineyards are on low valley lands, where their vines have a 
rank, luxurious growth, and require more room to spread 
than vines planted on hills or hill-sides. And this wide 
planting has very generally obtained in California, as well 
as at the East. Even Col. Haraszthy, the experienced vini- 
culturist of the Buena Vista Vinicultural Society's vine- 
yards, one of the largest;, if not the most extensive vineyards 
in the world, conimenced his plantations eight feet by eight, 
and strongly advocated that system, but having, by practi- 
cal experience, been made to discover his error, he has the 
good sense to acknowledge it, and to give his reasons, very 
fairly, for the change of his views. And, as this is a ques- 
tion of so much importance to those who are about start- 
ing new vineyards, as well as to those who may find it their 
interest to bring their wide plantations nearer together by 
layers, we give, somewhat at length, Col. Haraszthy's plan 
and reasons for his change, as set forth in a communication 
addressed to the author of this little hand-book, as editor 
of the California Rural Home Journal, 

Buena 'Vista^ January 13, 1866. 
Editor of the Rukal Home Journal: 

In accordance with my promise, I give you a description 



PLANTING THE VINEYARD. 75 

of the present mode of my planting new vineyards, and the 
way of bringing the old plantation from eight feet to four 
feet apart. Some ten years ago, I planted my vines eight 
feet apart, and advocated this distance as well verbally to 
ray neighbors as in my essays. The reason for doing so 
was, that the native Calilbrnians had planted from five to 
eight feet apart ; this mode then seemed to me a good one, 
there being a plenty of land. Economy in ground seemed 
to be useless ; besides, it was advantageous to cultivate 
vines planted this distance with two-horse plows. Never 
theless, I experimented with close planted vines, but of 
course it took years before these trials could be conclusively 
tested. In 1861, when I was sent commissioner to Europe 
by the State of California, I visited many of the Imperial 
Vinicultural Gardens ; among the rest, that of Dijon in 
France, as well as those on the Rhine, and at Wiesbaden ; 
I found that at Dijon, for twenty-six years, experiments 
were made in the garden with close plantations and wide, 
beginning sixteen feet and coming down to one foot ; the 
grapes were, each and every parcel, separately weighed, 
and made into wine, and it proved that invariably the 
closest plantation gave the best and most wine. The same 
result was ascertained in Wiesbaden, and by many private 
individuals throughout Germany and France. The people 
all adopted close plantations. Throughout the famous 
Burgundy district all vines are planted one foot apart ; in 
the Medoc, three feet between the rows ; and in the rows, 
from one to two feet. In Hungary two feet between 
rows, and eighteen inches in the row. Italy and Spain, 
where but little progress is made, are the only countries 
where vines are far apart planted, and your readers well 
knOw that their wine is not celebrated. But even there, a 
few individuals have begun close plantation, and produce 



/ 



V6 LAYING OUT AND 

a better wine. The above named facts convinced me that 
my theory of wide plantation was wrong; still, on my 
arrival at home, I kept trying my experiments, and found 
in time that California is no exception in this respect. The 
intelligent vine-grower has no doubt found that if he per- 
mits his vines to bear too heavily they do not develop 
sufficient saccharine matter, nor do they color well ; that 
is, instead of being very dark blue, they will be pale — a 
/ kind of mulatto color. Of course there are soils of very 
rich quality which. will make exception to this ; and if the 
vine is pruned to few grapes, the vintager has a great deal 
of land to cultivate and gets but little wine. Besides, it 
takes five or six years before all the vines are bearing. 
During all this time, the cultivation of the acre of land 
having six hundred and eighty vines, is going on at a great 
deal of expense. The annexed tables will give a clear 
insight to your readers ; both of these calculations are from 
actual experience. Close plantation four feet each way 
contains 2,722 vines. 

Third year, 1,500 to bear out of 2,722 vines, f lbs., is 
1,125 lbs. It takes for one gallon first quality wine, 15 lbs. 
of grapes, yielding 

75 gallons at 40c. amounting to $30 

Second quality, 35 gals, for brandy, 20c 7 . .$ 37 

4tli year, 2000 vines, 1-J lbs. or 200 gals 80 

second quality, 100 gals 20. . 100 

5th, 2200 vines, 3 lbs., 440 gals 176 

second quality, 220 gals 44. , 220 

6th, 2400 vines, 3 lbs., 480 gals 192 

second quality, 240 gals 48 . . 240 

7th, 2600 vines, 3 lbs., 520 gals 208 

second quality, 260 gals 52 . . 260 

8th, 2700 vines, 3 lbs., 540 gals 216 

second quaUty, 270 gals 54. . 270 



PLANTING THE VINETAED. '?7 

9th, The same, 540 gals $216 

second quality, 270 gals 54. .$270 

10th, The same, 540 gals 216 

second quality, 270 gals 54. . 270 

Total produce of 8 years, from one acre $1667 

Plantation eight by eight feet, 680 vines to the acre : 

3d year, 340 vines bear f lbs. to the vine, 255 lbs., 

15 lbs. to one gallon, 40c. $6 80 

second quality, 8 gals 1 60. .$8 40 

4th year, 500 vines, li lbs., 50 gals 20 00 

second*quality, 25 gals 5 00 . . 25 00 

5th, 600 vines, 3 lbs., 120 gals 48 00 

second quality, 60 gals 12 00.. 60 00 

6th, 640 vines, 5 lbs., 213 gals 85 20 

second quality, 106 gals 21 20.106 40 

7th, 670 vines, 8 lbs., 358 gals 143 20 

second quality, 179 gals 35 80. 179 00 

8th, 675 vines, 360 gals 144 00 

second quality, 180 gals 36 00 . 180 00 

9th, The same 180 00 

10th, The same 180 00 

Whole produce for eight years from one acre $918 80 

Difference in favor of close plantation 748 20 

This is a considerable difference in the income of a man 
who has a vineyard of 100 acres. But the reader will see 
still another advantage in the close plantation, namely, 
that the income is a great deal more in proportion in the 
first, second, third, and fourth years, than in the eight feet 
plantation, where the income only increases towards the 
end of the calculation. And for a new beginner, it makes 
a great difference whether he gets, per acre, in the first 
three years, $37, or only $8.40 ; in the four years $100, or 
only $25, and so on. 



78 LAYING OUT AKD 

But I am told that the cultivation with hand labor, costs 
so much more ; this is erroneous ; first, vines four feet 
apart can be cultivated with horses and plough more easily 
than corn or potatoes; second, even if persons would wish 
to cultivate with hand labor, the cost is not more. An- 
nexed is the expense of the Buena Vista Vinicultural 
Society, for one hundred acres of vineyard planted eight feet 
apart ; however, at that time grain was three cents per lb. : 

6 Horses grain for 6 months, 15 lbs. per day each, 3 cts per lb. . . .$486 

12 tons hay for 6 months 240 

Pasture and hay for 6 months > 124 

3 Chinamen drivers working 6 months 468 

One man the balance of the year 157 

Hoeing and suckering 125 

Pruning, etc 300 

Total $1900 

The Society made layers during the winter of 1865 in its 
old vineyards, bringing the vines from eight feet to four feet, 
the layers being bent from the old vine into a ditch dug 
in the ground close to the vine, and brought out four feet 
from the old stem ; of course, for the first year, the vine 
remains attached to the main vine, consequently can not 
be ploughed. The cost of one hundred acres of vineyard 
of this description was as follows : 

Pruning ..$350 

First hoeing with fork-hoes very deep, and spading 1000 

Second hoeing and suckering 400 

Third hoeing and suckering 100 

Total $1950 

But this expense includes officers' salary, wear and tear 
of tools, while the calculation by horses does not. The 



PLANTING THE VINEYARD. 79 

work is superior to ploughing and no vine gets ruined 
entirely, or cut, which is often the case with bad plough- 
ing. 

Thus it appears that the original vineyard of 100 acres, 
(8x8), containing 68,000 vines cost $1,900 per year, while 
by the layer system, (4x4), 100 acres containing 272,200 
vines cost only $1,950 per year. 

This statement of Col. H. furnishes very strong reasons 
in favor of close, or 4 X 4 feet, planting, by the layer sys- 
tem. Still those whose grounds or preferences point to a 
different mode will, of course, adopt such a distance as 
shall suit them best. Some plantations are made 4X4, 
some 4 X 5, 5 X 5, 6 X 6, 8 X 8, etc. 

Number of Vines per Acre. To enable the reader to see 
at a glance how many vines to the acre will be required for 
different modes of planting, the annexed table is given. 
There being 43,560 square feet to the acre, the following 
calculations will be found as nearly correct as it is practi- 
cable to make them : 

Plants per Acre. 
3 feet by 3 requires 4,840 

3 feet by 4 3,630 

4 feet by 4 2, 7 22 

4 feet by 5 „.. 1,815 

4 feet by T 1,556 

5 feet by 5 1,'742 

5 feet by 6 1 ,452 

6 feet by 6 1,210 

6 feet by 7 1,037 

6 feet by 8 907 

7 feet by 8 780 

8 feet by 8 680 

The quantity of ground taken for roads, borders, etc., 
will reduce the above numbers somewhat. 



80 LA^TTN^G OUT AND 

MODES OF PROPAGATING THE VINE. 

1. BT CTJTTINGS. 

We go upon the presumption that where large vineyards 
are to be planted, as every day shows more and more to 
be the case, and the planting is to be done by cuttingsi, 
which is doubtless the most economical of all modes, the 
cuttings are to be set directly in the vineyard without 
•waiting to have them rooted in a nursery. 

The ground being prepared, as before indicated, let a 
line be stretched across the field the length intended for the 
row, with marks made by tying little tabs or slips of cloth 
to the line four feet apart (or whatever distance it is 
desired to plant vines apart) ; or a rod pole may be used, 
with wooden pegs four feet apart with which to punch the 
holes to indicate the places for the cuttings. Then let 
bunches of the cuttings, in parcels of one hundred, or there- 
abouts, be dropped along the row the distance that num- 
ber will extend. The planter then takes a sack filled with 
one hundred cuttings and throws it over his shoulder, leaving 
the upper ends easy of access ; he then takes his dibble and 
proceeds to make holes for the cuttings. The dibble is 
made of a billet of wood, three to four feet long, and about 
two inches thick, with an iron-pointed sheath encasing 
the lower half of the implement to a few inches above the 
place for the foot, and with a cross handle at the top, like 
that of an auger, thus : [See fig. 1, next page.] 

In this implement we have made the place for putting 
the foot in the shape of a stirrup, as easier for the foot 
than the usual mode of making them, with a peg or 
pin on one side. It would doubless be better to allow the 



PLANTTNG THE VINEYARD. 81 

iron to come five or six inches above and include the stir- 
rup, as being stronger than if of wood. The handle may- 
be fastened into it in a manner similar to that of 
a spade or shovel : to be made as light as pos- 
sible, consistent with proper strength. Or the 
handle may be made altogether of iron; in 
which case it will need to be much smaller. 

With the use of his hands and one foot the 
vintager presses this instrument into the ground 
where the cutting is to go, to the depth of fif- 
teen to twenty inches, or whatever depth the 
length of the cutting may require, leaving only 
two buds just above the ground. Let the dib- 
ble be worked each way to make the hole suffi- 
ciently wide ; then take it out, put in the cut- pj„ ^ 
ting, shove the dibble into the ground alongside a Dibble. 
of the plant, three or four inches from it, and press the 
earth against the cutting, and the feet on either side of 
it to compact the earth around it ; and then pass on to the 
next; and so on, until the plants on his back are all set: 
then take a fresh lot, and go on thus to the end. One 
man will plant 700 vines in a day in this manner. 

Proper length for cuttings and how prepared. As in 
everything else connected with grape culture, there is in 
this country a great diversity of opinion as to the proper 
lengths required for cuttings. Some say 10 to 12 inches ; 
some one foot and a half; some two, and some three feet. 
Muench says that 10 to 12 inches is ample ; Mr. Flint says 
12 to 15 inches. Haraszthy proposed two feet; Detten 
three feet. But, if they be but tolerably close jointed, we 
think that cuttings 12 to 15 inches long, are about the right 
length, and will make root more readily than if they are 
put so deep as not to feel the warmth of the upper surface 

4* 



82 LAYING OUT AND 

of the earth. In the dryer soils of California a length of 
15 to 18 inches may be best, perhaps. 

The cuttings should be cut from the vines so soon in the 
Autumn as the leaves shall have fallen and the past Sum- 
mer's wood, from which they are to be taken, shall be 
fully matured. Let them be cut off about an inch from the 
bud, at each end, with an inch or so of the old wood at the 
bottom. In California they may be used directly after 
being cut, or so soon as the rains shall have fallen suffi- 
ciently to enable the ground to be put in order. Where it 
is not practicable to use the cuttings as soon as made, let 
them be tied up in bundles of 100 each, where large quan- 
tities are used, with the upper ends all one way; bury the 
lower ends in some cool shady place, until near the time for 
planting ; then set the lower ends in water a few inches 
deep, until the buds have swollen, when they will be ready 
for use. In California they may be planted in January, if 
the ground shall be in proper condition. In the Eastern 
States they cannot, generally, be planted before the months 
of April or May. 

Nursery for Cuttings. If you wish to have a large 
number of roots before you lay out your vineyard, you 
ought to make a vine-nursery. Make a trench somewhat 
deeper than the length of the cuttings, the lower wall a lit- 
tle oblique, and fill it to the depth of a hand again with 
good earth ; into this stick the slips, and press the earth 
about the lower ends of them. By opening the second 
trench (as in trenching), the :irst is entirely filled, by which 
the lower wall is made somewhat slanting, and prepared 
for the second layer of cuttings, etc. The lower ends of 
the slips should ncA^er rest upon rough, unworked soil. In 
very dry weather water the cuttings in the evening ; but 
thf* water should not be too cold. The more hardy varie- 



PLANTING THE VINEYARD. 83 

ties, as Yirginia Seedling, Delaware, etc., may be planted 
in the late Autumn, and covered with straw. It possesses 
this advantage, that the lower part commences to bark 
over in the winter, which must precede the sprouting of 
the roots, and that the earth gets well settled about the 
roots while the ground is still damp. It needs no hoeing 
or watering, and most of the young stalks grow finely. 
When the time comes for the young buds to swell, they 
must be helped a little, that they may work easily through 
the straw, keeping the soil, however, still covered. This 
mode will, we presume, with little variation, answer for all 
sections of our country. 



2. BY LAYERS. 

The planter having determined what distance apart to 
adopt, is now prepared to line off his ground and mark the 
places for each vine ; but previous to this he must decide 
whether he will plant rooted vines, or cuttings ; and, if the 
latter, which we believe to be the best, as experience in 
California has pretty fully established, then he must deter- 
mine whether he will plant his ground all over at first, or 
80 commence his plantation as to finish out his vineyard by 
layers^ subsequently to be made. This latter we believe to 
be decidedly the most economical plan for those who wish 
to start a large vineyard with little money. It is set forth 
very clearly in the communication of Col. Haraszthy, from 
which we have already made extracts. To make it (says 
Col. H.) more intelligible, we take 100 acres, plant the 
rows forty feet apart, in the row the vines are planted 
four feet apart, this will plant the first year 27,220 on 
ten acres of ground, and roads included, 12i acres to culti- 



84: LAYING OUT AND 

vate; second year nothing is planted, but the above -vines 
cultivated; third year the same, but now, this winter, from 
each vine two layers are made, the layers are carried from 
the row, one each way, four feet, in a ditch, and the top 
brought above ground and pruned to two buds ; these 
layers and the main stem will bear this year. This opera- 
tion is repeated every year with the exception that there- 
after but one layer is made from each vine ; the whole is 
completed in seven years, so that in the named time the 
100 acres are closely planted with 272,200 vines. The 
advantage of such plantation is this, that a person in the 
first three years cultivates only the equivalent of ten acres, 
and after that he increases twenty acres every year ; but 
these twenty acres will bear the very year when he makes 
the layers, and so he cultivates only paying vineyards. 
The Buena Vista layers gave the last year 21 lbs. of 
grapes in average. The mode is simple and has the advan- 
tage of needing no replanting, as layers never miss. The 
following calculations will prove to you the economy of the 
new method. Both calculations below are reckoned upon 
the same basis : 

Planting 100 acres, by layers, about four feet apart each 
way, when seven years old. 

Planting ten acres at $30 per acre $300 

Cultivating, three years, at $20 per acre per year 600 

Making all the layers 272,200, 1| cent each layer 4,083 

Cultivating, fourth year $20 per acre 800 

'* fifth year 1,200 

" sixth year 1,G00 

" seventh year 2,000 

Total $10,583 



plajS'ting the vine yard. 85 

Cost by the old way of planting ; 

100 acres, $30 per acre $3,000 

Cultivating, seven years, $20 per acre per year 14,000 

Total $17, 000 

In favor of the new mode $6,417 on one hundred acres ; 
but the produce annually is still more in favor of this 
mode of planting. 

This we think an excellent plan ; but we would suggest 
a slight variation that we believe to be an improvement 
on the one recommended by Colonel Haraszthy. And that 
is to plant, at first, the rows thirty-six feet apart instead 
of forty, as it will come out, in the end, more evenly, and 
can be completed in six years instead of seven. 

To illustrate our idea, we give the annexed plans or dia- 
grams, marked A and B. 

Diagram A 

Shows one acre laid off in the manner we propose, and 
planted in rows thirty-six feet apart, and the vines four 
feet apart in the rows. The single rows of stars in the 
diagram show how the vineyard appears the first and 
second years; three rows, the third year; five rows, the 
fourth year ; seven, the fifth year ; and the sixth year, as it 
will be seen in section 6, the vineyard is completely cov- 
ered, making, after deducting for the road (21 feet), 2,376 
vines, or 36 rows, with 66 vines in each row. 



86 



LAYING OUT AND 



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Diagram A. 


1 Acre : 10 by 16 Eods. 


Scale: 4 


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le lucli. 



PLANTING THE VINEYARD. 87 

Or, to show the increase of vines per year, and the 
number to be cultivated thus : 

No. of Yines. 

First and second years 264 

Third year (2 rows layers added) '•92 

Fourth " (2 rows more added) 1,320 

Fifth " " " " 1,848 

Sixth " " " " ; 2,376 

To make this diagram still better understood, we have 
divided the acre plat into five cross sections. Commencing 
at the top of the page, the first section shows the appear- 
ance of the vineyard the fii'st and second years after 
planting; the second section, the third year; the third 
section, the fourth year : the fourth section, the fifth year ; 
and the fifth section the sixth year, or when the plantation 
is finished. 



COST OF ONE ACRE OF VINEYARD BY THE LAYER SYSTEM 
OF PLANTING, COMilENCING WITH CUTTINGS. 

Ploughing and preparing land $15 

264 cuttings 2 

Planting do 3 

$20 

Increased by layers, in six years, to 2,376 vines ; or. by 
adding the amount of $20 more to the expense, you may 
have 2,376 vines to your acre, 4 by 4 feet apart, the first 
year. 

COST OF PLANTING ONE ACRE BY THE OLD MODE,. WITH 
ROOTED VINES AND STAKES. 

Mr. Bull, of Concord, Mass., makes the following esti- 
mate for one acre of vineyard : 



88 LAYING OUT AKD 

126 vines at $25 per 100 $181 50 

40 loads compost 40 00 

• Ploughing 6 00 

Carting and cross ploughing 3 00 

'726 poles at one cent T 26 

Planting, two men, ten days 30 00 

$267 76 

Cost of cuttings and layer system 20 00 



Balance in ffwor of the cuttings and layer system.. $247 76 

Or over 1,200 per cent, in cost, besides an increase of 
over 30 per cent, of vines, which will of itself more than 
compensate for the difference of time at which the vines 
will come into bearing.. Or, as we have shown, you can 
bave 2,376 vines on your acre for $40. 

DiAGEAM B 

Represents a vineyard of 100 acres, laid out on a similar 
plan to that of diagram A, only in blocks of 108 by 815 
feet, with roads between every two blocks 12^ feet wide, 
beside a margin next the roads, on both sides, for the rows 
bordering on them, of two feet more, making the actual 
space between the border rows of each block, across the 
roads, 16^ feet. A main road or avenue runs through the 
centre of the vineyard lengthwise, twenty feet in width, 
dividing the tiers of blocks, and into which all the cross- 
roads enter. Each block is to be planted, the first year, 
with three rows, lengthwise ; the first row being planted 
eighteen feet from the line of the block or road ; the next 
row thirty-six feet from that, and the next thirty-six ftet 
from that, and eighteen feet from the opposite line or border. 

The first year, as shown in diagram A, these rows are 
planted with vines or cuttings, set four feet apart in the 



PLANTTN^G THE VINEYARD. 



89 



row. These are cultivated by ploughing, or using a culti- 
vator, say for three feet on each side of the rows, the first 




8I5FT. 



mimim/mimiwmssm'/mmm/nm 
2'dfeet. 815 FT. 



DiAGEAJkl B. 

100 Acres: 100 by 160 Rods. 
Scale 40 Eods to Inch. 



90 LAYING OUT AND 

and second years ; or, to make it more intelligble, we will 
state the matter tlius : 

First year. Plough, sub-soil and harrow a space six feet 
wide, eighteen to twenty inches deep, planting the row of 
vines or cuttings in the centre, four feet apart in the row ; 
which will make from ten to fifteen acres to work. 

Second year. Till with the plough, cultivator and hoe, 
these vines ; and plough, also, three feet more in width, on 
both sides, as a summer-fallow, to be used the next year, 
for new layers. 

Third year. The ground being well prepared, as early 
as March, or just before the vines begin to grow, start 
from each vine of each row, one layer on each side of the 
row, carrying them four feet in a trench made for the pur- 
pose, by pressing a broad spade into the ground to the 
depth of nine or ten inches and prying it back and forth ; 
turning up the ends of the layers, let them protrude from the 
earth far enough to bring two or three buds above ground. 
About two inches below the lowest bud, where the end of 
the layer is bent to form the new vine, cut a slit, an inch or 
so long, with a sharp knife, on the under side of the shoot, 
upwards and to about the middle of the layer, as at e, e, 
e, e, in fig. 2. When the layer is laid down, all the buds 
excepting two or three at the extreme end, and two or three 
left to produce the roots, should be rubbed ofiT to prevent 
their sprouting between the rows. During the season break 
off all surplus suckers, leaving only two or three shoots for 
bearers, etc., on the new vine. Cultivate, as before, and 
plough^ also, three feet more on each side of the rows, 
for the next year's layers. This year, if the vineyard has 
been well managed, and the seasons favorable, both the 
parent vine and the offshoot may be expected to produce 
some fruit. 



PLANTING THE VINEYARD. 



91 



Fourth year. Plough, sub-soil and prepare the borders, 
t]}is year four feet each way, for another course of layers, 
from the canes or shoots made by the layers of last year's 
growth, the same as the last year; cultivating also, of 
course, all the vines previously planted, with a shallow 
cultivator, so as not to interfere with the layers. 




FlGITEE 2. 

Appearance of the Vines at the close of the Fourth Season. 

a. Original cane with four Seasons"' growth. 
&. &. Layer Plants, with two " " 

c. c. " " " one " " 

d. d. Where layers are cut apart. 
«. 6 Slits to aid in forming roots. 

Fifth year. Proceed the same as the last year, in mak- 
ing one more row of layers from each of the two layers 
of the last year's growth, ploughing the ground adjoining 
that ploughed last year, to the width oi five feet, which 
will meet the summer-fallow ploughing from the opposite 
direction. 

Sixth year. Plough over, sub-soil, etc., the summer- 
fallow of last year, and extend the layers four feet more 
each way ; the whole vineyard can now be ploughed both 
ways ; and now the whole ground is completely covered, 



92 



LAYING OUT AND 



as in fifth cross section of diagram A, and we "have a com- 
plete vineyard of 100 acres, four feet apart each way, con- 
taining 242,352 vines, all more or less in bearing condition ; 
and part of the layers having been in bearing from the 
third or fonrth year, enongh, it may be fairly estimated, to 
pay the expense of cultivation for the fourth, fifth and 
sixth years, and leaving a large margin for profits. 

To illustrate the appearance of the layered vines the 
fourth year, we refer to fig. 2. 

Cost of Planting One Umidred Acres by Cuttings and 
Layers. To sum up the results, the cost, advantages, etc., 
of the foregoing system of planting, we have prepared the 
following table, showing the increase year by year, as 
well as the final result : 



First year To cultivate for vines, $15 per acre . 

"• " Summer-fallow, $5 per 
acre 

27,000 cuttings, at $5 

Planting do., at $2 per 1,000. . . 

Cultivating do., $15 per acre . . 

Miscellaneous expenses, say... 

Total expenses, first year . 

Second year . Land and yines to cultivate, per 

acre, $15 

Eeplacing cuttings that miscarried . 
Total, second year 

Third year . . 53,356 layers to make, at IJ cts 

Cultivating. &c., at $20 per acre 

Total, third year 

Fourth year . 53,'-56 new layers 

Cultivating, $20 per acre 

Total, fourth year 

FiftJi year . . . 53,860 new layers 

Cultivating, at $20 per acre 

Total, fifth year 

Sixth year . . . 53.860 new layers 

Cultivating and roads, $20 per acre.. 
Total, si.xth year 

Total cost of planting vineyard of 
100 acres, at the end of six years 



Acres. 
10 


Vines. 




5 


27,000 


80 


26,928 


45 


80,784 


65 


134,640 


90 


188,496 


100 


242,352 



Cost. 



$150 

25 
135 

54 
150 

86 



450 

50 



800 
900 



800 
1,800 



800 
1,800 



800 
2,000 



r.oo 



1,700 



2,100 



2,600 



2,800 



$10,800 



PLANTING THE VINEYAED. 



93 



SuMMAET OF ToTAL CosT of Planting and Cultivating Vineyard 
of 100 acres (icith 242,352 vines, after sixth year) ; with cost of 
wine making, tanl's, cashs, fixtures, etc. Also estimate of the 
yearly proceeds of vineyard, estimating wines at 30 cents, and 
hrandy at $1.25 per gallon, allowing 15 pounds of grapes for 
one gallon of wine. 



Pkodtjcts of Vinetakd. 



Years, 



1&2 

3 
4 
5 



9 
10 



Bearing 

Vines, 

No. 



30,000 
90.000 
150.000 
2i»0.o00 
242.352 
•-i42,352 
242,352 



Grapes, 
Pounds. 



212,000 
450,000 
700.000 
1,000.000 
1.200,0*0 
1,200.000 
1,500,000 



Wine, 
Galls. 



14,000 
30.000 
46.666 
66ti66 
72,5:10 
72,.')00 
75,000 



B'ndv 

Gulls. 



732 
1 500 
2.31 S 
3.125 
3.W0 
3,640 
4,000 



EXPENDITUEES. 



For 
Viney'd 

J $600 
1 500 
1,700 
2.1(10 
2.600 
2,800 
3,000 
3,000 
8.000 
3,000 



For 

Wine 

Making. 



$3,030 
4,454 
5,615 
6.i)2' 
7,545 
7,000 
7,000 



Cost of 100 acres of land for vineyard, and inclosing same 
with hedge, at $50 

Cost of makins 1S.955 galls, brandv, at 25 cts 

Value of 100 aeres of vineyard after 10 yrs., at $100. . .$10,000 
" 243.352 vines " '' at 50 cts. . 121,676 
" buildings, wine cellars, etc 16.444 



Total amount of profits. 



Annual 
Total 



$1,100 

1,700 
5,130 
7.054 

8,415 

9.925 

10,545 

10,000 

10,000 



$68,869 

5.000 
4,438 



$78,307 



Income. 



A nnual 
Total, 



$5,115 
10,875 
16,S97 
23,906 
26,300 
26.300 
27,500 



$136,893 



148,120 



$285,013 
73,807 



$211,706 



. PETAIL COST OF WINE MAKING, ETC. 

The detail of the cost of tanks, casks, barrels, wine- 
presses, machinery, and wine making, as estimated in the 
foregoing table, may be stated thus, for a vineyard of 100 
acres, and 243,352 vines: 



94 



LAYING OUT AND 



Year. 


Expense of wine 

making, at 5 cts. per 

gall. 


Press- 
house 
expenses. 


Fermenting 

tanks, 4,000 

galls, capacity 

$130 each. 


Barrels for wine 
when made, at 
5 cts. per gall. 


Total. 




Galls. 


Cost. 




No. 


Cost. 


Galls. 


Cost. 




4tli] 
5th j 
6th j 
7th j 
8th i 
9th -j 
10th 1 


14,000 
30,000 
46,666 
66,666 
72,500 
72,500 
75,000 


$735 
1,500 
2,333 
8,333 
8,625 
8,625 
8,625 


$870 
1,362 
1,785 
2,092 
3,005 
2,460 
2,460 


5 
6 
5 
5 
3 
3 
3 


$650 
780 
650 
650 
390 
390 
390 


15,500 
16,250 
16,950 
17,000 
10,500 
10,500 
10,500 


$775 

812 
847 
850 
525 
525 
525 


$8,030 
4,454 
5,615 
6,925 
7,545 
7,000 
7,000 



In the foregoing estimate, it will be seen, we have allow- 
ed |20 per acre for after-cultivation; the Buena Vista 
Commissioners state their actual cost to be, in 1864, $6.03 
per acre, including the pruning of vines, allowance for 
superintendence, wear and tear, &c. They think it may- 
increase with the age of the vineyard and hand-cultiva- 
ting, to $24 per acre. 

We have allowed $2 per thousand for planting the cut- 
tings. Mr. Harazsthy, the younger, says one man will 
put in VOO per day ; our estimate will allow |1.40 per day 
for laborers. They are usually to be hired for |1 per day, 
that is, Chinese laborers. 

In the above calculation we have stated, in round num- 
bers, the amount of land cultivated for vines at ninety 
acres, leaving ten acres for roads. The more exact calcula- 
tion would make the roads 11.03 acres, leaving in the 
vineyard a small fraction less than 89 acres of vines, closely 
planted, four feet by four; but the number of vines is, 
as above, 242,352. 

All the cultivation required for the roads, is to keep the 



PLANTING THE VINEYARD. OJT 

grass and weeds from growing. The intervening space 
between the rows of vines, for the first three or four years, 
may be planted with such crops as the vintager may choose, 
taking care that whatever they may be, they shall not be 
allowed to encroach upon the vines. 

The layers may be detached from the main stocks the 
second year after being laid down, if the layer-plant is 
sufficiently rooted, as it doubtless will be. Why we pro- 
pose to put the layers so deep (say 8 to 10 inches), is so 
as to allow a shallow narrow cultivator, or small shallow 
plough, to pass over them (say six inches deep), between 
the newly-formed row and the parent stock, without dis- 
turbing the layer. Great care will be required in this 
respect. 

It would be better to sumnier-f allow the ground for the 
original planting where it is practicable ; at all events, it 
may and should be done every year, as the planting pro- 
ceeds, as it will enable the cuttings to be put in, or the 
layers to be made either just before or immediately after 
the first rains, which will ensure their growth, even though 
the succeeding season should be one of drouth. 

Ploughing can be hired done, where the planter has not 
yet his teams, ploughs, etc., for |2 per acre, where gang 
ploughs can be used ; on hilly land, hill-sides, etc., it will 
cost more. 

In the Massachusetts Ploughman, we find the following 
on the subject of propagating by layers : We know of no 
reason why a " layer " will not make as good a bearing 
vine, as one propagated from an eye, or a cutting ; yet 
some horticulturists seem to think that there is some 
difiierence. 

A layer is when a vine is laid down in a trench^ a few 
inches deep, and when the new wood has grown from each 



9o 



LAYING OUT AND 



eye a few inches, the earth is thrown in around the canes 
shooting up, and they form roots at each growing eye, or 
bud, and by fall each cane becomes a well rooted vine. 

In setting out layers they sometimes fail to grow from 
the buds, owing to being less of them than on vines 
grown from cuttings ; but they will in nearly every case 
— and in all cases, if the roots are kept moist — grow 
from the shoulders of the roots ; therefore let no one con- 
sider such a vine as dead till it has time to throw up a 
shoot or two from under the soil, which will be in June 
or July. 

For the forty-four blocks in our diagram of an hun- 
dred acre vineyard, we would suggest the following: 



LIST OF FORTY-FOTJR CHOICE VARIETIES OF GRAPES FOR A 
VINEYARD OF 100 ACRES IN CALIFORNIA, 

[Each block, when first planted, contains 3 rows, and 
204 vines in a row, and 26,928 vines altogether; when 
complete, 27 rows, and 5,508 vines, and the whole 44 
blocks contain 242,352 vines.] 



Blocks. 


Varieties of Grapes. 


First 
Planting. 


When 
Finished. 


3 
3 

3 
2 

2 
2 


Black Hamburg, for Wine and Table. 

White Muscat of Alexan- 
dria, Table and Eaisins. 

Feher Szagos, R. and T. 

Lombard or Flame-colored 

Tokav, • T., E., and W. 

Black July, W. 

Black Burgundy, W. 

Carried forward 


1,836 

1,836 
1,836 

1,224 
1,224 
1,224 


16,524 

16.524 
16,524 

11,016 
11,016 
11,016 




9,180 


82,620 



PLANTIISrG THE YHsTEYAED. 



97 



Blocks. 


Vaeieties of 


Grapes. 


FresT 
Planting. 


"When- 
Finished. 




Brought forward 


9,180 


82,620 


2 


Larga, or Malao-a Bloom, 


R. and T., 


1,224 


11,01? 


1 


White Frontignan, 


T. and W., 


612 


5,508 


1 


Ro3'al Muscadine, 


(( 


612 


6,508 


1 


Black Frontignan, 


u 


612 


5.508 


1 


Black Prince, 


« 


612 


5.508 


1 


Grrizzlj Frontignan, 


(( 


612 


5,508 


1 


Black Morocco, 


(( 


612 


5,508 


1 


White Tokay, 


« 


612 


5,508 


1 


Rose of Peru, 


« 


612 


5,508 


1 


White Malvoise, 


(i 


612 


5,508 


1 


Charlesworth Tokay, 


It 


612 


5,508 


1 


Syrian, 


u 


612 


5,508 


1 


Verdelho, 


il 


612 


5,508 


1 


White Sweetwater, 


11 


612 


5.508 


1 


Black Muscat, 


u 


612 


5,508 


1 


White Hamburg, 


1. 


612 


5,508 


1 


Zintindal, 


(( 


612 


5,508 


1 


White Rissling, 


« 


612 


5,508 


1 


Aleppo, 


R.. T., and W. 


612 


■ 5,508 


■ 


Red Chasselas, 


T. and W. 


204 


1,836 


l] 


Rose Chasselas, 


W. 


204 


1,836 




Black Cluster, 


w. 


204 


1,836 


■ 


Black Lombardy, 


R, T., and W. 


204 


1,836 


l] 


Miller's Burgundy, 


u u 


204 


1,836 




Bowker, 


(( (( 


204 


1,836 


H 


Tribbiana, 


l( (( 


306 


2,754 


White Corinth, 


Raisin. 


306 


2,754 


1 


Mission, 


T. and W. 


612 


5.508 


1 


Muscatel, 


R., T., and W. 


612 


5,508 


1 


Proximen (Malaga), 


a <( 


612 


5,508 


( 


Catawba, 


a (( 


204 


1.836 


1-^ 


Delaware, 


<< It 


204 


1,836 


f 


Concord, 


<( u 


204 


1,836 


l\ 


Hartford Prolific, 


(( (( 


306 


2,754 


Herbemont, 


(( (1 


306 


2,754 




Isabella, 


U (( 


204 


1,836 


14 


lona, 


(1 (( 


204 


1,836 


• 


Clinton, 


(( (( 


204 


1,836 




26,928 


242,352 



98 LAYING OUT AI^ 

For a description of the several varieties, see Part YIIL, 
under their several heads. Those who may choose to plant 
more of the Mission grape, or to make any other change in 
thv=^ foregoing list, will of course use their own discretion 
in doing so. 



3. BY EOOTED PLANTS. 

Planting Mooted Vines is a proceeding so well understood 
that it is scarcely necessary to enter into a detail of the 
process in this place. It is a much more slow and expen- 
sive process than that with cuttings ; and must, we think, 
eventually give place altogether to the modes of propagat- 
ing by cuttings and layers ; nor is there much, if anything, 
gained in point of time, for the one will come into bearing 
about as soon as the other, and will, in many localities, 
make stronger, healthier vines. By the veranda of our 
consular mansion in China, we planted both cuttings and 
rooted vines ; the former made a growth the first year of 
twenty-five feet ; the latter a few feet less in length, and it 
bore a few bunches of grapes. As we wished them for 
shade over our trellised veranda, we did not check their 
rampant growth, but found that cuttings were a little ahead 
of the rooted vine in luxuriance and thrift ; and thus we 
believe it to be in other places. The cost of rooted vines 
and the labor of transplanting them are so much more than 
cuttings call for, that, excepting in small, choice lots, for the 
garden or border, we cannot recommend that system of 
planting. We agree with Dr. Strentzel in the opinion that 
whenever cuttings can be obtained of thrifty growtii, tnicK, 
short-jointed, well ripened wood, and of proper length, and 
can be planted early in the season, they are preferable in 



PLxiNTING THE VINEYARD. 99 

vineyard culture, as the first growth of roots are un disturbed 
in their natural inclination to grow to their best advantage, 
and soon overtake rooted vines. Some foreign varieties, 
yet scarce, and of slender gi'owth, it is preferable to 
transplant when rooted two years in nursery. Yearling 
plants have but scanty roots, and these get so mutilated 
in the process of transplanting, that they are nearly 
worthless. 

But for the information of those who may have rooted 
vines in their nurseries, and desire to plant from them, and 
who wish to use stakes for their vines, we give the follow- 
ing directions from Muench, which we think will answer 
for almost any meridian : 

If roots instead of cuttings be procured for the first 
planting, make by the stake a sufficiently large and deep 
hole, throw some dirt from the surface into it, hold the 
stem against the stake and spread out the roots with care 
in the hole, over which put some loose earth, which must 
be a little presseddown with the hand. It is a great fault 
to plant too deep. The upper roots should not lie more 
than three or four inches deep. (In the dry soil of Califor- 
nia they will require more depth.) Make a little mound 
around the stem lest the plant sink too low when the earth 
in the hole has settled. If the earth be dry, pour a little 
water on the roots when planting. Many, before j^lanting, 
shorten the roots to a few inches, the need of which I do 
not understand. The more roots there are from the besrin- 
ning, the better the growth will be. Only in seedlings do 
I cut off these roots that are too puffy. All the old wood 
should, in planting, be covered up, and of the growth of 
the previous year but one or two buds should be left ex- 
posed. Roots of one year old should only be planted when 
hardy ; others should be left in their places another year. 



100 LAYING OUT AND 

For weak roots, mulching, that is covering with straw or 
leaves, is very beneficial. 

In speaking of this mode of planting in California^ Wil- 
son Flint says : Rooted vines designed for planting out 
should be taken up from the nursery before the warm days | 
of February, so that their buds are not swollen. On being 
taken out of the nursery, they may have their tops short- 
ened back to within one bud of the old cane, and the roots 
pruned at the sanie time, when they can be heeled in ready 
for planting out, which is best to be done either in Decem- 
ber or March. Where there are more than one set of roots, 
it is best to prune the lower ones nearly back to the cane, 
as this induces, afterwards, a top-like tendency. The up- 
per, or surface roots, may be left longer, and spread out so 
as to reach beyond the lower ones before they delve down 
ward. This practice, it will be observed, prevents the 
roots from interfering with each other. 

The query of Mr. Muench, our Missouri author, as to the 
advantage of pruning the roots of vines, is thus answered 
by Mr. Flint, our California viniculturist. 

Col. Haraszthy suggests the following mode : 

When the land is laid out, and a stick staked at every 
point where a vine is to be planted, a hole must be dug 
twenty inches square and about two feet deep. The ground 
from said hole is to be laid out as follows : the top ground 
to your right, the second ground to the left, and the third 
in front of the hole ; then the bottom of the hole should be 
well dug up with the spade, leaving the last ground in the 
hole. The earlier the holes are thus finished before plant- 
ing, the better ; then the longer the earth is exposed to the 
atmosphere and rains, the more it will be fertilized. Before 
you begin to plant your vines, have the holes filled, fox 
rooted vines, to within about six inches of the top ; if foi 



PLANTING THE VINETAKD. 101 

cuttings, about ten inches. First the ground to your 
right, being the top ground, is thrown in tlie bottom of the 
hole, then that on your left. This done you proceed to 
planting. When the holes are filled, as above described, 
if you plant cuttings, have said cuttings two feet long, bend 
the cuttings ten inches deep in the hole, near to a right 
angle, the lower part of which is laid horizontally on the 
bottom, and the upper part on the side-wall of the hole, 
the top of it to be above the ground three inches ; then fill 
the hole from the ground surrounding it, which, of course, 
is top earth ; then tramp the earth first on your cutting, 
that no vacancy shall remain in the hole, otherwise foul air 
will gather in the vacuum, and the cutting become mouldy 
and die. But if you plant rooted vines, your holes wUl be 
filled to six inches. Now take your rooted vine, spread the 
roots on the bottom, and throw from the surrounding top 
ground on the roots ; shake them well, so that the pulver- 
ized earth shall get amongst the roots ; then tread gently 
with your foot around the plant. After this the ground is 
to be so leveled about the vine as to leave a dish-like ex- 
cavation around the same, as a receptacle and conductor of 
moisture to the roots. Be careful never to plant your vines 
too deep. It is better if you make a mistake to have them 
too shallow than too deep. 

The suggestion of Col. H. to have a small sink-hole left 
about the plant, is diflTerent from that of Mr. Muench, M'ho 
proposes to hill it up for settling. We should think that 
if the ground were left even, it would settle enough to 
allow of its gathering the moisture, which is, of course, 
more necessary in California than in the Eastern States. 



102 LAYING OUT AND 

4. BY SEEDS. 

The following is the process as given by the editor of the 
Rural American : We have grown seedlings extensively, 
having now some 2,000 bearing seedling vines, or old 
enough to bear fruit, and will describe our system of propa- 
gation, etc. 

The first seed sown, in 1860, was sown in drills, about 
one foot apart, in November. The seed was scattered 
thickly, perhaps one hundred to the foot, in a drill three 
inches wide and one inch deep. We covered the seed 
about half an inch deep with fine garden soil. 

The following spring we watched the drills closely, but 
saw nothing but a rank growth of weeds, till about the 
10th of June, when the seed vegetated, looking very much 
like peppers when the plants first appear, with two leaves, 
rather broader than those of the pepper plant. 

In a few days the rov,^s were covered with the plants, 
and soon the third leaf appeared, which had all the shape, 
form, and characteristics of the full-sized grape-vine leaf 
We weeded out the rows, and kept them free of weeds 
till Fall, when we had several thousand young vines, grown 
closely together, but each with a small well-ripened cane, 
a few inches long, and with good roots. In November of 
1861, we dug them up with a vine fork, without much dis- 
turbing the ground, as we expected a second crop of vines 
from the same seed the following June. We laid the vines 
upon the surfice of the soil, and covered them in layers 
with earth, and left them till the following spring, when 
we set them out in row^s five feet apart, and two feet apart 
in the rows, for the purpose of allowing them to remain 
there till the time for fruiting, wliich is in the fourth and 
fifth years. We now have a large number that will 



PLVNTIKG THE VINEYARD. 103 

produce fruit this year, some of which will, probably, be 
worthless, and some good ; and possibly one or more vines 
may produce a really valuable grape. 

In regard to the second crop^ alluded to above, it came 
in June, quite as numerous as that of the preceding year ; 
and here we will observe, that Dr. Bull, the originator of 
the Concord grape, thinks that the best and strongest vines 
come up the second year. We, however, see no good 
reason for such an opinion. 

The second lot of grape seed sown was placed in a box 
(there was a half a bushel of seed) holding four bushels, 
in November, 1864, and mixed with earth, filling the box, 
and left standing in our garden through the winter of 
1864-5 ; and about the middle of May, 1865, it was sown 
in drills, came up in June, and now we have a large crop, 
second year's growth, in the same drills. 



5. BY GEAPTING. 

Still another mode of cultivating the vine is by grafting. 
This may become necessary when the vintager finds, after 
his vines begin to bear, that his fruit is of an inferior 
quality, or where he wishes to improve upon his old varie- 
ties. And in small gardens, or borders about the house, it 
is an interesting and pretty sight to see a little grape tree 
or vine, containing half a dozen or more varieties of fruit, 
combining all shades of color and variety of sizes. Mr. 
Miller, the pioneer orchardist and viniculturist of Pleasant 
Valley, Solano County, in this State, grafted his whole 
vineyard of many thousands of vines, which were of the 
Mission or California varieties, some years since, with the 
choicest varieties of European grapes, which are now in 



104 LAYING OUT AND 

full bearing, embracing the Black Hamburg, the White 
Muscat of Alexandria, the Chasselas de Fontainbleaii, or 
Royal Muscadine, as it should be called, etc. And finer, 
more luscious fruit than is grown on these vines, we have 
rarely seen produced in the finest grape-growing regions 
of the Mediterranean. From one block of 2,000 Muscat 
of Alexandria, Mr. M. informs us that he had, last year, 
(the third year after planting), an average yield of one 
dollar and a half per vine ! Out of some 30,000 growing 
vinos in his vineyard, he has only two or three hundred 
of the California natives — those beino^ vines that the o;rafts 
failed to grow from. 

Dr. S. J. Parker, of Ithaca, N. Y., suggests the following 
mode of grafting the gr^pe ; The most successful way to 
do it is to dig up a root of the Isabella, as that will grow 
anywhere south of Canada, and cut it in lengths of three 
inclies to a foot long, according to the rapidity with which 
the vine is desired to be grown ; insert the scion into the 
upper end of this root stock. This can be done at any 
time of the year, but early spring is the best for this mode 
of grafting, whether for pots or to be put out in the open 
soil on " borders," that mysterious word to most farniers, 
but which means any suitable fence out of doors, in its 
common acceptation. A friend of mine is very successful 
in grafting ; he recommends one year old Isabella vines, 
not pieces of roots. 

A Long Island cultivator grafts the grape vine the same 
as he does pears, apples, etc., and, he says, with almost in- 
variable success. He sets on young side-shoots near the 
bottom of the parent or main stem, and as close to it as it 
can be done. He uses basswood matting for bandaging 
the grafts and well-worked clay, and over all some moist- 
ened moss. He has had them to ripen from ten to twelve 



PLANTING THE VINEYARD. 105 

feet of wood in one season. We see no reason why this 
should not succeed as well as other grafting. 

On this subject Mr. Detten says: By grafting, with 
good judgment, the maturing of the grape may be hastened, 
or its quality improved, or both. For this purpose I would 
recommend grafting by approach. In doing so, the stock 
or branches of two different vines are brought together, 
slicing out a corresponding portion from each, and binding 
the two together, the wood and bark correctly fitting. 
Cotton twist may be very appropriately used for binding 
them together. Then tie to a stake until union be effected. 
When union is complete, cut aw^ay the vine w^hich is not 
wanted above and the root of the other vine below, and 
the grafting is finished. 

These examples are sufficient to show what can be done 
in the Avay of propagating the vine by grafting, where it 
becomes necessary to do so. But, as we have already in- 
dicated, of all the modes for propagating and cultivating 
the vine, we give the preference to that of using cuttings 
and layers. 



Mode of Packi7ig Grafts arid Cuttings. 

When it becomes necessary to bring grafts, cuttings 
or scions from a distance, the following method is the one 
substantially proposed for packing them, by Muench, in 
his School of American Grape Culture : 

First wrap them in damp moss, or wet cotton, or even a 
wet newspaper will do ; then cover them closely with oil 
silk, or thick oil cloth (paper?), and over this a thick paper 
on which the address may be written. Write on it 
*' Grafts," which will make the postage quite low. [The 



106 LAYING OUT AND 

U. S. postage is two cents for every four ounces, or eight 
cents per pound, for parcels not exceeding four pounds 
each. — Author.] The recipient should take the wrappers j 
off immediately, mark down the varieties, and then bury 
the scions in the earth until grafting or planting time. 

In Copeland's Country Life, we find the following : 
It is very easy to send cuttings to great distances without 
destroying their vitality, if placed loosely in a tin case, 
with half a table-spoonful of water, more or less, according 
to the size of the case, which should be hermetically 
sealed. 

If placed thus loosely in the case, we should think they 
might be injured by shaking about and breaking the buds 
off, or injuring them. If a little cotton were wrapped 
around them, it would doubtless obviate this danger ; or 
put them in an air-tight tin can with powdered char- 
coal, moistened slightly, is said to preserve them perfectly. 



6. BY EYES. 

The eyes should be prominent, well developed, and on 
the last year's wood ; cut an inch above and an inch below 
the eye ; select a number of small pots or boxes of five or 
six inches in diameter, fill with rich light loam, leaving 
small apertures at the bottom for sufiicient drainage ; set 
the cuttings so that the eye shall be covered by at least an 
inch of the loam. The pots or boxes should have a bottom 
heat of 70° to 80°, and the air kept at a temperature of 60° ; 
the buds will soon begin to germinate ; keep the earth in 
which the plants are a little moist. As soon as the shoot 
is above the surface, water occasionally, and take care that 
no worms get among the plants. In a month or there- 



PLANTING THE VINEYARD. 107 

abouts they will become fine plants, six to eight or ten 
inches high, and may be removed to the garden or borders 
where required to grow. 

Or, instead of the above mode, which we find recom- 
mended by Copeland, the buds or eyes may be planted out 
directly in the nursery or propagating ground. 

Mr. Barry, the well-known pomologist of Rochester, 
N. Y., on returning from a recent visit to the Lake Shore 
Vineyard, on the Ohio borders of Lake Erie, speaks thus, 
in the Rural New Yorker, of the propagating grounds con- 
necting with those vineyards: It is estimated that nearly a 
million of young plants are on the grounds, all propagated 
from eyes the present season, in the open ground. They 
are planted closely, three or four inches apart, in beds 
about four feet wide, and all covered an inch or two deep 
with tan-bark. Except in some spots, where the wood was 
defective or the soil unsuitable, the crop is quite satis- 
factory. Mr. B. says the Catawba is still the prevailing 
grape grown in those vineyards. 

This system of propagating, however, can scarcely be 
recommended for general use, except where it is desirable 
to multiply choice varieties that are scarce. 



7. BY HYBEIDIZING. 

This is a system of producing new varieties of the grape 
by crossing the different kinds by means of mixing the pollen 
of the flowers of the varieties chosen to experiment with. 
This is a very interesting study, doubtless, to those who 
have the time and patience to experiment, but it is rather 
a slow process for Californians to pursue at present, to any 
great extent. Still for the satisfaction and convenience of 



108 LAYING OUT AND 

connoisseurs and of those who may possess the taste, 
patience and time to pursue this interesting branch of 
natural science, we will transcribe a brief extract from a 
description of the process, as embodied in an interesting 
paper on this subject, written by Dr. J. S. Parker, of 
Ithaca, N. Y., and published in the Keport of the Depart- 
ment of Agriculture for the year 1864 : 

The grape opens its flower by a singular process, differ- 
ent from most other plants. We see the cherry, peach 
and apple expand their petals, and retain them with their 
white or red colors several days ; but the grape has its 
petals so united at the top of the flower that, as it opens, 
the petals are drawn off from their attachments and cast 
off" in a sort of hood that falls to the ground, leaving the 
stamens and pistil naked. If there is any dif&culty in 
making hybrids it is in the removal of this hood, which 
should be done as soon as it is loose, and before it is natu- 
rally thrown off, and so to do it as not to jar down the 
pollen of the stamens on the top of the pistil, for I have 
often seen the pollen fall like a minute cascade of yellow 
particles, so heavy it is, and so direct and rapid its fall. 
Notwithstanding this apparent difficulty, the hood can be 
easily removed by the use of forceps and scissors no more 
delicate, nor by hand more steady, than is required by the 
surgeon in many cases daily demanding his skill. One 
circumstance I have not seen noticed ; it is, that as soon as 
the hood of petals is off, the top of the pistil begins to be 
covered with a minute globe of transparent fluid, beauti- 
fully clear and highly refractive, glistening like a dew drop 
on thd top of the pistil. It takes usually from a few 
moments to an hour or two, according to the weather, for 
this minute globule to be perfected. 

Now, no impregnation can take place unless this minute 



PLAIO'ING THE VIXETARD. 109 

drop of fluid is secreted so far as to receive the pollen — 
that is, Tintil it is almost or quite expanded to its full 
extent, which is rarely before the petal hood has fallen 
whether by art or nature. One more fact — the pollen falls 
on, adheres to and sinks into this minute drop ; and as soon 
as a sufficient quantity has thus been received by this drop 
of fluid it becomes turbid or milky, losiug its transparency, 
and is drawn into certain pores or tubes, which are seen by 
their mouths as roughness on the stigma, which is the 
enlarged portion on the top of the pistil. Thus if the 
pollen is abundant, and the weather favorable, a few hours 
may suffice ; if not, a day or two, or even the third day, 
may be required to complete the impregnation. After the 
third day I have not noticed the drops of fluid, even when 
the impregnation failed, the top of the pistil being dry. 
A rain may wash this drop oflT ; and hence, though the 
season is otherwise favorable, there may be a large failure 
of grapes, though the drop is often renewed, at least once 
or twice after an accident Early in the morn- 
ing of the first day of the opening of the flowers, at or 
soon after daylight, a few of the petal-hoods fall and a few 
drops expand, but not many until the genial warmth of 
nine or ten o'clock is reached, which is the most favorable 
hour for the operation of hybridization. The operator 
then taking his stand close by the bunch of flowers, cuts 
away those that have opened and expanded the drop fully, 
while he watches for the loosening of a number of petal- 
hoods ; these he immediately removes, either with fine for- 
ceps or the point of fine scissors, his eye closely watching 
whether any other bursts and lets fall a stream of pollen 
on the somewhat expanded globule. At this stage there 
is no fear of pollen dust ; it falls, as I have said, heavily 
and quickly downward. If the globule of the pistil has 



110 LAYING OUT AND 

escaped this danger, the operator allows a moment to pass, 
that the others may expand or bend outward on their 
stems when he cuts them away. Thus he selects and oper- 
ates on as many flowers as he desu-es, or which open that 
morning. He now watches the maturing expansion of the 
minute globules on the top of each pistil, and as soon as 
they have acquired a full roundness, curving to the smaller 
vase by which they rest on the pistils, he knows they are 
ready to receive the pollen artificially. On a favorable day 
this takes but a short time ; in less favorable weather hours 
may be needed, and in bad weather even a day or two. 
But when the right moment has arrived he dusts the 
globule freely, sprinkles it with an excess of pollen, then 
waits a few hours to see if the globule has lost its clear- 
ness, and IS withdrawn down into the recess of the germ 
to perfect the seed of the future grape-vine. If so, then 
the hybridization is complete ; if not, he must re-dust the 
globule every few hours while it is visible. 

These extracts, all that we can find room for in our little 
work, intended only as an epitome of grape culture, rather 
than an elaborate scientific treatise, must suffice; they 
will doubtless give the reader some idea of this interesting 
process ; and those who intend to pursue the subject 
extensively, will find it necessary to have recourse to more 
elaborate works on the subject. 

The kinds of grapes recommended by Dr. Parker to use 
for fertilizing our native varieties, are the Black Ham- 
burg, the Chasselas Musque, White or Gray Frontignan, 
and the White Muscat of Alexandria. 

Mr. Edward I. Rogers and John Fisk Allen, both of 
Salem, Mass., are the only two gentlemen that have, as yet, 
we believe, produced any very valuable new varieties of 
the grape from this system of hybridizing j if we except, 



PLANTING THE VINEYARD. Ill 

perhaps, Mr. Jacob Moor, of Rochester, and a few others, 
of less note. The Clover Street Black, and the Diana Ham- 
burg, produced by Mr. M., are said to be fine varieties, 
and will be found more fully described under our head of 
Native Yarieties of Grapes. 



PART Vll. 

PEtJKlNG AND AFTER-CTJLTTJEE. 

Diversity of opinions and practice on the subject of Pruning; ; how it is done 
in Europe, — Malaga, — Morocco ; close pruning considered necessary 
to produce fine flavored grapes or choice wines ; the vine must be 
trimmed, and now ; pruning sliould have reference to the formation 
of wood for the coming year, and the forming of fruit in the present; 
various authorities on the various modes of pruning ; pinching-in ; 
Mr. Fhnt's description of a model vineyard in El Dorado County, and 
the way it is pruned; pruning should not be done whil'' the vine is 
maturing its seed; low pruning preferred; CoL Haraszthy's opinion; 
no staking or irrigation necessary ; summary of pruning operations for 
each year ; Summer pruning and suckering ; modes of pruning and 
training at the East ; Grape Hints for the vintager ; save your cut- 
tings, etc. 

Having in the preceding pages discussed the various 
modes of planting and propagating the vine by cuttings, 
layers, rooted plants, seedlings, grafting, etc., we will now 
proceed with the process of Pruning and after-culture of 
the vineyard. 

And there is on this branch of our subject, also a great 
diversity of opinion and practice. In this country, and 
especially in the Eastern States, vinegrowers have been so 
long in the habit of training their vines over arbors, trellis- 
work, or with stakes, that it has come to be a settled pre- 
judice, as well as practice, to consider the vine as unable 
to stand alone, or to be successfully cultivated without 
some or all of these accessories, notwithstanding the expen- 



114 PRUNING AND 

sive nature of many of them ; and this, too, in the face of 
the well known facts that in nearly all the most extensive 
and model vineyards of Europe, where viniculture has 
become a practical science, and a leading element in the 
productions of the world, all such useless appendages and 
accessories have been discarded and ignored, and the vine 
been made to stand alone and unsupported, and bring forth 
its beautiful clusters of luscious fruit without the extra- 
neous aid of stake or trellis. 

Mode of Trimming in Malaga. — In passing among the 
vineyards of Malaga, in the month of April, the appearance 
of the vines was most singular, especially to us, who had 
been accustomed to see vines trained to a trellis or stakes ; 
as these Malaga vines, having been trimmed back close, 
leaving only three or four spurs on the stock or stump, 
which was scarcely a foot in height, the young shoots were 
springing up from the spurs of the previous year's growth, 
forming a rounded head of foliage, resembling, a little way 
off, hills of tomatoes or beans ; they were about four feet 
apart each way, and extending far up on the hill-side plan- 
tations. 

But this close trimming is necessary, to ensure the choice 
rich fruit for which Malasja is so celebrated. 

The Mode of Trimming in Morocco is somewhat differ- 
ent. There they let the vines trail on the ground, trim- 
ming off only the lateral shoots, leaving the main branches 
to grow ad infinitum. They do not, of course, get as fine 
grapes by this means, but the Moors are not very par- 
ticular on that score, although, when they occupied Anda- 
lusia, they were among the most skilful and successful 
horticulturists in the world. 

We may describe these vineyards of Malaga and of the 
Moors more particularly in another part of this work. 



AFTER-CULTURE. 115 



THE VINE MUST BE TRIMMED, AND HOW. 

The vine will produce fruit, without any trimming or 
pruning, as we see by the multitudes of wild vines that 
festoon the lofty forest trees in our primeval woods ; but 
the wild Fox or the Scuppernong will hardly compare with 
the noble clusters of delicious grapes that are found on the 
dwarfed vines of our gardens and vineyards. As another 
writer has tersely said, the aim of the pruning should be 
the forming of wood for the coming year, and the forming 
of fruit in the present. 

It is clear that some system of trimming must be adopted ; 
and what shall it be? This, as has truly been said, is 
another Gordian knot. On this subject Dr. Strentzel 
remarks : many persons, basing their assertions on experi- 
ence, declare that it is injurious to check the natural 
growth of plants, especially the vine, as it tends to curtail 
their longevity and deteriorate the quality of the fruit; 
that by curtailing the length of the growing canes we 
destroy the balance of power between them and the roots, 
and that the vine must eventually perish from that cause. 
Others, again, in extremis^ advise to nearly denude the 
vine of foliage and take oif the principal growth of wood. 
Now, to these it is hardly necessary to answer — though 
the proceeding, once tried, is an experience dearly bought. 
So we take the responsibility of advising all new beginners 
not to follow it. 

It is not so with the first class. Now we assert that 
judicious trimming is indispensable to the production of 
fine fruit, to which, probably, the experience of most 
cultivators will assent ; but we further assert that there 
cannot be a balance of power lost, because the growth of 



IIG PRUNING AND 

roots is governed by the growth of the branches, and by 
curtailing the superfluous wood, we obtain an extra supply 
of nourishment for the fruit, or for new wood, as the case 
may be. 

Mr. Flint in one of his prize essays, makes the following 
observations on this subject, in which we concur in the 
main. 

After years of experiment (says Mr. F.), the writer finds 
that the best mode of training the grape in California is to 
form the heads of the vines within from six to twelve 
inches of the ground, allowing a greater number of branches 
to grow as they attain age. It will be seen that this plan 
saves the cost of stakes, and the labor of tying up the 
vines. But its greatest advantages are, that this low or 
horizontal pruning induces a more equal distribution of the 
sap, so that the buds break equally strong their entire length, 
and the foliage shelters the grapes from the scorching sun, 
and affords a blanket at night to keep the warmth of the 
earth around the grapes. The vines, also, by spreading 
out over the land near the surface, act as a sort of mulch- 
ing, which greatly aids in the retention of moisture. A 
marked difference can be observed in the size, flavor and 
time of ripening, of grapes of the same sorts when trained 
high, or low, as those produced near the ground under the 
shelter of ample foliage, will be ripe two weeks earlier, and 
of far higher flavor, as there is no interruption in the elabo- 
ration of the leaf juices which become their dewy nectar, 
as the leaves near the surface are not chilled, while those 
exposed to the circulation of the cold night air receive 
periodical checks, which cannot but result unfavorably to 
the fruit. 

Much injury is done the vine by injudicious summer 
pruning, as it checks the swelling of the grapes until new 



AFTER-CULTUEE. , 117 

foliage has grown out. It must be kept in mind that the 
grape gets most of its food from the vine leaf; therefore, 
as this is despoiled, the grape proportionally suffers. Then, 
the denuding the vine of its foliage, hazards the fruit to the 
danger of sun-scald. If the vine has been planted in proper 
soil, and not unduly stimulated by irrigation, it will make 
no more growth than the demands of the swelling grapes 
upon its foliage require ; but if on moist, rich soil, or exces- 
sively irrigated, the canes will be long jointed, with poorly 
developed buds, for the succeeding year's fruit bearing. 
This defect can be remedied, to some extent, by what is 
termed innching in. This may be performed at any time 
while the vine is in a growing condition, in this wise : Take 
the soft, succulent end of the shoot, between the thumb 
and end of the forefinger, closing the nails together with a 
quick motion, when the vine will snap off. Breaking the 
vine where it is succulent, allows the sap to flow towards 
the end of the vine, for some time, all the while becoming 
gradually stopped in its course, which has the effect of 
forcing portions of it into the buds near the old wood. 
These buds are the ones to become bearing shoots, and are 
by this process strengthened and enlarged, in consequence 
of the descending sap being thrown back upon them by the 
stoppage of its flow upwards, caused by pinching. If the 
vine had been shortened by trimming, the knife would 
naturally strike where the wood had become hardened, and 
the amputation being in the vicinity of matured buds, these 
would receive the upward flow of sap, and break at once 
into wood branches, thus continuing the scarcely inter- 
rupted action of the sap vessels. 

Mr. Flint, also, in another able paper on the subject of 
grape culture, in the Report of the Department of Agri- 
culture for 1863, says: 



118 PRUNING AND 

In a dry climate, like that of California, where it becomes 
an object to shade the ground, I find that close planting 
is best, if a system of pruning is adopted in accordance. 
The best managed vineyard I have ever seen, is that of Mar- 
tin Allioff, Coloma, Eldorado County, California. There 
are in this vineyard some thirty thousand vices, largely 
comprising Black Burgundy, Catawba and several Hun- 
garian varieties. The land slopes to the northwest, and is 
a decomposed granite. The vines are set in rows, six feet 
apart by three feet, and are pruned to low heads which 
are formed but a few inches above the ground. The pru- 
ning which is practised is that known as the annual 
renewal system. Few canes are allowed to bear, but 
these are permitted to have from two to four bunches 
of grapes to the cane, according to the age and strength 
of the vine. 

The practice of Mr. Alhoff accords with my own expe- 
rience, which long since convinced me that the best fla- 
vored and largest bunches of grapes were always to be 
found on those vines which had their bearing branches 
nearest to the ground. 

Thp best time of year in which to trim the vine back for 
bearing, has been a subject of a great difference of opinion 
among vine growers. My experience teaches me that if 
the object be to obtain a strong growth of wood, the vine 
should be cut back soon after the fall of the leaves late in 
autumn. By this course" the buds nearest the ends of the 
spurs will be stimulated by the first flow of sap in the 
spring, and the new canes grow with accelerated vigor 
by having received the entire force of the early ascending 
sap. But if the object be to obtain grapes, late spring 
trimming is always most favorable, as by permitting the 
strong and copious first flow of sap to pass along and be- 



AFTEE-CFLTUEE. 119 

come distributed among the terminal branches, the buds, 
which are the reliance for fruit-bearing, remain dormant 
until all danger of frost or chilling winds shall have 
passed, when, on cutting the vine back to the proper place, 
these buds will throw out large vigorous fruit-spurs, and 
the entire vine get uniformly into bloom. I have never 
yet discovered any injury to the vine and the grape crop 
by what is termed the bleeding of the vine by reason 
of late spring amputations ; but, on the contrary, believe 
that not only is the vine exempted from the late spring 
frosts by such practice, but that it is not likely to suffer 
from mildew, when this time of trimming is adopted. I 
have frequently deferred trimming until the ends of the 
vine had expanded the foliage so that the shoots were 
starting; but these same vines ripened their grapes quite 
as early as any in the vineyard which were trimmed at an 
earlier season, and the grapes on the late pruned vines 
were almost always fairer, and the bunches larger than on 
those which were dressed by the vintner in the Fall. 

The Stockton Independent has the following in reference 
to trimming grape-vines after the fruit is set : About the 
time the grapes grow to be the size of peas, the stone or 
fruit begins to harden. While this work is going on the 
berries usually gain but little in size, and for a term of ten 
days or a fortnight stand apparently still. The vines, at 
this time, are supposed by many intelligent cultivators, to 
be performing their hardest work-^that of maturing the 
seed, which is really the proper fruit of every plant. 
During the season when the vine is maturing its seed 
many contend that the knife should not be used on its 
branches, as shortening its branches at this time has an 
injurious effect upon the fruit, inasmuch as it sends a flow 
of sap to the berries when they are not in a state fitted to 



120 



PP.ITNI^^G AND 



receive it. The result of pruning or checking the shoots 
at this season may be frequently observed by the berries 
bursting and the seed sticking out at the side. Those 
who manage growing vines under glass in the Eastern 
States and Eastern countries carefully avoid pruning much, 
if any at all, between the time the berries stop the first 
swelling and commence the second. It will be observed 
as a general thing that as soon as the stony part of the 
seed becomes hard and brittle the fruit will take a sudden 
start in swelling, and so continue until it reaches the full 
size and commences to color, the first degree of the ripen- 
ing process. It will also be observed by practical culti- 
vators that grapes are seldom liable to mildew after they 
begin to ripen. 

Low Pruning preferred. Colonel Haraszthy says : After 
several experiments, made on a large scale with vines 
pruned high and staked, and with vines pruned close to 
the ground, we have become convinced that low pruning, 
close to the ground, is the better mode in California; it 
gives better grajDes, and ripens them a fortnight sooner. 
In consequence of these experiments, I left ofi", some years 
ago, high pruning and staking. My travels in Europe 
have proved to me the correctness of my experiments. 
There is but one view, that the closer you can keep the 
grapes to the ground the better they are. It would not 
do, however, to let the bunches lie on the ground, as the 
summer rains would rot them ; but in California and the 
South of Spain the grapes may and do lie on the ground, 
and on that account are sweeter. 

Mr. Detten says the body of the vine should never get 
over one foot above the ground. 

No Staking or Irrigation Necessary. We have shown 
that no staking of the vines is necessary, in vineyard cul- 



AFTER-CULTURE. 12] 

ture; and we now propose to show more directly than we 
yet have done, that no irrigation is necessary. 

Mr. Flint says : It was thought until recently, that the 
vine would require irrigation in California, in order to be 
able to mature its fruit. This notion is being rapidly 
exploded, because it is proved that where the soil is kept 
in friable condition by cultivation until after the close of 
the rainy season, the vine will make a sufficient growth of 
wood and foliage to mature the fruit, and furnish bearing 
canes for the succeeding crop of grapes. 

The Buena Vista Yinicultural Society's managers say: 
No staking or training is required. They are planted iu 
rows from three and a half to four and a half feet apart, 
each way, and are cultivated by Chinese laborers in the 
manner known as the flat way of cultivating Indian corn 
in the Eastern States. 

Dr. Strentzel says : Irrigation, with a few exceptional 
cases, is most injurious, in vineyard culture. 

This, we believe, is the opinion and practice of the most 
successful and experienced vine growers in California ; and 
it is not necessary in this place to multiply authorities. 
Even in planting cuttings, or new young vines, it is not 
necessary, if planted when the ground is moist. 



SUMMARY or PRUNING OPERATIONS. 

We may sum np the operations of pruning for the first 
few years of the new vineyard thus : 

First year. Ko pruning necessary during the summer. 

When the buds begin to push into growth, select the 

stronger and rub the oLliers off; a bud near the ground is 

preferable to one that is a foot above. In the autumn, if 

6 



122 PET7NING AND 

the vines are intended to furnish layers, they should be 
pruned with reference to that ; leaving two strong thrifty 
lateral branches, right and left of the rows, near the ground, 
for the layers, and one good healthy cane for the main 
vine ; the latter to be cut back to two buds. 

Second year. At the usual time, in the autumn, cut 
back the main cane to two buds again ; take off, also, the 
lateral shoots on the layer-branches, excepting two or three 
near the ends, or, perhaps, it would be better to remove 
them, as you would suckers, during the summer, letting 
the layers run on until they shall become five or six feet in 
length, when they are to be laid down to make the addi- 
tional rows, one on each side of the old row, as per Dia- 
gram A, p. 86. 

Third year. As early as April, the ground having been 
previously prepared, the trenches made eight or ten inches 
deep, with a spade, as previously suggested ; let the two 
layers "from each vine now be put down, to make the addi- 
tional rows parallel to, and four feet from, the original 
rows ; all the buds of the layers, saving two or three at 
the end of the layer, and two or three more, at the bend, 
where it is to take root, having been rubbed off, to prevent 
their sprouting between the rows ; and to be put thus deep 
to allow a very small cultivator-plough to pass between the 
rows, without disturbing the layers ; six inches deep will 
be sufficient for the furrows to be made. Let these layer- 
heads now to become standards or canes themselves, to 
propagate other layers from, be cultivated during the 
season in the same manner as the original standard vines ; 
all other suckers, or supei-fluous shoots, save those intended 
for the next year's layers and for standards, to be trimmed 
or pinched off as they appear. If this be thoroughly done 
there will be but little pruning to do in the autumn, 



AFrER-CULTUEE, 123 

excepting to cut back the main stems to three or four buds, 
as before. It should be borne in mind that fruit buds grow 
upon the same branches but once. Some fruit will doubt- 
less be produced this year from the layers as well as from 
the main vines. 

Fourth^ Fifth a7id Sixth Years. Same process to be 
pursued, as in the third, only, in these years, but one layer 
is to be made from each layer-head of the previous year ; 
and each succeeding year, the layer-branch, connecting, 
under ground, the layer-head with the main vine, to be cut 
off, with a sharp spade or other suitable instrument, as 
shown at d, d^ in Fig. 2 (p. 91) ; or, if in the way, they 
may be cut off nearer the main vine, in two places. 

After the sixth year, the layers having covered the whole 
vineyard with vines, four feet apart, the further process of 
pruning, suckering, etc., will go on, as in an ordinary vine- 
yard. 

Summer Pruning. Dr. Strentzel speaks thus of the 
necessity, under certain circumstances, of summer pruning: 
The renewal mode of spur-pruning is especially adapted 
for vineyard culture in California, and this requires, par- 
ticularly, persistent summer pruning. It should be com- 
menced by pinching the topmost bud as soon as the canes 
have grown two leaves above the topmost raceme or 
blossom. This will strengthen and develop the wood at 
the base of the cane, and prevent their breaking by heavy 
wind. This is the time to remove all suckers, leaving only 
the desired number of the strongest canes. With the 
advancing growth the process is again repeated on the 
new topmost shoots ; then the laterals will expand. These 
should be shortened above the third leaf [With the 
exception of those intended for layers, the Doctor would 
doubtless have added, if he had had that process in mind, 



124 PRUNING AND 



1 



when writing this article. — Author.] As in vineyard cul- 
ture it is almost impracticable to perform the work in the 
exact necessary time, the overgrown cane tops can be 
rapidly shortened in with a knife, with the precaution to 
spare three or four leaves above the fruit, which will leave 
the length of canes about three feet. The process will 
have to be repeated when the new growth requires it, but 
with this caution, not to destroy the old, fully grown 
leaves, and each new (surplus) shoot to be cut above the 
topmost grown leaf. 

On this subject Col. Haraszthy Says : The native Cali- 
fornians never used to prune vines in the summer, but let 
them grow any length they pleased. This is erroneous. 
Every person on reflection, can at once see that the sap 
required to grow and produce vines ten, and often twenty 
feet long, maybe better used if it is forced into the grapes. 
Undoubtedly the berries and bunches will be larger if 
moderately trimmed; besides, this trimming is a great 
advantage when the grapes are gathered, as the picking is 
so much easier than in an untrimmed vineyard, where 
everything is tangled up. The best mode is to cut the tops 
of the vines to the height of five or six feet from the ground, 
in the month of July for the first time, and the second 
time in the middle of August. This operation is done 
easily, and pretty quick. One man with a sickle tops off 
about two thousand five hundred a day. Besides the 
above-named advantages, there is one more, viz. : when 
the top is cut off, everywhere small vines will spring out 
and form dense leaves on the ends of the vines, keeping 
the grapes growing underneath in a moderate shade, and 
making them thus more tender, juicy and sweet. It is 
therefore a great mistake, practiced often by new comers 
from modern Europe, that they will break out the so-called 



AFTEE-CULTirEE. 125 

suckers; that is, little branches starting out behind the 
leaf, and growing feebly np to the length of a few inches. 
These, in the northern parts of Europe, are broken up, but 
not in Italy, Greece, Smyrna, etc. 

It will have been seen that Mr. Flint does not fully con- 
cur in the views of the authorities just quoted in his advo- 
cacy of summer pruning. Mr. F., however, agrees to the 
pinching process, and thinks it necessary. 

As to these two seemingly conflicting opinions, we think: 
the difference is more imaginary than real. There may be 
cases in which the summer pruning of the vine, as, for 
example, in vineyards where there is but a moderate, scanty 
growth of the canes and laterals, would be not only un- 
necessary, but absolutely injurious. 

On the other hand, where there is a redundancy, a ram- 
pant growth of wood, a slight trimming of the luxuriant 
shoots, or a thorough system of pinching in may not only 
be beneficial but necessary to the perfect development and 
maturing of the fruit, and the future health and prosperity 
of the vine. But in all cases, where summer pruning is 
deemed necessary, it should be done with the utmost care, 
that it be not overdone ; and furthermore that it be not 
done at all when the fruit is forming its stone, that an extra 
flow of sap be not forced upon the fruit when it is thus not 
in a proper state to receive it. 

Very little summer pruning will be necessary if the re- 
dundant suckers be removed at the proper time, and the 
pinching in process be properly carried out. A writer in 
a late number of the Country Gentleman, has the following 
summing up on this subject: The useless buds should be 
removed and the fruiting shoots stopped at a period of 
their growth when the finger and thumb are sufhcient for 
the work, and hence it should be a rule with every vine- 



126 PRimiKG AND 

dresser that any summer pruning which requires a knife 
shall be left undone. 

Modes of Pruning and Training the Vine at the East, 
At a meeting of the New York Fruit-Growers Club the 
principal matter discussed was the pruning of grape vi?ies, 
by A. S. Fuller, with examples. With a yearling vine he 
showed how to clip the roots to prepare them for planting, 
leaving none over fifteen or eighteen inches, because it is 
important to get fibrous roots started near the main trunk. 
In planting, if in Autumn, set the roots about four inches 
deep, leaving the cane a foot or two long, which should be 
cut away in the Spring level with the earth. Grow but 
one cane the first year, which — of strong growing sorts — 
will reach ten feet in length. Cut this cane down to four 
eyes in November and allow the two lower ones to grow 
next Spring, and train them upright. These two canes are 
to be cut back in November to about five feet, and next 
Spring are to be bent down in opposite directions, and each 
shortened to four feet and tied to stakes or wires or slats 
of a trellis, to grow fruit-bearing canes. Plants being set 
just eight feet apart, the ends of arms from each will meet 
and fill all the space. If the vines are of the short-jointed 
varieties every other bud may grow, and every one upon 
long joints, thiis giving five or six uprights to each arm. 
The third year from planting, each upright may ripen two 
bunches, say twenty four bunches to a vine. Next March 
cut back each upright to two buds and grow two canes. 
Afterwards cut the upper one of these two, and so on of 
others, entirely away, and cut back the lower to two buds, 
which are to grow two new canes. This keeps the bear- 
ing wood down to a low head, the arms being trained to 
any height desired. 

A well established vine will produce 50 to 75 bunches a 



ATTER-CULTURE. 127 

year upon a trellis only four feet liigb, which allows rows 
to be set six feet apart, or nearer upon very valuable land. 
Some prefer arms three feet long and a two tier trellis. 

After the fruit is set, stop the growth of the canes at the 
third leaf above the upper cluster of fruit. 

The cheapest and best way to make a trellis is by nail- 
ing light slats to light posts, with light upright wires be- 
tween the slats at each cane. These wires should be gal- 
vanized. With tender sorts which it is desirable to lay 
down in winter, his process would be to incline a single arm 
at an angle of 45 degrees, and spur prune as in the double 
arm system. They can be readily laid down and covered 
in winter. We have thus, we think, been minute enough 
in our directions, and ample enough in our production of 
authorities, to enable even the beginner or novice to un- 
derstand the best modes for planting, cultivating, pruning 
and managing his vineyard. And the experienced vini- 
culturists will doubtless find our collection, condensation, 
comparison and digest of the many authorities on this sub- 
ject, a matter of convenience and interest to them, even if 
any original suggestions we may have made should fail to 
impress them with new ideas. There are many systems of 
i2.n.Q,j pruning and training, which may do very well in 
gardens and small vineyards, but are too expensive for 
large ones. The Thomery system is one of the prettiest, 
perhaps, of any regular plan that has been proposed. But 
it needs cuts to illustrate it properly. 

GRAPE HINTS FOE THE VIjSTTAGER. 

The Gardener's Monthly says : Grapes coming in bear- 
ing should not be permitted to perfect large crops of fruit 
while young. It is excusable to fruit a bunch or so on a 



128 PRUNING AND 

young vine, "just to test the kind," but no more should be 
permitted till the vine has age and strength. Vigorous 
grovi^th, and great productiveness, are tlie antipodes of the 
vegetable world. Encourage as much foliage as possible 
on the vines, and aim to have as strong shoots at the base 
as at the top of the cane, this can be done by pinching out 
the points of the strong shoots after they have made a 
growth of :five or six leaves. This will make the weak 
ones grow stronger. Young vines grow much faster over 
a twiggy branch, stuck in for support, than over a straight 
Btick as a trellis, and generally do better every way. 
Where extra fine bunches of grapes are desired, pinch back 
the shoot bearing them about four or five inches above the 
bunch. This should not be done indiscriminately with all 
the bunches. Too much pinching and stopping injures the 
production of good wood for the next season. 

These hints are for amateurs, who have a few vines in 
trellises; for large vineyard culture, though the same 
principles hold good, so far as they go, they will vary in 
their application. 

William Saunders says he holds two undeniable facts in 
grape culture : 1st, that the best fruit is produced on the 
strongest and best ripened shoots ; and 2d, that the shoots 
produced from spurs never mature so thoroughly as those 
produced from terminal buds. Farther, that properly 
ripened fruit will never be produced from unrij^ened wood. 
Fruit apparently well colored may be seen on green 
growths, but such fruit does not possess the characteris- 
tics of a well-ripened bunch of grapes. 

Save your Cuttings. It is scarcely necessary to remind 
the vintager that he will find it to his interest to save all 
the cuttings of choice varieties which may be cut from his 
vines at trimming time. They will, in many cases, more 



AFTEE-CULTURE. 129 

than pay for tlie expense of pruning, as the best European 
varieties are still scarce, and will be, doubtless, for some 
years to come ; and they sell at remunerative prices. 
6* 



PART YIII. 

BEST VAEIETIES OF GRAPES FOR A VINEYARD. 

1. For California. 2. For the States East and California. Importance 
of choosing the best varieties of grape for a Vineyard ; all foreign va- 
rieties succeed in California. Lists of the choicest varieties of Euro- 
pean grapes described and recommended for adoption in California. 
The chief varieties classified, with their various synonyms. Class 1. 
Describing the choicest varieties of foreign grapes of a white and yel- 
low color ; Malaga grapes, &c. Class 2. Those of a reddish, rose color, 
or striped. Class 3. Black or dark purple. Class 4. California varie- 
ties ; native varieties adapted to the States East and to California. 

I. For California. 

It matters not how fine a climate the viniculturist may- 
have, how good his soil, or site, nor how well his vineyard 
is planted and cultivated, if he have not the choicest varie- 
ties to start with, all his labor, care and expenditures will 
be lost, or comparatively so ; nor should he take up a cata- 
logue and make his selections at random, even from the 
best varieties in the list ; for grapes that are good in one 
locality and clime, may be worthless in another. He should 
study and thoroughly understand his own climate and the 
properties of his soil, and see how they compare with 
those of the country whence comes the variety of grape 
which he wishes to adopt, and see that they correspond. 
And then, again, he must -decide whether his vineyard is 
to be devoted to the growth of the wine grape or the table 



132 BEST VARIETIES OF 

grape, or for producing raisins ; or whether for one, or all 
of these, together. We know this is a most difficult task, 
under ordinary circumstances; and especially so in Cali- 
fornia, where so little time has elapsed since the first intro- 
duction of the choicest European varieties. But we shall 
endeavor to render such aid as we may be able to do, 
with the best practical experiences of the day, and the 
most intelligent authorities at hand. We do not expect to 
be able to give lists that shall be infallible, or that will ap- 
ply universally ; for a grape that will produce good wine, 
and be an excellent table grape in the Sacramento and San 
Joaquin Valleys may not be thus in Los Angeles, or Sonoma 
or Kapa even. But using the best lights of experience 
and observation that we have at command, we will proceed 
with our lists. It cannot be supposed that we shall be 
able to designate, definitely, what particular kind of grape 
is best suited to all localities in California ; we can only 
give the kinds best suited to the State generally ; and this, 
with the several districts best adapted for the particular 
kinds of vines, which will be found under the general 
heading of " Location, Site, etc.," for a vineyard, must be 
accepted as the best we have to offer. Nor can we, in all 
cases, designate, with accuracy, what varieties of grapes 
will be best for wine, and what best for the table, although 
we believe it ^vill be found, generally, that almost all kinds 
of grapes grown in California, will produce wines of a qua- 
lity more or less good. 

Of the many hundreds of different varieties of grapes 
produced in different parts of the world, we do not sup- 
pose that there is an average of ten out of an hundred that 
are worth cultivating at all. Mr. Fuller, an Eastern vini- 
culturist, says, that out of one hundred varieties of native 
grapes, he can name but three that he can recommend as 



GRAPES FOR A VIN^EYARD. 133 

certainly valuable for every body to grow. These are, he 
saySj the Concord, Hartford Prolific and Delaware. Hence 
the importance of great care in selecting varieties to start 
with. Mr. Wilson Flint very truly says : 

At the outset of planting a vineyard it is of the utmost 
importance to plant the most valuable kinds of grapes, as 
the difference in the cost of plants will, iti any event, be 
trifling, while the after value of a vineyard, when in full 
bearing, will be double or quadruple, if not more. 

Mr. Clement Detten, in a prize essay, from which we 
have already gathered many useful facts, gives the follow- 
ing list as the 



BEST KINDS OF GRAPES FOB CALIFORiaA. 

The California (Los Angeles), except that it ripens 
rather late in the season, I consider one of the best 
varieties for cultivation in this State, for the following 
reasons : 

1st. This vine grows better without irrigation than any 
European variety. 

2d. It is less liable to mildew, and when affected, more 
easily cured. 

3d. It makes a fine-bodied wine, which will keep. 

I think the California grape is disliked because we have 
so many of them, but feel assured that in a few years the 
public will have a different opinion of it. Of foreign 
varieties, I would recommend for cultivation in this State, 
of the kinds cultivated in the Eastern States, the Catawba 
and Isabella, neither, according to my observation, which, 
however has been limited, being liable to mildew. Of 



134 BEST VARIETIES OP 

European varieties, tliose which I consider most deserving 
of cultivation are: 

1st. The Black Hamburg, as one of the finest table 
grapes, and very good for mixing with other grapes in 
the manufacture of wine. 

2d. The Black July, as an early table wine. 

3d. The White Frontignan, as an early wine. 

4th. The Muscat of Alexandria, as a table grape, and 
for preserving in jars. 

5th. The Grizzly Frontignan, for table use and for wine. 

6th. The Chasselas de Fontainebleau, as a table grape 
and for wine. 
' ^th. The Traminer {Fromentean)^ as a wine grape. 

8th. The Black Frontignan, as a wine grape. 

9th. The Black Prince, as a fine table grape. 

10th. The Dutch Sweetwater, not a table grape, but 
very good for wine ; very tender, however, and liable to be 
affected by mildew. 

11th. The Black Burgundy {Pineau noir), as a good 
table grape, and excellent for wine. 

"We doubt if the remark of Mr. Detten, that the Mission 
grape is less liable to mildew than foreign varieties that 
^ave been introduced into California, is borne out by prac- 
tical experience. 

We have heard of no complaints, during the past two 
or three years, of any damage to the foreign varieties in 
this State, from mildew, or any other disease, unless, per- 
haps, in some isolated cases, where the vines were planted 
on rich adobe or bottom lands ; and, in such cases, we 
doubt if the European grapes would suffer any more se- 
verely than our native grapes, under similar circumstances. 
We have already spoken of the vineyard of Mr. Miller, 
of Pleasant Valley, Solano County, who, some years since, 



GEAPES FOR A VINEYARD. 135 

engrafted the best and most delicate varieties of the 
foreign grape upon his IMission grape stocks, with the 
utmost success, and that, too, while his vineyard is planted 
on valley land : nor do we think he has ever been troubled 
with mildew. And yet, in answer to our question, Mr. M. 
frankly admitted that he thought it a mistake to do away 
entirely with the Mission or native grape of California. 

Mr. Flint has the following practical remarks on this 
Bubject : — Every vintner should thoroughly canvass, before 
embarking in the business, as to which are the best kinds 
of grapes for wine. The Spanish Mission grape, which 
has already borne the test of eighty years of culture in the 
State, without one recorded season of failure, still main- 
tains its prominence, both as a dessert and wine grape. 
Indeed, by reason of its richness in grape sugar, the abund- 
ance of its juice, the evenness of its time of ripening, and 
the ample broad, thick foliage which enables it to withstand 
our dry, hot days, and during the succeeding cool nights 
absorb from the atmosphere an ample supply of moisture 
to feed its prodigious loads of fruit, places this variety 
almost without a par for extensive vineyard cultivation. 
Experiments, however, with many European sorts, indicate 
that varieties may be obtained which will supersede the 
Mission grape, by reason of their possessing a higher 
aroma, which shall give to wines made from them that 
great desideratum, " bouquet." Among the foreign sorts 
which already give evidence of great promise, is the 
Black Burgundy wine grape of France. Samples of wine 
made from this grape, grown in a number of distinct 
localities, were pronounced exceedingly rich, and there is 
no longer any question but that California will produce 
the celebrated Burgundy wines of an excellence far supe- 
rior to those grown in its native districts in France. In- 



136 BEST VARIETIES OF 

deed, for young wines, the samples of Burgundy shown 
at the State Fair were remarkable for their color, body, 
and delicacy of flavor. 

Oq the subject of the Catawba grape, Mr. Flint re- 
marks : — Among the wines on exhibition were also found 
the famous Catawba of America. It may seem super- 
fluous to sj^eak in commendation of the Catawba grape as 
a wine grape, but when its wine has already obtained a 
world-wide reputation, and this reputation may justly be 
increased rather than lessened by the improvement in the 
quality of this grape in our favorable climate, it becomes 
a matter of the highest importance to our vintners to in- 
quire as to the policy of making it a leading feature in 
California vine culture. A few reasons in favor of plant- 
ing the Catawba grape, for wine purposes, may be briefly 
stated. Catawba wine has already obtained a lasting 
popularity. This grape will grow at a higher altitude in 
our mountains, and not suffer by frost, than any other 
wine grape. It also will flourish within the sweep of 
the cold ocean winds and fogs, unaffected by mildew. 
Finally, no other grape possesses so many elements for a 
wine of commerce, because its individuality of flavor is 
rather increased by age than lessened. It also will be an 
invaluable grape to mix with the Mission grape, to give 
the wines of the latter what they are most deficient in — 
bouquet and flavor. 

Objections are made to this grape because it is not as 
proHfic a bearer as the Mission grape ; but when it becomes 
known that the Catawba never fails to produce a crop in 
all situations and seasons, and besides, when wines shall 
have become cheap, it will then be an object to grow such 
kinds as will make a high-priced wine for the deficit in 
quantity, and be more than compensated by quality and 



GEAPES FOR A VINEYARD. 137 

the lessened cost of labor in handling, cooperage and 
storage. 

Tins commendation by Mr. Flint, of the Catawba, is 
pretty emphatic, and seems somewhat extravagant. 

The list furnished by Mr. Detten is evidently incomplete 
in many respects. He does not name all the varieties, even, 
that have been tested and found to be a success in Califor- 
nia ; as, for instance, the Black Morocco, Rose of Peru, the 
Feher Szagos or Zagos, the famous raisin grai)e, the Lom- 
bardy or Reine de Nice, etc. In fact, we believe all the 
choicest and most delicate varieties of the foreign grape 
will succeed in California. We propose, therefore, to give 
a full list of the most esteemed varieties of European 
grapes, so that the vinegrower can select for himself. For 
convenience of reference, we have divided them into three 
classes, classifying them according to color ; the native 
varieties being under the head of Class Four. Where we 
are not familiar with a variety in the following lists, we 
have generally adopted Dowuing's descriptions, etc., as 
very reliable ; also, in some cases, those of a work by 
W. C. Strong, lately pubHshed in Boston, and other relia- 
ble authorities. 



Class 1. 
Grapes loith White or Yellow Fruit. 

1. BOWKER. 

A seedling from a Malaga raisin, raised by Joel Bowker, 
of Salem, Mass., resembling the Lisbon grape, but superior. 
The bunch is large, closely set, with large, oval, white 



138 BEST VARIETIES OP 

berries of fair quality. It is very productive, and, accord- 
ing to Strong, equal in appearance to the White Hamburg. 
It has been tried with success in California. 



2. BowooD Muscat. 

An excellent new kind ; shorter-jointed than the Muscat 
of Alexandria, having all its good qualities, and also the 
advantage of setting its fruit freely. 



3. Cannon Hall Muscat. 

A stronger variety than Muscat of Alexaudria, both in 
growth and size of fruit. The berries are of the largest 
size, oval and white. This, also, succeeds well in CaUfornia. 



4. Charlesworth Tokay. Tliomp. 

Reputed to be of superior quality. Bunches long and 
compact ; berries large, oval. Skin thick and white. Fla- 
vor rich and delicious, with a Muscat perfume. 



5. Chasselas Musque. Thomp. Downing. 

Musk Chasselas : Le Cour. 

Described as a very delicious grape, the highest flavored 
Chasselas, having much of the flavor of the Muscat of 
Alexandria. Description : bunches of medium size, long 
and rather loose ; berries middle size, round ; skin thin, 
yellowish white ; flesh tender, with an abundant juice, of 



GRAPES FOR A VINEYARD. 139 

a rich, musky flavor. Leaves smaller and deeper green 
than those of the Sweetwater or Muscadine. 



6. Decon's Superb. 

Bunches of good size and handsome ; berries of a frosted 
amber color, and of good size. It is grown in California, 
to some extent, and considered a pvetty fair grape. 

7. Duchess op Buccleugh. 

A new grape, said to be a cross between the Chasselas 
Musque and a Muscat, and of the highest flavor ; bunches 
large and long, tapering, slightly shouldered; is early, bears 
well, and does not crack. 

8. Early White Malvoise. Thomp, Downing. 

Morna Chasselas: Early Chasselas: Grove End Sweet- 
water : White Melier : 

A fine early grape, and a good bearer, and is considered 
only an early variety of the Chasselas. Bunches, in size 
and form, similar to those of the White Chasselas or 
Royal Muscadine. Berries round, yellowish white; skin 
thin; flesh sweet, juicy and agreeable in flavor; ripens in 
August. Leaves pale green on the upper side, slightly 
downy below, cut into fine, rather deep lobes. We have 
seen fine samples of these in California; some from San 
Jose, raised, we presume, on rich valley land, were very 
juicy and of sub-acid flavor. 



140 best varieties of 

9. Foster's Seedling. 

Exhibited in England in 1865, and described as having 
large bunches ; berries medium, of a pale amber color ; 
flesh juicy, luscious, and refreshing, equalling the flavor of 
Lady downes, and, like it, hanging without shriveling. 

10. Golden Hamburg. 

A fine new white grape ; bunches large and shouldered ; 
berries large, oval; pale yellow; skin thin; flesh tender, 
rich vinous ; very free and showy ; ripening with, and a 
fine contrast to, the Black Hamburg. 

11. ,Macreadt's Early. 

Bunches of medium size, compact ; berries white, trans- 
parent, oval, pointed; skin thin; very melting and juicy; 
a fine little grape. 

12. Malaga Grapes. 

muscatel : larga : bloom : loja ; peroximen". 

People are in the habit of speaking of " the Malaga 
grape," as though there were only one prominent kind. 
There are at least fifty varieties, more or less esteemed ; 
the Muscatel, Larga, or Bloom, Loja and Peroximen, are 
among the- most highly prized ; the first three for raisins, 
and the latter for wine ; all good table grapes also. We 
have some of these varieties, more or less mixed up in this 



GPwAPES FOE A VIXEYARD. 141 

country, under the various names of Muscats, Frontignans, 
&c. They will all do well in California. The Larga pro- 
duces what is called the Bloom raisin ; and we are of 
opinion that it is the same as that cultivated in this State 
by Mr. Bugbey and others, under the name of Feher 
Szagos or Zagos ; but we may be mistaken. 



13. Maughioness of Hastings. 

A new grape, now attracting much attention at the 
English exhibitions ; of a greenish white color, the bunches 
being very large, weighing five pounds. 



14. PiTMASTON White Clustee. 

A hardy grape, grown in England, from the Black 
Cluster, ripening somewhat earlier than the Sweetwater ; 
of good quality. 

Bunches of medium size, compact and shouldered ; ber- 
ries middle sized, round; skin thin, amber color, some- 
times tinged with a little russet when fully ripe. Flesh 
tender, juicy, sweet and excellent. 



15. RoTAL Muscadine. Thomp.. Lind, Mill. Downing. 

Amber Muscadine : Early White Teneriffe : Golden Chas- 
selas : White Chasselas : Chasselas dore : Chasselas 
blanc : Chasselas de Fontainebleau : D'Arbois : Kaisin 
de Champagne : Amiens. 

This is the grape that Mr. Detten and others call the* 



142 BEST VAEIETIES OF 

Chasselas de Fontainebleau, which is only one of the 
synonyms of the Royal Muscadine, as will be seen above. 

It is truly a fine grape, and succeeds well in California. 
We had some excellent specimens of this fruit sent us by 
Mr. Miller, of Pleasant Valley, on the 15th August. It 
ripens in California about 1st Aug. 

Bunches large and well shouldered ; berries round, and 
nearly as large as the Sweetwater ; skin thin, at first greenish 
white, turning to a light amber color when ripe. Flesh 
tender, and of a rich delicious flavor. It ripens here nearly 
two months earlier than in the Eastern States. 



16. Scotch White Cltjstee. Tliomp. Downing, 

Blacksmith's White Cluster. 

We do not know as this has been grown to any extent 
in this country, but in England it has the reputation of 
being hardy, very early, and a great bearer. 

Bunches of middle size, compact ; berries of medium size, 
roundish oval ; skin white, thin ; flesh tender, juicy, sweet, 
and excellent. 

lY. Syeian. Thomp. Lind. Speech. Downing, 

Jews. 

This, says Downing, is believed to be the grape men- 
tioned in the Scriptures, as found by the Israelites on the 
Brook of Eshcol, the bunches of which were so large as to 



GEAPES FOR A VINEYAED. 143 

be "borne on a staff by two men. It is a very superb look- 
ing fruit, and has been grown in this country to very large 
size. In England, bunches of it have been produced 
weighing 19^ pounds. It is not, however, considered 
equal in quality to the White Muscat of Alexandria. 

Bunches enormously large, and regularly formed, with 
broad shoulders ; berries large, oval ; skin thick, white at 
first, but becoming a tawny yellow or amber, when at full 
maturity. Flesh firm and solid, moderately juicy and, 
sweet, though not rich. The wood and foliage are very 
large. It will hang till Christmas in a vinery ; it is grown 
to some extent in California. A specimen cluster of this va- 
riety, grown by Mr. M. R. Miller in his vineyard in Pleasant 
Valley, the past season, and sent to an Editor in Suisun, 
weighed near six pounds, and was of delicious flavor. 
Bunches of the Syrian have been produced in this country, 
we believe, measuring two feet in length, and weiofhJnsf 
some 15 pounds. 



18. Trebbiana. 

This is one of the largest Exhibition grapes, the bunches 
frequently weighing eight pounds. It resembles the 
Syrian, but is distinct, and of better quality ; berries, 
large, white, oval, firm, and keep well. 



19. Yerdelho. Thomp. Ziind. Downing, 
Verdal : Verdilhio : Madeira Wine Grape. 
A vigorous growing grape from Madeira, wmch is 



]44 BEST VARIETIES OF 

largely used in that island for making the best Madeira 
wines. 

Bunches rather small, loose. Berries small, rather 
unequal in size, and often without seeds ; skin ti.'n, semi- 
transparent, yellowish green, a little tinged with russet 
when very ripe. Juice a little acid at first, but rich ani 
excellent at maturity. 



20. White Cokinth. 

A small white seedless grape, in compact clusters, of 
sweet and pleasant flavor. This is the grape from which 
the stoneless or Sultana raisins are produced. It originated 
in Greece, and is supposed to owe its seedless character to 
the circumstance of being produced from very old treo5 or 
vines. 



21. White Frontignan. Thomp. Downing, 

White Constantia : White Frontinac : Nepean's Constan- 
tia : Muscat Blanc : Raisin de Front ignan : Muscat 
Blanc de Jura : Moschata Bianca : Moscado Bianco : 
Moscatel Coramun : Muscateller : Wiesser Muscateller : 
Weisse Muscaten Traube. 

The White Frontignan, says Downing, is a very favor- 
ite grape, as the many names quoted above, by which it is 
known in various parts of Europe, sufficiently prove. Its 
hardy habit, uniform productiveness in the vinery, and 
most luscious flavor, make it everywhere esteemed. 

i^unclies of medium size, or pretty long, and without 
shoulders. Berries middle sized, roand, rather thickiy set, 



GRAPES FOR A VINEYARD. 145 

stin thin, dull white or yellow, covered with a thin bloom. 
Flesh tender, with a rich, sugary, perfumed, musky flavor. 



22. White Gascoigne. 

Bunches large, compact, shouldered ; berries large and 
oval ; quality good. 



23. "White Hamburg. Thomp. Downing. 
White Lisbon : White Portugal : White Raisin. 

This is the grape of commerce, exported from Portugal, 
in such large quantities, to various parts of the world, put 
up in jars, boxes, etc. It resembles the White Malaga in 
many particulars. 

Bunches laro;e and loose, sometimes weisfhino; three 
pounds ; berries oval and large ; skin thick, greenish 
white. Flesh solid, sweet, sometimes having a slight 
Muscat flavor. We believe this succeeds well in Cali- 
fornia. 



24. White Muscat of Alexandria. Thomp. Lind. Dow7i. 

Fi.-ontinac of Alexandria: Jerusalem Muscat: Malaga: 
White Muscat : Tottenham Park Muscat : White Mus- 
cat of Lunel : Lunel : Muscat d'Alexandria : Passe- 
longue Musque : Passe Musque : Bebibo, (of Sicily.) 

This is a most delicious, superb grape, and grows finely 
in California. The bunches are of a good size, weighing 
one, two, three, and sometimes five pounds, growing some- 
7 



146 BEST VARIETIES OF 

what loose and irregular ; berries large, oval, slightly ob- 
long in form, in some instances nearly an inch in diameter ; 
skin rather thick, light green color, approaching an amber, 
when fully ripe ; flesh firm and crisp, with a rich, musky 
perfumed flavor, very delicious. Mr. Thompson considers 
this the same as the Malaga grape ; and to us it has the 
appearance of being the same that we often met with in 
the Mediterranean, about Cadiz and Malaga and Gibraltar. 
This is the kind of which we have spoken elsewhere, as 
having been raised by Mr. Miller of Solano County, who 
obtained from the fruit of two thousand vines, the third 
year from planting, $3,000. This year (1866) he had a 
very fine crop. They were ripe early in July, and are in 
market into November. Superb specimens of this same 
kind of fruit, were sent us from the vineyard of Messrs. 
S. W. and O. B. Shaw, of Sonoma ; but they ripen several 
weeks later in Sonoma than in Pleasant Valley. The 
Shaws train their vines to stakes ; Mr. Miller does not, but 
trims them in to short, round heads. The only objection 
we see to this grape is, that it has a somewhat hard pulp ; 
but on this very account it will, we think, make a good 
raisin grape. Speaking of this grape, a committee of one 
of our State Fairs say : Any grape can be dried so as to 
give it the character, in outward appearance, of the raisin 
of commerce ; but it is not every grape that will cure so as 
to be even an approach to the Malaga raisin. The only 
grape which has as yet been dried in this State so as to 
become a raisin at all resembling the Malaga raisin, is the 
White Muscat of Alexandria. This grape, after being 
dried, has the same color and soft pulpy body and rich 
aromatic flavor which so eminently distinguish the raisins 
of Malaga. It is true, that any kind of grape, when dried, 
will be valuable for cooking purposes; but soft-fleshed 



GKAPES FOR A YINETAED. 147 

grapes shrivel away to such an extent that when properly 
cured there is little left of them but skin and bones. On 
soft-fleshed grapes from one-third to three-quarters of 
their weight shrinks away under the process of curing, 
while of hard-fleshed kinds the loss of weight is only from 
one-third to one-half. In these remarks, the committee 
seem to ignore the Feher Szagos, the raisin grape so suc- 
cessfully cidtivated by Mr. Bugbey, of Sacramento ; or 
perhaps they consider it the same as W. M. of Alexandria. 

25. White Nice. Thomp. Mcintosh. Doioning. 

A very large and showy fruit. Mcintosh, a noted 
English gardener, has grown bunches of this fruit w^eigh- 
ing eighteen pounds, and considers it one of the noblest 
of grapes. 

Bunches very large, with loose shoulders. Berries 
roundish, medium size, thinly distributed over the 
shoulders and sides of the bunch. Skin thin, rather tough, 
greenish white, becoming at maturity a little yellowish. 
Flesh crisp, sweet, and of very good flavor. Leaves and 
w^ood very strong, the former very downy beneath. 

Some authorities say that the White Nice is the same 
as the Royal Muscadine or Chasselas de Fontainebleau ; 
but Downing makes it a different variety. 

26. White Kissling. Thomp. Downing. 

Schloss Johannisbero: : Rudeshimerbers^ : Reisslino^: Petit 
Reisslinsr : Grosser Riesslino: : ROsslino- : Kleir Risslinix. 

Speaking of this grape, a recent writer from Frankfort- 



148 BEST VARIETIES OF 

on-tbe-Main, says : From the Rissling variety are made 
those wines so celebrated and well-known throughout the 
world as Jobannisberg, Steinberger, Catinet, Raunthaler, 
Berg, Leibfraumilch and Marcoheuner. The Rissling | 
never produces in quantity as much juice as any of the 
other varieties, but it brings a larger price. These cele- 
brated Hock vineyards, the same writer asserts, do not 
contain, all told, more than 75 or 80 acres. The usual I 
product from this would be about 900,000 bottles, out of 
the millio?is sold in the United States under that name. 

The bunches of this grape are of medium size, compact. 
Berries rather small, round ; thin skin ; flesh tender and 
juicy, with sweet and sprightly pleasant flavor. A variety 
called the Franklin Reissling has been grown in Santa 
Cruz County in this State, from cuttings obtained by Mr. 
Stock of San Jose, from Germany ; from which an excellent 
article of white wine has been made the past year, by Mr. 
Feely, a vine-grower of Santa Cruz County. — So says the 
Santa Cruz Sentinel. 



27. White Sweetwater. T/iomp. Downing. 

Early White Muscadine : White Muscadine : Early Sweet- 
water : Stillward's Sweetwater : White Chasselas : 
Chasselas de Fontainebleau : Dutch Sweetwater: Clias- 
selas Precoce : Chasselas Royal : Water Zoete Blanc. 

This variety succeeds well, and produces abundantly, in 
California. Bunches rather small size, very close, the ber- 
ries pressing each other almost out of shape, but have rarely 
any imperfect ones as at the East ; long for their diameter, 
and shouldered slightly. Berries of rather small size, round ; 



GHAPES FOR A VINEYARD. 149 

skin thin, clear watery green, with a slight tinge of amber 
when exposed to the sun, and fully ripe. Flesh juicy, sweet 
and of a very good flavor. Ripens in California from 
early in July to late in October, 



28. White Tokay. Thomp. Downing. 

Genuine Tokay : Gray Tokay : Tokaiblanc. 

This is the grape out of which the noted Tokay wine of 
Hungary is made. It has a good flavor, and a peculiarly 
agreeable aroma. 

Bunches of medium size, and compact ; berries rounded, 
oval, closely set ; skin thin, of a dull white ; flesh very 
delicate, sweet and perfumed ; leaves five-lobed, covered 
with a satiny down on the lower surface. This grape does 
well in California, and should be in every wine vineyard in 
the State. 

29 Feher Szagos or Zagos. 

Larga ? 

This fine grape, which has attracted no little attention as 
the grape from which several persons, among them Mr. Bug- 
bey, of Sacramento County, have, during the past two or 
three years, produced luscious specimens of raisinSj does 
not seem to have any distinct genealogy, and no one seems 
to know how it originated. It so nearly resembles the White 
Muscat of Alexandria, and also the White Frontignan, and 
the Larga, that we are inclined to think it belongs to that 
family. Its characteristics and appearance, so far as we 
recollect (not having seen a fair specimen of the grape 
since the State Fair of 1865, and then to give it only a 
casual examination), are so much like the three varieties 



150 BEST VARIETIES OF 

named, that we scarcely feel justified in giving it a distinct 
cLissification. We think it is the same as the Larga, or 
Bloom Grape of Malaga, from which the firnous and 
luscious Bloom Baisinsof Malaga are produced. Szagos 
or Zagos may have have been confounded with Larga, 
the true name in Malaga ; although its name seems to he 
Hun ovarian. 



'O" 



30 China Gkapes : The Peiho, etc. 

None of the grapes of China have, to our knowledge, 
heen introduced into the United States, at least to any 
great extent. We have raised them, to a limited extent, 
in China, hut there are none of a superior character, if we 
except some from the Gulf of Pichili^ which we call the 
Feiho grape, that are excellent, large, white, and luscious, 
somewhat resembling the White Muscat. Those on the 
southern coast of China are white, purple and black, but 
small, and not of very superior flavor. 

We have sent for cuttings of the Peiho grape. 



Class 2. 
grapes with reddish, variegated rose-colored or 

STRIPED BERRIES. 

1. Aleppo. Thorn}). Lind. Doioning. 

Switzerland Grape : Striped Muscadine : Variegated Chas- 
selas : Raisin Suisse : Raisin d'Aless : Chasselas 
panache ; Maurillan panache : Maurillan noir panache. 

This is a very singular grape, the berries being mostly 



i 



GRAJPES FOR A VINEYARD. 151 

striped with white and black, in distinct lines ; sometimes 
half the bunch will be black, and half white. It bears very 
well, and is worth cultivating, to some extent, for its singu- 
larity. The foliage is also prettily striped in autunm. 
Bunches below medium size ; berries about medium in size, 
roundish ; skin thin ; flesh juicy and of a rich and excellent 
flavor. 



2. De Candolle. 

A large, round, purple grape, sweet and of good quality ; 
clusters large and showy; requires high temperature to 
ripen, which it has in California. 



3. Grizzly Frontignai^-. Thomp. Lmd. Downing, 

Red Frontignau : Grizzly Frontignac : Red Constantia : 
Muscat Rouge : Muscat Gris : Muscado Rosso : Kummel 
Traube : Grauer Muscateller. 

This grape, grown in a vinery, is said to be scarcely sur- 
passed for its delicious flavor. 

Bunches long, with narrow shoulders ; berries round, of 
medium size and growing closer upon bunches than those 
of the White Frontignan. Skin thick, pale brown, blend 
ed with red and yellow. Flesh very juicy, rich, musky 
and high flavored. This, by some authorities, is consid- 
ered the same as the Red Frontignan ; but Lindley, with 
whom Mr. Downing accords, thinks it a distinct variety. 
It is, however, a choice kind, and early. 



152 BEST VARIETIES OF 



4. Muscat, Attsteian-. 

Similar in appearance and flavor, but inferior to Grizzly 
Frontignan ; bunches medium, very compact ; berries oval, 
tawny, red ; keeps well, but sometimes cracks. 



5. Red Chasselas. Tkomp. Xiind. Fors. Doicning, 
Red Muscadine : Chasselas Rousfe. 



*■& 



Resembles the White Chasselas, except that tbe berries 
are slightly colored with red. Sometimes, wben over ripe, 
they become a dark red. 

Bunches loose, not large ; berries medium size, round ; 
skin thin, at first pale green, but when exposed to the sun 
they become red ; flesh tender, sweet and very good. 



6. Red Lombardy — Lombardy — Reine de !N"ice — 

FliAaiE-COLOEED TOKAY. 

Wantage: Rhenish Red: Red Grape of Taurida. 

This fine grape, called by Thompson, Lindley and A. J. 
Downing, the Lombardy, and known in California, both by 
the name of Reine de Nice and Flame-colored Tokay, 
grows splendidly in this State, and is a most superb grape. 

It has very large tapering bunches, well shouldered, 
from ten to fifteen inches in length ; berries very large and 
thickly set, roundish, conical form ; skin thick, rich wine 
color, or flame-colored. Flesh fii-m, sweet, juicy, and a 



GRAPES FOB A VINEYARD. 153 

sprightly fine flavor. liijie, in California, in August, Sep- 
tember, and October. It will, we think, make a good grape 
for raisins and wine, as well as a fine table grape. 



7. Red Traminer. 

This is one of the celebrated table and wine grapes of 
the Rhine ; clusters small, compact ; berries small, roundish ; 
rose color ; quality slightly sub-acid, pleasant and excellent. 
It somewhat resembles the Delaware, which is thought by 
some to have been a seedling from the Red Traminer. 
This grape, we think, is the Traminer discarded from the 
experimental gardens in Washington as not worthy of 
cultivation ; in that locality, we suppose. It may still do 
well in California. 



8. Rose Chasselas. 

Described as a beautiful and good variety, resembling 
the Royal Muscadine, except in color, which is bright rose. 
Its bunches and berries are scarcely equal in size, but its 
beauty and flavor recommend it to every collection. 



9. Rose of Peru. 

This delicious grape we find no notice of, in any of our 
books. It has been cultivated quite generally in California, 
for several years past, and is quite a fiivorite in market, as 
a table grape, and we doubt not it will make a good grape 
for wine. It is believed to have been brousjht frDm Peru, 
1* 



154 BEST YARIETIES OF 

some years since, and it adapts itself to our soil and 
climate as well as any of our natives. 

Bunches, large, loose, well shouldered, tapering rapidly 
to a point, having lateral or accessory branches, or sub- 
clusters growing out on either side. Berries medium size, 
sometimes as large, almost, as the Black Hamburg ; skin 
thin, of a dark purple, almost black; flesh rich, juicy, a 
little tart, and of luscious flavor. Ripe in California in 
August, September, October, and ISTovember. 



10. Yedo. 

This new species from Japan, has been thus far but 
partially introduced into our country, at the East. It has 
not, that we are aware of, been introduced into California, 
as yet, to any extent. We have seen it in Japan, its 
native country, but did not there find it a very choice 
grape. It may be improved by culture in California, if 
not at the East. It seems to succeed well in England. 
Bunches of medium size; berries brown, with thin skin; 
flavor excellent. 



Class 3. 

Grapes of Dark Purple Color or Black, 

1. August Muscat. 

Said to be very early. Berries small, oval, black, with 
a slight Muscat flavor, not of first quality. 



grapes for a viistetard. tso 

2. Barbarossa. 

Bunches of large size, often weighing six pounds, 
heavily shouldered, compact ; berries large, i oundish. oval, 
black with a thick bloom ; skin membranous ; flesh green- 
ish white, juicy and of fair quality; is rather shy in fruit- 
ing, but is a valuable late kind'. 

3. Black Alicante. 

Bunches large ; berries large, oval, black ; sets well and 
keeps late. 

4. Black Cluster. Thomp. 

This is called Black Morillon by Lindsley, and by others 
the True Burgundy, Black Burgundy, and by other 
synonyms. It is the Burgundy grape so highly prized for 
wine, in France. The fruit is very sweet and excellent, 
and is a hardy variety. 

Buncbes small, compact ; berries small, oval, black, with 
thin skin, often bursting from the pressure of the berries ; 
flavor brisk, somewhat acid, until over-ripe. It is a pro- 
ductive variety. 

5. Black Corixth. 

A small round black grape, the Zante Curraut of com- 
merce. / 



156 BEST VARIETIES OF 

6. Black FnoNTiGisrAisr. Thomp. 

This is known, also, as Muscat I^oir, Purple Frontignan, 
Black Frontignac, Purple Constantia, and by other names. 
Came originally from France, where it has been largely 
cultivated for making the Muscadine or Frontignan wine. 

Bunches long; berries of a medium size, round, quite 
black ; skin thin ; flavor musky and rich. A good bearer. 

V. Black Hamburg. Thomp. Lind. Speech. 
Downing. 

Warner's Black Hamburg : Purple Hamburg : Red Ham- 
burg: Brown Hamburg: Dutch Hamburg: Victoria; 
Salisbury Violet : Hampton Court Vine : Valentine : 
Gibraltar : Frankendale. 

This Black Hamburg we think the 7ie phcs tiUra of a 
grape for California ; at least of black grapes ; and will 
closely dispute the palm with the White Muscat of Alex- 
andria, as being altogether the finest variety of foreign 
grape that has hitherto been introduced into this State. 

The bunches are very long, from six to ten inches in 
length, very broad at the shoulders, tapering to a point 
gradually. Berries very large, round, slightly inclining to 
oval ; skin rather thick, deep purple, very black at matu- 
rity ; very sugary, juicy and rich. It is a superb grape 
for California, either for the table or for wine, and ripens 
here in July, August, September, October, and November. 
We have had fine specimens of these sent us from Sonoma 
and Pleasant Valley ; and they are raised very generally, 
we believe, throughout the State. Mr. Feely, a vinegrower 
of Santa Cruz, in this State, is said to have produced from 



GRAPES FOR A VINEYARD. 157 

his Black Hamburg vines five years old, twenty-five to 
thirty pounds per vine, the past year. 

8. Black Lombardy. Lind. Tliomp. Downing. 

West's St. Peter's : Money's : Poonah : Raisin des Carmes : 

Raisin de Cuba. 

Bunches large and long, with shoulders ; berries large, 
roundish oval; skin thin, very black at maturity; flavor 
very rich and sugary ; leaves rather small, turning purple 
as the fruit ripens ; keeps late. 

9. Black Morocco. Thomp. DoiDnirig, 

Le Coeur : Black Muscadel : Ansell's Large Oval Black : 
Raisin d'Espagne. 

A large, showy grape, ripening rather late. Downing 
says, of this grape, that the blossoms are a little imperfect, 
and require to be fertilized with those of the Black Ham- 
burg, or some other hardy sort. 

Bunches large ; berries very large, oval ; skin thick, dark 
reddish black ; flavor tolerably sweet and rich. 

We have seen some fair specimens of this grape, raised in 
the Sacramento Yalley; but they do not succeed well in 
aU parts of California ; for instance, Mr. Shaw, of Sonoma, 
says: The Black Bishop and Black Morocco are the same. 
I have them, but would not sell them (the cuttings from 
them) without declaring them (what they are with me) of 
no account whatever. 

In speaking of this statement of Mr. Shaw in our paper, 
the Rural Home Journal, we added the following note : 



168 BEST VAEIETIES OF 

We saw samples of a grape called the Black Morocco, at 
the last State Fair, and also at Stockton ; they appeared 
like a fine grape, and evidently do well in some other locali- 
ties, if not in Sonoma. We have raised, in the Empire of 
Morocco, nearly all the varieties of the grape of that coun- 
try, but do not recollect any of them that resembled, exactly, 
what are here called the Black Morocco. Besides, there 
are many kinds of black grapes in Morocco ; so that we 
might as well say the Black Grape of America, as the Black 
Morocco. 

On this subject we may add some further observations in 
another part of this work. 

If the cost be a standard of value, the Black Morocco 
must be a very valuable grape ; for, while our best Mission 
grapes are retailing in the San Francisco market for five 
cents per lb., and the best Black Haraburgs, Muscat of 
Alexandria, &c,, for 15 to 20 cents per lb., the Black Mo- 
rocco have been sold at 80 cents per lb., and scarce at that. 

10. Black Muscat of Alexaitoeia. Thomp. Downing, 

Red Muscat of Alexandria : Red Frontiuac of Jerusalem. 

Bunches large and shouldered; berries large, oval; skin 
thick, of a reddish color, becoming black at maturity ; flesh 
quite firm, with a rich musky flavor. 

11. Black Muscadine. Lind. Thomp. Downing. 

Black Chasselas : Chasselas Noir. 

A pretty good black grape, but not equal to some other 
varieties. 



GEAPES FOR A VINEYARD. 15 



Bunches of medium size, compact. Berries roundish 
oval ; skin thick, black, overspread with a blue bloom ; 
juice sweet, and of pretty good flavor. 



12. Black Priis'ce. Lind. TJiomp. Downing. 

Alicant : Black Spanish : Black Valentia : Black Portugal : 
Boston: Black Lisbon: Cambridore: Botanic Garden. 



'& 



An excellent kind, highly esteemed, with large and 
long bunches, partially shouldered ; berries large, rather 
thickly set, oval, black, covered with a thick blue bloom ; 
rather thick skin ; flavor sweet, juicy, excellent. It is an 
excellent table grape, and succeeds Avell in California. 

13. Black Saint Peter's. Thomp. Downing. 

Saint Peter's : Black Palestine : Oldaker's West's Saint 

Peter's. 

A fine variety, with large long bunches, well shouldered, 
often weighing two or three pounds ; berries large, oval, 
very black, covered with a fine bloom ; quality excellent, 
sprightly sub-acid ; late, and keeps well. 

14. Black Sweetwater, Thomp. Lind. Downing. 

Water Zoet IsToir. 

Bunches small, compact ; berries small, round ; skin 
thin ; with a sweet and pleasant juice. A second rate, 
but rather hardy sort. 



160 BEST VAEIETIES OF 

15. Black Tripoli. Thomp. Dozening. 

Black Grape from Tripoli. 

It is described as an excellent grape, ripening late. 
Bunches of medium size, shouldered, rather loose ; berries 
large, round, often slightly flattened ; stones quite small ; 
skin thin, purplish black, slightly covered with bloom ; 
flesh tender, sweet, and of tolerably good flavor. 

16. Early Black July. Thomp. Lind, Doioning, 

July Grape : Madeline : Madeline Noir : Raisin Precoce : 
Morillon Hatif : De St. Jean : August Traube. 

The earliest of grapes, and chiefly valued for the desert 
on that account. At the East it ripens the last of July, 
or early in August. The leaves are rather small, and light 
green above and beneath. 

Bunches small and compact; berries small, quite round ; 
skin thick, black, covered with a blue bloom ; flavor 
moderately sweet, but not rich or perfumed. 



17. EsPERioisTE. Thomp. Lind. Doioning. 

Turner's Black : Hardy Blue Windsor : Cumberland 
"^ Lodge. 

This is a hardy, luxuriant and prolific grape, growing 
well in the open air; clusters very large, heavily 



GRAPES FOR A VINEYARD. IGl 

shouldered ; berries small, black, with a fine bloom ; 
sprightly sub-acid ; of second quality. 



18. Ingraham's Hardy Prolific. 

A new grape which has obtained a first-class certificate 
from the English Royal Horticultural Society. Bunches 
a foot in length, with black, oval berries; vinous, with 
slight Muscat flavor. 



19. Lady Downes. 

Considered valuable as a late keeping grape. It some 
what resembles the St. Peter's, the bunches and berries 
being large, and the quality excellent. The fruit will 
remain plump and firm on the vine, if the frost is kept off 
until the new growth commences. 



20. Miller's Burguxdy. Thomp. Lind. Speech. Downing. 

Miller Grape : Le Meunier : Morillon Taconne : Fro 
mente; Aleatica du Po : Sauvignien Noir : 

A favorite variety, long knovm and cultivated in all 
parts of the world, as a hardy grape for wine and table 
use. It is readily known by the dense covering of cotton 
doion which lines both sides of the leaves, whence the 
name Miller'' s grape. 

Bunches short, thick and compact; berries roundish 
oval, very closely set together ; skin thin, black, with a 



162 BEST VAEIETIES OF 

blue bloom ; flesb tender, abounding with a sweet, high 
flavored juice. Each berry contains two small seeds. 
A valuable wine grape, as well as for dessert. 



21. Teentham Black. 

Bunches large; berries large, purple black; skin thin, 
earlier than Black Hamburg, and better than Black Prince, 
which it resembles. 



22. ZiNFINDAL. 

Bunches generally almost equally divided into two long 
shoulders, making a large cluster ; berries medium, round, 
very black, covered with a thick bloom ; sprightly acid, 
becoming good when fully ripe. Makes a good wine grape 
in California. 



Class 4. 

California Varieties. 

mission los angeles — sonoma — santa barbara — ma5i- 

moth vitis californica. 

We have seen at the commencement of this Part of our 
subject, how great a favorite this Mission grape is in' Cali- 
fornia. They are generally classed as two difierent kinds. 



GRAPES FOR A VIXEYARD. 163 

the Los Angeles and the Sonoma or I^orthern variety ; but 
we doubt if they be of different varieties in reality. The 
difference of soil and climate may be sufticient to account 
for the slight difference in appearance of the fruit. They 
are supposed to have been introduced into California by 
the Jesuit missionaries from Spain, some eighty years since. 
They very much resemble a grape we have seen in Morocco, 
taken to that country we presume by the Moors, from 
Spain, after the conquest. 

The Los Angeles variety has a somewhat heavier bloom 

than that known as the Sonoma ; but we have seen speci- 

mei^s from the San Joaquin Yalley that had as heavy, 

. deep a bloom as any we recollect to have seen from Los 

Angeles. 

Bunches slightly shouldered, loose, divided in fact into 
many small, distinct, lateral clusters, from six to ten inches 
or more in length. We have seen bunches of this grape in 
the San Francisco market, the latter part of October, weigh- 
ing severally 5 and 7 pounds. Berries medium size, round, 
purple-black, heavy bloom; exceedingly sweet, juicy and 
delicious; skin thin, but seeds rather large. Ripens in 
favorable places, such, for instance, as at the Woolfskills', 
on Putah Creek, the first of July. It has succeeded very 
well in some of the Eastern States. Some cuttings from 
Los Angeles raised in the open air, in Albany, N. Y., are 
described as being not quite as large as those sent from 
California, but of fine flavor ; the same, of a sample tried 
at Buffalo, N. Y. 

Santa Barbara Mammoth Yine. 
We call this the Mammoth, not so much on account of 



164 BEST VARIETIES OP 

the size of its fruit, as of its vine, and of its prodigiously 
prolific bearing properties. The following description is 
derived from the daily press of this city : 

One of the celebrities of Spanish California is the immense 
and beautiful grape vine now growing at the Montecito, 
two or three miles below Santa Barbara. The planter of 
the vine was Dona Marcellina Feliz de Dominguez, of the 
earliest expedition to Sonora, before 1780, It was planted 
by her over sixty-five years ago, from a slip which she cut 
from the young vineyard at San Antonio Mission, in Mon- 
terey Co., for a horse-whip. Her husband had got per- 
mission to make a small garden near the warm springs^ of 
Montecito, and here she planted it on the edge of a knoll. 
It immediately took root and began to bud and leaf, and 
from careful attention, before she died, it was made to pro- 
duce more than any known grape vine in all America, 
North or South. Between 1850 and 1860 it had been 
trailed over some 80 feet in circumference, with a trunk of 
12 inches diameter, rising clean 15 feet from the ground. 
Some years it has borne over 6,000 bunches of ripe and 
sound grapes, or close on to 8,000 pounds, and become the 
wonder of every resident or sojourner in that part of Cali- 
fornia. And w^hat is more, for the last thirty years it has 
principally maintained the old woman and her numerous 
family. 

Prof. Silliman, when he visited it last year, said he had 
never heard of such an immense grape vine in any other 
country, which is saying a great deal, as he has travelled 
much in the south of Europe. 

It may be well to add, that the Dona, alluded to above, 
died a year or two since, having been not much less pro- 
lific than her noted vine, as she had brought forth fourteen 



GRAPES FOE A VINEYARD. 165 

children, who had multiplied in all to three hundred 
descendants. 

We have thus given a somewhat extended descriptive 
list of the various foreign varieties of grapes wliich are 
considered of the choicest kinds, as well as our serai-foreign 
variety, the California Mission grape ; and all of which, it 
is believed, are well adapted to the soil and climate of 
California. 

One of the committees of our State Agricultural Fair, 
in their Report on the Culture of the Grape in California, 
speak thus, on this subject : 

In this department of Pomology, localities are repre- 
sented covering a great variety of soils, and extending over 
an area of territory greater than the wine districts of 
Europe, and your committee believe that on no other spot 
of the globe can there be found so many varieties of grapes, 
natives of such varying climes ; all taking kindly to the 
new soil and atmosphere ; each seeming to flourish better 
than in their indigenous homes. We find the hardy Isa- 
bella and Catawba, of frosty climes, growing side by side 
with the Syrian of the Holy Land, and the perfumed Muscat 
of Egypt ; thus showing that in the amelioration of our 
climate each finds elements for the most perfect develop- 
ment. Speaking of Mr. J. R. Nickerson of Placer County, 
the committee add : This gentleman shows ^/i/ti/ varieties, 
all very fine. Among his lot are Jifti/ bunches of Black 
Hamburgs, grown on a vine one year old from the cutting, 
[This is rather a big story, we admit]. 

The committee find that the California variety mildews 
in localities where many foreign kinds escape ; and they 
come to the conclusion that it is safer to plant Black Ham- 
burgs, Catawbas, Chasselas de Fontainebleau (?), White 



166 BEST YARIETTES OF 

Sweetwater, "Royal Muscadine, and many other hardy for- 
eign sorts, where there is any danger of mildew. Many 
foreign kinds also ripen earlier than the California variety, 
and come into bearing sooner, and it is believed will make 
a better wine. In conclusion, the committee suggest that 
the general exhibit of grapes establishes the fact that our 
climate can produce all of the finest varieties of grapes in 
out-door field-culture in as great perfection as under the 
most expensive hot-house care in the Atlantic States, or 
Europe, and that the choicest vintage of the world is yet 
to be produced in our favored land. 

Mr. S. Rich, of Sacramento County, also exhibited twenty 
varieties of foreign grapes, among which was Reine de 
Nice, or Lombardy. 

This was several years ago ; since that time the culture 
of the foreign varieties of grapes has greatly increased in 
California. 

At the late State Fair at Sacramento for 1866, there 
was a splendid exhibit of these foreign varieties of 
grapes. 

Mr. B. ]Sr. Bugbey, who has two or three vineyards near 
Folsom, one the Natoma Vineyard, of about fifty-six acres, 
and the Duroc, of twenty acres, exhibited some forty kinds 
of grapes, many of them of the best European varieties ; 
and some twenty varieties of wines, red, white and spark- 
ling, from the most approved varieties of the wine grape ; 
also, several samples of luscious raisins, some of the last 
year's make, produced from the Feher Szagos or Sagos 
grape, said to be a native of Hungary ; and the White 
Malaga, which resembles it. We have elsewhere expressed 
the opinion that this is the Larga, or Bloom Raisin grape 
of Malaga. Mr. B. produced last year 600 boxes of these 
delicious raisins, samples of which we have tasted, and 



GRAPES FOR A VINEYARD. 167 

think them equal to the best Malaga raisins. He has, we 
understand, put up 1,000 boxes the past year. 

Mr. J. R. Nickerson, also, (of whom we have spoken a 
page or two preceding this,) had a large exhibit of grapes 
from which he has made wine and raisins. His vineyards 
are in the foot-hills of Placer County. There were many 
other exhibitions of the foreign grapes, such as the Muscat, 
Hamburg, Rose of Peru, etc. The San Francisco market 
daily, during the latter part of summer, and through the 
autumn, presents exhibitions of these delicious fruits of the 
vine and of the choicest European varieties. 

ViTis Californica, or Califorxia Wild Native 
Grape, has been introduced into the State of N"ew York, 
in a small way, we presume, and is thus described by 
W. R. Prince, the well known fruit-grower of that State. 
Leaf sub-rotund, large toothed, entire or lobed, smooth 
above, tomentose beneath ; berry small, black, moderately 
juicy, assimilates to Y. cordifolia, but distinct, and ripens 
in summer. Vine of vigorous growth ; usually found on 
the borders of streams. We have it bearing on our grounds. 
It is of most vigorous growth, and will ascend thirty or 
forty feet or more, and spread its branches in proportion. 

Little or no account is made of this wild mustans: here 
in California, while we have so many choice varieties that 
succeed so well. 



n. American ISTative Varieties, or Grapes for the 
States East and for California. 

We must now proceed with our list of grapes for the 
states east of the Rocky Mountains, as that is what we 



1G8 BEST VARIETIES OF . 

mean by Eastern States. It is chiefly on our own hardy- 
native varieties that onr countrymen in those States must 
rely ; as the inclemency of the winter climate, and the late 
and early frosts, put a most effectual embargo on the 
introduction of the choice tender foreign varieties that are 
so highly prized in the milder climes of Europe, and which 
flourish so preeminently in our own highly favored Cali- 
fornia. As all of our native, hardy x\merican varieties 
flourish, also, equally well in California, in fact better than 
at the East, having their sharp, acrid properties and acidity 
of taste very much toned down by our genial climate and 
friendly soil, our lists of those native varieties will there- 
fore answer for California, equally as well as for our 
Eastern readers and viniculturists. 

It cannot be expected that in this little Treatise we 
should be able to find space for all the native varieties that 
have sprung into existence during the brief history of our 
country ; their name is legion, and legion upon legion. 
We have before us a list comprising over 300 kinds. We 
can only give the most select varieties, from the best 
authorities and lights of experience we have before us. 
And as there are many conflicting personal opinions engen- 
dered, to some extent, by the private interest and preju- 
dices of parties directly and personally interested, we 
prefer to adopt the selections adopted by the most intelli- 
gent Associations which have made this matter a study and 
have informed themselves by practical exj^erience. In 
accordance with this plan, we give first, below, the list 
selected by the Western New York Fruit Growers' Asso- 
ciation, by a vote on each several variety, which will tend 
to show the popular opinion and experience of that intelli- 
gent body of Pomologists. At their meeting dui'ing the 
past summer, at Rochester, New York, on a proposition 



GRAPES FOR A YINETARD. 



1G9 



to designate the best six varieties of grapes for general 
cultivation, the vote as to their relative merits stood thus : 



Delaware 56 votes 

Diana 47 

lona 36 

Isabella 32 

Crevelling 30 

Concord 29 

Hartford Prolific 25 

Rebecca 10 

Catawba 12 



Allen's Hybrid 9 votes 

Adirondac 7 

Clinton 1 

Rogers' No. 4 2 

Clover Street Black 1 

Hamburg 1 

Anna 1 

Maxatawny 1 

Rogers' Nos. 3, 15, and 19 1 



It will thus be seen, that the old favorites which so long 
ruled the day, Isabella, Catawba, and Clinton, are thrown 
quite in the shade by this expression of popular preference, 
and by the pretentious rivals that have assumed their place. 
This convocation of fruit growers we believe was made up 
of delegates or representatives from several other States 
besides New York ; including, we think, Ohio, Pennsyl- 
vania, etc. Among the names of the gentlemen who took 
part in the discussion and action of the Association, as we 
recollect, were those of Downing and Barry, and Griffith, 
a prominent vine grower on the lake Erie borders of 
Pennsylvania. 

We think, therefore, that this selection of the new 
hardy varieties of our native grape may be considered as 
the most approved, especially for the middle and north- 
ern States of the Union. And yet Mr. Barry, in the 
account of his late visit to the Lake Shore vineyards of 
Pennsylvania, Ohio, etc., says that the Catawba is the 
principal variety in all the bearing vineyards, but adds 
that other varieties are being tested, some of the new 

sorts quite extensively* 
8 ■ 



170 BEST VARIETIES OF 

But, as we have shown, in a country so varied in soil, 
climate, and atmospheric peculiarities, as is our widely- 
extended domain, a great variety and diversity of kinds 
must be required to supply the proper grape to the proper 
place. This part of our subject has already been discussed 
in Part II. of this work, under the head of Climate Best 
Adapted to the Culture of the Yiue, showing the various 
divisions or districts where certain varieties flourish best. 

A writer in the Magazine of Horticulture says that 
JVbrton''s Virginia now stands at the head of grapes for 
red wine in this country ; the must often weighing over 
100, and its alcohol ranging from nine to eleven per cent. 
It colors early, but to make the best wine from it, the 
fruit should be permitted to hang until November. 

It might, perhaps, be well to try this as a wine grape in 
California. 

E. K. Phcenix, in the Country Gentleman, says : Dela- 
ware, Concord, Hartford Prolific and Crevelling promise 
to be our staples. 

And thus we might go on, almost ad infinitum, giving 
the encomiums of the friends of each variety. 

We have, as we have before remarked, now before us a 
list of over three hundred varieties of native grapes, every 
one of which has doubtless some especial admirer and 
eulogist. But we must be content to present to our read- 
ers such a list as we think may be best suited for the 
various grape growing regions of our country ; premising 
that we doubt not all will, more or less successfully, adapt 
themselves to California. Which of the untried varieties 
will succeed best will have to be demonstrated by actual 
experience. 

We give, therefore, the following as our 



GRAPES FOE A VIIfEYAED. l7l 

desceiptive list oe hardy varieties of kative grapes 
for general culture. 

1. Adirondac. 

Presumed to be a seedling from the Isabella, which it 
resembles. Bunches large, compact, shouldered ; berries 
large, round, dark with a slight bloom; skin thin; flesh 
melting, sweet, excellent, juicy, but not high flavored. 



2. Allen's Hybrid. 

Bimches large, long, compact, shouldered; berries 
medium, round, pale amber ; skin thin ; flesh melting to 
the centre; very sweet and juicy; not so hardy as some, 
but would do well in California. 



3. Anna. 

Bunches large, shouldered ; berries large, globular ; color 
white ; flavor sweet, rich ; ripens with Diana. It is vigor- 
ous and hardy ; ripens two weeks earlier than the Catawba ; 
is a fine raisin grape. 



4. Bullitt. (Taylor.) 

Originated in Kentucky ; clusters and berries very 
small ; greenish or brownish white ; sweet and spicy ; very 
hardy and strong. It makes a fine wine. 



112 best vakieties of 

5. Catawba. 

Bunches medium size, shouldered ; berries large, round^ 
pale red ; sweet, foxy flavor. Succeeds well in California. 
It originated in North Carolina. 

6. Clinton". 

Bunches medium size, compact; berries small, round, 
black, acid ; very hardy and a good wine grape. 

7. Clover Street Black. 

Originated by Jacob Moore, of Rochester, N". Y. ; said 
to be a cross between the Diana and Black Ilamburor. 
Bunches large and well shouldered ; berries large, black, 
with a fine bloom ; flesh tender with little pulp, sweet 
spirited and excellent ; ripens middle September ; a new 
variety that promises well. 

8. Concord. 

Bunches large, shouldered ; berries large, round, black ; 
sweet, foxy. Ripens in California in September. 

9. Crevelling. 

Berries large, round, black ; sweet ; bunches medium 
size, long and loose ; skin thin ; flesh melting, sweet, juicy, 
with a peculiar plum-like flavor ; ripens with the Delaware. 



geapes for a vineyard. 173 

10. Delaware. 

Bunches medium size, compact ; berries small, round ; 
pale red ; sweet, vinous. Originated in New Jersey ; sup- 
posed to be a seedling from the Catawba, crossed with 
some foreign variety. Ripens middle of September in vi- 
cinity of Boston. Yery good raisins are said to have been 
made from this grape m the Eastern States. 

11. Diana, 

Bunches medium, shouldered ; berries large, round, red- 
dish lilac ; sweet, vinous. Takes its name from Mrs. Diana 
Crehore, of Boston, who originated it. This grape will 
produce good raisins. 

12. Diana Hamburg. 

Another hybrid, by Mr. Moore, of Kochester. It is thus 
described in Hovey's Magazine : 

Clusters very large, six to eight inches in length, usually 
longer in proportion to breadth than the Hamburg ; regu- 
larly shouldered, compact ; berries roundish, larger than 
the Concord ; dark crimson, with a rich purple bloom, 
mingled with a fiery lustre in the sunlight; flesh perfectly 
tender, breaking to the centre and letting out the seeds like 
a foreign grape ; of sugary sweetness, in flavor remarkably 
like the Hamburg, but more aromatic and lively, fully 
equalling that excellent variety. Hardy and very produc- 
tive ; fruit ripens after the Concord, and a week or ten days 
earUer than the Diana. A promising new variety. 



174 best varieties of 

13. Hartford Prolific. 

Bunches medium size, shouldered; berries medium size, 
round, black; sweet, foxy. Ripens in ISTew York about 
first September. 

14. Herbemont. 

An immense grower, and the most ornamental of all out- 
door vines ; perfectly hardy south of New York ; its berries 
medium size ; color deep purple ; covered with bloom ; the 
bunches very large ; has a very distinct rich spicy vinous 
flavor. Downing says of it : Its berries are hags of loine. 
A good variety for California, although it is somewhat un- 
certain in a cold climate. 

15. HoWELIi. 

Of this new grape Meechan's Monthly says : It was per- 
fectly ripe September 4 ; with bunches andberries of medium 
size, of a jet black color; thin skin, and too firm pulp ; but 
superior to Concord, and much better than many that have 
been "let out " with a loud explosion. 

16. Ion A. 

A promising seedling raised by Dr. Grant, supposed to 
be from the Catawba, which it resembles. Bunches large, 
shouldered, and rather loose ; berries large, round, light 
red, with dark red veins ; skin thin ; flesh melting to the 



GRAPES FOR A VUSTEYARD. 175 

centre ; full of juice, brisk, vinous, and excellent. Ripens 
about with tbe Concord. 



17. Isabella. 

Bunches medium size, shouldered ; berries large, oval, 
black; sweet, foxy, rich. Is a native of South Carolina, 
named after Mrs. Isabella Gibbs, of ^N'ew York State, by 
whom it was introduced to the notice of cultivators. The 
bunches of the Isabella grown in California are very small ; 
not much larger than those of the wild fox grape at the 
East ; and the berries are but little larger than those. They 
are, however, much sweeter, and more juicy, here than at 
the East. 

18. ISRAELLA. 

Another seedling by Dr. Grant, resembling the Isabella. 
Bunches large, compact, shouldered ; berries large, black, 
slightly oval, like the Isabella ; skin thin ; flesh melting to 
the centre ; sweet, and free from foxiness ; ripens early in 
September. 

19. Louisa. 

Dark purple ; size and quality similar to Isabella ; ripe 
ten days ecrlier. 

20. Maxatawnt. 

Originated in Pennsylvania ; is a healthy, early, vigorous 
variety, of excellent quality. Bunches medium, compact, 



176 BEST VAEIETIES OF 

without shoulders ; berries medium, oval, greenish white ; 
flesh tender, sweet and delicious, without pulp. It is con- 
sidered too late for northern culture ; ripens at the East 
the first of October. 



21. Mince's Seedling. 

Clusters large ; berries of medium size, pale, red, of fine 
flavor ; productive and hardy. 



22. Rebecca. 

Bunches medium, compact ; berries medium, obovate ; 
greenish white; sweet, musky. 



23. RoGEEs' Htbeids. 

' Of this large family of seedling, or hybrid grapes, brought 
before the public by Mr. E. S. Rogers, of Salem, Mass., 
Numbers 3, 4, 15, and 19, seem to be preferable. We will, 
therefore, give a description of those varieties : 

N'o. 3. — ^Is considered one of the most desirable of this 
class, on account of its earliness, whicli is nearly with the 
Delaware. Bunches of medium size ; berries above me- 
dium, oval, dark red; flesh tender, sweet, with flavor 
resembling the Diana. 

N'o. 4. — A very large black grape, resembling the Union 
Village. It is of vigorous growth, hardy and productive; 
cf good quality, noble appearance, and promises to be a 



\ 



GRAPES FOK A VIXEYAED. 177 

good market grape. Bunches large, compact; berries 
very large, round, black, with thick bloom ; flesh melting, 
very juicy, sprightly acid, but becoming sweeter when 
fully ripe ; later than the Concord. 

JSTo. 15. — Is regarded by Mr. Rogers as his best. It is 
remarkably vigorous, productive and hardy ; and will pass 
as a good, sweet grape, where the taste is not too critical. 
Bunches of fair size, rather loose, shouldered ; berries oval, 
large, dark red ; flesh juicy, with some pulp and foxiiiess, 
and somewhat stringy; leaves a rough taste upon the 
palate ; ripens as early as Concord. 

JSTos. 19 and 33, resemble No. 4, but are thought less 
desirable. 

N'o. 41. — ^Is a large, black grape, similar to JSTo. 4, and 
thought to be earlier and sweeter. 

Mr. Strong says : The higher numbers of these seedlings 
are a second generation from the lower numbers, impreg- 
nated with foreign kinds ; and, in general, they seem to 
have too much of the foreign element for our climate. 

This objection, stated by Mr. S., will not apply to Cali- 
fornia. 



24. SCUPPEEXOXG. 

This is a very distinct southern species of grape, grow- 
ing wild from Virginia to Florida and Texas. There are 
several varieties, the white, blue, etc. Clusters small, loose, 
v.ith but few scattering berries, sometimes not more than 
six. Berries large, round ; skin thick, light green in the 
white, dark red in the black varieties ; flesh quite juicy, 
except when very thoroughly ripe ; juicy and sweet, but 

8* 



178 BEST VARIETIES OF 

with a strong musky scent and flavor ; makes an excellent 
wine, but suited only to a southern chmate ; would do well 
in California, though probably not as profitable a variety 
as we already have in this State. \ 

25. TJnioit Tillage. ^ 

This variety originated with the Shakers, in a place of 
that name, near Cincinnati, Ohio, and was introduced by 
Mr. Longworth. In appearance it is described as like a 
monstrous Isabella, which it resembles in flavor, but is 
richer and ripens at least a week sooner. In bunch and 
berry it is said to be twice the size of that variety. It is 
a good wi?ie grape. 



26. YiKGiNiA Seedling. (Norton's Seedhng.) 

Originated in Virginia. It is considered a grape of rare 
excellence in Missouri, for the production of wine, and 
very hardy. Muench says, that during several years of 
almost entire failure of the Catawba grape crops, this vine 
bore regularly. He adds : It will hardly be supplanted 
in our own and in more southern latitudes, even by the 
best that may yet be found, since from it a dark red wine 
is made of very peculiar excellence, which, at the same 
time, in some of the diseases peculiar to this climate, is of 
the greatest service. The clusters bear small berries, very 
compact, dark and but little juicy ; fourteen pounds yield- 
ing but one gallon of must ; less suited for the table, but 
at full maturity, when they begin to dry on their stems, 
unusually rich in sugar and aroma. Is considered, alto- 
gether a superior grape for a mild climate. 



GRAPES FOR A VINEYARD. 179 

The best six grapes for producing icine^ in the neighbor- 
hood of Cincinnati, are deemed to be the following, 
rating in the order in which they are numbered, viz : 

1. Delaware, 4. Lincoln, 

2. Herbemont, 5. Catawba, 

3. Minor's Seedling, 6. Union Village. 

Mr. John L. Mottier, of Cincinnati, thus describes the 
wine he made from some of these vines : 

The Delaware wine was the richest and preserved the 
real bouquet of the grape, and it improved by age. The 
vintage of 1859 contained ^^ per cent, of alcohol. 

Herheinont. — The very uncertain climate of that region 
too cold for it. No good wine since 1850, until 1859, 
when the crop was good ; wine very good ; quite delicate ; 
will not bear transporting to any great distance. Alcohol 
h\ per cent. 

Minor'' s Seedling. — Quite foxy in flavor, but a fine, light 
colored wine. Alcohol 6 per cent. 



PART IX. 

VESTETARDS OF MOKOCCO AND SPAIN I COMPARED WITH 
CALIFORNIA. THE AUTHOr's FIRST VINEYARD IN THE 
"land of THE MOOR." 

1, Grapes and G-rape Culture in Morocco; the Author's observations 
and experience in that country ; his First Vineyard ; different varie- 
ties of grapes; The Black Morocco, the Red Morocco and the White 
Morocco ; the Author's vineyard, and its picturesque aspect ; climate 
of Morocco compared with Cahfornia. 2. Vineyards of Andalusia ; 
Raisins, and modes of preparing them; the Author's observations 
in Malaga, and during a horse-back tour through the Vega of Gre- 
nada, as related in his letter from Malaga; s-\iring of Raisins no mys- 
tery or difficult process. Spanish modes of cultivating the vine, 
and the tools they use. 3. Dried grapes and Raisin making in 
California ; the climate of California quite equal to that of Spain ; the 
Author's reasons for that opinion. The bright Occident, and the 
flowery Orient. 



1. Grapes and Grape Culture in Morocco. 

From a comnmnicatioa written by us, under date "Land 
of the Moor, Tangier, Nov. 9, 1848," to the editor of the 
Albany Cultivator, and published in that periodical of Feb- 
ruary, 1849, we extract what we said therein on the sub- 
ject of vine growing, the varieties of the grape cultivated 
in that country, and our ^'' First Vineyard in the Land of 
the Moor," following: 

Most of the tropical fruits grow here in perfection ; the 
orange, lemon, lime, plantain, banana, fig, olive, date, etc. ; 
and the grapes are delicious. There are many varieties of 



182 GRAPES AND GRAPE CULTURE 

this excellent fruit, some white, some black, and some of a 
wine color; the Muscatels are very fine; and there is a 
kind which, from their remarkable length, and delicate, 
slender, tapering form, I should call the " Ladies' Finger," 
that are of a rich, sweet flavor. We have had ripe grapes 
here since the middle of July. A single cluster which was 
sent me by a friend, weighed three pomids. This luxurious 
fruit may be bought here during nearly all of the sum- 
mer months for one cent per pound. The hills and valleys 
for miles around this place, are covered with vineyards 
and orange groves ; and most of my consular and diplo- 
matic colleagues, have fine gardens filled with all these 
delightful fruits. * * * You will not be surprised, I 
presume, that amid such scenes, and under such tempting 
circumstances, my old horticultural mania should return. 
I have purchased of a Moor a little vineyard and garden, 
containing about an acre of ground, and which, although 
somewhat run down for want of proper care and attention 
in cultivating it, has, nevertheless, large varieties of grapes 
and figs, oranges, pomegranates, etc. 

My little plantation is situated on the slope or terrace of 
a hill, a few rods outside of the city walls, (enclosed with 
a hedge of the ever-verdant cane, already fifteen to twenty 
feet high,) and commands fine views of the surrounding 
orange groves and vineyards, the mountain peaks of 
Morocco, (the grand old Atlas,) and the time-renowned 
" Pillars of Hercules," as well as of the old Moorish 
citadel, castle and upper portion of the town, and a de- 
lightful water view overlooking the Bay and Straits of 
Gibraltar, with the mountains of Andalusia and the rocky 
Fortress of Gibraltar, peering up in the gray distance ; and 
all vessels going iu or out of the Straits passing within 
range of our view. 



OF THE EMPIRE OF MOROCCO. 183 

Again, in a commimication on the ^^ Fruits and Fruit 
Trees of Morocco,'''' bearing date "Tangier, July 4, 1850," 
and published in Downing's Horticulturist in October of 
that year, we wrote thus of 

The Vine. The Grape grows here spontaneously, and is 
cultivated largely and successfully in the various gardens 
and vineyards which abound in the vicinity of the large 
towns and villages of the Empire, although comparatively 
little pains seem to have been taken to obtain the finer 
qualities, yet I have eaten of a number of varieties here 
that are little, if any, inferior to the best Malaga Musca- 
tels or Blooms. Both of these superior kinds of grape are 
to be found here, as well as many other excellent varieties 
scarcely inferior to them in quality ; in fact, I think that 
some of the smaller white grapes excel, in their rich musky 
flavor, and in melting juiciness, those far-famed and justly 
favorite varieties, although they are not so large and beau- 
tiful. Many of these choice varieties are, I doubt not, in- 
digenous and peculiar to this country, but are without any 
appropriate name. Many of the black ones, although of a 
sweet, pleasant flavor, are too pulpy, and not so juicy and 
rich as the lighter colored ones. [Among these was what, 
in California, is now called the Black 3Io?'OCCO.^ There are 
a few, however, of a wine color, long and tapering, (some- 
times over an inch in length,) that are nearly if not quite 
equal in richness to the white. These we call the " Ladies' 
Fingers." [This is the Lonibardy, or what is now called, 
in California, the Heine de Nice^ and the Flame-colored 
Tokay, etc.] 

We have r^e grapes here from about the first of July 
until late in October. Very little wine is made here, as 
the Moors are prohibited, by their religion, from making, 
vending, or using any kind of spirituous hquors. The Jews, 



184 GRAPES AND GRAPE CULTURE 

however, who are not allowed by their creed to drink any 
wine or spirits manufactured by Christians, make their own 
wine, which is but poor stuff; and also make a kind of 
liqnor called aguadiente^ upon which they contrive to 
make themselves merry, all "according to the laws of 
Moses," of course ! 

The vine flourishes upon neaj'ly all kinds of soil. Many 
of the vineyards in this vicinity are upon pure, dry, liglit 
sandbanks which have been blown up from the sea shore. 
. The leaves begin to fall in August, while the fruit is still 
ripening ; and late in winter, before the vines start, they 
are trimmed, all the lateral shoots cut off, and nothing but 
the mam branches left. Some of the more indolent of the 
natives turn in their calves, donkeys, etc., and let them 
browse off the superfluous branches ; quite a labor-saving 
operation, as they think ! 

When the notes from which the foregoing extracts are 
taken, were made by us, in the " Land of the Moor," six- 
teen or eighteen years since, we little thought we should 
ever have occasion to use them in this far-off Golden State 
of the Pacific. But such are the mutations of human life. 
It has always been our aim in our travels around the world, 
to let no matters that might be of immediate or remote 
interest, escape our attention, or go unrecorded. 

The climate and seasons of that portion of Northern 
Africa bordering on the Straits of Gibraltar and the Medi- 
terranean, as well as the Southern coast of Andalusia, are 
similar to those of the milder portions of California, and 
as we are striving to introduce and acclimate the fruits of 
that region of country in California, it may be deemed a 
matter of such interest to our readers as to induce them 
to excuse this reference to our own by-gone experiences in 
that sunny land. 



OF THE EMPIRE OF MOROCCO. 185 

As a matter of further interest to the viniculturists and 
horticulturists of California, especially, we would state that 
we have sent out orders, some time since, for cuttings of 
the choicest varieties of the grapes and figs, {such figs we 
have seen in no other quarter of the globe,) and other 
choice fruits of Morocco, Malaga and Cadiz, as well as to 
Madeira, Lisbon, Oporto, Bordeaux, Marseilles, Smyrna, 
Alexandria in Egypt, Sicily, Manila, China, Japan, etc., 
and hope ere long to be able to show that California, the 
bright Occident, can vie with the flowery Orient, and the 
sunny lands of the Mediterranean, in the production of the 
choicest fruits of the earth, if she cannot rival the 
renowned and fabulous Garden of Hesperides. 

2. Raislns. Modes op Preparing Them. The Author's 
Observations in Malaga. 

We again find it necessary to recur to our notes of 
foreign travel to refresh our memory on the subject now 
before us. The production of Raisins is one of the most 
interesting and delightful, as well as profitable employ- 
ments in which the viniculturist can engage, when he is 
fortunate enough to have a vineyard situated where the 
grapes that produce, and the climate that cures, this most 
delicious fruit, can be found. In California we have such 
a climate and can produce the required fruit in as great 
perfection as in any other country in the world. This is no 
extravagant declaration, but a simple, practical fact, as we 
think we shall be able to convince the reader of this little 
Treatise, by the time he has followed us through its pages. 

In our travels through the Vegaof Granada, and among 
the vine-clad hills of Malaga, (as we traveled on horse- 
back we had a fine oj)portunity of seeing the country,) 



186 MALAGA — ITS EAISINS 

there was no object in nature, where man had had the 
fashioning, that inipressed us with more novelty and 
interest than these same vine-clad hill-sides and teeming 
vineyards. And of all the vintager's operations none were 
more novel or interesting than the simple mode of trans- 
forming the rich, juicy grape into the delicious raisin. Of 
this process, let an extract from one of our own letters, 
written from that interesting region to a friend in New 

York, speak for itself : 

Malaga, April 25, 1850. 

You have often partaken of Malaga raisins, the most 
delicious of all preserved fruits, and so have all our country- 
men ; but every one may not understand how they are pre- 
pared. The process is the most simple imaginable. As 
soon as the grapes begin to ripen, the vinedressers pass 
through the vineyard and cut the clusters off from the 
vines, and leave them upon the naked ground^ turning them 
over daily, until the heat of the sun above, and the warmth 
of the earth upon which they lie, shall have baked and 
dried them through, when they are gathered up, put into 
boxes, and are ready for use. This is all the wonder and 
mystery there is in preserving and preparing this delicious 
fruit. To my inquiry, why they did not place leaves, or 
some clean dry substance of the kind, upon the ground, 
for the fruit to lie upon, I was told that the naked ground 
was much better ; that, in fact, the fine flavor of the fruit 
was dependent more upon, the warmth of the earth, than 
on the mere external heat of the sun. Care has to be 
taken, however, that the fruit does not get wet while 
undergoing this process. But as it seldom rains during 
the summer or vintage, in this country, it is very rarely 
that the fruit has to be taken up before it is fully dried. 
The vintage or season for gathering the fruit, commences 



AND RAISIN VINEYARDS. 187 

about the middle of August. Now (in April) the vine- 
dressers are busily engaged in hoeing and digging among 
the vines, clearing them of weeds, and hilling them up 
very much as the farmers in the United States hoe their 
corn, potatoes, etc. They use for the purpose, hoes some- 
what resembling a pick, excepting that one side has two 
or three long prongs, with which they loosen the earth 
very effectively. The soil generally resembles a light and 
sandy loam, and does not appear capable of producing 
scarcely any vegetation. But the vine and the olive, you 
know, will flourish where almost every other kind of vege- 
table life would starve and perish. In all that part of the 
south of Spain through which I have travelled, from Cadiz 
and Tarifa to Malaga, Yalez Malaga, Alhama, Granada, 
Loja, etc., this same barren, sterile appearance of soil 
is apparent upon the mountains and uplands. The general 
surface of the country is not merely undulating, but 
mountainous, to a far greater degree than I had any idea 
of. I do verily believe that these arid hills and mountains 
comprise nine-tenths of the whole surface of the land, in 
the province of Andalusia ; and that the fertile spots — the 
vegas or valleys — only constitute the one-tenth. But these 
latter are the gardens of Spain. 

These extracts will be sufficient to show, not only the 
simpler modes of curing and preparing raisins, but as well 
the climate and soils which produce the most delicious 
grapes, probably, and certainly the most luscious raisins of 
any country, where the experiments have been fully and 
fairly tried. And we repeat, that in climate and soil, and 
their affinity with the grape, there is no country that can claim 
to excel or equal it, so justly as can California. Spain has 
her Sierra Nevadas, snow-capped, her innumerable foot- 
hills, her valleys and her genial clime; California has all 



188 MALAGA ITS KAISINS AND VINEYARDS. 

these, "her Sierra ISTevadas, and foot-hills, as well ; and has, 
thus far, shown that the wine and the choicer varieties of 
grapes, and richly flavored raisins, that she can produce, it 
will not be easy for far-famed Andalusia to excel. 

Col. Haraszthy suggests that an improved drying ground 
for the raisin might be made, by using asphaltum, gravel, 
etc., in the manner of using it for sidewalks in our cities. 
One great objection to this mode is that the strong odor 
of the asphaltum would be likely, we think, to impregnate 
the fruit so strongly as to spoil it, unless there could be 
found some way to deodorize it. 

But there are other modes of curing the raisin, differing 
somewhat from that given above, one of v/hich we trans- 
cribe thus : 

The raisins are sometimes dried on the vine, so as to 
preserve the beautiful bloom that covers the ripe grape. 
They are generally known as the Muscatel raisin. When 
preparing them, the grapes, when ripe, are allowed to 
remain on the vines, but the main stem of each bunch is 
cut partly off, leaving barely strength enough to prevent 
their falling to the ground, which shrivels them up, and 
dries out much of the original watery fluid; the leaves 
being properly removed to admit the sun, the pulp remain- 
ing, becomes, by concentration, very sweet. These are 
sometimes called '* Raisins of the Sun." The Bloom and 
Muscatel or Malaga raisins, however, are the names by 
which they are generally known in this country. 

The Sultana, or stoneless raisin, is made in a similar man- 
ner, from the White Corinth or Sultana grape. 

The quantity of raisins imported into the United States 
from Spain, in 1849, was 24,448,630 pounds, valued at 
$1,420,980. More than twice or thrice that amount of 
money might every year be saved to our country, and to 



EAISIN MAKING IX CALIFORNIA. 189 

California^ by producing, as we are certainly soon destined 
to do, this fruit within our own borders. 



3. Raisin Making in Califoenia. 

Dried Grapes^ which may perhaps be deemed an infe- 
rior kind of raisin, are often prepared in California, from 
the common Mission grape. The bunches when fully ripe, 
are plucked from the vines and hung up, in some sunny 
place, free from moisture, until partially dried, when they 
may be put under shelter, where they will still be kept 
dry ; and are thus preserved through the winter, and until 
the next vintage, with proper care. In the months of 
May and June last, while at Mr. Sathiel Wolfs kill's on 
Putah Creek, we had some of these domestic raisins or 
dried grapes stewed for dessert, as our house-wives 
usually stew or prepare other dried fruits, such as plums, 
cherries, etc., and they were really delicious. They seemed 
equal to the dried Zante currants, such as are imported 
from the Levant. They should be hung up by the stems 
in single clusters, so far apart as not to interfere one with 
another. Some have suggested that they should be hung 
up in a reversed position, that is, with the stems down- 
ward, to admit of the air circulating freely among the 
berries. But in California, at least in the grape regions 
of the interior, there is so little humidity of the atmosphere, 
and the bunches of our grapes so loose, especially our 
Mission grape, that there is little need of a departure from 
the usual mode of hanging them up, as nature does it 
while on the vine. 

Small slats fastened up overhead in any vacant room, or 
out-house, prepared for the purpose, with small wire hooks 



190 RAISINS AND RAISIN MAKING 

on which to suspend the clusters, will perhaps be as good 
a plan as any. At Milton Wolfskill's we noticed these 
dried grapes were hanging in his wine cellar. But this 
was dry and airy. 

The foregoing suggestions refer only to our Mission 
grape, or to those that will not make first quality raisins. 
Of course such grapes as will make a good quality of 
raisin, should be cured in the usual ways of preparing 
raisins, as we have described. 

We know of no country, we repeat, where the climate 
is more favorable to the curing of the raisin, than Cali- 
fornia. The best raisins that are made in Europe are 
those produced in Malaga; and we have shown by our 
rain tables and thermometrical observations that California 
is even more favorable than Malaga, for the maturing of 
the grape and the curing of raisins. Of this fact we are 
also fully assured by the observations we made while 
sojourning for several years in that vicinity, on the Afri- 
can shores of the Mediterranean, where we kept regular 
meteorological tables, as well as from our observations 
while traveling in the south of Spain ; Malaga, being upon 
the borders of the Mediterranean Sea, has a moister 
atmosphere than California, after you get beyond the coast 
range of mountains. In that country we have known of 
many occasions when there was a considerable fall of dew 
in the summer season. Back of the coast range, in Cali- 
fornia, there is no rain or dew or moisture during the whole 
period of maturing the grape and raisin, nor until past 
the vintage season. 

We have heard it objected that some of the fine raisins 
produced by Mr. Bugbey were not sufficiently well-cured 
to keep any great length of time. That may be so ; that 
is the fault of the vintager — not of the climate. They 



IK THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 191 

should be left in the sun and open air until fully dried and 
cured, and then they will keep as long as any others. Mr. 
Bugbey has demonstrated that raisins of the first quality 
can %e made in California ; he uses for the purpose, thus 
far, we believe, a grape called the Faher Szagos, which is 
said by some to be a Hungarian variety, imported from 
that country, but which we have assumed to be the Larga 
of Malaga, although it may have been of Hungarian origin. 
We have elsewhere spoken more fully of the fine grapes 
and raisins of Mr. Bugbey, as exhibited at the State Fair 
of the California Agricultural Society. 



PART X. 

THE VINTAGE ; GATHEEIXG THE GRAPES ; PACKING J 
MARKETING, ETC. 

The Yintage; the "Harvest Home" of the Vintager; an interesting 
episode in his labors ; should not gather his wine-grapes until fully ripe, 
or over-ripe; CoL Haraszthy's mode of gathering grapes ; Mr. Muench's 
reasons- for leaving the grapes on the vines to the latest practical 
period ; grapes for market or table use may be gathered earlier; boxes 
for packing grapes for market ; how they should be packed ; how they 
gather and pack them at the East ; citronized grapes ; preserving 
grapes ; paper pockets for pocketing the grapes. 

OuE vineyard being now in the process of maturing its 
fruit, the vines bending under the weight of their heavy 
clusters of luscious fruit, and presenting a most agreeable 
beauty to the eye and a delicious aroma to the taste, the 
vintager can well look with pride and satisfaction upon the 
work of his own hands, made fruitful and complete by the 
smiles of a beneficent Providence, who has furnished the 
rains and the genial suns, each in their season, and left to 
the husbandman the pleasant duty of gnthering in the 
harvest — of making it truly a ^'^ Harv>est Home ^\juhilee. 

But the vintager must not be so eager to gather in the 
first fruits of the season, as to pluck them before they are 
fully ripe. For the table, or packing for immediate use, 
he need not wait for the fruit to become over-ripe ; but for 
wine making, the longer the grapes remain on the vine the 



\\ 



194 # THE VIXTAGE. 



better, so long as they are gathered in tnne to avoid the 
frosts or rains of autumn. In California there is no danger 
from frosts at all, nor from rains before the last of Novem- 
ber, or fore part of December. And it is thought by some 
vintagers that the frost improves the quality of the wine. 
Col. Haraszthy says : No graphs ought to be gathered for 
making wine until they are ripe, and in fact, over-ripe, ^s 
long as thev do not stick, when handled, to your fingers, 
like honey or syrup, they are not fit to make a generous 
wine. Some persons hurry on the vintage, in fear that the 
frost will hurt the crop. This is erroneous ; the frost im- 
proves the ripened grapes, and makes the wine far supe- 
rior to that of grapes gathered befoi-e the frost. The world 
renowned king of the wines, as the Tokay is called, is made 
in Hungary from grapes gathered very often under tlip 
snow, and never before a good frost has shriveled them. 

This, we think, is of too extreme a latitude to allow of 
its being generally followed, as Col. H. has undoubtedly 
discovered, l)y the fact that he makes very good wine in- 
regions of country where there is never any snow. 

We think Col. H.'s mode of gathering the grapes is 
simple and expeditious. He says : One man w^ith a basket 
can gather from one thousand five hundred to two thou- 
sand pounds of grapes a day in this country, if there is a 
cart close by to take the gi-apes to the press, provided the 
vines are summer pruned and not entangled. Persons 
having small vineyards will do well to gather their grapes 
in the morning, and not later than nine o'clock ; for if 
gathered in the heat of the day, the fermentation will be 
too vehement, which is not good for making the best of 
wines ; but when the vineyard is large, other remedies 
must be employed to prevent a too hasty fermentation. 

Mr. Muench, the Missouri Yiniculturist to whom we 



GATHEPaNG THE GRAPES. 195 

have several times referred in this Work, gives the follow- 
ing reasons why grapes for wine making should be allowed 
to remain on the vines to the latest practicable period. He 
says: As the time for the grapes to rij^en approaches, the 
acid in the grapes diminishes rapidly, and just as rapidly 
the saccharine matter increases. When the grapes, from 
their color, taste and softness, appear to be fully ripe, if 
one is not hurried up by the late season, and if there is no 
other considerable damage or loss to be apprehended, let 
the grapes hang for eight days more after maturing, by 
which the quality of the wine is often improved one hun- 
dred per cent. Grapes which are too watery, and it being 
not practicable to let them hang, may be somewhat more 
evaporated by being spread for a time on hurdles or straw 
in an airy place, or let them partly shrink, in a drying- 
house. Such wine will be heavier, but not more aromatic. 
In this way the dry wines are made. The grapes should 
not be harvested in rain or dew. The clusters are best 
cut off by scissors. The clusters, when gathered, should 
be carefully examined, and all decayed, green or dried 
berries removed. The transportation, where grapes are 
not very thin-skinned, can be made in baskets. Light 
water-proof wooden tubs are considered better. Where 
clusters ripen unevenly, as is often the case with the 
Catawba, the ripe and uni-ipe should be kept separate. 

In California we have no difficulty of this kind, as our 
grapes ripen so uniformly, that it is rarely that they will 
need assorting on that account. 

The Buena Vista Yinicultural Society state the cost of 
picking and loading their grapes, in 1864, at a fraction less 
than |3 per 1,000 vines. 

Grapes intended for table use, or for marketing, m boxes, 



196 THE VINTAGE. ' 

should, of course, be gathered before they become over- 
ripe. 

Boxes for Packing Grapes. — Grapes brought into the 
San Francisco market, from the vineyards in this part of 
the State, are packed in boxes containing about fifty 
pounds. The process of packing is very simple. A large 
sheet of white or brown paper is laid into the bottom of the 
box, the grapes packed in close, another paper put over 
the top, the cover pressed down, nailed up, and sent off 
without further ceremony. 

Those, however, coming from Los Angeles, and other 
distant places, are generally packed in dry saw-dust ; as 
are, also, some that are repacked in San Francisco, to be 
sent some distance into the country. In this latter case, ', 
the size of the boxes varies according to the quantities 
desired to be sent. 

In case saw-dust be used, it should be of a deodorized 
kind that will not injure the flavor of the grapes. 

As showing the injurious effects upon the flavor of the 
grapes by packing them in saw-dust not entirely deodor- 
ized, we refer to a remark in the Transactions of the New 
York State Agricultural Society of 1864, where the Secre- 
tary, B. P. Johnson, Esq., in describing a box of grapes 
received from W. B. O shorn of Los Angles, says : The 
grapes arrived in safety, and were exceedingly fine in ap- 
pearance, several of the clusters weighing 2 lbs. 2\ ounces. 
Having been packed in redwood saw dust, the flavor was 
much affected, and the true flavor could not he determined. 

Modes of Packing Grapes at the East. — In an Easteni 
Agricultural paper w^e find the following mode of boxing 
grapes described. The boxes used in packing grapes for 
shipping are of different sizes, holding from five to twenty- 



PACKING, PRESERVING. 191 

five pounds. They are sold, according to their capacity, 
usually at one cent a pound, a five pound box costing 
five cents, and so on for larger sizes. Establishments 
for their manufacture are found in all of the principal 
grape reigons. In packing, the top is first nailed on, 
and, the bottom being taken off", a sheet of thin white 
paper is put in. Whole bunches of grapes are first laid in, 
being packed as closely as possible without jamming them. 
The vacant places left, after putting in as many whole 
bunches as the box will contain, are filled with parts of 
bunches ; and lastly, wdth single grapes ; so that all the 
space is occupied. Another sheet of paper is now laid on, 
and the bottom nailed down. By this means, when the 
boxes are opened, only entire bunches are found at the 
top. 

Cltro7iized Grapes. — At a meeting of the Merrimac Hor- 
ticultural Society, St. Louis, Mo., Mr. Haven exhibited a 
jar of citronized grapes, made of green gi-apes, a preserve 
that, while it is sweet, has an acid that makes it unusually 
agreeable to the taste of every one. We give the recipe 
for preparing it : Prepare clarified syrup by dissolving eight 
pounds of sugar with one quart of water, and then boil in 
this syrup eight pounds of green Catawba and Isabella 
grapes until they begin to shrink, when they should be 
opened on dishes to cool. Keep the syrup boiling, and 
whsn approaching the usual consistency of good syrup, re- 
place the grapes, boil about ten minutes, when they will 
become fit for the jars and for use during the Summer 
and Fall months. If to be kept for years, it will be 
necessary to add a quarter of a pound of sugar. California 
grapes will, we presume, require no sugar. 

To Preserve Grapes. — Pick when in blue bloom, fully 
ripe, in a dry, warm day ; lay the clusters carefuUy in boxes 



198 THE VIISTTAGE. 

holding from 30 to 50 pounds, with layers of paper be- 
tween each layer of grapes ; cover, and put in a cool, dry 
cellar, and they will keep fresh until May, 

3Iarketl)ig Grapes. — The question is often asked, says 
the Country Gentleman, why certain lucky vineyard men 
receive from 20 to 40 cents per pound for their entire crop, 
while others less favored are glad to accept 8, 10 or 12 
cents? The answer must be, "Diligence is the mother 
of good luck." The best grape raisers, after they have 
selected the best sorts and the best soil, still give as- 
siduous attention to three great points, viz : 1. Good and 
constant cultivation. 2. Careful and judicious pruning, 
and thinning out- defective fruit. 3. Careful gathering and 
the most careful packing. 

Among all the grape raisers of the State of New York, 
none, as far as we know, have been more successful than 
E. M. Bradley, of East Bloomfield, near Rochester. In 
answer to some inquiries, he has kindly furnished us the 
following statement of his management. 

Permit me here to say that the market value of the grape 
is more dependent upon judicious handling^ than that 
of any other fruit with which I am conversant. While the 
grape is a fruit peculiarly constituted to endure almost an 
unlimited amount of abuse in handliiig, yet no other fruit 
so richly pays every iota of caie that may be expended 
upon it. The most casual observer of our great fruit 
markets cannot but liave noticed the wide range of prices 
in all kinds of fruit, produced by a difference in method and 
style of handling. And no fruit with which I am acquain- 
ted, suffers more from neglect in growing and marketing, 
or more amply repays thorough husbandry, than the 
grape. 

Thorough pulverization of the soil to a liberal depth 



PACKING a:nt) marketing. 199 

every iceeJc dnring the groioing season of the vine, a sys- 
tematic thinning of fruit, and shoving off all superfluous 
growth, will secure a well matured crop of grapes. As 
soon as fully ripe, (not before,) the fruit should be care- 
fully picked, and laid in shallow, well ventilated drawers, 
carried to the packing house in a spring wagon, and placed 
in rr.cks or cribs over resfisters so constructed as to afford 
plenty of fresh air, but not exposed to light, or artificial 
heat. Here the fruit may remain for months in safety, and 
retain its plumpness and bloom perfectly. When aesira- 
ble ^.o send to market, the drawers are taken from the rack 
in tbe store room, and placed upon the tables in the packing 
rooms, where the fruit is carefully assorted, all green ber- 
ries and the superfluous stems removed, and packed closely 
in paper pockets or wooden boxes, and immediately shipped. 
The packing rooms should be well lighted. 

Small paper pockets, containing from one to three 
pounds, snugly packed in wooden cases, two dozen pockets 
in a case, are found to carry the fruit more safely to 
market than larger packages. The cases should be as 
nearly air tight as possible. I have sent many tons, packed 
in this manner, to Charleston, S. C, ; ]Srash\ille, Tenn. ; 
Quincy, Bloomington and Dubuque, on the Mississippi 
River, and many other towns, over equally hazardous 
routes with entire safety. 

Good grapes, neatly packed in fancy paper pockets, will 
always sell at remunerative prices, however much the 
market may be " glutted " with fruit put up in a slovf^.nly 
manner. 

These are the same kind of " paper pockets," we pre- 
sume, that are used in San Francisco, by retail fruit deal- 
ers, for all kinds of small fruits, as well as grapes. 



PART XI. 

WINE-MAKING AND ITS INCIDENTALS. 

Different modes of making wine ; var!ous kinds of apparatus and wine 
presses ; Dr. Mottier's mode of "wine making in Ohio ; Mr. Long- 
worth's ditto; wine making operations of tlie Buena Yista Vinicul- 
tural Society erf Sonoma, Cahfornia ; what it costs ; the produce por 
1,000 vines; products of the vincvard; amount of wine made in tlie 
town of Sonoma, in 1865 ; number of vines, classifj-ing wines ; wine 

• cellars ; a new idea for wine growers ; wine casks ; a good sug- 
gestion. 

The modes of making wine are almost as various as are 
the opinions of those who engage in its preparation; we 
will not say manufacture; as wine should not be manu- 
factured. It should be allowed to make itself. But it is, 
of course, necessary to give it a right start. 

Various machines and processes have been invented for 
the purpose of crushing and expressing the juice. One of 
the latest inventions we have beard of is a crusher with 
India rubber covered cylinders, which crush the berry 
without breaking the seed, which is a desirable consid- 
eration. We have not seen the machine, but believe it 
was on exhibition at the late State Fair. 

It is deemed unnecessary here to go into a minute des- 
cription of the various machines used in the process of wine 
making ; or to give the preference to one over another. 
Whenever the vintager is making his arrangements for a 
vineyard, and for Avine making on a large scale, he will 



202 WINE MAKING 

find it to his interest to examine all the most improved 
kinds of apparatus, and choose for himself. 

The following directions for making wine from the grape 
are given by Dr. J. E. Mottier of Cincinnati, Ohio. 

In order to make good wine, it is necessary to have a 
good cellar, clean casks, press, etc. First of all, have your 
grapes well ripened ; gather them in dry weather, and 
pick out carefully all the unripe berries, and all the dried 
and damaged ones ; then mash and grind them with a mill, 
if you have a proper mill for the purpose. Be careful not 
to set your mill so close as to mash the seed, for they will 
give a bad taste to the wine. If you wish to have wine of 
a rose color, let the grapes remain in a large tub a few 
hours, before pressing. The longer time you leave the 
grapes without pressing, after they are mashed, the more 
color the wine will have. For pressing the grapes, any 
press will answer, provided it is kept clean and sweet. 

After you have collected the must in a clean tub from 
the press, have it transferred into the cask in the cellar. 
Fill the cask within ten inches of the bung ; then place one 
end of a siphon, made for that purpose, in the bung, and fix 
it air tight ; the other end must be placed in a bucket con- 
taining cold water. The gas then passes off from the cask 
without the air coming in contact with the wine, which 
would destroy that fine grape flavor, which makes our 
Catawba so celebrated. 

When properly made the must will undergo fermenta- 
tion. Keep the end of the siphon that is in the water full 
four inches deep, so as to exclude the air from the wine. 
When it has fermented, which will be in fifteen days, fill 
the cask with the same kind of wine and bung it loosely for 
one week ; then make it tight. Nothing more is needed 
till it is clear, which, if all is right, will be in January or 



IX OniO AND ELSEWHEEE. 203 

February next. Then, if perfectly clear, rack it off into 
another cask, and bung it up tightly till wanted. If the 
wine remains in the cask till Fall, about November, it will 
improve by racking again. Be sure to always have sweet, 
clean casks. Do not burn too much brimstone in the cask. 
I have seen much wine injured by excessive use of brim- 
stone, generally by new beginners. For my part I make 
little use of it. 

You can make different qualities of wine with the same 
grape, by separating the different runs of the same pressing. 
The first run is the finest, if you want to make use of it the 
first season ; but it will not keep long without losing its 
fine qualities. 

To make good, sound wine, that will improve by age, 
the plan is to mix all up together. The very last run will 
make it rough, but it will have better body and better 
flavor when two or three yeans old, and will improve for a 
number of years. The first run will not be good after two 
or three years. 

I have fully tested the different ways of making and 
keeping wine these last twenty-five years. 

The following on winemaking was written forDowning's 
Horticulturist, some years since, by the late IST. Longworth 
of Cincinnati, Ohio, then the most experienced vintager in 
this country : 

We gather our grapes at full maturity ; carefully pick off 
all green, rotten and decayed grapes ; pass them as speedily 
as possible through a machine, (thoroughly seasoned, 
and all possible taste from the wood extracted,) to separate 
the stems from the grapes, and mash them, without break- 
ing the seed. Instead of placing them in a towel and bowl, 
we place them on a large clean press, in which not a nail 
is driven, and the wood of which has been fully seasoned; 



204 AVINE SIAKING 

and even if of beach wood, should not allow a particle of 
the taste of the wood to remain in it. Press it as speedily as 
possible, keeping the last hard pressing separate from ihe 
earlier runnings. Place the mws^ in clean casks, from which 
no taste could be obtained from the wood, or any previous 
brandy or wine holdings, unless from liquor from the same 
kind of grape. We immediately place the cask in a cool 
cellar, do not fill it entirely, but as soon as the fermenta- 
tion commences, stop the passage of the strength and aroma 
of the grape as far as possible, by putting in a tight bung, 
through which passes a crooked siphon into the cask to 
receive the air, and the opposite end of the crooked siphon 
is placed in a vessel of water ; and the siphon is continued 
until the fermentation is nearly over, when the siphon is 
taken out and a tight bung di'iven in, giving air by a small 
gimlet hole two or three times a day, for three or four 
days ; after which all air is excluded till the wine is clear, 
when it is racked, and the cask thereafter kept full and 
tight. If we wish a superior article, we do not deem it 
fit for bottling till four or five years old. If fining were 
necessary, and isinglass or the white of eggs, to fine a pipe, 
cost ^20, we should never think of using beech chips. 

Wine 3Ialcmg Operations of the Buena Vista Vinicid- 
tural Society of Sonoma^ California. — The Buena Vista 
vineyards are believed to be the most extensive of any one 
establishment of the kind in this or any other country — the 
largest in the world. The following interesting statement 
of its operations has been furnished by the managers, whose 
reliability and general statements may be depended upon : 

The property of the Society includes a body of land of 
over 6,000 acres, of which the vineyard occupies 645 acres. 
The number of vines planted is over a million (1,128,120). 



IN CALIFOENIA. 205 

At the last vintage about 103,800 of these were in bearing. 
These varied in age from one to thirty years — aln%ost one- 
half of them only being of full bearing age. These latter 
stood in various parts of the 645 acres of vineyard land — 
the recent plantings having been for the most part made 
between the rows of old vines. So f^ir as conditions of 
soil and aspect are concerned, therefore, the whole ground 
has been tested by the vintage of 1864. 

The vines are managed under a system of extreme sim- 
plicity ; no staking or training is required, and an extraor- 
dinary economy of labor in their cultivation is attained. 
They are planted in rows from three and a half to four and 
a half feet apart each way, and are cultivated by the Chi- 
nese laborers in the manner known as the flat way of culti- 
vating Indian corn in the Eastern States. The soil being 
friable, flat, and free from stones, both horse and hand- 
hoeing are performed with great ease and rapidity ; and 
the total expense of cultivation in 1864, was at the rate of 
but six dollars and three cents per acre, including the 
priming of vines, and an allowance for superintendence, 
and the wear and tear of the implements used. 

As the young vines grow to full bearing size they occupy 
more room, and hereafter a larger part of the cultivation 
will need to be by hand. The expense of cultivating the 
older and closer planted part of the vineyard does not 
appear in the accounts furnished us, distinctly from that of 
the whole. We think it safe to assume, however, that the 
expense of cidtivation need never be more than four times 
as much for the whole vineyard as it was in 1864, in which 
case 824.47 per acre, which is at the rate of $14 per 1,000 
vines, may be considered a maximum rate for the expenses 
of cultivation. 

T^e picking of the grapes, and the loading of them in 



206 WINE MAKING 

wagons, cost, in 1864, a fraction less than a rate of |3 per 
1,000 villus. 

The following is a statement of the rate of production of 
50,000 fiiU-bearinsc vines, as nearly as it can he determined, 
in 1864 — a year of extraordinary dryness and miproduc- 
tiveness : 

Production. Hate per 1,000 ViTies — Gals. 

"White Wine for Champagne '. 167 

White Wine 333 

Red Wine 160 

Brandy 16 

Of the bearing vines in 1864, only 16,000 were planted 
before 1858, and none of those since planted bore as fully 
at the last vintage as they may be expected to hereafter. 
The youngest plantation then produced, according to the 
Superintendent's estimate, but fourteen gallons of white 
wine per 100 vines, while those planted before 1858 pro- 
duced fifty-seven gallons per 100, and those planted pre- 
vious to 1855, eighty g-allons per 100. In previous years 
the production of the latter has been larger ; and it is 
believed that an average production of eighty-six gallons 
per 100 for mature vines of the Spanish or Old California 
variety, and seventy-one gallons per 100 for vines of varie- 
ties recently introduced from Europe (which forms about 
one-ninth of the vines planted), may be calculated on. An 
estimate of the future production of the vineyard, there- 
fore, based upon the foregoing table of the yield of 50,000 
of the older vines in 1864, must be regarded as moderate. 

The whole expense of wine making, from the field to the 
cask stored in the cellar, was, in 1864, at the rate of $20 
per 1,000 vines, or four cents per gallon of white wines 
produced — superintendence, interest on cost, wear and tear 
of casks and implements included. 



IN CALIFOENIA. 207 

The distillery expenses amount to a rate of ten cents per 
gallon of brandy produced, or for sixteen gallons, the pro- 
duction of 1,000 vines, ll.GO. 

The machinery being designed for the larger work that 
is expected to be required of it in the future, a reduction 
is expected to occur in the above stated, rate of expenses 
of wine making equal to at least half a cent per gallon. 
It is possible, however, that imforeseen difficulties may 
occur in the management of the increased business ; and 
we therefore adopt $20 per 1,000 vines as the established 
rate of expenses in wine making. 

The buildings and machinery used in the process of wine 
and brandy making, are of substantial construction, and 
well adapted foj* the accomplishment of a large amount of 
work, with great economy of current expense. A steam 
engine of thirty-horse powder is employed, and the wine at 
different stages of the process is put, by a force-pump, 
through hose and metallic pipes, the whole extent of which 
employed is 900 feet. The apparatus used is an improved 
arrangement of that recently adopted in the best French 
vineyards. The cost of the whole works, including the 
press-house, the distillery, and the cellar, with their equip- 
ments complete, has been '340,000. 

We recapitulate as follows : 

Maximum rate of Expenses per tlwusand Vines, close planted and full hear- 
ing, with a proluciion of five hundred gallons of White Wine, one hundred 
and sixty of Bed Wine, and sixteen of Brandy. 

Vineyard expenses $14 00 

Housing the grapes 3 00 

Wine making and cellarage 20 00 

Distillery expenses 1 (JO 

Total. $B8 GO 



208 WINiS MAKING 

At the rate thus established, the annual expenses of the 
whole Vineyard of 1,000,000 vines now planted, when in 
full bearing condition, will be $38,700 00 

Add twenty per cent for contingences 1,740 00 

Total for one million vines $46,4:-J:0 00 

The total production of the viDeyard in full bearing, at 
the rate previously determined, will be — 

Galls. 

White Wine for Champagne 167,000 

White Wine 833,000 

Red Wine ■. 160,000 

Brandy , 16,000 

The California market is at present overstocked with new 
native wine of inferior quality. The better class of native 
light wines has never been put in the general market ; 
they are unknown to the public; and from the present 
price of ordinary wines, nothing can be inferred as to their 
value when they shall have been introduced in large quan- 
tities, and their superior quality generally appreciated. 
For these reasons, it is impossible to form an estimate, 
with much confidence, of the value of the production of the 
vineyard. We are informed that some thousand gallons of 
the white wines of 1863 has been sold in New York at a 
price which leaves ninety-two cents as the net price of the 
wine in the cellar. At this price, the value of a vintage 
would be $500,000 — a fair allowance being made for the 
red wine and brandy. 

To establish a minimum, however, we estimate the value 
of the whole, for Brandy^ as follows : 



IN CAUFOKNTA, 209 

Galls. 
449,800 gals. T\Tiite Wine, reduced 6 to 1, is of Brandy, 14,96G 
160,000 gals. Red Wine, reduced 6 to 1, is of Erandj. . . 26,G6G 



Total 101,632 

Add Brand}'- previously provided 10,666 

Total production in Brandy, 112,298 

Which, at the extremely low price of $1,50 a gal., is $168,44 'Z 

Deduct distillery expenses 10,163 

Minimiun value of vintage $158,284 

Deduct yearly expenses 49,440 

Minin;um not profit per annum $108,844 

Of the profit to be found in the manufacture of cham- 
pagne, in which the officers of the Society have great con- 
fidence, and which has been commenced under the man- 
agement of an experienced person, we have said nothing — 
preferring to confine our observations, as far as possible, to 
the facts of the business which has been established by 
actual experience. 

That the whole expenses of wine making, from the field 
to the cask, stored in the cellar, should be hvit four cents 
per gallon, as set forth in the foregoing statement, has 
been doubted by some people, who have given the subject 
some consideration. But the facilities possessed by this 
Association, in consequence of their extensive business, 
and extent of machinery, may enable them to do it at the 
rates stated. They certainly ought to know best. 

We believe that five cents a gallon will be a fair allow- 
ance for the expense, in ordinary cases. It is not supposed 
that every small vintager will be able, or will need go to the 
expense of extensive machinery, etc., for wine making. In 



210 -WINE MAKING. 

every neighborhood wliere there are vineyards of any 
great extent, there will doubtless be wine presses and all 
the necessary conveniences established for the purpose of 
taking in and manufacturing the grapes from the neigh 
boring vineyards, either on shares, or for a certain price per 
gallon, or to purchase the grapes outright, and relieve 
the vintager of all further trouble or responsibility. 

On tl)e subject of the cost of manufacturing wines, Mr. 
Arpad Haraszthy assures us that himself and partner made 
30,000 gallons one season for their neighbors in Sonoma, 
gathering the grapes from tlie vineyard, and putting them 
through every necessary process until made into good 
wine, for 8 cents per gallon, and they consider they made 
a profit of 100 per cent. 

The 'W/nte Wines of Sonoma are chiefly made from the 
Mission grape. The Royal Muscadine, and the White 
Rissling, are used to some extent, and make an excellent 
wine; but they are too shy bearers, in Sonoma, to be 
considered profitable wine grapes, in thai locality. 

The Bed Table Wines are made from the Mission grape, 
also from the Zinfindal, the Black St. Peter's, and a grape 
called Chagres Heneling, of which we have no particular 
history. 

The number of gallons of wine made in the town of So- 
noma, in the season of 1865, is stated at 126,844 ; number 
of vines, 2,438,000. The amounts for the year just passed, 
will greatly exceed these figures. 

Clarlfijing Wines. — On this subject the Rural Ameri- 
can has the following : After grape must has undergone 
Its great fermentation, and is barreled and stored away, a 
second or slow fermentation usually takes place, and is 
allowed to continue up to a certain point, which difiers for 
different wines. As long as a particle of sugar remains, 



A KEW IDEA FOK WIXE GKOWEES. 211 

and a particle of vegetable, fermentive matter, the secon- 
dary or slow fermentation may, under favoring circum- 
Btances, take place. To whatever extent it may have gone, 
the resulting wine is turbid, because of opaque vegetable 
matter left floating in the condition of minute shreds. 
This vegetable matter may deposit, if sufficient time be 
given, or it may not, the result being dependent upon the 
nature of the wine. If it deposit naturally, the addition 
of finings may be dispensed with, racking into another 
cask sufficing to achieve the desired object ; if otherwise, 
some sort of finings must be used for this purpose, from 
time to time, such as white of egg, milk, gelatine, isinglass, 
etc. Whatever the clarifying material used in any par- 
ticular case, the deposit should be allowed time to settle, 
and the clear wine racked offi 

A JVew Idea for Wine Growers. — The Alta California, 
of a recent date, contained the translation of an article 
from the French, on which that paper comments thus : We 
publish this morning a communication containing a trans- 
lation of an article in a French paper giving an account of 
an alleged discovery of great importance to wine growers. 
The discovery is, that wine heated to a temperature of 113° 
Fahrenheit will not turn sour when exposed to the air. It 
is well known that heat above 100° is less favorable to 
ferinentation than 70° ; but whether the influence on wine 
is so great as Mons. Pastuer asserts, may be doubted. It 
is a very easy matter, however, to try the experiment, by 
putting wine after it is bottled into water, and heating the 
water gradually up to 150°. Then let a corked bottle, 
half full of the wine which has been heated, stand for three 
days in a warm room, side by side with a bottle half full 
of similar wine, which has not been heated, and at the end 
of that time a comparison of the two wines will show the 



212 WINE CASKS. 

influence of heating. M> Pastuer's idea is that the heating 
will have a preservative influence on wine after it has 
passed through the vinous fermentation ; not that the 
quality of wine will be improved by heating, or that for- 
mentation, either vinous or acetic, will be entirely pre- 
vented. 

Wine CasJcs. — One of the most expensive items of wine 
making is that of casks for holding wine after it is made ; 
it having been the custom to suppose that there was no 
material in California suitable to make them of; and it has 
been brought from the East, at great expense. We have 
been told by those who have made the trial here, that there 
is no difficulty in obtaining an abundance of material suit- 
able for the purpose, in our own State. On this subject, 
the Daily Bulletin, of this city, has the following judicious, 
truthful and pertinent remarks, which we trust will be 
duly pondered and acted upon by those interested ; 

Wine Casks of Home Manufacture. — It is said that 
there is no little difficulty in procuring wine casks to hold 
the product of this year's vintage, especially in the 
southern part of the State. These casks cost, at present, 
from 15 cents to 20 cents per gallon, and are not readily 
procured at that price. 

It is as easy to produce the wine casks from our own 
resources as it is to produce the grapes or the wine ; and 
it is singular that there should be abundance on the one 
hand and scarcity on the other. For many years nearly 
all the staves for barrels were brought into the country 
under the mistaken impression that none could be produced 
here. And even now, large quantities of shooks are 
imported, which are not a whit better than those made at 
home. There are several sorts of oak growing in this 
country which make the best of staves. The white, free- 



WINE CASKS. • 213 

grained oak, the bark of which is used by tanners, is easily- 
worked into staves, than which there are none better 
brought here. Besides, it has been ascertained by careful 
experiments that staves from redwood make excellent 
wine casks. The acid which it contains is easily separated 
by steaming, and by other processes both simple and 
efiective. Oak staves require treatment of this sort to pre- 
vent staining and the " wood taste." Redwood timber at 
present is both cheap and abundant. It is easily worked, 
and resists decay better than any other timber grown in 
the State. Casks made of this timber are light, strong 
and tight, and when " steamed," no effect of taste or color 
is perceptible in the wine. Large vats, tanks and cisterns 
are made of this timber, and for all such uses there is 
nothing equal to it on the coast. 

The manufacture of wine casks of all sizes is worthy of 
the attention of men of enterprise. Something has been 
done in this way already. But what is wanting is an 
establishment with all the requisite machinery, so that the 
business can be carried on with system and economy, and 
on such a scale that it would ensure the filling of large 
orders at short notice. Such an establishment would 
acquire a reputation for the excellence of its work, and its 
wares would control the market, as powder, leather, 
brooms, and other articles of home manufacture now do. 
At 5 to 7 cents per gallon for casks as they* run, from a 
keg to a puncheon, and with no lack of orders, a manufac- 
tory of this kind ought to be successful. Besides, the same 
establishment having once its machinery set up and every- 
thing in order, could make every variety of cask, either of 
oak, redwood, or of any other material required. Cedar 
tubs and pails, now made here, and of the best quality, 
illustrate how easy a matter it might be to establish a pros- 



214 WINE CELLAES. 

perous business in the manufacture of wine casks of such 
a quality, and at such prices, as to leave nothing further to 
be desired in this respect by the wine growers. If, as has 
been stated, there are not enough of barrels and pipes in 
the State to hold the wine that might be produced this 
year, it is certain that there is a clear field for the branch 
of business suggested, on a large scale. And the sooner 
we are able to supply our own wants in this particular the 
better. 

We repeat the hope that the foregoing suggestions, and 
the subject on which it treats, will receive the attention 
their importance deserves. 

Wine intended to be kept any considerable length of 
time, should be put into wooden vessels, or casks, then it 
will improve by age to an extent that it will not, if kept 
in bottles. 

Wine Cellars. — From the Transactions of the Illinois 
State Horticultural Society, the annexed directions on the 
subject of suitable wine cellars is obtained : The wine 
cellar is very important, as without a good cellar you can- 
not expect to keep your wine. It should be dry enough 
below the ground to keep an even temperature in summer 
and winter. It is generally made in the north side of a 
hill, and arched over ; say twelve feet deep, so that the 
door is even with the ground, with abundant ventilation 
to keep it dry. The casks are laid on wooden frames, 
leaving abundant room to get between the two rows, and 
about three feet from the ground. They are then filled 
with the must, preferring the under fermentation ; that is, 
not filling the casks quite full, so that when the must 
ferments everything will remain in the cask; others pre- 
ferring fermentation ahove^ i. 6., filling up the casks full, so 
that the skins, etc., which may vet be in the must, may be 



WIXE CELLARS. 215 

thrown out of the bunghole by the fermentation. Both 
methods have their advantages, but I prefer the latter, with 
a very simple contrivance to exclude the air. This con- 
sists of a tin tube, built in the form of a double elbow, of 
which one end fits tightly in the bunghole, and the other 
into a dish of water, to be set on one end of the cask, 
through which the gas escapes. 

The wine then remains in the cask until fermentation is 
over, when the bung is closed tightly, and it is left until 
perfectly clear, when it may be racked off into other casks. 
This should be done in February or January. Rack it off 
into good, clean casks, taking good care to thoroughly 
scour the casks in which the must has fermented, as the 
lees of the wine are very slimy, and must be carefully 
scrubbed off. A second fermentation will ensue in May or 
June, after which the wine should be racked a2:ain, and it 
is then fit to bottle or remain in the casks. 



PART XII. 

CALIFOEIOA WINES AND WINE VINEYARDS. 

Excellent quality of pure California wines ; bogus imitations denounced ; 
Report of a Committee of the Horticultural Society of St. Louis on Sam- 
ples of (reputed) California Wines ; they reject the bogus, and approve 
the pure specimens; chemical analysis of California wines by Dr. 
Wetherell, of the Smithsonian Institute ; New Orleans Delta's, and 
the New York Home Journal's, opinion of California wines ; Mr. Bug- 
bey's exhibit of, at the State Fair at Sacramento, in 1866 ; exhibition 
of, by several vintagers, at the San Joaquin District Agricultural Fair 
of 1866; wine vineyards of Los Angeles; Anaheim; Angelica wine, 
and how made ; Burgundy wiue, made at the Sollah Vineyard, Placer 
County ; wines of Solano County. 

The good reputation to wMch the wines of California 
are entitled from the innate .fine qualities, the rich saccha- 
rine properties, the delicious aroma, which characterize our 
pure wines, has been greatly impaired by the impositions 
practised by jugglers in the business, who have attempted 
to improve upon Nature, or rather to improve their pecun- 
iary condition by palming off upon the public the bogus, 
doctored adulterations wliich are so often met with in the 
wine markets, especially in the Eastern States. An exam- 
ple of this kind has recently come to our notice. From a 
Report made by a Committee of the St. Louis Horticultural 
Society, in the month of September, 1866, on tlie subject 
of some specimens of California wines presented to them 
for their examination, we make the following extracts : 
10 



218 CALIF0EN7A WINES 

Your Committee came together to examine five bottles 
of wine referred to them by the society at the last meeting. 
These bottles were labeled as follows, viz. : Hock, Mound 
Vineyard, Port, Sherry and Angelica, all five bottles pur- 
porting to be from Lake Vineyard, Los Angeles, Califor- 
nia. Your committee were at once impressed by two 
peculiarities in these wines, quite different from any native 
or pure European wines they have ever tasted. First, 
they were very sweet, and, second, they were very strong 
in alcoholic product, which appeared and smelt marvelously 
like brandy. Not being able to decide upon their real 
quality from having no standard with which to compare 
them, your committee invited together some of the best 
judges of wine in the city, who are not members of the 
society, together with a few members, including our worthy 
President. The labels on the bottles had all been carefully 
removed, and these gentlemen, having no knowledge of 
the source from which the wines came, were invited, after 
a careful examination, to give their opinion in writing. 
This request each one, without consulting the opinion of 
any other, cheerfully complied with. The result was per- 
fectly unanimous. All agreed that, while these samples of 
wine were strong in alcohol, and to some tastes might be 
considered pleasant, they were not the pure, unadulterated 
juice of the g;-apo. One of these gentlemen, who is per- 
fectly familiar with different foreign and native wines, con- 
tented himself by writing, " Please set before me wines 
such as come right from the press. I know nothing about 
cooked wines, such as I believe these to be." Another, 
himself an eminent physician of this city, declared that to 
him these wines all appeared to be "doctored." Your 
committee cannot avoid coming unanimously to the same 
conclusion. They do not consider these samples of wine 



AND WINE VINEYARDS. 219 

to be the pure unadulterated juice of the grape, and admit 
a possibility that they are not the product of the Califor- 
■nia vineyards. They are rather confirmed in their convic- 
tions by examining a sample of pure California wine, 
imported from that State for private use by Morris I. Lipp- 
man of this city, and courteously furnished the committee 
for examination by that gentleman. This sample exhibited 
the finest characteristics of the white or amber-colored 
wines of Southern Europe, with the distinct grape taste, 
and was in all respects totally unlike the samples which 
your committee had under examination. They cannot 
therefore conscientiously advise the St. Louis Horticultural 
Society, by indorsing these wines, which are said to be for 
sale in large quantities in this city, to commend them for 
general use by our citizens. 

Very respectfully submitted, 
(Signed), W. F. Cozzens, 

D. F. Jewett, 
Chaeles Peabodt, 

Committee. 

This one bottle, pronounced pure wine, was from Sono- 
ma County, in this State. It is barely possible that this 
committee, inasmuch as they did not make an analysis of 
the wines before them, may have been somewhat mistaken, 
not being familiar with the peculiar qualities of our Cali- 
fornia wines. 

Analysis of California Wines. — That the true qualities 
of our wines may be understood, we give, from an exami- 
nation of Dr. Charles M. Wetherell, of the Smithsonian 
Institute, the subjoined Analysis of California wines ; 



220 



CALIFORNIA WINES 









o 


f su- 
ty of 
)hol. 


-2 * 


1.^ 




A 


■sJ 


<■-. ■ 


^ 02 « 


"O m 


:=n 




§ 


l^^ 


« O 


« s * 


, bu 


. cj 




1 






1- ~ c 

5 03 1) 




C3 "3 




ii 


it' 03 


— a, 


rf- '■»-» 




'-I <n 




O 

'S 


0; a 


S5 

B 
> 


Calculate 
gar from 
the wine. 


t. a 

^ a 


3 cJ 

0.500 


* Sonoma Valley white wine 


0.9933 


1.0050 


8* 


1 


Trace. 


* Ditto red wine vintage, 1858 


0.9944 


1.0078 


10 


2 


'' 


0.416 


* Angelica 


0.9812 
1.0500 
1.0515 
0.9893 


).0655 
1.1730 
1.0718 
1.0074 


15 
19 
161 
14 


16 

18 

17 

2 


16.13 

16.63 

17.24 

0.83 


0.259 
0.259 
0.314 
0.389 


t Muscatel 


f Angelica. . ... 


California Hock, vintage, 1860 


Port 


1.0086 


1.0305 


18 


Tf 


6.76 


0.324 





* Presented by Senator McDougal. t Presented by Perkins and Stern. 



It will thus be seen that our better class of California 
wines are very rich in grape sugar, as well as grape alcohol, 
two prominent and important ingredients in making good 
wines, and obviating the necessity of using either cane 
sugar or extraneous alcoholic preparations. 

It is this excellence and virgin purity of our California 
wines, in their elemental state, that makes them in such 
demand, for medicinal purposes, as well as for sacramen- 
tal uses. We understand that the Medical Department of 
the United States Army ordered the use of our native 
wines in their hospitals, where they could readily be ob- 
tained. 

The New Orleans Delta has the following on the subject 
of 

California Wines. — As to the California wines, who 
that has ever tasted the prodigious and luscious grapes of 
Los Angeles will believe that New York or Ohio can com- 
pete with California in the quality of their wines. The 
principal trouble with the California grapes is their excess 



AND WIXE VINETAKDS. 221 

of saccharine matter, the study has been how to make light 
wine, such as will ripen in three years. The California 
*' port " is " poor," simply because the call for it is so great 
for medicinal purposes, that it has not yet been permitted 
to acquire age requisite for that class of wine to attain its 
proper qualities as a beverage of luxury. 

California Wines / Their Popularity at the East. — The 
N'ew York Home Journal says : The opening of the Cali- 
fornia wine region is most opportune. There, in the virgin 
soil and the bland atmosphere of the sunny slopes of the 
Pacific, the vine flourishes in all its pristine health and 
vigor. It grows almost without human care, spreading its 
branches over the earth, and bearing its rich loads of fruit 
year after year, scarcely failing once in a century. Cali- 
fornia is unmistakably one of Nature's most carefully pre- 
pared wine gardens. It is not surprising that these wines 
have become so popular in this country, and are taking the 
place of all others. To persons whose tastes have been 
perverted by the fiery, vitiated compounds which pass in 
the market for foreign wines, these pure California juices 
seem at first rather weak, and their delicate aromas and 
flavors fail of appreciation; but all natural, healthy tastes 
find in them the requisites of a perfect wine — a refined and 
delicious enjoyment of the palate, a genial nutriment which 
assimilates kindly with the blood, and a gentle stimulant 
which imparts permanent tone and vigor to the system, 
without the injurious reaction of drugged and alcoholic 
mixtures. Such being their character, w^e cannot but re- 
joice to see them coming into general use, believing, as we 
do, that their introduction must tend powerfully to promote 
health and temperance. 

Mr. Shaw, the English authority before quoted in this 
Work, speaks thus : The wines of California ofier a fair 



222 CALIFORNIA WINES 

comparison with those of Europe ; and the Germans have 
ah-eady shipped them to their countrymen in Bremen and 
Hamburg:. 

At the California State Agricultural Fair for 1866, Mr. 
Bugbey exhibited nineteen varieties of wine, including 
white, red and sparkling, from the most approve d wine 
grapes, mostly foreign varieties, and he intends to forward 
samples of the same to the World's Fair at Paris. They 
are scarcely more than a year old, but are described as 
'having a fine flavor and sufficient body to warrant the be- 
lief that with age they must acquire a much higher charac- 
ter and value. He puts his new wine into vats holding 
800 gallons, and draws it off into redwood pipes and 40 
gallon casks. The redwood is divested of coloring matter 
and taste by being first steamed, then soaked in salt water 
and washed. 

Mr. Bugbey made during the past season some 10,000 
gallons of wine, which he sells readily for |1 25 to $2 00 
j)er gallon. 

At the autumn fair of the San Joaquin Yalley Agricul- 
tural Society, 1866, the following awards were made for 
California wines produced: 

The Committee on Wines award the premium to C 
Detten, for best white wine, two years old, 1864 ; F Kess 
ler, best white wine, one year old, 1865 ; C. Detten 
second best white wine, one year old, 1865; F. Ressler, 
best red wine ; William Lottman, second best red wine 
made from Black Hamburg grape ; C. Detten, best port 
wine, two years old; West Brothers, best port wine, one 
year old ; C. Detten, first and second best claret wine ; L. 
F. Jarvis, best sherry wine ; Dr. IST. Longworth, best grape 
brandy, first and second premium ; C. Detten, best An- 
gelica wine, a special premium recommended ; C. Detten, 



AXD WIIOJ VINETARDS. 223 

a special premium recommended for Tokay wine. For 
samples of white and Malaga wines, made by Perry & Co., 
of Long Bar, Yuba County, ^and entered by W. F. Free- 
man, special premiums were recommended. To C. Detten, 
for still white and red wines, and for "best exhibit of wines, 
special premiums were recommended. To sample of Sono- 
ma champagne, of very fine quality, exhibited by West 
Brothers, a premium was recommended. 

We think it not an extravagant estimate to put down 
the wine product of California, for the year 1866, at 
3,000,000 gallons. 

Wine Vineyards at Los Angeles. — A gentleman of Stock- 
ton wrote to the Independent a very interesting article on 
the subject of the vineyards of that locality, from which 
we extract the following : The vineyards are mostly 
located in the suburbs of the city ; the avenues leading to 
them are wide and beautifully shaded with willow trees. 
Wolfskin's is the oldest and contains the greatest varieties 
of fruits. He has one hundred and forty acres under fine 
cultivation. The vineyard contains fifty-five thousand 
vines, of the Isabella variety of grape ; two thousand 
orange trees, the branches bearing down under the weight 
of that delicious fruit; groves of English walnuts, lemons, 
figs and almonds, are found on this place — the trecL all 
bearing prolifically, and the fruit of the most delicate 
flavor. 

The Sansevain vineyard is the most extensive in Los 
Angeles. He gives his attention most exclusively to the 
growing of grapes ; cultivates about two hundred acres of 
land, has seventy-five thousand vines, and makes on an 
average, yearly, 100,000 gallons of wine. He is erecting 
new buildings and increasing his capacity to produce a 
larger quantity. Tho high duties on imported liquors 



224 CALIFOEXIA WINES 

have caused this valley to be more justly considered and 
better appreciated, and the wine makers look forward to 
the time when California wine will rank prominently among 
the best produced in the Avorld. Mateo Keller has a fine 
vineyard with groves of orange, lemon and walnut trees. 

Analiehn, — Of this new German wine town, near Los 
Angeles, where much of the choice California wines, the 
Port, Angelica, Muscatelle, etc., are produced, the Wil- 
mington Herald says : The place was commenced in Sep- 
tember, 1857, as a joint stock company, but after one year 
each owner selected his lot and took it under his control. 
The settlement contains 1,265 acres, divided into fifty vine- 
yards, and sixty-four town lots. The vineyards have 
600,000 vines, 450,000 of which bear at the present time. 

Angelica Wine, and Jioio made. — Angelica is said to be 
made by mixing one gallon of grape brandy with three of 
grape juice, fresh from the press. It is a thick, sweet and 
strong drink, yet of very delicate flavor. 

Frochling and Kolder''s method. — Reduce the pure fresh 
juice about one-fourth or one-fifth by boiling, then place it 
in barrels, and rack it ofl* once or twice till it gets clear. 
!N either kind of Angelica ferments, the brandy and the 
boiling serving as preventatives, though it is thought the 
Angelica made by the latter method would ferment if long 
exposed to the air in a warm place. 

JBurgundy IVine in California. — The Placer Herald, 
speaking of the Sollah Vineyard, of which Mr. L. E. 
IMiller is proprietor, says : He has presented for our con- 
sideration and taste, wine of last season's vintage, made 
from the Black Burgundy grape. We find it quite pala- 
table, and free from the strong alchoholic qualities that 
are found as an objection to much of the California wine. 
He imported the vines himself, and finds the variety of 



AliTD WINE VINEYARDS. 225 

grape so well adapted to our soil and climate, that lie 
intends cultivating it extensively; he is confident, also, 
that it will grow in favor with the viniculturists of the 
State. 

JVines of Solano County. — We have tasted some very 
fine wines made in Solano County. The Solano Press 
speaks thus of these wines : Solano County can produce, 
and has produced, wines superior every way to the spark- 
ling Anaheim of Los Angeles, or the best white wine of 
the Buena Yista Association. Hittell and Haraszthy to 
the contrary, notwithstanding. The Wolfskills of Putali 
Creek raise the greatest abundance of grapes, but they 
have devoted but httle attention to wine making. In Green 
Valley, however, are several fine vineyards, owned mostly 
by Germans, which furnish an excellent quality of grapes 
for the wine press, and, as those who attend to their culti- 
vation understand the mystery of making good wine, and 
have had experience in the Old World, excellent claret and 
white wines have been produced, and other qualities can 
be manufactured. Some of them rival champagne in their 
sharp and pungent taste, and would grace the table of any 
connoisseur. When our vintagers commence to cultivate 
the Catawba grape, 'and send their wines to the State and 
District Fairs, so that their merits can be properly tested, 
the demand for Solano mne will far exceed the supply. 

Grape Branch/. — Tlie Wine Growers' Convention, lately 
held in Napa City, represented to the Secretary of the 
United States Treasury the oppressiveness of the new law 
relative to grape brandy, and they have received from him 
a dispatch to the effect that he has instructed Internal 
Revenue Collectors in CaTifornia to permit wine growers to 
make brandy under the old law. 
10* 



226 CALIFORNIA VINEYARDS. 



SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL VINEYARDS AND WINE DIS- 
TRICTS OF CALIFORNIA. 

Ko. of Vines. 

Sonoma, Buena Yista Society 1,250,000 

" other vineyards 1,188,000 

Los Angeles 2,000,000 

Anaheim 600,000 

San Gabriel 150,000 

Cocomougo 160,000 

Green Valley, Solano County 200,000 

Milton Wolfskin, Putah Creek, Solano County 50,000 

Sathaiel WolfskUl " " 50,000 

John Wolfskin, (estimated) " 50,000 

M. R. MiUer, Pleasant YaUey " 50,000 

Napa Valley 1,000,000 

Santa Clara 1,000,000 

Sonora 150,000 

Oroville 75,000 

San Joaqiim Valley 4,000,000 

Calaveras County 364,000 

Butte " 500,000 

El Dorado " 1,164,418 

Nevada " 120,000 

Placer " 367,000 

Siskiyou " 20,000 

Shasta 1,500,000 

There are, altogether some forty grape growing counties 
in the State of California, which will probably increase the 
number of vines to near fifty millions ; and the amount 
of wine, as before stated, may be estimated at 3,000,000 
gallons for the year 1866. 



PART XIII. 

EUROPEAN WINES. 

Port wine, how it is made in Oporto ; a strong infusion of brandy deemed 
necessary to enable the port wine to keep and bear transportation; 
Portuguese wine measure; Rhine wines, and of what grapes they are 
made; vintage of 1865; wine growing in France; a French propri- 
etor pays 4,000,000 francs for a vineyard, and pays for it from one 
vintage of the same; Madeira wine, and the grapes of which it is made. 

Port Wine^ hoio it is made in Oporto. — In the work of 
Mr. Shaw of London, to which we have before alluded, is 
the following note of the mode of making port wine, in the 
Oporto wine districts of Portugal, by Baron Forrester, 
who spent much time in those districts, and his investiga- 
tions seem to have been thorough and complete. 

To produce black, strong and rich wine, the following 
are the expedients resorted to: The grapes being flung 
into the open vat, indiscriminately with the stalks, sound 
and unsound, are trodden by men until they are completely 
smashed, and then left to ferment. When the wine is 
about half fermented it is transferred from the vat to ton els; 
and brandy (several degrees above proof) is thrown in, in 
the proportion of twelve to twenty-five gallons to the pipe 
of must, by which fermentation is generally checked. 
About three months afterward, this mixture is colored, 
thus : a quantity of dried elderberries is put into coarse 
bags ; these are placed in vats, and a part of the w4ne to 



228 POET WINE, now MADE. 

be colored being thrown over them, they are troddeti by 
men till the whole of the coloring _ matter is expressed, 
when the husks are thrown away. The dye thus formed, 
is applied according to the fancy of the owner, from 28 to 
56 lbs. of the dried elderberries being used to the pipe of 
wine! Another addition of brandy, cf from four to six 
gallons per pipe, is now made to the mixture, which is then 
allowed to rest for about two months. At the end of this 
time it is, if sold, sent to Villa Nova, where it is racked 
two or three times, and receives probably two gallons 
more of brandy, per pipe, and it is then considered fit 
to be shipped to England, it being about nine months 
old. At the time of shipment, one gallon more of brandy 
is usually added to each pipe. The wine thus having 
received at last twenty gallons of brandy per pipe, is con- 
sidered by the merchant sufficiently strong. 

It is thought impossible to make port wine bear trans- 
portation or keep five years, without extraneous spirits. 

Mr. Shaw says : I do not believe that there is anything 
so peculiar in the soil or climate of Portugal, as to render 
the juice of its grapes different from that of every other 
wine growing country ; though I can understand that black 
grapes, of the deepest tint and heaviest substance, fer- 
mented with the husks and stalks, besides extraneous 
matter to give all the color and body possible, must contain 
an amount of fermentative principle destructive to its fer- 
mentation. 

The percentage of proof of spirit in the best port 
evolved in fermentation, may be averaged at 20 per cent. ; 
but in addition to this there is usually added, in quantities 
of three, four or five gallons, from fifteen to eighteen 
gallons to every pipe, before it is shipped to England. 

In 1701, Douro wines sold in the wine countries at ten 



WIXES OF THE RHINE, 229 

millreas, about £2 15s., per pipe; in 1731, at forty-eight 
millreas, about £13, per pipe; in 1755, at twelve millreas, 
about £3, per pipe; in 1779, at thirty millreas, about £8, 
per pipe. 

Portuguese "Wine Measure. — A butt of sherry is 108 
gallons ; a hogshead, 54 galls. ; a quarter cask, 27 galls. 

We have thus seen that the best of port wine is not a 
little "doctored." But our vintners could scarcely afford, 
in California, to use such expensive material as brandy, to 
doctor their port wine with. To give $6 to $8 a gallon 
for brandy, and sell their wines at less than $1 per gallon, 
would scarcely pay. And besides, there is no need of 
doctoring our California wines with brandy, as they have, 
in their own natural composition, quite enough of the 
strong material, having from 10 to 19 per cent, of pure 
grape alcohol. 

Hhine Whies, and of what Grapes they are made. — 
Shaw says : The wine district most favored by nature is 
the Rheino-au. It is situated on the rio^ht bank of the 
Rhine, extending about 2p miles, i. e. from Walluf to Lorch ; 
and is about eight miles in width. The whole region is a 
chain of hills, which, extending along the river, produces 
the world-renowned Rhine wine. The steep hills are 
formed into terraces, one above the other, to prevent the 
soil giving away. On smaller hills this is not necessary. 
The greater part of the grapes grown here are the 
Riessling ; besides, there are a large number of Oestreicher, 
Kleinberger, and Klibroth. Orleans grapes are more 
scarce. The Riessling makes the best wine in good years. 
The Orleans grapes cannot be cultivated in cold, flat soils, 
as they require much warmth. They are generally planted 
on sunny hills. Hochheimer is usually considered among 
the iinest of the Rhenish wines ; the wine called Hock is 



230 EUROPEAN WINES. 

supposed to take its name from tliis place, where it 
originated. 

TIlc European Yintage of 1865. — Rev. E. S. Lacy, of 
San Francisco, who has been for a year or two traveling in 
Europe, writes, April 1st, fi'om a village on Lake Leman, 
Switzerland, that he has just paid a visit to the Rhine 
country, where vines do most abound, and that his informa- 
tion was to the effect that the vintage of 1865 is accounted 
one of the best of the century for wine — the autumn warm, 
dry and long. They always defer vintage as long as 
possible, and avoid frost, that the "blood of the grape" 
may become rich and sweet. Vineyard land is worth from 
$800 to $3,000 per acre, along the banks of the Rhine, and 
wherever the exposure is good, the grape culture crowds 
out every other. 

Wine Growing in France. — The area of vines in France 
is nearly 6,000,000 of acres. The estimated produce of 
the wine crop of 1865, an unusually good year, is 
1,000,000,000 gallons, or about 140 gallons per acre. 
2,304,000 gallons were exported to Great Britain in 1864, 
against 583,000 in 1854. All those, says a late writer, 
acquainted with the rural population of France, know that 
their health, strength and activity are remaikable, par- 
ticularly when the small consumption of animal food is 
considered. This is attributed to the wholesomeness and 
life-giving properties of their chea]) ordinary wines. A 
peasant in the wine district is rarely seen intoxicated. He 
buys wine, or makes it himself at a cost of about two- 
pence or three-pence the bottle. It consists solely of the 
juice of the grape ; nothing whatever is added to give it 
increased force, or an improved flavor. 

A French proprietor lately paid four millions of francs 
for a tract of land where Medoc was the favorite wine ; 



MADEIKA WINE. 231 

and he has realized the full amount of the purchase money 
from the crop of 1864, alone. 

Tlie Madeira 'Wine in common use, is made from both 
a white and black grape, of a small size, generally mixed 
together, either at the time of pressing, two or three 
rackings being sufficient to take off all the dark color. It 
is said that grape whicb produces the Madeira wine is the 
same that produces Hock wine in Germany; the vines 
have been shifted back and forth to prove this. The 
Catawba vines from the United States have been tried in 
Madeira, with good success. 



PART xiy. 



COLD GRAPERIES. 



Little need of Cold Graperies in California; required at the East; plans 
of various kinds described. 

Ix a climate like that of California, wbere the most 
tender varieties of foreign grapes are grown successfully 
in the open air, at least in most parts of our State, there is 
little or no need of Cold Graperies, such as are now becom- 
ing quite common in the States East. And yet, in San Fi*an- 
cisco and its immediate vicinity, neither the foreign nor 
native grapes succeed well in the open air, owing to the 
cold, harsh sea-winds, and the almost perpetual recurrence 
of heavy, damp fogs. Hence, those who wash to grow the 
grape must do so under glass ; and this can scarcely be 
recommended, in a country where every variety of exotic 
grape grows so readily, except as a matter of fancy by 
gentlemen of means who wish to adorn their home-grounds, 
and have the pleasure of sitting occasionally under their 
own \me and fis; tree. 

And those in the Sitates East who find it necessary to 
adopt this system of cultivating the grape under glass, will 
find it necessary to resort to books more elaborately 
devoted to that branch of grape culture, than can be 
expected in a hand-book of this description, intended prin- 
cipally as a guide to those engaged in the out-door culture 



234 COLD GEAPEEIES FOR 

of the grape. But that no branch of our subject may be 
neglected, and as an incentive rather than aid to those who 
may desire structures of the kind, we give a description of 
one erected at South Manchester, Connecticut, which we 
find in Woodward's " Graperies and Horticultural Build- 
ings," a work that will be found useful for reference, by 
those who wish to go extensively into the culture of the 
grape by the various modes of artificial heats. 

A Cold Grapery. — In case of the one above alluded to, 
the house is twenty fe-et wide and sixty feet long ; the 
foundation is a stone wall, with a drain under it ; immedi- 
ately above this is a hollow brick wall, its base being on a 
level with the ground on the outside, but the earth is 
embanked against the brick wall to within an inch of the 
sill. A small house is built at the north end, which is used 
for tools, for potting, etc. The border is about three feet 
deep, and occupies the whole interior of the house. There 
is no outside border. On the bottom is placed about one 
foot of " tussocks," from a neighboring bog, which may in 
time decay. The border is made up pretty freely of muck, 
with the addition of sand, loam, charcoal dust, bone dust, 
etc. There is a row of vines, two feet and a half apart, at 
each side of the house ; and two other rows, inside of the 
others. There are also a few vines in the centre and at the 
ends of the house. The outside rows form fruiting canes 
half way up the rafters ; the next or inner rows go to the 
roof with a naked trunk, and furnish fruiting canes for the 
other half of the rafters. The fruiting canes are thus very 
short and easily managed. The house was planted in the 
month of April, with such grapes as Black Hamburg, Vic- 
toria Hamburg, Wilmot's Hamburg, Golden Hamburg, 
Muscat Hamburg, Chasselas Fontainebleau, Frontignans, 
Muscat of Alexandria, Syrian, Esperione, Tokay and some 



THE EAST AKD CALIFORNIA. 235 

others. The plants were very small, and the wire room in 
jured some of them so as to make it necessary to rej^lant; 
but the growth of those not injm-ed was very good. A fine 
crop of melons, tomatoes, strawberries, etc., was taken 
from the house the first year. The second year a few 
bunches of grapes were gathered, and everything went on 
finely. 

This is the third year in which the house has been in 
operation. Our last visit was in the early part of August, 
1863, when we counted 734 bunches of grapes, weighing 
from one to seven pounds each — the Syrian being the 
grajDe which reached the last figure. Almost as many 
bunches were thinned out. In some cases too many are 
left, but they look very fine. The Muscats are extremely 
well set, and some of the bunches will weigh fully three 
pounds. The Black Hamburgs look quite as well ; but the 
finest show of fruit is on the Esperione. The large num- 
ber of bunches is owing to the manner of planting ; so 
many could hardly be taken the third season from a house 
planted in the ordinary way. The canes, it will be borne 
in mind, are now only fruited about half their length. 

The exposure of this house is a very bleak one, and the 
climate cold and fickle. In order to provide against a late 
spring frost, a coil of one-inch pipe was inclosed in brick 
work, with a fire-chamber under it. From this coil a single 
one-inch pipe was carried around the house next the side 
sashes. It is found to answer the purpose, having on one 
occasion kept the frost out of the house, when the crop in 
the house of a neighbor was destroyed. In many places 
some recourse of this kind is necessary, and a small boiler 
with a single pipe will, in most cases, prove sufficient. 

These houses have, of course, their sides and roofs of 
glass. On this part of the subject, a writer in the same 



23G COLD GRAPERIES FOR 

book says: We are now adopting for plant-houses, low, 
narrow, span-roofed buildings, formed by six feet sashes, 
one on each side, the ends of the bouses facing north and 
south. These we attach, three together, on the " ridge and 
furrow" system. This system presents great advantages, 
and by using no cap on the ridge piece, air is given in the 
simplest and safest manner, by the sash being raised by 
an iron bar nine or ten inches long, pierced with holes, 
which answers the double purpose of giving air and secur- 
ing the sash, when closed, from being blown oif by heavy 
winds. There is no necessity for the sashes being hinged 
at the bottom, as might be supposed; all that is required 
being to nail a cleet along the wall plate, fitted tight to the 
bottom of each sash. Every alternative sash is nailed down, 
the other is used in giving air in the manner described. 

On the subject of " culture under glass," Mr. Strong, in 
his new and excellent work, says : Glass-houses are in 
use for two purposes ; first, as a protection for varieties 
that are otherwise too delicate to i-ipen well in our cli- 
mate ; and, secondly, for the purpose of ripening fruit out 
of the natural season. For the first purpose, a very slight 
protection is all that is essential. The Black Hamburg, 
and many other of the more vigorous European varieties, 
are found to ripen perfectly under a roof of glass ; the back 
of the house being left entirely open throughout the season. 
Indeed, they have ripened well under single sashes left 
open on all sides. So simple is the requirement, that every 
householder may have foreign grapes growing under a tem- 
porary roof of sashes, with none of the care of ventilation ; 
his main efiTorts being directed in training, and in guai'ding 
against mildew. But there are advantages in having close 
houses, in order to obtain entire control of the atmosphere, 
even for the summer crop. 



THE EAST AND CALIFORNIA. 237 

As to the position, etc., of the grapery, the same writer 
advises a double or span roof, the ridge running as nearly 
as possible to the north and south. Thus the sun will 
have its utmost effect durino* morninsj and evening-, while 
its fiercest rays will be mitigated by striking obliquely 
upon the glass at raid-day. 

But a yet simpler and less expensive mode has been sug- 
gested, and is thus described in Elliott's American Fruit 
Growers' Guide. But expensive structures are not neces- 
sary ; many a man at the West has a south side of a build- 
ing unoccupied ; this may serve as the back of his cold 
house, by setting up pieces of four inch scantling against 
the building, nailing boards to it, and filling in between 
with tan-bark, saw-dust, or fine charcoal, he has the back ; 
now four inch square posts rising four feet from the ground 
at a distance of say fourteen feet from the back, boarded 
on each side, and filled in same as the back, make the front 
wall; leaving, however, two spaces six feet from either 
end, of about two feet square, for hanging shutters. Now 
the back wall being ten feet high, the ends are to be made 
in same way as the front, giving, of course, the slope from 
back to front, and leaving out at one end space for a door- 
way, and at the highest point of sides near the back at each 
end, a space for swinging shutters of say two feet square ; 
these opened will give ventilation, in connection with those 
in the front wall. This done, a joiner will be required to 
fit on a plate of two inch plank all around, and fit in raf- 
ters and sash ; the sash should be the entire length of 
width of house ; styles fourinch wide by one and a half 
thick, bars one inch wide beveled to half inch on the under 
side, the upper style or head piece six inches wide, the 
lower one fourteen inches ; the rafters should be placed 



238 COLD GRAPEEIES, ETC. 

SO that sash cannot be over forty-two inches wide, or suffi- 
cient for five lights wide of six inch glass. 

In California no artificial heat is required, either for a 
cold grapery, or a hot house ; the sun is all sufficient during 
the coldest seasons of the year : unless it be in some of the 
Alpine regions of the Sierra Nevada mountains. 



PART XV. 

DISEASES AISTD INSECTS INJTJKIOUS TO THE GRAPE. 

In California no damage will be done to the vine, either from disease or 
insects, if planted in proper places, out of the influence of fogs or 
moisture, and in the proper soils ; mildew no new disease ; how God, 
by his prophet Amos, smote the wicked people's vineyards and gar- 
dens, in his day, with "blasting and mildew," and allowed the "palm 
worm" to destroy them ; the President of the Academy of Sciences 
of St. Louis, describes the appearance of the mildew and of the brown 
rot and the black rot; the oidium of Europe; why California does not 
sufier from these diseases ; kinds of grape most affected by these 
diseases at the East. Remedies for the diseases of the grape. Inju- 
rious insects; the aphis, slug, rose-bug, thrips, etc., how to destroy 
them. 

In California, as we have already shown, there is seldom 
any damage occurring to the vine or its fruit, by any of 
the diseases to which they are subjected in other countries. 
The long dry seasons having no rains nor heavy dews from 
the time the fruit sets until it is fully ripened, giving ample 
time to secure the vintage and for the maturing of the 
raisin crop, etc., allows no opportunity of exposure of the 
grape to the usual diseases incident to it in more uncongenial 
climes. With proper care in the selection of sites for vine- 
yards, adopting positions on rolling or undulating grounds 
vrhere there is a free circulation of air, and no unwhole- 
some miasma, it is rare that we shall find occasion to com- 
plain of the rot, mildew or oidium, or any other disease. 



240 DISEA.SES OF THE GRAPE 

But as this little book is expected to be re.'id in regit rif. 
less favored in climate than California, we must devote a 
few pages to the consideration of the ordinary diseases, 
and the best remedies that have been discovered by science 
and practical experience. 

The blight and mildew are no new diseases ; their his- 
tory dates back to the pastoral days of the ancient patri- 
archs. God, through the prophet Amos, (Amos, rv. 9,) 
declares to his people, " I have smitten you with blasting 
and mildew ; when your gardens, and your vineyards, and 
your fig trees, and your olive trees, increased, the palm 
worm destroyed them." 

In the Transactions of the Academy of Science of St. 
Louis, Dr. Engleman, the president, describes two species 
of fungi destructive to vineyards. He describes first a 
species of botri/tis, probably the b. vitlcola^ of Berkley. It 
makes its appearance in the latter part of June on the 
lower, downy surface of the leaves. About the same time, 
the mildew appears on the pedicles, and often, also, on the 
young berries, when they are about the size of peas, or 
smaller. Dr. Engleman never saw it on full grown berries. 
Those attacked on their surface or on their pedicles, soon 
fall off; but the most material damage is done by the rail- 
dew infesting the leaves ; whereupon the greater p.art of 
the leaves will gradually turn yellowish-brown, at their 
base, shrivel from that point, assume a club shape, and at 
last dry up entirely, usually remaining adherent to the 
withered racemes. This is the broion rot^ so well known 
to all cultivators to their dismay. The second kind, the 
black rot,, is brought on by a very different fungus, which 
Dr. Engleman thinks is undescribed by botanists. It 
n»akes its ap])earance only on nearly full grown berries, 
exhibiting in the first stage a discolored spot on the side, 



and" the remedies. 241 

but never at the base, of the berry, about two lines in 
diameter, with a dark spot in the center. This spot soon 
becomes light brown, and remains so ; while the surround- 
ing part of the berry gets darker, and exhibits a rougli or 
(under the magnifier) pustulous surface ; gradually now 
the berry shrivels up, and becomes black. The individual 
fungi are little spherical bodies formed under the surface 
in great numbers, which, growing, elevate, and at last burst, 
the epidermis ; then open at their apex by a small jagged 
hole, and, shrivelling with the berry, eject a more or less 
curled or twisted thread, which, moistened, becomes gela- 
tinous, and shows the innumerable oval sporules, each 
imbedded in its coat of mucilage. 

This first species of fungus, which Dr. Engleraan calls 
Botrytis, is thought to be identical with the European 
O'ldium Tiickeri^ which a few years since made such havoc 
with the vineyards of Europe, the Island of Maderia, etc. 
Another species (Erysiphe) is more commonly seen on the 
European varieties of grapes, and sometimes found on our 
native grapes, and it is feared may, at some future time, 
become a source of evil. It is described as being entirely 
distinct, developing upon the upper surface of the leaf in the 
form of a white powder, which spreads like a web, envel- 
oping leaf and fruit. This may be peeled off with ease, 
leaving the foliage uninjured, as the roots of the fungus do 
not appear to penetrate the leaf to any extent. It is only 
a damp or moist climate that can generate or give life to 
this parasital fungus that goes by the name of mildew, and 
is so deleterious to the grape. 

Downing recommends the use of ashes, mixed with the 

soil, as being beneficial in preventing mildew in localities 

subject to that disease. He says, young and healthy plants 

are seldom attacked by mildew, while old and feeble ones 

11 



242 DISEASES OP THE GEAPE 

are very liable to it. Our own observation has led us to 
believe that wood ashes are one of the most beneficial fertili- 
zers for the grape, giving it the appearance of extraordi- 
nary luxuriance and health. The great productiveness and 
longevity of the vineyards abroad, which are formed upon 
a soil composed mainly of the spent ashes of volcanoes, and 
the acknowledged superiority of the grapes and wine 
yielded by such soils, are manifest proof of the value of 
ashes. 

'Why are the choice grape growing districts of Califor- 
nia free frotn mildeio^ rot^ etc.? — -Because of the absence 
of rains or dews, during the grape season. Mr. C. A. 
Riche, of Boonville, Mo., in an article in the Gardener's 
Monthly, says : I have for many years been of the opinion 
that two things were essentially necessary for the healthy 
growth of the grape; namely, natural or artificial protec- 
tion from dew, and thorough drainage. The reasons for 
entertaining this belief are these : Some ten years ago my 
father tried some experiments on three vines of the Isabella 
planted on the east side of the house. At first they were 
trained close to the wall, where they would be protected 
from dew, by the projection of the roof; and, while grown 
thus, they bore regular and fine crops of grapes. But sub- 
sequently they were permitted to run on some framework, 
so to make a kind of arbor in front of the house, and where 
the dew would fall on the leaves ; after which the grapes 
invariably rotted, both on the arbor, and under the roof, 
and on the wall ; and I have observed the same thing in 
other localities ; thus showing that it is not the fault of 
the soil or climate, aside from the dew. 

Again, Mr. Strong says : That mildew delights in a 
warm and muggy air, is beyond doubt. It is equally clear 
ihat though the vines have become debilitated, and in con- 



AND THE REMEDIES. 243 

dition to receive, and have actually received, the seeds, yet, 
if the weather becomes warm, dry and clear, the fungus 
will perish. It cannot grow in a clear, dry air. 

Mr. Muench says : In California and Mexico the grapes 
never rot, for the atmosphere is generally dry and kept 
in motion. 

Mr. Wilson Flint says : The rot^ which is never known 
in California because of the absence of rains during the 
ripening season of the grape, seems to be the great scourge 
of the vintner in the Atlantic States and Europe, where rains 
are frequent while the grape is in an immature condition 
Many are of the opinion that the grape rot is caused solely 
by long-continued rains. This belief is true only in part. 
The superinducing cause of the rot arises from the fatal 
effect of what are designated as heated terms, when, 
for days and sometimes weeks, the atmosphere becomes arid 
from a brazen sky, under a sunshine so intense as to scald 
the sap in the foliage of the vine, and parch its leaves to 
such an extent that the tissues shrivel up, and the free cir- 
culation of the sap is impeded or destroyed. This parch- 
ing atmosphere being 'succeeded by heavy rains, the leaves 
of the vine become saturated with an excess of moisture 
which they are unable to distribute through their diseased 
functions, to the long-famishing grape ; hence decomposi- 
tion takes place in the foliage, and, as a consequence, un- 
wholesome food is transmitted to the grape, or sent to the 
termimal shoots, to produce enfeebled wood for subsequent 
bearing. 

Mr. W. A. Woodward, in an essay in. the Horticulturist, 
gives his experience in noting the kinds of grapes most af- 
fected by disease in the region of New York, and the times 
at which each was attacked. Under date of July 12, he says 
the grape rot appeared on the following varieties, some of 



244 DISEASES OF THE GRAPE 

them to a greater degree than he had ever seen, viz. : Alex- 
ander, Anna, Catawba, Concord, Cuyahoga, Diana, Hyde's 
Eliza, Lydia, Le Noir, Logan, Mary Ann, Mead's Seed- 
ling, Manhattan, Mottled, Northern Muscadine, Perkins, 
Tokalon, Taylor's Bullitt. July 25, the mildew showed 
itself on the berries of Anna, Allen's Hybrid, Cuyahoga, 
Herbemont, Hyde's Eliza, Le Noir, Logan, Lydia, Mead's 
Seedling, Tokalon, and Rogers' Seedlings, Nos. 1, 4, 5, 9, 
and 22. August 10, the grapes that show no disease up to 
this present time are, Clinton, Creveling, Delaware, Frank- 
lin, Garigues, Hartford Prolific, Isabella, Israella, Maxa- 
tawny, Miles, Rebecca, York Madeira, and Rogers No. 3. 

This writer suggests the following as some of the pre- 
disposing causes of this disease : 1st, the attenuation of the 
vine during its early stages, propagated from feeble wood, 
and especially from green cuttings, to supply the excessive 
demand at the highest prices ; 2d, the temptations to con- 
vert weak plants into saleable ones, by growing them in 
manure beds, and watering with chemical preparations to 
induce unnatural growth ; 3d, unnatural (sometimes called 
scientific) pinching and heading-in of the vines during their 
growing season, continued from year to year, experience 
shows, adds this writer, that this treatment will develop 
disease in the fourth and fifth year (if not before), and will 
insure it ever after. The leaves are first affected, then the 
canes, then the fruit. Some fruit has the black rot only ; 
others show first fungus on the fruit, and by the seventh 
year, both may be found on the same bunch. In all my 
examination, I find the laterals pinched in, atid the bearing 
canes headed-in. 

Our essayist does not, we presume, intend to discounte- 
nance all pinching-in, or heading-in of vines, because an ex- 
cess of this may, as he thinks, have afiected injuriously the 



AND THE REMEDIES. 245 

health of the plant and fruit, in some cases. In many of 
the oldest vineyards of Europe this system of pinching and 
heading-in vines has been practiced for many years before 
they ever suffered severely from the mildew or oidiuin. 

But as we have discussed this subject more at length 
under the head of Pruning^ it is unnecessary to say more 
in this place. We will merely add, that Mr. Muench, who 
has much practical experience in the culture of the vine, 
says : That the disease may be mitigated by pruning the 
vi?ies very close^ rather than too little, since a strong growth 
resists better the injurious exterior influences. After giving 
the various remedies proposed for the cure or avoidance of 
these diseases, Mr. M. very curtly says : After what has been 
said, it would be foolish to expect to find a remedy to act 
as a charm against rot. None can hefound^ since we can- 
not change the climate of America. The author should 
have made an exception to that part of America known as 
California ; here we need no such change. 

Remedies for the diseases of the Or ape. — Although, as our 
vinicultural friend, just quoted, remarks, there may be no 
effectual remedy for these diseases, short of a change of 
climate, yet, as all our American people can scarcely be 
expected to come to California, at once, or even all those 
engaged in grape culture, it is well to give them an account 
of such remedies as may have been discovered to mitigate, 
if not entirely prevent, these diseases. 

The great panacea has generally been, in these diseases, 
the use oi sulphur in some form or other. On this subject 
Dr. Strentzel, in his prize essay, says : Of the many pre- 
ventives which have been tested here, sulphur is by far the 
most efficacious. Its particles coming in contact with the 
spores of oidium destroy their vitality, and as brimstone is 
also antagonistic to insect life, it is in a great measure a 



24G DISEASES OF THE GEAPE 

preventive of their depredations. To be successful, the 
buds at the time of frondescence should receive a good 
sprinkling, again when the blossom racemes are fully de- 
veloj^ed, and a third when the grapes are the size of small 
peas. Some contend that the dusting with finely pulverized 
clay has the same effect ; but this does not conform with 
our experience. Others advise the use of salts of copper, to 
which we emphatically dissent. All compounds of copper 
are virulent poisons, and even in small quantities, though 
acting slowly, surely destroy animal life. 

Sulphur is very generally used, either in a powdered 
state or prepared as a liquid. For mildew, a wash is re- 
commended, made of water, sulphur and lime, applied with 
a syringe. 

German Remedy for the Rot. — Dr. Franz. Yulkan, of 
Eppau, in the Tyrol, having learned by experience that the 
parasites of vegetables cannot exist on animal matter, has 
discovered a remedy for the grape disease. He dissolved 
two and a half pounds of common glue in ten gallons of 
water, by boiling, and then cooled the solution until it was 
neither too stiff nor yet too watery, but had the appearance 
of lye. Diseased grapes were dipped in this solution, and 
after forty-eight hours they assumed a lustrous, dark green 
color, like that of those that had not been attacked. In 
September, they ripened into the finest fruit. In places 
where large tracts of vines were struck with the blight, 
single clusters were dipped, and these were healthy and 
gave very fine fruit, while all the rest rotted. 

We should doubt, however, if this process would improve 
the grapes, although it is said not to injure them at all. It 
would, however, be rather a tedious and expensive process 
for a large vineyard. It may answer in small vineyard 
culture. 



AND THE REMEDIES. 247 

Insects, — The aphis and slug, which in some latitudes ap- 
pear in May and June, may be destroyed by syringing 
with tobacco-water. The grape-vine flea-beetle, {Haltica 
Ghalyhea^) a small, glossy, greenish-blue beetle, about three- 
twentieths of an inch long, sometimes preys upon the buds, 
causing them to have the appearance of having been bored. 
The eggs are deposited early, and soon change to a green- 
ish, smooth worm, which preys upon the tender leaf and 
young bunches. It may be destroyed by syringing with 
tobacco-water, or sifting lime over the vines when wet with 
dew. The rose-bug {melolontlid) sometimes attacks the 
vine in large numbers, eating off the upper surface of the 
leaf, and causing the fibres left to appear like a sieve. They 
may be destroyed by spreading a cloth underneath and 
shaking the vines in the cool of the evening, or early in the 
morning. They may thus be easily gathered up and burned. 

The Thrips. — Dr. Trimble recommends a strong solution 
of tobacco to destroy the thrips. Had observed that a very 
hot day would destroy them ; once, in particular, with the 
thermometer at 100°, thousands were killed, and the vines 
cleared. Another . authority, Josiah Salter, says, what is 
called thrips was better known as fretters, a small whitish 
fly. Tobacco smoke will kill them when it can be confined. 
A solution of tobacco and whale oil soap is also an eflectual 
remedy, applied with a sponge. 



PAKT XYI. 

MISCELLAinr VIl^ICULTTJEAL. 

No fever and ague where the grape succeeds well ; raisins in Sacramento 
County ; B. N. Bugbey's vineyard ; extensive vineyard in ISTapa ; 
Samuel Brannan's ; wine as a substitute for strong drink ; the New 
York Journal of Commerce's opinion thereon ; California fruit for the 
"World's Fair ; how put up ; American wines ; Ohio vintage ; a German 
vintager's success in Iowa ; profits of grape culture in Illinois ; 
Oliio Lake Shore vineyards; the varieties of the grape they plant; 
diseases of; extent of the Lake Shore grape region; grape growing 
enterprize in Virginia ; preservation of fruit ; report of the Northern 
Ohio and Lake Shore Grape Growers' Association ; curaiive qualities 
of the grape ; trouble in the French vineyards ; wine crop of France ; 
French wines ; Hock vineyards of Germany. 

As there are some matters connected with grape culture 
that did not seem to come very appropriately under either 
of the preceding Parts of our Work, we devote to them a 
separate chapter, as the closing Part of our Book. 



Califoe^ia Items. 

No Grapes in Fever and Ague Districts. — Grapes are 
not only wholesome as an article of food, but the thrifty 
growth of the vine is an indication of a healthy climate and 
neighborhood. In the chapter of George Husmann's 
excellent work " On the Cultivation of the Native Grape," 
11* 



iSO MISCELLANY VINICULTUEAL. 

wherein he treats of the soil and locations for vineyards, 
he states that " he was much struck by the force of a 
remark made by a medical friend last summer, when, in 
consequence of the continual rains, the ague was very 
prevalent." It was this : " Wherever you find the ague 
an habitual guest with the inhabitants you need not look 
for healthy grape vines." The Prairie Farmer, published 
at Chicago, thinks there is " something in it," and says, 
in support of the theory : "When we recall the fact that 
the same kind of weather which produces the rust on 
wheat, almost inv£fiiably, in new settled sections, brings 
w^ith it the fever and ague, and that an unusual excess, or 
that peculiar wet and hot weather last August and early 
September, ruined nearly one-half of all our Delawares in 
this State, and badly mildewed the leaf of all our native 
vines, with, perhaps, the exception of the Concord, 
Northei'n Muscadine, and Blood's Black, we shall see 
there is much pertinency in the remark." There are 
localities in California, as the Sacramento Bee observes, 
where the grape is subject to mildew and other diseases. 
Again, in certain localities, the vines are thus affected only 
at intervals, while in other seasons they are quite healthy. 
The hint given above would suggest to vine-growers the 
propriety of instituting observations and experiments in 
this matter. If the disease be in the vine, it would need 
one class of treatment ; if it is caused by malaria in the 
atmosphei'e, it would require an entirely different course — 
if, indeed, it might not be given up as incurable. 

Raisins in Sacramento County. — Speaking of the 
raisins manufactured in Sacramento County by B. N. 
Bugbey, of the Natoma Vineyard, and recently mentioned 
in the Union, the Folsom Telegraph says : 

Bugbey is the only man in the State engaged in this 



MISCELLANY VINICULTUEAL. 251 

business extensively. His raisins have been reported 
regularly of late in the San Francisco papers in their market 
reports. Three or four years ago the ground occupied by 
the ISTatoma Vineyard was a black and barren looking 
spot, and to show what can be done by energy, the product 
of his vineyard this season has been about ten thousand 
gallons of wine, one thousand gallons of brandy, and one 
thousand boxes of raisins, containing twenty-five pounds 
each, and selling as fast as they can be delivered in the 
San Francisco market at five dollars per box at wholesale. 
The soil of the foot-hills is proving itself far superior to any 
of the southern portion of the State for the successful and 
profitable cultivation of the vine. 

Extensive Vineyard. — The Napa County Reporter says 
Mr. Brannan has planted all the hills immediately adjacent 
to the Calistoga Springs with grape cuttings this season. 
Many of them are choice foreign varieties, planted with a 
view of testing the adaptability of the soil and climate of 
the uj)per part of Kapa Valley for producing a superior 
wine and table grape. Five hundred thousand cuttings 
have already been set out, which, when in vigorous growth, 
will temper the atmosphere, heated by the boiling cauldrons 
around the Calistoga, to a more endurable heat. 

Wines as a Substitute for Stronger Liquors. — The 
New York Journal of Commerce says : The introduction of 
good wines into ordinary use as a substitute for stronger 
liquors, is a consummation devoutly to be hoped for. If 
we could grow good wines ourselves, on our own hills and 
fields, we should have great confidence in the future 
realisation of such a hope. Nor is it as yet certain that we 
cannot. Obviously there has not yet been any such success 
in producing wine in the United States, east of the Rocky 
Mountains, as to justify the expectation that the people 



252 MISCELLANY VINICULTURAL. 

will ever take to it as a regular article of food, and substi- 
tute it for coflfee and tea, or rum. There are no wines yet 
grown in the Atlantic States which rank well enough in 
quality to promise a low grade article for the poorer classes 
that shall be good and cheap. But the product of Cali- 
fornia is totally different from any other grape juice grown 
in America. The Pacific slopes will unquestionably give 
us good wine in al)undance before many years. 

Calif ornia Fruit for the 'World'' s Fair. — We learn, 
says the San Francisco Bulletin, that California will be 
represented in the fruit department at the World's Fair at 
Paris, in 1867, in the following manner: Some months 
since, a gentleman, who has a fine vineyai'd and orchard near 
Alviso, had a number of water bottle shaped jars made at 
the San Francisco Glassworks at Steamboat Point. These 
jars have a mouth about two and a half inches wide and 
twelve inches high, and have a round-formed bottom, six 
inches wide, with a small hole in it. The jars were to be 
placed over young fruit, so that it could in time fill the 
inside, accommodate itself, in growing, to the shape of the 
jar. The fruit, when ripe, is to be carefully cut off and the 
stem secured, so that a cork can be sealed over it. Through 
the hole in the bottom the jar is to be exhausted of air 
and hermetically sealed. It is said that the absence of air 
will insure the keeping of fruit for an indefinite time, 
while the jars being strong will admit of safe transportation 
to any part of the world. The jars being of w^hite glass, 
the fruit can be plainly seen through them. It is probable 
that similar attempts to preserve green fruit for the Paris 
Exhibition are being made in other portions of the State. 



miscellajsty vixicult^je^^x. 253 

Items about the States East. 

Grapes-. — A letter in the October number of the Horti- 
culturist, states that there are 5,000 acres on the shores and 
islands of Lake Erie devoted to the culture of the- grape. 
The crop this year, he says, on 3,000 acres will average 
two and one half tons to the acre. This will give 1 7,500,000 
pounds, which, at an average price of seven cents per pound, 
will be $1,225,000, or $350 per acre. A very profitable 
business. 

American Wines. — At a recent meeting of the Wine 
Growers' Association, at Cincinnati, a sample of imported 
Johannisberg, which cost seventy-five dollars per dozen, 
was placed before the tasters, together with a specimen of 
the Ohio vintage of 1864, made from Delaware grape. 
The brands were concealed from the party, but the majority 
gave preference to the domestic over the foreign article. 

Grape G ulture. — The Keokuk Constitution says : A 
German resident of this city, four years ago last spring, 
bought ten acres of ground five miles from this city, on the 
rapids, and the same season planted four acres of it in grape 
cirttings. While the grapes were maturing, the recent 
summer, he was offered by a gentleman of this city |2,000 
for the chances of his crop. He refused to sell, however, 
and his vintage has yielded him 1,800 gallons of wine, 
worth $2 a gallon, or $3,600 for one year's crop of grapes. 
This is an enormous profit, and seems more like the gold- 
finding stories of California fifteen years ago, than an 
incident of agriculture in Lee County, Iowa, and is strictly 
true. 

Profits of Grape Gulture. — ^The Messrs. Lawyers, of 
Cobden, III, planted a vineyard of 6,000 vines. Concords 
and Delawares. This planting was two years ago last 



254 MISCELLANY VINICITLTUJRAL. 

spring. Their crop the present year was 5,000 pounds, 
selling at from thirty to fifty cents per pound. This, 
their fii'st crop, pays back all expenses. Should the rot 
destroy half the crop, it will yet pay to grow grapes at ten 
cents per pound. This is certainly very encouraging, and 
will doubtless induce many to engage in the business. 
There is another advantage in the fact that grapes can be 
grown upon land that would be otherwise useless. 

OMo Lake Shore Vineyards^ Varieties — The Catawba 
still takes the first place. The Isabella produces a fine 
sparkling wine ; it is not so hardy as the Catawba, and is 
liable to overbear. The Delaware holds its own ; it is a 
splendid wine grape, and well adapted to mixing with the 
must of other varieties, to improve the flavor and give a 
better character. It is not as good a keeper for table use 
as some others. The Concord makes a very beautiful 
wine, and is a showy market grape. The quality of its 
wine is not high. The Diana is a fine table grape, and 
famous for keeping well ; its wine has a peculiar flavor, not 
pleasant to some — agreeable to others. The Clinton is no 
mean grape for wine. It has sweetness and acid ; requires 
a poor soil. The wine is rough at first, but improves in 
quality. It makes a fine red wine. The lona is one of the 
new grapes that is very promising. 

Diseases. — The mildew and rot are the chief drawbacks 
to the profits of grape culture. Some years the crop is 
nearly exempt ; in others from one-fourth to one-half of the 
grapes are lost in a few vineyards, but the aggregate loss, 
as yet, has been small. 

The Lake Shore Grape Region. — This extends along 
the whole length of the South Shore, and for several miles 
inland, and embraces the islands in the lake. It is the most 
southerly shore of any of our great lakes, and has the 



MISCELLANY VINICULTUEAL. 255 

advantages of a proper soil, a warm latitude, and the pro- 
tecting influence of a large body of water on the north. 
The purchase of lands and the preparations for planting 
"ines in the year 1866, surpass in extent anything of the 
kind in this country before witnessed. Seven thousand 
acres are supposed to be already set with vines. Had the 
entire crop of grapes of last year been made into wine, it 
is estimated that the product would have been two millions 
of gallons. — Ohio Rep. 

A Gra7id Grape growing Enterprise. — The Wheeling, 
Ya., Intelligencer says that a joint stock company on a 
large scale is being formed in that city for the purpose of 
entering more largely into the grape growing business. 
It is proposed to raise a capital of $250,000. Nearly 
$50,000 have already been subscribed, and as soon as 
$75,000 are raised the company will go to work. The 
land to be woiked is on the Ohio side of the river, near 
Martinsville, and fifty acres of it are already under culti- 
vation, and it is designed to increase the size of working- 
land to one hundred and fifteen acres. The company, 
when all the stock is taken, will purchase a steamboat, and 
in addition to the grape culture, take out coal. A charter 
will be applied for, and then it will be a grand growing 
company. 

Preservation of Fruit. — At the late meeting of the 
Western New York Fruit Growers' Association, Mr. Nice 
read a paper on the Preservation of Fruit. The great 
essentials to this were coldness, dryness, evenness of tem- 
perature, purity of air, and the absence of free oxygen, 
which was the great destroyer of fruit. Large buildings 
were being erected in Ohio, devoted entirely to the pre- 
servation of fruit. The profits on one season's fruit paid 
the entire expense of the buildings. Dryness of atmos- 



256 MISCELLANY VTNICULTTJRAL. 

phere was secured by using the refuse of salt works, of 
which the works at Saginaw, Mich., supplied what was 
wanted, at little expense. 

Mr. Allen said that dryness was not essential in preserv- 
ing some kinds of fruit. A gentleman in Le Roy had kept 
grapes in a very moist situation. At his suggestion, Mr. 
Ilazelton of Le Roy, gave the mode there adopted. The 
grapes were buried in a pit about four feet deep, and kept 
constantly moist, the lower tiers often submerged in water. 
They were preserved in perfect order till late in the winter, 
and brought the highest price in the Buffalo market. 

Grape Groioers. — The Report of the Northern Ohio and 
Lake Shore Grape Growers' Association says : As to the 
extent of grape culture in the district covered by this 
Society's operations, Mr. F. R. Elliott, the former Secretary, 
after much inquiry and observation, has published his 
opinion that previous to the planting of the spring of 1866, 
there were not less than six thousand acres of grapes in 
tlie Lake Shore region, including the islands. And the 
President estimates that at least 1,000 acres more have 
been planted in vineyards the current season. Of the 
amount of wine manufactured in this region, the past year, 
Mr. Elliott gives the following estimate : 

The section east of Cleveland, 40,000 gallons ; the sec- 
tion west of Cleveland, 150,000 gallons; Cleveland and its 
immediate vicinity, 89,000 gallons ; in all, 279,000 gallons. 
The value of this wine at wholesale prices is between 
five and six hundred thousand dollars. Had the entire 
grape crop of last year been made into wine, the product 
would have been 2,000,000 gallons. 



MISCELLANY VimCULTUEAL. 257 

European Yinicultueal Mattees. 

Curative Qualities of the Grape. — It is one great advan- 
tage of the homoeopathic system of medical practice that 
the potions are easy to take. There are no hideous boluses 
to be swallowed, no repulsive-looking doses to torment 
the weakened palate — nothing but a sugar globule or an 
inoffensive tincture. Children plead for the medicine, and 
grown-up people make no wry faces over it, and call not 
for water to take the bad taste out of their mouth. But it 
remained for the philosophical German mind to advance a 
really practical step beyond Homoeopathy. Having dis- 
covered one palatable remedy, the German intellect forth- 
with sets itself at work to improve upon the pattern, and 
produces one far more agreeable to the general taste, to the 
invalid and the robust— the " Grape Cure." 

A pleasant writer in the London Review describes the 
process of this cure, and gives us an attractive picture of 
the place that has become its head- quarters. The '' cure" 
is practiced at Meran, in the Tyrol, and at Vevay and Mar- 
treux, on the Lake of Geneva ; but in Germany, Durkheira 
is the place which enjoys most fame. Durkheim lies on the 
left bank of the Rhine, in the Bavarian Palatinate, and is 
distant about fourteen miles due east from Mannheim. The 
nearest railway station is Neustadt, a small town on the 
line from Mayence to the French frontier at Forbach. 

The surrounding region is one great vineyard. For some 
twenty-five miles the high road passes through the midst 
of a succession of vineyards, without a trace of any other 
cultivation meeting the eye of the traveler, and although 
immense quantities of wines are made from the twelve or 
fifteen different sorts of grapes which are grown there, 
almost an equal amount of the juicy fruit is diverted from 



258 MISCELLANY VINICULTURA.L. 

the bibulous to curative purposes. The process of the 
" grape cure" is at once simple and agreeable. It is thus 
described : 

The grape cure lasts from three to six weeks. The 
regular season commences on an average about the middle 
of the first week in September, and lasts to nearly the end 
of October. Every thing depends on the state of ripeness 
of the grapes. The amount of grapes daily taken by per- 
sons undergoing the cure varies from about four and a half 
to seven or eight pounds ; in some cases, as many as nine 
pounds are eaten. 

They are taken three times a day, at the same hours at 
which mineral waters are usually drank in Germany — 
before breakfast, at 11 o'clock in the morning, or two 
hours before dinner, and at from five to six in the evening:. 
Persons generally commence the cure with from two to 
three pounds a day, and advance daily in quantity till the 
larger limit is reached. The skins and the seeds should 
not be swallowed. The largest portion is usually con- 
sumed at 11 o'clock. Some doctors do not allow their 
patients to take any other breakfast than the grapes, 
accompanied by a roll of bread. The usual plan, however, 
is to permit them to take a breakfast of tea or coffee with 
bread, but no butter, after the grapes. A strict diet is 
universally prescribed ; all fat, sour, or spiced meats, and 
pastry, are forbidden; a small quantity of white light 
wines is permitted, but red wines, beer and milk must be 
avoided. The evening meal should be a very light one. 
This system pursued at Durkheim is the same as the one 
followed at the other places where the grape cure goes on ; 
and the grapes which are used in the cure both at Yevay 
and Martreaux are, as at Durkheim, for the most part, the 
Gutedel and the Austrian varieties. 



MISCELLANY VIXICFLTUEAL. 259 

There is a small Kurgarten at Durkheim, formerly the 
garden of the castle, where a band plays at the regular 
hours appointed for the eating of the grapes. On one 
side, under the trees, there are tables covered with large 
baskets full of the varieties used in the cure. As at Ems 
and other places where mineral waters are drank, it is the 
fashion for every one to buy a glass for himself, so here 
every one must be provided with a basket to carry the 
grapes which he purchases from the attendants at the table. 
The price of the best grapes is at present only two and a 
halfpence per pound. To a stranger the sight is an amus- 
ing one, and very diiferent from any thing to be met with 
elsewhere. Numbers of people are seen walking up and 
down in the little garden, each with a small black basket 
full of grapes in his hand, which he is eating with the 
greatest rapidity, as if he were doing it for a wager. The 
place is, as may be imagined, covered with grape skins, 
though some of the burly, round-shouldered Germans bolt 
skins and all. 

The disease in which the grape cure is considered by the 
German doctors to be most beneficial, is in affections of the 
mucous membrane of the respii-atory organs. The secretive 
powers of this membrane are roused, and it is enabled to 
throw off obstructions which have assumed a chronic form. 
Cases of bronchitis and pneumonia are said to have been 
often cured, even in patients of scrofulous constitution, and 
much benefit is said to have been experienced by persons 
affected with tubercular consumption in its earliest stages. 
Where spitting of blood has set in, much caution must be 
used as to the amount of grapes taken. Persons affected 
with any of these complaints are in the habit of coming to 
Durkheim yearly from all parts of Germany. 

A well-known grape grower in New York some years 



260 MISCELLANY VINICULTUEAL. 

ago put fortli a theory of curing disease by the use of 
grapes, but he never carried his theory into practice beyond 
the circle of his own family. At Durkheim they do it on 
a large scale. 

Trouble in the French Vineyards. — A Paris letter in 
the London Times says that the extreme heat which pre- 
vailed during the vintage in France produced a curious 
result. The grapes being in general very ripe, fermented 
in the vats with extraordinary rapidity. A great portion 
of the saccharine matter had not time to be converted into 
alcohol, and in countries lik-e Burgundy, where wine-grow- 
ers do not leave the wine very long in vat, fearing it may 
become hard and rough, the wine, on account of the saccha- 
rine matter remaining in it, will ferment for a long time in 
the cask. These wines will consequently require much care 
not only from the danger of excessive fermentation during 
their transport while young, but even after they are lodged 
in the consumer's cellar. The excess of saccharine matter 
will render the wine liable to ferment at every change of 
weather, and if the cellar is not sufficiently cool the fermen- 
tation may produce acidity. There is no doubt that the 
wines of this year's growth are of excellent quality, but 
they will require great attention before they arrive at the 
age of maturity. 

Tlie Wine Crop of France. — Of eighty-nine French de- 
partments only eleven are not wine growing ; of the others, 
twenty consume all they grow, and fifty-eight export. In 
France there are upwards of 2,200,000 jDroprietors of vines. 
The average annual produce of wine during the four years, 
1858-61, was upwards of 38,000,000 hectolitres, which is 
equivalent to more than 836,000,000 imperial gallons. 
The wine growers are thirsty souls, for upwards of 
15,000,000 hectolitres are set down as consumed by them. 



MISCELLANY VIXICULTUEAL. £61 

Paris, in 1862, drank 2,696,538 hectolitres of wine, besides 
about 534,000 hectolitres of spirits, beer, cider and peny. 
Setting down the population of Paris at 2,000,000, includ- 
ing the floating population of strangers, the allowance per 
man is handsome, if we consider how little the women and 
children consume. 

French Wines. — France has 6,250,000 acres of vineyards, 
whose average products, as this year for example, amounts 
to 1,320,576,000 gallons — multiply by five for bottles. Of 
this blessed abundance of drink, to be sure, some small 
rivulets run down foreign throats; but that is a detail. 
The large estimate of foreign exports is only a little over 
3,000,000 hectolitres, or about one-twentieth part of the 
whole product ; distilation into brandy takes up twice as 
much more ; the rest is drunk in France. And with all 
that, you do know that we have very good authority for the 
woeful belief that we here in Paris drink one-third at least 
more wine than ever crossed the octori boundary — that is, 
one bottle is composed of two parts of grape juice and one 
part Seine water, drugs, deviltry and Mackay mixture gen- 
erally. There are said to be 5,000,000 of acres of vines iu 
France. 

Hock Vineyards of Germany. — A Fi'ankfoil-on-the- 
Main correspondent of the Cincinnati Gazette, writes as 
follows of the great hock vineyards of that place where the 
wine known as hock is produced: The hock vineyards do 
not contain, all told, more than 75 or SO acres, and in ordi- 
nary and good years the product is not more than 600 
"stuck" (a stuck is about 1,500 bottles), which gives us 
a total of 900,000 bottles, yet we are assured by reliable 
men, engaged in the wine trade, that there are sold every 
year, at the auctions held at the wine guts, no less than 
6,000 stucks, all purporting to be the genuine hock. The 



262 MISCELLANY VINICULTUEAL. 

kind of grapes mostly grown in these great wine yards, are 
the Reissling, Traminer, Gut Edelen, Roland, Orleans, Cle- 
vern Fleish, Ostreish. 

From the Reisling variety are made those wines so cele- 
brated and well-known throughout the world, such as ihe 
Johannisberg, Steinberger, Catinet, Raunthaler, Berg, 
Leibfraumilch and Marcoheunnec Very good wines also 
are made from the Traminer. Tlie Fleish is a red grape ; 
the Clevern is reddish purjDle color, but is more grown in 
the Palatinate than here. The Gut Edelen and Fleish 
have very thick skins and are only used as a table grape. 
(The Reissling never produce in quantity as much juice as 
any of the other varieties, but it brings a larger price.) 
The Ostreish seems to be the general favorite for ordinary 
wines, and from this grape is made most of the sparkling 
hock and moselle. 

For the Johannisberg and other celebrated wines, in con- 
sequence of the demand for them, the. wine merchants are 
unable to fill the orders for the trade ; so they obtain wines 
produced in other localities which assimilate to the taste of 
the respective wines, and label them with these popular 
names. They are sometimes nearly as good, though an 
experienced wine merchant will detect the difference at 
once by the taste, as quickly as he discerns the growth of 
one year from another. 



THE AUTHOR'S CONCLUDING REMARKS. 



Our little volume is now finished. We have said all we 
deemed it necessary to say, and given all the facts and 
opinions of various authorities that we considered essential 
to elucidate the various points involved, and to correct or 
confirm our own theories and practical observations and 
experiences. And although, in so short a space of time as 
we have had at our disposal, we could not enter as carefully 
or critically into every department of our subject as we 
might have done under other circumstances, and as our 
materials would have justified, yet we think our little Hand- 
book will be found to embrace a sufiicient amount of con- 
densed knowledge and practical experience on the subject 
of Grape Culture, expecially in California, to enable any sen- 
sible judicious man to go on with the culture of the grape 
understandingly and with success. That it will be found to 
be perfect, in all its parts and proportions, we can scarcely 
allow ourself to hope. We have not sought so much to 
advance or inculcate any particular theories of our own, as 
to give the opinions and practical suggestions of those who 
have had a large experience in California grape culture, 
and who are men of intelligence and liberal minds, and 
whose experiences and opinions we deem entitled to great 
weight, at the same time reserving to our own judgment, 



2G4 THE author's concluding remarks. 

and conceding to the reader the right and privilege of 
aj^proving and adopting, only such theories and ideas and 
practical experiments as to us or him may seem most 
sensible and proper. 

The great magnitude which the vinicultural interest of 
California, as well as of the United States generally, is be- 
ginning to assume, and is destined to reach, especially in 
California, where we see no reason to doubt its complete 
success, makes it a pleasure to us to give the weight of our 
influence and our best exertions to aid in its advancement. 
Say what we may of the rich mineral resources of Califor- 
nia, and they do, indeed, seem inexhaustible, we confi- 
dently believe and predict that long ere the close of this 
century, the grape growing and wine making interests of 
California will far outstrip every other. 

And now, as this little volume must necessarily go to 
press far from the supervising or revising oversight of the 
Author, who has always been accustomed to supervise his 
own proof-sheets, he trusts that any typographical inaccu- 
racies or oversights that may, perchance, occur, will not 
be laid to his account. 

And, trusting to the generosity of a liberal and enlight- 
ened public to overlook all deficiencies of whatever na- 
ture that may be found, the Author begs to present to his 
friends and the public, his heartiest salutation, wishing 
them all the congratulations and Compliments of the 
Season. 



APPENDIX. 



PART I. 

PROGRESS AND PROSPECTS OF GRAPE CULTURE, IN 1876. 

Our statistical tables will give some idea of the prog- 
ress made during the past decade in the culture of the 
grape, the making of raisins, wine, etc. Some of the 
counties, it will be seen, take the lead in wine making, 
some in producing raisins, and others in producing table 
grapes. As an example of what is being done in a 
single locality, in the production and sale of table graj)es, 
we have taken pains to examine the shipping papers at 
the railroad office in the little town of Vacaville, Solano 
County (where the author at present resides), and we 
find that during the month of August last, a portion of 
the fruit-growers, chiefly of Pleasant Valley, shipped for 
the San Francisco market 6623 boxes of table grapes, 
at 30 lbs. each, making nearly 200,000 Bbs., or about 100 
tons. This is only a partial report, as many shipped 
their grapes with other varieties of fruit, all under the 
head of " Fruit," so that it was impossible to learn ex- 
actly the full amount. The shipping agent assured me 
that, in his opinion, one half of the grapes were shipped 

( i ) 



11 APPENDIX. 

iu that way. But if we add, say fifty per cent, instead 
of one hundred, for this omission, we have 337,413 lbs., 
or about 168J tons. And these, at ten cents per pound, 
which is probably a fair average at that early period of 
the season, amounts to $33,741.30; and this from one 
little shipping point, and in one month, and that August j 
nearly a month earlier than any other portion of the 
State. Shipments commenced a little before the first of 
July, and there were probably 100,000 lbs. shipped in 
that month, and the shipments continued through the 
months of July, August, September and October — giving 
probably a yield for the season of over 1,350,652 K)s., or 
a value of about one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. 
At this rate what must be the yield of the entire State? 
Mr. M. E-. Miller alone shipped, during the season, 8,645 
boxes, or nearly 260,000 lbs.; in July, l,5u0 boxes, or 
45,000 lbs. First shipment (White Madeline), June 28. 
The earliest in market, we believe. 

The assessors give us the quantities of peanuts, onions, 
castor-oil beans, etc., why not the quantity of grapes 
raised, as well as the number of grape vines? In 1870 
the grape crop was estimated at about 12,000,000 lbs., 
it must now be over 25,000,000 lbs. per annum, or 
$1,500,000. If the entire fruit cro}) of California was 
$6,000,000, as reported for 1874, it would be a low estimate 
to put the grape crop for 1876 at $1,500,000. 

Of the 40,000,000 of vines in our State, one half, 
probably, are of the Old Mission variety, the other half 
have been propagated from the best European varieties — 
800 different varieties having been introduced in 1861 
by the Commissioners appointed by our State to visit 
the best vine districts of Europe and select the choicest 



PROGRESS AND PROSPECTS OF GRAPE CULTURE. Ul 

of those considered best adapted to our climate and soil. 
Two hundred thousand cuttings were then introduced 
into California; and how many have since been imported 
we have no accurate means of knowing. 

Estimating the 20,000,000 Mission vines in full bearing 
at fifty cents each, and the 20,000,000 foreign vines at 
one dollar each (and they will yield an average interest 
or profit of 25 per cent, per annum on that sum), and we 
have a capital of $30,000,000 invested in vines alone. 

Some idea may be formed of the intrinsic value of 
such property, from the fact that in appraising the 
damage done to the vineyard property of Mr. B. N. 
Bugbey, of Placerville, by opening a canal through it, 
the Commissioners appointed for the purpose awarded 
him $19,000, or $2,000 per acre. Several witnesses testi- 
fied that his vineyard was worth $250,000, and that 85,000 
vines yielded annually from 600 to 700 tons of grapes, 
worth $50 per ton, or from $30,000 to $40,000. 

Mr. E. B. Blowers, of Woodland, Yolo Co., last year 
realized from 25 acres of vines, for raisins, $5,000; table 
and wine grapes, $2,000. And there are vineyards, not 
a few, of equal value and productiveness in our State; 
and there is yet room for many more. 

Hon. Marshall P. Wilder, the great American Pomol- 
ogist and Horticulturist of Boston, who visited California 
a few years ago, speaks thus of California as a grape- 
growing country: 

Next to the cereals of California, no other production of her 
soil is so important as the graj^e. In the State there are about 
thirty million vines, two thirds at least of which are in full bearing. 
California seems to be the home of the vine, I do not intend here 
to discuss the expediency of crushing the purple clusters for the 
purpose of producing the sweet-poisoned wine; but I do say that it 



IV APPENDIX. 

is certain tliat no other region has such advantages as that State for 
grape growing and the manufacture of wine. In my opinion she is 
destined to be one of the greatest grape-growing and wine-producing 
territories on the face of the earth. With regard to the culture of this 
and other fruit, I remark that in the several sections we visited, 
fruit could be produced at much less cost than with us. It is very- 
large and handsome, and nearly exempt from disease and insect. 
The atmosphere there is so dry that it may remain long on the vines 
after it is ripe, thus enhancing the opportunities for gathering. 
And then labor there is quite as cheap as with us. In the Alhambra 
Gardens, situated in the Alhambra Valley, we saw bunches of grapes 
that measured eighteen inches in lengtli, though they were only half 
grown. 



PART II. 



THE GRAPE INTEREST OF CALIFORNIA, BY COUNTIES. 

Number of Grape Vines and Gallons of Wine and Brandy, in the several 
Counties of the State, in the years 1873 and 1874. 

[FBOM THE SUB ^E yob-general's EEP0BT8, VriTH CORBKCTIONS.] 



■1874 > , 1873- 



^ .. »r TT- Galls. Galls. ,r rr- Galls. Galls. 

Counties. No.Vtnes. ^^.^^_ ^^^^^^^ No.Vvnes. ^.„^_ ^^^^^y. 

Alameda 190,852 627,611 100,000 2,000 

Alpine •••• 

Amador 1,680,300 38,500 600 1,680,300 82,200 900 

Butte 550,429 39,G30 600,564 26,930 

Calaveras 525,800 93,000 3,419 552,600 44,030 1,060 

Colusa 245,000 245,000 

Contra Costa 520,400 85,000 478,490 90,220 

DelNorte 564 25 50 

El Dorado 1,500,000 170,840 1,420,255 123,915 3,650 

Fresno 25,958 26,760 

Humboldt 5,000 4,600 

Inyo 16,175 15,485 

Kern 58,000 61,334 

Klamath 1,984 980 .... 

Lake 47,875 46,917 

Lassen 3,714 3,640 

Los Angeles 4,370,000 1.164,800 92,000 4,250,000 1,460,000 60 

Marin 13,415 3,326 11,663 2,713 

Mariposa 500,000 15,000 2,700 350,000 12,000 1,500 

Mendocino 8,000 31,370 

Merced 178,720 8,370 1,050 175,982 7,930 1,170 

Modoc 4,000 2,080 

Mono .... 



Monterey 16,000 15,000 

Napa 3,119,595 716,070 12,500 3,108,590 433,885 11,300 

Nevada 335,000 15,000 340,000 20,000 

(V) 



VI 



APPENDIX. 



Number of Orape Vines and Gallons of Wine, etc. — {Coniinued.) 



Counties. 

Placer 

Pliinias 

Sacramento 

San Benito 

San Bernardino. 

San Diego 

Sau Francisco... 

San Joaquin 

San Luis Obispo 

San Mateo 

Santa Barbara. .. 

Santa Clara 

Santa Cruz 

Shasta 

Sierra 

Siskiyou 

Solano 

Sonoma 

Stanislaus 

Sutter 

Tehama 

Trinity 

Tulare 

Tuolumne 

Ventura 

Yolo 

Yuba 



No, Vines. 

1,000,000 

931 

2,051,590 

178,290 



-1874 

Galls. 
Wine. 

12,005 

159,875 
12,000 



Galls. 
Brandy. 
70 



125,600 



2,965 



1,025,000 

64,350 

200,000 

569,327 

1,237,379 

263,075 

480,030 

671 

45,000 

1,000,000 

3,982,429 

260,000 

610,370 

40,210 

22,965 

264,570 

1,500,000 

200,000 

496,231 

460,000 



4,580 

15,225 

137,847 

72,0C0 

26,375 

150 

500 

54,800 

1,836,000 

20,500 

75,000 

10,000 

500 

2,900 

70,000 

10,000 

1:01,786 

28,000 



4,150 



1,000,000 100,000 5,000 



90,000 4,756 



1,870 

73,537 

1,300 

265 



1,000 
2,320 
2,000 

5,000 

650 

500 

2,500 

1,876 

1,600 



No. Vines. 

806,642 
125 
2,132,975 
376,440 
600,000 
100,201 



1,000,000 

60,000 

140,260 

213,984 

1,213,085 

262,275 

490,054 

1,336 

75,250 

690,629 

3,603,385 
260,000 
607,273 
650,000 
21,560 
285,480 

1,400,000 
135,200 
550,000 
470,000 



-1873 

Galls. 
Wtne. 

59,812 



161,898 
3,000 

125,000 
5,000 



Galls, 
Brandy 

5,505 

2,595 

300 

4,000 



71,000 2,138 



2,325 

128,329 

70,000 

31,400 

150 

400 

125,300 

365,510 

50,500 

75,325 

50,000 

575 

2.000 

75,000 

7,000 

13,700 

30,000 



1,100 

72,436 

1,200 

250 



5,000 
2,220 
2,500 

2,000 



1,200 
2,120 

1,800 



Total 30,932,715 5,292,569 210.698 29,965,528 3,793,997 176,944 



The reader should bear in mind that the Surveyor-General's 
report is made only once in two years ; hence we have no later 
report than the foregoing. 



PART III. 

GRAPES OF COMMERCE FOR TABLE AND FAMILY USE. 
SUPPLEMENTAL LIST FOR THE APPENDIX. 

"We have a few choice new varieties to add to our lists 
of table grapes already given in the body of this work. 
And many of the varieties then but little known have 
since been tested by vintagers in various portions of our 
State, so that it is now pretty well settled what varieties 
are best adapted to general culture. The California 
Vine and Winegrowers' Association have adopted and 
awarded premiums, as follows, for the 

Best Twelve Var'ieties of Table Grapes. — To H. Carring- 
ton. Florin, for the best twelve varieties of table grapes — 
Muscat of Alexandria, Cannon Hall Muscat, Flaming 
Tokay (Lombard), Rose of Peru, Black Hamburg, Black 
Spanish, Black Morocco, Fontainbleau, Black Malaga, 
Frankindale (Downing gives Frankindale as one of the 
synonyms of the Black Hamburg), Black Prince, White 
Malaga — premium, $25. 

Best Six Varieties of Table Grapes. — Mr. Butter, Florin — 
Black SiDanish, White Muscat, Black Hamburg, Flaming 
Tokay, Eose of Peru, Black Morocco — premium, $20. 

Best Three Varieties of Table Grapes. — To James Good- 
win, Sonora — Muscat of Alexandria, Flaming Tokay, 

Black Spanish — premium, $15. 

( vii ) 



Till APPENDIX. 

Best Two Varieties. — "White Muscat of Alexandria, 
Flaming Tokay, to Mr. Dane, Sonora — premium, $10. 

Best One Variety. — Muscat of Alexandria, to B. Blowers, 
Woodland — premium, $20. 

There are more than 200 varieties of grapes, more or 
less valuable, cultivated in this State. The 200,000 cut- 
tings, embracing 300 choice varieties of grapes from Eu- 
rope, that were introduced into California, about fifteen 
years since, by Commissioners officially appointed by 
our State, have been disseminated broadcast over the 
State, all proving more or less valuable additions to our 
vine interest. We continue our supplemental list by 
adding some of the most select varieties, as we have met 
with them from time to time, notes of which we have 
made on such occasions. There are but few raisin or 
wine grapes that do not make good table grapes; while 
there are very few table or wine grapes that will make 
good raisins. 

Black Syrian. — Bunches medium size, close set; ber- 
ries about average size, nearly round, black, with blue 
bloom, sweet and juicy. 

Bishop. — Bunches large and spreading; berries large, 
resembling, in size and appearance, the Black Morocco. 
Mr. Shaw, of Sonoma, says it is the same with him. 

Black Swiss. — Small bunches, irregular; berries small, 
resembling California Mission. 

Blue Malaga. — Bunches loosely set; berries a little 
oblong, large; with blue bloom; juicy, but seeds large. 

Bromley's Black. — Bunches small, not shouldered; ber- 
ries medium size, black, with blue bloom; flavor sweet. 

Chasselas Napoleon. — Long, spreading bunches, loosely 
set; berries large, round, white, with a yellowish tinge; 
juicy, fine flavor; seeds rather large. 



SUPPLEMENTAL VARIETIES OF TABLE GRAPES. IX 

Cayuga. — Bunches small, loose; berries small, seedy, 
round, blue black; sweet, but not very choice. 

Chili. — Bunches large, loose; berries large, round, 
purple green color, juicy and sweet; skin rather thick. 

Ciotat. — Clusters heavy shouldered, with lateral 
bunches, rather loosely set; berries medium size, round, 
pale green to light yellow when ripe. 

Cornichon. — Bunches medium size, loosely set, and 
loosely shouldered; berries oblong, medium size; color 
purple; skin rather thick, and large seeds; fine, juicy 
flavor. 

Damascus Superb, — Small, spreading clusters, loosely 
set; berries large, round, light green, pale rose color 
when ripe. 

Danube. — Bunches small, loosely set, no shoulder; 
berries small, round, and blue in color. 

Elsa. — Bunches small, loose; berries medium to small, 
round, black, with blue bloom; seeds rather large; tender 
pulp, sweet. 

German Muscalella. — Bunches small, round, close set; 
berries small, light green or amber color, sweet flavor. 

Gray Beisling. — Small, compact bunches; berries 
small, dun color; juicy, and fine flavor. 

Gi^eat Lombardy. — Bunches large, loosely set, heavy 
shoulders, tapering to a point abruptly; berries large, 
round, pulpy, light purple; resembles Flaming Tokay, or 
Lombard. 

Huling's Superb. — Bunches small, shouldered; berries 
small, round, close set, black, with blue bloom. 

Janisberg Beisling (so-called). — Bunches large, shoul- 
dered; berries medium size, light green or amber color; 
fine, juicy, sweet flavor. 



APPENDIX. 



Lachrymochristie. — Bunches medium size, compact, 
shouldered; berries medium, round, black, with bloom, 
thick set; pleasant flavor. 

Madeline Blanche. — Small clusters, and small berries, 
round, close on the bunch, light green or yellowish 
white, when ripe. 

Medoc. — From Bordeaux. Bunches very small; ber- 
ries small, round, blue, with dry bloom. 

Muscatel. — Small, compact bunches; berries small,' 
round, greenish white; resembles Sweetwater. 

Napoleon. — Bunches large, loosely set, with branches, 
also long and loose; berries very large, round, amber 
color; juicy and rich. 

Purple Damascus. — Medium-sized bunches, irregular; 
berries round, with blue bloom; resembling Black Ham- 
burg, but larger. 

Pink Malaga. — Bunches small, no shoulder; berries 
medium size, round, pink or light wine color; juicy and 
sweet; resembles Victoria in appearance. 

Portugal. — Bunches small, no shoulder; berries loosely 
set, round, slightly pink in color, looking transparent, 
with light bloom. 

Schiras. — Large cluster bunches, irregular and loose; 
berries medium size, oblong, purple color. An excellent 
table grape, and early. 

Tiniuri. — Small bunches and small berries, red; juicy 
pleasant flavor. 

Victoria Begia. — Large branching clusters; berries 
medium size, round, purple; fine, juicy flavor; tapering 
to a point. 

White 3Ialaga. — Branching, with large number of clus- 
ters; bunches with little or no shoulder, loose set, medium 



SUPPLEMENTAL VARIETIES OF TABLE GEAPES. XI 

size, some large; berries above medium size, a little ob- 
long, whitish green, with light bloom; sweet and juicy; 
seeds larger than White Muscat; a good raisin as well as 
table grape. 

White Malvatia. — Bunches medium size, loose; berries 
above medium size, round, loose set, whitish green, light 
bloom; juicy and sweet. 

White Candalin. — Bunches medium size, loosely set; 
berries large, round, green, yellowish when ripe; little 
pulp, tender, juicy, a little sub-acid; will make good 
wine. 

White Siberian. — Bunches loosely set; small berries, a 
little below medium size, round, greenish white; slight 
bloom. 

White Malvoice. — Large branching clusters, loosely 
set; berries medium size, round, light green; resembles 
Chasselas. 

White St. Peters. — Small clusters; berries medium size, 
round; white, reddish when ripe; no shoulder. 

White Traminer. — Resembles White Sweetwater; small 
bunches, close set, little or no shoulder; berries small, 
greenish white. 

J. H. Carrington, Placer Co., received from the State 
Agricultural Society, premiums for the best twelve 
varieties, the best six varieties, and the best three 
varieties of table grapes. 

At the Santa Clara Valley Agricultural Fair, D. M. Har- 
wood received premiums for the best collection of foreign 
grajpes, best single bunch of foreign grapes, and the best 
single bunch of Mission grapes. 

At the Solano and Napa District Fair, M. R. Miller, 
of Pleasant Valley, received premiums for the largest 
collection of grax^es; best six varieties of table grapes, etc. 



XU APPENDIX. 

"Brighton" — A New Grape. 
A new variety of grape has recently originated with 
Mr. Jacob Moore, of Brighton, N. Y. (near Rochester), 
and produced by the artificial fertilizing of the polen of 
the Concord with the Diana Hamburg. Clusters of this 
grape are handsomely illustrated in a late number of 
Moore's Riiral New Yorker, which also contains a detailed 
description of the appearance and qualities of the grape. 
It is claimed that the infusion of a strain of the Hamburg 
blood has given to it some of its great excellencies, while 
the preponderance of the native (Concord and Diana) 
element, preserves to it great vigor and hardiness of 
wood, and suflScient strength of leaf to carry and mature 
the fruit and wood in any season or locality at all favor- 
able to grape growing. Its recommendations are thus 
enumerated : 

1. Excellence of quality. — It is claimed to be equal to 
or better than the Delaware in flavor and richness, with 
even less pulp; very sweet, pure and delicate in character; 
an excellent table grape. 

2. Vigor and hardiness of vine. — The vine grows with 
great rapidity, ripens its wood early, and proves fully as 
able to stand severe cold as the Concord. 

3. Early ripening. — The Brighton ripens along with 
the earliest good sorts, the Delaware, the Eumelan, and 
the Hartford. 

4. Beauty and size of fruit. — Is as large and as beau- 
tiful as the Catawba, which it resembles in color, and 
form of bunch and berry. 

5. Beauty of vine and foliage. — The Brighton vine has 
very large, glossy, dark green leaves, which are very 
attractive, and promise to be free from disease. 



SUPPLEMENTAL VARIETIES OF TABLE GRAPES. XIU 

It might be well to try this new hybrid in California. 

Grapes for the Soiiihern States. — A vineyardist writing" 
from Tennessee, says: For vineyard culture I recom- 
mend the Hartford, Diana, Perkins, Eumelan, Clinton or 
Delaware. No doubt many of the finer grapes of Califor- 
nia would do well in the South. The author has, the 
past season, filled an order for 4,000 cuttings of Cali- 
fornia vines, to go to Texas. 

As showing the early date at which some of the later 
as well as earliest varieties of grapes mature in Pleasant 
Valley, Solano County, we note that Mr. M. K. Miller 
shipped his first grapes of the season ( White Madeline) 
on the 28th of June, and on the 11th of August a quantity 
of White Muscat, Black Hamburg, Kose of Peru, and 
Mission grapes, in all, over three tons; and 1,500 boxes, 
as we have elsewhere shown, were shipped by him in 
July. The earliest sold for 15 cents per pound. 



PAET IV. 

RAISINS AND RAISIN GRAPES. 

The raisins produced in California in 1875, are estimated 
at 20,000 boxes, or 500,000 Bbs. valued at $75,000. 

Although, as we have already remarked, nearly every 
variety of raisin grape is good also for the table, yet, few, 
comparatively, of the common varieties make good raisins; 
and the assortment of raisin grapes is still very limited. 

The White Muscat of Alexandria is decidedly the 
favorite, as yet, both for the table and as a raisin grape. 
The Feher Szagos does well as a raisin grape in some 
localities; in others, not so well; nor is it as universal a 
favorite as the Muscat. The Tokay and the Larga (a 
Malaga raisin grape), very generally succeed. There is 
little or no material change in the varieties of raisin 
grapes from the list in the body of our work. 

In a late commercial article of the Morning Call, we 
find the following : 

The California i-aisin crop last season was estimated at 20,000 
boxes, and the receipts here to date have been 17,600 boxes, so that 
the estimate was probably not far out of the waj'. Preparations are 
being made for increasing the quantity next season, which will 
necessitate the finding of a market for a portion of them elsewhere. 
One or two car loads were sent to Chicago last fall and were readily 
sold at fair prices. There will be no difficulty in disposing of any 
surplus the State is likely to produce for years to come, if pains are 
taken to produce a first-class article. The California grower has the 
( 2:iv) 



EAISIN GRAPES. XV 

whole Union for a market, and the United States is the largest con- 
sumer of raisins in the world. Th.ere is, therefore, no danger o^ 
overstocking the market. The magnitude of the business in Spain 
is apparent from the following statement of the exports from Malaga 
for two years: 

1874. 1875. 

United States, boxes . , 853,100 689.900 

British Colonies 46,600 37,000 

England 139,000 215,400 

France 77,500 179,400 

North of Europe 54,000 71,300 

"West Indies and South America 53,600 23,900 

Mediterranean and Portugal 34,800 18,900 

Totals 1.259,200 1,235,800 

Coastwise and Interior 34,800 74,200 

Totals 1,294,000 1,310,000 

The crop during the past two years has not been up to the average 
of previous years. For the same time in 1872 the shipments were 
nearly 2,000,000 boxes, and again, 1873, they were 1,735,000 boxes. 
Any farmer who has the vines can turn his crop into raisins, with a 
comparatively small outlay. No costly appliances are required, 
because the finest raisins are dried in the sun. 

It usually takes three pounds of grapes to make one 
of raisins. 

"W. A. Sanders, of Fresno County, who has taken much 
interest in the practical production of raisins and raisin 
grapes, has written an article on the subject, from which 
we make the following extracts: 

I have, says he, in a single instance, made forty pounds of raisins 
from a single vine, jjruned in the usual manner of vineyard pruning 
These raisins sold at a country store, retail, for twenty-five cents 
per pound, or $10 per vine for the year. An acre of land would 
produce 700 such vines, giving a gross income of $7,000 per acre. 
But this is a result far above what anybody must expect from raisin 
production. An acre of grapes of the Larga, Tokay, Feher Szagos, 
or what some call the "White Malaga," will produce in our superior 
climate and from our best soil,- with an abundance of water and 
good culture, on mature vines, from 10,000 to 40,000 pounds of 
grapes per annum. Gen. Negley gathered from an acre of six-year- 
old Eeisling vines, at San Jose, 40,000 lbs. last year. There is no 
reason why vineyards in our country should not do as well. 



XVI APPENDIX. 

You will observe that I do not use the term "drying." Raisins 
are cured, not dried. Every person who has examined the qualities 
of raisins has observed that instead of the juice having been merely 
expelled in the process of curing, that it has been changed to glucose 
or grape sugar, and that instead of the raisin being but dried fruit- 
fibre — as is the case with dried apples, plums, peaches, etc. — it is 
almost a solid mass of granulated sagar. And just in proportion as 
this change of the juice to sugar is effected with least loss of weight 
is the grape suitable for making raisins. 

The Larga loses 50 per cent, in curing; the Tokay 60 per cent.; 
and other varieties, including Muscats, from 60 to 70 per cent. Or 
in other words, 100 lbs. of grapes will make 30 to 50 Sbs. of raisins, 
according to the variety of grape used. You will thus observe that 
the amount of grapes per acre will range from 3,000 Bbs. of a light 
crop of Feher Szagos to 20,000 lbs. from a heavy crop of Largas. 
And right here we wish to have it borne in mind that we are writing 
about "raisins;" not the tough, ill-flavored, hard-seed, dried grapes, 
made from Catawbas, Missions, Zinfiudals, Sweetwaters, Hamburgs, 
or any other wine, table grapes, or trash that happens to be growing 
on the farm; h\it raisins, fine, large, bright, bloom-covered, plump, 
luscious, sugary raisins. And for such, when once they become 
known to the world, we do not think that we are over-estimating 
the price when we assume that we can rely upon receiving at least 
ten Gents per pound for them delivered at the railroad. That the 
sales will amount to from $300 to $2,000 per acre, gold coin. I have 
data of a positive character which lead me to rely upon clearing 
$1,000 per acre, annually, from my vineyard, when in full bearing. 

To plow the land well, construct distributing ditches, furnish the 
best of cuttings on the ground, and set them in the best possible 
manner, is worth $30 per acre. The care for the first year, irrigat- 
ing, etc., would be about the same as for corn — say $10 per acre. 
Added to this, after the first year, is an additional expense for 
pruning; or a total cost yearly of about $15 per acre. In addition 
to this, there is the cost of picking, curing and packing, which 
makes a total of about one half per cent, per pound for each pound 
of cured raisins, not reckoning the cost of boxes, which would be an 
additional expense, and could be made to amount to much or little, 
according to the manner in which they are packed. 



RAISIN GRAPES. XVll 

The above writer assuraes, in estimating the expense 
of cultivating a raisin vineyard, that irrigation is neces- 
sary. This does not accord with our ideas or experience. 
The vines, and perhaps the fruit, may grow more luxuri- 
antly by irrigation; but that the quality of the fruit or of 
the raisins will be as fine or delicious, is against the ex- 
perience of the best and most extensive raisin-growers in 
this or the best raisin districts of Europe. About Mal- 
aga, the best raisin region in Europe, the grapes are 
chiefly grown on the hill-sides; and in our travels among 
them, and through the Vega of Granada, among the best 
vineyards of Andalusia, we noticed no appearance of irri- 
gation, although the facilities for irrigating that fertile 
valley of Granada for other crops, are still kept up as 
in the days when the Moors occupied that portion of 
Spain and were considered the best horticulturists in the 
world. In some of the driest and best grape regions of 
our State, along the foot-hills, through Pleasant Valley, 
and Solano and Yolo Counties, no irrigation is resorted 
to, or considered necessary, which materially reduces 
the expense of cultivating a vineyard; and whether for 
raisins, or table grapes, or for wine, it can be demon- 
strated that they are better without irrigation than with. 

The cost of Malaga raisins in Spain is from $3.12^^ to 
$3.50 per box of twenty-five pounds. The duty is five 
cents per pound; add to this the cost of freight, commis- 
sion, insurance, etc., and the cost to the consumer in the 
United States is increased to not less than $5 per box. 
Late advices from Sj)ain announce an advance to 82 and 
33 reals, or $4 to $5.12J per box in the United States, to 
$5.50 per box, or 22 cents per pound. 

Among those who have taken prizes at our Fairs for 



XVlll APPENDIX. 

choice California-made raisins, are B. N. Bugbey, Folsom; 
Robt. Chalmers, Coloma; I. S. Bamber, Placerville; Miss 
Nellie Lansing, Sacramento; M. R. Miller, Pleasant Val- 
ley; R. B. Blowers, Yolo County. A car load of raisins 
was shipped to Chicago the past season, with remuner- 
ative returns. 

A writer in the Rural Press, says : 

From 900 to 1200 of these vines cau be cultivated to the acre, and 
from five to ten pounds of raisins to the vine may reasonably be ex" 
pected. Indeed, we were informed by Mr. Brown (of Placer County) 
that he gathered last year from some of his five-year-old Muscat 
vines, over 50 lbs. of fine grapes to the vine; and that from two and 
a half to five tons of raisins can easily be cleared from an acre of 
Muscat-bearing vines. With a liberal estimate for cultivating, pick- 
ing, curing, boxing, and freighting, it seems apparent that these 
raisins can be delivered to the grocer in New York at an expense of 
seven cents per pound to the producer. Estimating only a moderate 
advance from this cost, of five cents per pound, we have a net profit 
of from $250 to $500 per acre. 

The ' ^Alden Process " for curing raisins seems to have 
been successful so far as we know. In some cases, those 
who were curing their raisins in the sun were caught out 
by the early, unexpected rains, and had to resort to the 
Alden Process to finish their curing. This, we believe, 
was successfully done. "We have seen some fine raisins 
made by this Alden Process, but they seemed too moist 
to keep well. Time will determine its utility. 

Mr. M. R. Miller, the pioneer fruit-grower of Pleasant 
Valley, made and shipped to market, the past season ^ 
GOO boxes of sun-dried raisins, or 15,000 Bbs., made 
chie^y from the White Muscat of Alexandria. Mr. Miller 
has 40,000 bearing vines. 

Mr. R. B. Blowers, of Yolo County, produced $5,000 
worth of raisins the past season. 



PART V. 

WINES AND WINE GRAPES. 

The wine interest of California is becoming one of no 
small importance. The corrected statistics of 1874, as 
will be seen by reference to the tables, although much 
below what many consider the true amount, show a 
product in that year of 5,292,575 gallons of wine, beside- 
half a million gallons of brandy. Of this amount, Sos 
noma County produced 1,836,000 gallons of wine; Los 
Angeles County, 1,1G4,800 gallons; Napa County, 716,- 
070; Yolo County, 200,000— which are thus far the lead- 
ing wine counties of the State. Some of the counties, 
as, for instance, Solano, Yolo, Sacramento, etc., being 
near San Francisco, and having the earliest table grapeg 
of the season, dispose of a large portion of their grape 
crop in that manner. 

Some authorities place the total amount Of the products 
of the vine in wines and brandy at a much higher figure, 
as, for instance, the Wine Growers' Convention of Cali- 
fornia, at their meeting at Sacramento, in February, 
1872, state the amount of wine produced in the year 

1870, at 3,800,000 gallons; of brandy, at 157,050; for 

1871, wine, 6,000,000 gallons, and brandy, 200,000 gal- 
lons; and in the Transactions of the California State 
Agricultural Society for 1874, they have adojpted the 

( 2cix ) 



XX APPENDIX. 

estimate of the Quarterly Wine Circular, which states the 
amount of wine for that year at 10,000,000 gallons. 
There is no doubt that if all or a considerable portion of 
the wine grapes in the State were properly utilized and 
made up, this amount of ten million gallons may hav6 
been realized in 1875. 

This Wine Circular gives the prices current at which 
those wines were sold, in round lots, delivered free on 
board ship or rail, casks included, thus: 

PER GALLON. 

Dry red wines, from Mission grapes $ .45 to $ .60 

Dry red wines, from Mission grapes (blended) 55 " .75 

Dry white wines, from Mission grapes 45 " .55 

Dry wliite wines, from Mission grapes (blended) 50 " .65 

Dry white wines, from Muscat or Muscatelle grapes . . .60 •' .90 

Port .' 70 " 1.00 

Ant^elica 65 " .90 

Swt-et Tokay, 85; sweet dessert wines 85 " 1.00 

Siierry 75 " 1.00 

If we were to put the average price of these wines at 
60 cents per gallon, and the quantity at 10,000,000 gal- 
lons, there will be the neat little sum of $6,000,000 per 
annum for the wine crop alone. 

Reputation of California Wines Abroad. 
The following testimonial from Bell's Weehly 3Iessenger, 
London, though not entirely new, is, nevertheless, worth 
preserving in our pages: 

California Wines in London. 
The California wines, to which we referred last week, are a 
remarkable production. We have heard much of the prolific and 
hiscious character of ordinary fruits produced on the hill-sides and 
in the valleys of the Western State, which is fanned by the warm air 
of the Pacific Ocean, but, till recently — indeed, until this Inter- 
national Exhibition of wines more particularly — we have had no 
indication of the capacity for wine-yielding grapes which belongs to 
the soil and climate of California. Messrs. H. Starr & Co., of 22 
Morgate Street, have, however, a stand upon which they show four 



■VSTtNE GRAPES. XXI 

kinds of wine that cannot fail to grow in favor with the British pub- 
lic. These are the production of one estate, and manufactured and 
bottled by the owner, so that nothing in the form of mixing or 
adulterating may take place to injure the character of this produce. 
The wines shown in the Albert Hall vaults are of the vintage of 1868. 
Two of them are dry and two are sweet. No. 1, which is reckoned 
to be the first in quality, is named after Gerke, the owner of the 
estate from which it came. This Gerke is certainly a clean, delicate, 
and finely-flavored wine. The other, Muscat, is made from the Muscat 
of Alexandria grape; and, while its quality is fine, its flavor is pecul- 
iar, and many persons would not like it at first, but we doubt if there 
are but few who would not quickly acquire as great a taste for the 
musky aroma it yields as persons generally have for the same flavor 
in the grape after which it is named. The sweet wines are named 
Bosqujo and Angelica, the former after the vineyard. These wines 
are as rich and clean in the mouth as such luscious beverages can 
be. Their quality and flavor are superior, and we shall be surprised 
if we do not hear that they have become great favorites as dessert 
wines. 

The estate on which these wines are grown is situate on the foot- 
hills in the county of Tehama. Henry Gerke, the proprietor, has 
taken every trouble to produce these wines, so that they may acquire 
an established reputation. So far as we may judge from the samples 
and cases which are shown at Kensington, we may confidently say 
that he has not only deserved success but achieved it. The grapes 
produced on this estate are expected, from experiments which have 
been made with them, to yield first-class qualities of sparkling wines, 
and but little, if anything, inferior to the champagnes and hocks of 
France. As we import double as much "champagne" and "hock" 
into the country as the vineyards of Europe produce, we shall be 
glad to welcome a supply from California grapes, for to know that 
it is made from grape-juice is better than to feel assured that much 
that is offered must be nothing more nor less than productions from 
the juices of rhubarb and beet-root. 

"We still maintain that the standard price and quality 
of our wines may be raised to $1 or over; all that is re- 
quired is to cultivate the proper kinds of grapes in the 



XXll APPENDIX. 

proper places, and take the proper care and skill in the 
manufacture of the wines. That our viniculturists may 
have more readily at hand a list of the kind of grapes 
that are used by the vintagers of France in making their 
best wines, we transcribe and append a list from a French 
work on "Vineyard Culture," by A. Du Breuil, Professor 
of Viniculture and Arboriculture in the Koyal School of 
Arts and Trades, Paris. Some of our readers may already 
have a portion of these varieties in their vineyards; others 
may find it an object to obtain them, even if they have 
to import them. Some of them may succeed in the States 
East and South. 

Although there has been great improvement in the 
quality as well as quantity of our California wines within 
the past decade, there has been less improvement in the 
matter of introducing and testing new varieties of wine 
grapes than was expected and desired. In fact, we find 
very little to be added to the lists of wine grapes given 
in the body of this work, except the French varieties just 
noticed. Some that had no established rej)utation as 
wine grapes eight or ten years ago have since come to 
the front as su^Derior for wine making. And in a paper 
recently read before the Academy of Sciences of California 
by Professor Blake, that gentleman, in describing the 
properties necessary in a wine grape, speaks thus of the 
Reimer grape : 

I had made several analyses of the juice of the different varie- 
ties of grapes, and found that those which made the best wine con- 
tained the largest percentage of malic acid. The Mission grape, 
which is the most prolific, produces the poorest quality of wine; but 
the Eeimer contained a large percentage of malic acid, and I 
thought that it was certainly the most desirable grape for wine man- 
ufacture in California. 



WINE GRAPES. XXlll 

"We are not aware that this grape has been used to any 
great extent in this State, nor have we any particular 
description of it. It is well, we think, to give it a trial. 

As an indication of the reputation and relative value of 
the grapes most generally used for wine making in this 
State, we give the selection and awards made for the best 
wine grapes by the California Vine and "Wine Growers* 
Association, in 1873: 

Twelve Best Varieties for Wiyie. — To J. E-. Nickerson, 
Lincoln, for best twelve varieties of wine grapes — Zin- 
findal, Berger, B. Malvasia, Upright Burgundy, Y. Or- 
leans, Red Tramina, Muscateller, White Reisling, Miller's 
Burgundy, Barbareaux (or, Barbarossa), Golden Chasse- 
las, B. Frontignan — premium, $25. 

Best Six Varieties for Wine. — To H. T. Hutchinson, 
Marysville — White Beisling, B. Burgundy, Muscateller, 
Golden Chasselas, Zinfindal, B. Malvasia — premium, $20. 

Tlwee Best Varieties for Wine. — To J. R. Nickerson — 
White Beisling, Muscateller, Zinfindal — premium, $15. 

Best Two Varieties of Wine Grapes. — To H. T. Hutchin- 
son — White Reisling, Zinfindal — premium, $10. 

Best One Variety for Wine, — J. R. Nickerson — White 
Reisling — premium, $20. 

As all those grapes, and some other new varieties, are 
not specially described in the body of this work, we here 
supply the omission : 

Berger. — Large branching clusters; berries medium 
size, close set, light color. 

Black Malvasia. — Bunches small, loosely set; berries 
medium size, a little oblong, black; slightly acid in flavor. 

Orleans. — Bunches good size, long, but little or no 
taper; berries medium size, round, thick set, white, with 
light bloom. 



XXIV APPENDIX. 

Bual. — Bunches large, well shouldered, loose branches; 
berries large, round, dark purple, thin skin, fine flavor; 
an oxcellent table as well as sherry grape. 

Italian Wine. — Bunches large, well shouldered, tapering 
down small; berries large, round, black, with rich bloom; 
juicy, fine flavor, but seeds rather large. 

Pkemiums for California Wines. 

By the same Association premiums were awarded for 
the following kinds of wine: 

Port, Angelica, Sherry, Burgundy, Malaga, Madeira, 
Tokay, White Wine, Red Zinfindal, Red Wine, Sweet 
Red, Sweet White, White Reisling, White Native, White 
Old Hock, Red Burgundy; and a number of premiums 
were awarded for Grape Brandy. 

Champagne, Claret, Sauterne, and almost every variety 
of wine, more or less valuable, is made in California. A 
writer in one of the daily San Francisco papers who 
seems pretty well posted, thus describes the kinds of 
wine produced: 

The Sonoma white wines are considered to bear a resemblance in 
flavor to those of Germany; those of Napa Valley and part of iSanta 
Clara, to clarets; those of Sacramento Valley, near the foot-hills, 
resemble the sweet Muscats; those of El Dorado are like Burgundy; 
those of San Joaquin and Stanislaus approach the Madeira; the 
White wines of Los Angeles have some similarity to the celebrated 
wines of Chablis; while Solano produces natural Ports. 

The same writer speaks thus of the sparkling wines 
made by the natural process : 

They have become an established necessity. Everywhere have 
they won praise and laurels. Their success was a fact even six years 
ago, when only two manufacturing establishments were in operation. 
And now, since the ruling of Commissioner Douglas that cham- 
pagnes made by the "soda fountain" or imitation process must be 



^VINE GRAPES. XXV 

stamped, the genuine mannfacturers have taken renewed hope, and 
ah'eady two new establishments have commenced operations. It 
is to be hoped that the courts will sustain the Commissioner in his 
ruling; for upon this and this only depends the continued prosperity 
of this branch of industry. The sparkling wines made by the imita- 
tion process can, it is said, in no way compete with even the poorest 
imported, except in price. On the other hand, it is averred that those 
made by the natural method compare well with the best imported to 
our market. These are not only able to bear transportation well, 
but improve greatly by the voj^age. Landsberger & Co. are doing a 
large business in manufacturing these sparkling wines, in San Fran- 
cisco. At the present time there are six establishments in the State 
working by the natural process, making 300,000 quart bottles of 
champagne per annum. There is but one establishment making use 
of the imitation process, producing about 50,000 bottles annually, 
and it is reported that this establishment is about abandoning the 
artificial process and using the natural one. 

The profits of wine making are, strange as it may seem, much 
greater in California than in France. This would hardly be expected, 
owing to the high price of labor here. This, however, is more than 
counterbalanced by our superior methods of cultivation; by there 
being no necessity of using expensive manures; by our more favor- 
able seasons, and by the greater productiveness of the soil. The 
Tines have to be staked and tied in France, which is not the case 
here. The cost of cultivation in France, where all the work is done 
by hand, is estimated by Mr. Haraszthy at $35 per acre, whereas in 
California it is only, on an average, $15 per acre. In California, 
too, the average rate of production is 400 gallons per acre; in France, 
only 200 gallons. It is true that some French wines, even before 
they are exported, are worth $15 per gallon, while California wines 
rarely exceed a dollar per gallon; but the vast majority of the former 
are worth very low prices, some coming down as low as ten cents 
per gallon. At the end of seven years, the value of the yield of an 
acre of grapes planted longitudinally is about $68, and deducting 
from this amount $23 for cultivation, etc., there are left $45 per acre 
as profit. It will thus be seen that the i^rofits of wine making are 
greater than those of any other agricultural pursuit, but it also takes 
a much longer time and greater patience to wait for results, which 
do not begin to be apparent till after the lapse of a few years. 



xxvi appendix. 

The Wine Haevest in France. 
A sharp calculator has made an effort to present the 
French wine product of 1875 to popular understanding. 
He says, it amounts to 2,000,000,000 gallons, and asserts 
that it would fill a canal 3J feet deep and 3^ feet wide — 
4, GOO miles long, or five times as long as all the canals 
of Ohio. He calculated further, that to draw 25 gallons 
a minute it would take 135 years and 18 days to draw ofi 
the whole quantity. The most productive department is 
that of Herault. It produced 2,500,000 gallons of wine. 



PAKT Yl. 

chief wine and vine gkowers of the state. 

Sonoma the Banner "Wine County. 

For a number of years, and until a recent date, Los 
Angeles was the leading County of the State in wine 
making. But it would seem, by recent statistics, that 
Sonoma has taken the laurels from Los Angeles in the 
enterprise of wine making. 

From an elaborate report of the vine and wine interest 
of Sonoma County, prepared by R. A. Thompson, Esq., 
the intelligent and reliable editor of the Sonoma Demo- 
crat, furnished to the State Agricultural Society, and 
published in its last volume of Transactions for 1874, we 
condense some valuable and interesting statistics. It 
will be seen that he shows the number of gallons of wine 
produced in that County, in 1874, to have been 1,836,000 
gallons. He gives the names of the several persons and 
parties, and the quantities produced by each, which we 
summaiize thus: 

NO. VINES. GALLONS WINE. 

5 Persons (named) 403,000 

28 " " .". 575,000 

6 " " 179,000 121,000 

5 " " 259,000 

6 '« " 378,000 

Estimated for balance of the County 100,000 

Total 1,836,000 

Forty-one persons, named, bad 1,100 tons of grapes on 313,745 
vines; or about 285 vines to a ton, or 7 S)S. to tbe vine. Five persons 

( xxvii ) 



XXVlll 



APPENDIX. 



or parties, named, from 905 acres of vines produced 403,000 gallons 
of wine; or about 445% gallons per acre. Six other persons, named, 
from 179,000 vines produced 121,000 gallons wine; or about 1% vines 
to the gallon. Fourteen other persons, named, having 125 acres of 
vines, produced 618 tons of grapes; or about 4 tons to the acre. And 
all this, from vines not yet fully matured. 

In this report Mr. Thompson, it will be observed, 
makes the total amount of wine produced in the County, 
1,836,000 gallons; while the Surveyor-General puts the 
amount at 446,200 gallons. But, as Mr. Thompson's 
statement is made from information derived directly from 
the vintners themselves, we adopt his statement as the 
most complete and reliable. 

Chief Vine and Wine- Geo wers of the State. 

We have not the names, nor could we find space for 
those of all the vine and wine growers of the State; we 
therefore confine our lists to such as cultivate 10,000 
vines or upwards, and those who produce 10,000 gallons 
of wine or upwards — so far as we have the names: 



SONOMA COUNTY. 



GALLONS WINE. 

Buena Vista Vin. Soc 200,000 

Jacob Hanbert 45,000 

J. K. Snyder 18,000 

L. W. Myers 14,()00 

Dr. J. B. Marfield 30,000 

G. W. Whitman 35,000 

John E. Clark 23,000 

M. Carriger 30.000 

O. W. Craig 33,000 

J. Trapoli 20'/000 

M. Eiigler 15.000 

W. A. Thompson 12,000 

A. F. Haraszthy 16,000 

S. C. Collins (9,000 vines) 15,000 

Wm. Hood 50,000 

Barney Hoen 30,000 

Mauschuit & Hoelscher 150.000 

Me.\ 1 & L"iding 60,000 

C. A^'uillon 30,000 

Gundlach & Dressel 115,000 



943.000 



GALLON 



Henry Winkle .... 

A, S. Edwards 

J. A. Williams 

C V. Stewart 

Geo. E. Watris 

A.. Lamot 

L. Goss 

Herman Mohler... 

W. R.Rogers 

Koh!er & Fr oh ling. 

L. Tichiier 

F. Ehrlich 

I. DeTurk 

Remmel & Co 

Geo. Shaw 

Fisclier & Frenl ... 
A. Daminiani 



\^INES. 

943,000 

. 25,000 
40,000 
34,000 
45,000 
14,000 
24,000 
12,100 
25,000 
40,000 
75,000 
70,000 
10,000 

150,000 
80,000 
10,000 
90,000 
40,000 



Total of 37 vintner.s of So- 
noma Co 1,727,000 



CHIEF WINE AND VINE GROWERS OF THE STATE. XXIX 

Among other leading wine makers of the State are: in 
Coloma, Eobert Chalmers, El Dorado County; Napa 
Valley, Le Grist Brothers, Dr. Crane, Chas. King, G. 
Groginger, Pellet & Carver; Sacramento, B. N. Bugbey, 
Orleans Hill Association; Placer, J. E. Nickerson; Los 
Angeles, L. J. Rose, Gen. Vallejo, M. Keller; Santa 
Clara, C. Lefranc, P. Sansevain; San Joaquin, Geo. 
West, C. Detton; Tehama, H. Gerke; Stanislaus, A. S. 
Schell; San Francisco, Landsberger & Co.; Solano, 
Wolfskin Brothers, E. E. Thurber, Georges Zoany, Vaca- 
ville. 



PART VII. 

GRAPES PEODUCINa THE BEST WINES IN FRANCE. 

1. Burgundy. The best products of Burgundy are: 
for red wines, those of Romanee-Conti, Chambertin, 
Richbourg, Clos-Saint-Georges, Gorton, Clos-de-Vougeot, 
Volnay, Pomard, Nuits. These wines are produced 
chiefly from the Black Pinot. 

For white wines the best are from Montrachet, Meur- 
sault, Chablis, where the White Pinot is used. 

2. Bordelais. The chief crops of this country are: for 
red wines, those of Medoc, Chateau-Margeaux, Chateau- 
Lafitte, Chateau-Latour, Haut Brion, Saint Julien, Saint 
Estephe, and in the gravelly districts of Bordeaux, those 
of Talence, Saint Emilion, near Libourne. These vine- 
yards are composed, almost exclusivel}'', of the Carmenet, 
Malbeck, Merlot, and Verdot plants. 

For white wines, Chateaux-Yquem (Sauterne), Coutet 
(Barsac), Chateaux-Carbouniex (Villeneuve d'Ornon). 
These wines are the i)roduce of the Semillion, the Rocha- 
lin, and the Blanquette. 

3. Champagne. The products of Ay, Sillery, Epernay, 
of Versenay, Pierry, Avise, Cramont, are the most cele- 
brated of that country. The plants occupying the first 
rank here are, particularly, the Gray Pinot, the White 
Muscat and Black Muscat. 

( XXX ) 



BEST WINE-PRODUCING GRAPES OF FRANCE. XXxi 

4. Banks of the Rhine. The products of Cote Kotie 
and Condrieu are extensively comj)osed of Black Serine 
and White Vionnier. 

5. Drome. The red wine of FErmitage is produced 
by the Big and Little Sirah; the plants of Marsanne and 
Boussane jdeld the white wine of FErmitage. 

6. Herault. The wines of Lunel and Frontignan are 
produced by the AVhite Muscat, the Picardan, and the 
j)lant of Calabria. 

7. Upper Rhine. The Rhine wines, and particularly 
those of Johannisberg, are the products of the Big and 
Little Beisling. 

8. Eastern Pyrenees. The wines known as Alicante, 
Grenache, Collioure, are of the Bed Grenache, the Ali- 
cante, and the Grignane. The wine of Bivesaltes is 
the product of the White Muscat, Alexandrian Muscat, 
and the St. Jacques Muscat. 

9. Ardeche. The wine of St. Peray is from the Big 
Bousette and Little Bousette. 

10. Cher. The wine of Pouilly is from the White 
Pinot. 

11. Aude. The Blanquette of Limoux is produced 
from the Blanquette. 

12. Lower Pyrenees. The red wines' of Juracon are 
from the following jDlants: Pinene, Mensec, Menseing, 
and Tannat. The white wines of Jurancon are from the 
Refiat, the Menseing, the Claneric, the Aulban, and the 
Courtoisie. 

13. Jura. The white wines of Chateau-Chalons, the 
yellow and spirituous wines of Arbois, known also under 
the name of the straw wines, are produced by the Sauva- 
gin, or wild plant. 

As we deem it a matter of interest to the viniculturistj 



XXXll APPENDIX. 

we subjoin a more minute description of the several 
varieties of grapes enumerated in the foregoing list, 
from the same authority: 

BEST WINE GRAPES OF FRANCE, WITH THE DATES OF 
THEIR MATURITY. 

First Period — 25^/i of August in the South of France; 1th 
of October at Paris and Northern France. 

Colored Grapes. 

Blach Franc. — Black, oblong berries; light, pleasant 
wine; adapted to light, calcareous soils. 

Black Pinot. — Yields little, but most delicate wine; its 
wood being very slender it is staked in France. (Bur- 
gundy.) 

Liverdun. — Large leaves, without down; oblong ber- 
ries; yielding much wine, but not very alcoholic. (Lor- 
raiiie.) 

White and Gray Grapes. 

Blanquette. — Under side of leaf somewhat downy; ber- 
ries rather oblong; pleasant flavor; large, fall bunches, 
drying quickly on the stock. (Aude and Dordogne.) 

Gray Pinot. — Berries dead-leaf color; very delicate; 
light wine; fine aroma. (Sillery-Versenay.) 

White Pinot. — Oblong berries; loose, with brown spot; 
golden color; fine wine; yield small. (Montrachet.) 

Second Period — 1st of September in the South; October 
20^7i in latitude of Paris. 

Black or Red Grapes. 
Big Gamais (large-headed Pinot). — Leaves downy on 
the under side; leaf stalk purple; bunches numerous; 
wine flat and acid. (Burgundy.) 



BEST WINE-PROD CCINa GRAPES OF FRANCE. XXXIU 

Little Gamais (Black Gamais of Lj^ons). — Pretty prO' 
ductive; yields a wine of good quality. (Maconnais.) 

Black Muscat of Jura. 

3Ierlot. — Leaves deeply indented; rough, downy under 

side; berries round, of a velvety black; skin fine; apt to 

rot in wet seasons; very productive, and much liked. 

(Bordelais.) 

"White Grapes. 

Semillon. — Leaves much indented, of a light green; 
large bunches; berries round and loose, light j'ellow; 
hardy plant; eyes close together. (Bordelais.) 

White Moinllion. — Leaves large, little indented; berries 
not very close, quite round, but spotted brown; sweet 
flavor and aroma; good yielder. (Champagne.) 

Third Period — 21th of September in the South; do not 
mature in the latitude of Paris. 

Colored Grapes. 
Black Muscat. — ^Very productive. (Vauclause.) 
Black Serine. — Leaves slender, smooth and pointed; 
one of the lobes smaller than the other; bunches long; 
berries oblong and scattering. (Cotes du Rhone.) 

Carmenet. — Leaves thin, with fine-pointed, smooth 
lobes; bunches thin; moderate sized berries, round and 
black; stem and pedicles purple; wood reddish; wine fine 
and clear; great bouquet; will keep; yield pretty regular, 
but not large. (Bordelais.) 

White Grapes. 
Gi'een Savagnin. — Leaves round, dark green, downy 
underneath; leaf stalks and veins red; long berries; skin 
thick, with greenish tinge. (Jura, Cote d'Or, Cham- 
pagne.) 



XXXIV APPENDIX. 

Fourth Period — October 2d in the South; will not ripen in 
the latitude of Paris. 

Colored Grapes. 

Grenache. — Leaves smooth on both sides; bunches 
fine; berries sparse, not very close, oblong, bluish black; 
joints short; suffers from spring frosts; wine very sweet; 
productive; strong, ferruginous soils. (Gard, Herault, 
Vauclause.) 

Mourvedre. — Leaves with purple veins; downy under- 
neath; red wood, with purple ej^es; berries round, of 
medium size, sky blue, taste not very pleasant; thick 
skin; strong wine, which will bear transportation, and 
keep a long time; early bearer; does not blight. (Vau- 
clause.) 

White Grapes. 

Clair ette. — Leaves very green on the upper side, and 
downy on the under side; bunches long; berries oblong, 
not crowded, firm and sweet; keeps well; white wine of 
good quality; very productive in virgin and fertile soils; 
somewhat apt to blight. 

Picardan. — Light green grape, oval, somewhat firm, 
without being tough; very sweet; keeps well; wine 
smooth, will sparkle easily; not productive. 

White Muscat. — Of all these grapes this is the sweetest, 
and the one having the most aroma; very good for the 
table. (Lunel, Frontignan.) 

Fifth Period — lO^/i of October in the South; do not ripen in 
the latitude of Paris. 

Colored Grapes. 
Pique Porde. — Close-jointed wood; berries oblong. 



BEST WINE-PRODUCING GRAPES OF FRANCE. XXXV 

close, reddish black; very good grape; fine, delicate, 
strong wine; not productive; must be close trimmed. 
(La Yerthe.) ^ 

Tenet- Bouret. — Light red or gray berries, oval; large 
bunches, weighing as much as eight pounds; hangs 
heavy; seldom blights; likes good soil, and will bear a 
good deal of manure; grown princix^ally for brandy. 



PART VIII. 

DISEASES OR PESTS OF THE VINE. 

There is little cause in California to complain of dis- 
eased vines or grapes. In a few damp localities near 
the coast, -or where the vines have been j)l^iited on low, 
moist, flat land, there has been occasional damage by 
mildew, which is easily remedied by the use of sulphur. 
But there is another vine pest that has recently made its 
appearance among some of the vineyards of our State. 

The Phylloxera. 
In a recent lecture by Dr. Blake, before the Academy 
of Sciences of California, he thus described this pest, 
and the way to get rid of it: 

Dr. Blake first called attention to the ravages made by the phyl- 
loxera, or vine pest, and gave a length}'' account of his researches 
into the matter. He has been for some days making examinations 
in Napa County, and finds that these pests are doing considerably 
more damage than -was at first expected. They live entirely on the 
roots, instead of the leaves, as was generally supposed. They enter 
the longitudinal cracks in the bark of the root, instead of the cracks 
in the gTound; and he finds in some instances the roots completely 
lined. An investigation disclosed the fact that they are very de- 
structive; and upon the roots carrying the most insects, the vines 
bear less fruit. "When the vine is attacked, it is only a question of 
time when it will be killed. He would suggest to the vine growers 
to examine their roots for the insects, which would be found in 
( xxxvi ) 



DISEASES OR PESTS OF THE TINE. XXXV U 

patches, some as deep as a foot under the earth. The remedy which 
he suggests is, to encircle the root at the ground with pitch, or train 
oil, or, in fact, anything which is distasteful to them. By following 
this course it will prevent their spreading, if not kill the insects. 

"We should think that an application to the roots of a 
mixture of fine earth and fresh ashes, a little wet, would 
lye them out. Chas. V. Rilej, an eminent entomologist 
at the East, says: "A strong decoction of soap-suds and 
tobacco, used hot, as for freeing young apple trees from 
root-lice, is the best for dipping young vines from the 
nursery to free them from phylloxera."' 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Acres to till for 100 acre vineyard, by cuttings and layers, 1st, 2d, 

3d, 4th, 5th, and 6th years 90, 91 

Adobe lands not suitable for vines 48 55 

Agriculture, Department of, Washington, looks to California as the 

great wine country of the world 29, 30 

Altitude, proper, for a vineyard 64, 65 

Alhoff, Martin, vineyard of 118 

American Grapes, native varieties of 167-178 

"Wiues 253 

Americans, wines for 253 

America, South, Table lands of, not suited to grape culture, and why 37 

Anaheim, wines of 224 

Analysis of Cal. mnes 219, 220 

Of the wild grape vine . ; 43 

Of the soil for vineyard, simple mode of. 43 

Andalusia, soils of vineyards in 42 

Angelica wine, how made 224 

Aspect of a vineyard, its influence upon the quality of the grape. . . 56 

Vineyards in Malaga, Oporto, Ac 65 

Author, his reasons for writing this book ' 9 

Home-vineyard at Mount G-len wood 9 

Reasons for believing pure wines promote temperance. . 12 

Eflbrts to promote temperance for 40 years 12 

Haste in writing this work 16 

Manuring his vineyard in Morocco 42 

His experiences in Morocco 181-185 

China, Cuba, Japan, Java, South America 7 

Spain, Malaga 185-188 

His Concluding Remarks , 263, 264 

Autumn, a mild, essential for the grape 37 

Best soils for a vineyard 41-53 

Climate for a vineyard 31-39 

Varieties of grapes for a vineyard 131-179 

Bliglit and mildew no new diseases. Spoken of by the prophet Amos . 240 

Brandy, Grape, distillation of 225 

Buds, terminal, mature shoots better than those from spurs 128 

12 



286 i:n'dkx. 



PAGE 

Buena Vista Yinicultural Society's modes of planting a vineyard by 

layers 74-79 

Buena Vista Vinicultural Society's modes, wine making operations 

of 204-209 

Bugbey, B. N., Raisins made by 166, 250 

Vineyards, and grapes of, Foher Szagos, grape 166 

Burgundy wine in California, 224 

California, Commencement of grape cuJlure in 7 

Destined to be the favored land of the vine, fig, etc 10 

Inducements to cultivate the vine in 19-;;0 

Eleven reasons for growing the vine in 19-2 1 

Grapes, Report of Committee of State Ag'l Soc'y on . . 1 65, 1 66 

Vinicultural i^rogress in 21 

Raisin making in, Bugbey's and others. . . . ■. 166, 189 

Best adapted of all tlie U. S. to the culture of the grape ; 

Muench's opinion 34 

Climate of, well adapted to the growth of the grape ; 
Managers of Buena Vista Vin. Society, opinion 

of 35-36 

Col. Harasztliy's opinion of 36 

Soils adapted to grape culture, various authorities on . . . 47 
Soil and climate of, compared with those of Morocco and 

Spain 42 

Highly favored by nature for a wine country 51 

No longer need of faikire in grape growing in 52 

Best varieties of grapes for a vineyard in 131-179 

Mr. Detten's List of. 133, 134 

Wines and Wine Vineyards of 217 

Wines, Report of Committee of St. Louis Horticult. Soc on 217 

Analysis of 219, 220 

New Orleans Delta on '. 220 

New York Home Journal's opinion of 221 

Exhibition of at Cal. State Agricl Fair, 1S66 222 

Awards for, at San Joaquin Valley Agric'l Fair . . 222 

Product of, for 1866, estimated 223 

Burgundy wine of 224 

Cold graperies, little need of in 233 

Why the choice grape growing districts of, are free from 

mildew 242 

Fruit tor the World's Fair, how put up 252 

Casks, wine ; home manufacture of 212 

Cellars, Wine 214 

China, precocious growth of vines in, at the Author's mansion. , 98 

Chinese make or use little or no wine 13 

Use of Samshu by : Rice their daily bread 13 

Grapes 150 

Citron'zed Grapes 197 

Clarifying wines 210 



IXDEX. 267 



PAGB 

Climate best adapted to the growth of the grape 31-39 

Influence of, on the grape 31 

Climate and soil of Cal. compared with those of Andalusia, Morocco, 

etc 42 

Of Cal. and Morocco 184 

Cold graperies, little need of in Cal 233 

Dimensions of a 534 

Varieties of grape for ... 2o4 

Less expensive mode of constructing 237 

In Cal., no artificial heat required in 238 

Cost of planting a vineyard, Col. Haraszthy's estimate of for B. Y. 

Vin. S. vineyard 74-7 7 

Of planting a vineyard with cuttings and layers for ten 

years, with tables 92. 93 

Of one acre with layers; same, planting with rooted vines 87, 88 

Wine making, with details 93, 94 

Cultivating the vineyard with cuttings 90 

First, second, and third years 90 

Fourth and fifth " 91 

Sixth " 91 

Cultivator, shallow, when to use 91 

Curative qualities of' the grape 257 

Cut, illustrating layers of four years' growth 91 

Cuttings, planting by, the most economical of all modes 80 

Injunction to save 128 

Preparation of, for planting ; proper length of. 69, 81 

Modes of planting and propagating by 80, 82 

And grafts, how packed 105, 106 

Planting with a dibble 80, 81 

When to be cut from vines 82 

Nursery for 82 

Detail cost of planting a vineyard of 100 acres 92, 93 

Wine making 93, 94 

Detten's, Clement, mode of planting a vineyard 70 

Diagram A, showing an acre laid off for planting, with cuttings, 

layers, etc 86 

B, showing 100 acre vineyard, planted by cuttings, layers, 

etc 89 

Dibble, used for planting cuttings, (cut of) 81 

Diseases of the grape, and remedies for 245 

Distance apart for vines; the Wolfskills' and Miller's vineyards. . 73, 74 

Buena Vista V. S. vineyard, 4x4. .74-79 

Distances apart, table showing number of vines at various 79 

Eden, Garden of and its fruits 10 

Enclosing vineyard with hedge of Osage Orange 71 

Eshcol, grapes of. 14 

Europe, best soils ol", for vineyards, that produce good wines 65 

European wines and vintage 227-231 



268 INDEX. 



.PAGE 

Exposc.re, best, for a vineyard 56-66 

Influence of, upon the quality of fruit 56 

Eyes, mode of propagating by 106, 107 

Mr. Barry's account of the mode of in Ohio 107 

Fever and ague do not exist where the grape flourishes 249 

FHnt, Wilson, his account of grape harvests in Cal 22 

Foot-hills in Cal. well adapted to the growth of the grape 48 

Superiority of, for vine culture 49 

Foreign countries, Author's experience in 10 

France, produce in, of wine, per acre 22 

Hill-side exposure of vineyards in 66 

"Wine growing in 230 

"Wine crop of 260 

Number of adres of vines in 261 

Fruit, first bearing of 90 

Best, produced on strongest and best-ripened shoots 3 28 

Preservation of, modes of 255 

Growers' Association of Western New York, discussions 

of, on the i:)roper soil for a vineyard 45 

Geographical and isothermal divisions of the grape-growing regions 

of Cal 61, 63 

In the States East 63, 64 

Geography of plants, Mr. Lippincott's Essay on, in the States East, . 36. 

Germany, produce of wine per acre in 23 

Hill-sides, and exposures of vineyards in 66 

Trenching of vineyards in 69 

Hock vineyards of 261, 262 

German wines 147, 148 

Remedy for the grape rot 246 

Grafting vines, and modes of propagating with 103, 105 

In M. R. Miller's vineyard 103 

Dr. Parker's mode of : . . . . 104 

By approach, Mr. Detten's method 105 

Grafts and cuttings, mode of packing 105, 106 

Granada, Vega of, and sods of vineyards there 42, 186, 187 

Grape culture in Cal., commencement of. 7 

Case of failure in, and why 8 

Handbook of, what induced the author to write. 9 

Adapted to United States .... 9 

In Europe, geographical and thermometrical limits of. 37 

No employment more remunerative than 10 

No longer need of failure in 52 

Inducements to engage in 19 

One of the great business enterprizes of Cal 21 

Profits of. Col. Haraszthy's estimate of 21 

Grape soil in Madeira 44 

Brandy, duties on 225 

rot, never known in Cal., and why 243 



INDEX. ■ 269 



PACK 

Grape rotj Varieties of grapes not subject to 243 

not free from 243 

Predisposing causes to 24i 

German remedy for 246, 

Remedies for diseases of 245 

Insects, and mode of destroying 247 

Culture profit^able in Iowa 253 

Profits of in Illinois 253 

Growing enterprise, a grand 255 

Hints for the vintager 127, 129 

Region, Lake Shore, Ohio, extent of 254 

Vines, large in the old world, 15 

Cal 15 

"When ten years old, good for ten gallons of wine, each 28 

Analysis of wild 43 

Soil for 43 

Grapes, Mission, introduction of in Cal 8 

Best climate for 33 

Inducements to cultivate in Cal , 18-30 

Eleven reasons for cultivating in Cal 19-21 

Harvests of, in Cal. 22 

Rot, where not fatal 31 

Of Eshcol and Syria 14, 15 

Proper temperature for 35 

All European varieties of, flourish in Cal 35 

Very large vines 14 

Uniformity of ripeniug, in Cal 23 

Crops of, never fail, in Cal 23, 29, 36 

44 choice varieties of, for 100 acre vineyard 96, 97 

Modes of propagating, by cuttings 80 

layers 83 

rooted plants 98 

seedlings 102 

grafting 103 

eyes 106 

hybridizing 107 

Should not be allowed to bear too heavily, while young 127 

Best varieties of for a vineyard 131-179 

for Califoruia 133-167 

American native varieties of 167-179 

Vote on the best six varieties of, by the Fruit Growers' 

Association of Western New York 169 

300 varieties of 1C8 

And grape culture in Morocco 181-185 

Muscatel and Bloom, of Morocco 183 

Modes of packing, at the East , 196 

Citronized 197 

To preserve 197 



270 



IXDKX. 



PAGE 

Qrapes, Marketing )93 

Judicious handling of, important 19S 

Paper pockets for packing 199 

Varieties, cultivated in cold grapery 234 

Do not flourisii Iq fever and ague districts 249, 250 

Curative qualities of 257 

[Varieties of described in this book, arranged in separate 
alphabetical list, with the synonyms in italics^ as below.] 



Adirondac lYl 

Aleatica du Po 161 

Alicant 159 

Allen's Hybrid 171 

Alleppo 150 

Aviber Muscadine 141 

Amiens 141 

Anna. . . 171 

A/tseWs Large Ooal Black 157 

August Traube 160 

August Muscat 154 

Barbarossa 155 

Bebibo {of Sicily) 145 

Black Alicante 155 

Black Ghasselas 158 

Black Cluster 155 

Black Corinth 155 

Black Frontignan 134, 15() 

Black Grape from Tripoli 160 

Black Hamburg 134, 156 

Black July Early 134, 160 

Black Lisbon 159 

Black Lombardy 157 

Black Morocco 157 

B'ack Afuscadel 157 

Black Muscadine 158 

Black Muscat of Alexandria. . 158 

Black Palestine 159 

Black Portugal 159 

Black Prince 134 

Black St. Peter's 159 

Black Spanish 159 

Black Sweetwater 159 

Black Tripoli 160 

Black Valentia 159 

Blacksmith's White Cluster. ... 142 

Bloom 140 

Boston 159 

Botanic Garden, 159 



Bowker 137 

Bowood Muscat 138 

Brown Hamburg 156 

Bullitt 171 

Gambriifge 159 

Cannon Hall Muscat 138 

Catawba 172, 179 

Charles worth Tokay 138 

Chasselas Blanc 141 

Chasselas de Fontainebleau, 

134, 141, 148 

Chasselas dare 141 

Chasselas Musque 138 

Chasselas Noir. 158 

Chasselas Fanche 150 

Chasselas Rouge 152 

China Grapes 150 

Clinton 172 

Clover Street 169, 172 

Concord 169, 172 

Crevelling 169, 172 

Cumberland Lodge 160 

F'Arbois 141 

De Candolle 151 

Decon's Superb 1 39 

Delaware 169, 170, 173, 179 

Be St. Jean IGO 

Diana 169, 173 

Diana Hamburg 173 

Duchess of Buccleugh 139 

Dutch Hamburg. 156 

Dutch Sweetwater 134, 148 

Early Black July IGO 

Early Chasselas 1 3 9 

Early Sweetwater 148 

Early While Malvoise 13D 

Early Wliite Muscadine 148 

Early White Teneriffe 141 

Esperione 160 



INDEX. 



271 



PAGE 

Feher Szag6s 149, 150 

Foster's fceedling 140 

Frankendale 156 

FromenU 161 

Frontinac of Alexandria 145 

Genuine Tokay 149 

Gibraltar 156 

Golden Chasselas 141 

Golden Hamburg 140 

Grauer Muscateller 151 

Gray Tokay 149 

Grizzly Frontinac 151 

Grizzly Frontignan 134, 151 

Grosser Riessling 147 

Grove End Sweetwater 139 

Hamburg 169 

Hampton Cowt Vine 156 

Hardy Blue. Windsor 160 

Hartford Prolific... 169, 170, 174 

Herbemont 174, 1 79 

Howell 174 

Ingraham's Hardy Prolific. . . 161 

lona 169, 174 

Isabella 169, 175 

Israelia 175 

Jerusalem Muscat. 145 

Jews. 142 

Jidy Grape 160 

Kleir Rissling 147 

Kiimmel Trauhe 151 

Lady Downes 161 

Larga 140 

Le C<£ur 157 

Le Meunier 161 

Lincoln 179 

Loja 140 

Los Angeles, Mission 162, 163 

Louisa 175 

Lunel 145 

Macready's Early 140 

Madeira Wine Grape 143 

Madeline 160 

Madeline Nbir, 160 

Malaga 145 

Malaga Grapes 140 

Mammoth Santa Barbara,. . . 163 
Marchioness of Hastings . . 141 
Maurillon panache, 150 



PAGB 

Maurillon Noir panache 150 

Maxatawny 169, 175 

Miller's Burgundy 161 

Miller Grape 161 

Minor's SeedUag 176, 179 

Mission 162 

Money^s 157 

Morillon Hdtif. 160 

Morillon Taconne 161 

Morna Chasselas 139 

Moscado Bianco 144 

Moscatel Commun 144 

Moschata Bianca 144 

Muscado Rosso 151 

Muscat Austria 152 

Muscat Blanc 144 

Muscat Blanc de Jura 144 

Muscat d' Alexandria 145 

Muscat Gris 151 

Muscat Rouge 151 

Muscatel 140 

Muscateller 144 

Musk Chasselas '. . . 138 

Nepean's Constantia 144 

Oldaker's, West's, St. Peter's. 159 

Passe-longue Mvsque 145 

Passe Musque 145 

Peiho (Chinese,) 1 50 

Petit Riessling 147 

Pitsmaston White Cluster.. . . 141 

Poonak 157 

Proximen 140 

Purple Eaiiihurg 156 

Raisin d'Aless 150 

Raisin de Champagne 141 

Raisin de Cuba 157 

Raisin de Espagne 157 

Raisin de Frontignan 144 

Raisin des Carmes 157 

Raisia de Suisse 150 

Raisin precoce 160 

Rebecca 169, 176 

Red Cliasselas 152 

Red Constantia 151 

Red Frontignan .... 151 

Red Frontinac of Jerusalem. . . 158 

Red Grape of Taurida 152 

Red Hamburg 156 



272 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Red Lombardy 152 

Red Musmdine 152 

Red Muscat of Alexandria 158 

Red Traminer 153 

ReissUng 147 

Rhenv<h Red 152 

Rogers' Hybrids 169, 176 

Rose Chasselas 153 

Rose of Peru 153 

RossUng 147 

Royal Muscadine 141 

Rudcshimerherg 147 

Saint Peter's. 159 

Salisbury Violet 156 

Sauvignien noir 161 

Schloss Johannisberg 147 

Scotch White Cluster 142 

Scuppernong 177 

Sonoma Mission 162, 163 

Stillword's Sweetwater 148 

Striped Muscadine 150 

Switzerland Grape 150 

Syrian 142 

Tukai blanc 149 

Tottenham Park Muscat 145 

Trebbiana 143 

Trentham Black 1G2 

Turner's Black 160 

Union Village 178, 179 

Variegated Chasselas 150 

Valentine 156 

Verdal J43 

Verdelho 143 



PAQB 

Verdilhio 143 

Victoria ] 56 

Virginia Seedling 170, 178 

Vitis Californica 162, 167 

Wantage 152 

Warner's Black Hamburg 156 

Water Zoet noir 159 

Weisse Muscnten Traube 144 

Wesfs St. Peter's 157 

White Chasselas 141, 148 

White Constantia 144 

White Corinth 144 

White Frontignan 134, 144 

White Frontinac 144 

White Gascoigne 145 

White Hamburg 145 

White Lisbon 145 

White Metier 139 

White Muscadine 148 

White Muscat 145 

White Muscat of Alexandria 

134, 145, 146 

White Muscat of Lunel 145 

White Nice 147 

White Portugal 145 

White Raisin 145 

White RissUng 147 

White Sweetwater 148 

White Tokay 149 

Wiesser Muscateller 144 

Yedo 154 

Zinfindal 162 



Grapery, Cold, Dimensions of 234 

Varieties of Grapes cultivated in 234 

Ground, preparation of, for a vineyard 67-72 

Haraszthy, Col. A., his account of the mode and cost of planting 

vineyards for B. V. Vin. Soc, of Sonoma 74-79 

Hedges for a vineyard, of Osage Orange, mode of planting. . . . .71, 72 

High lands best for the grape 48 

Hill sides better for vineyards than flat or valley lands 56 

Hock vineyards of Germany » 261 

Horticultural Society of St. Louis, Report of Committee on Cal. 

wines 217-219 

Hybridizing, mode of 107-11 1 

Kinds of grapes for 110 

liiinois, profits of grape culture in 253 



INDEX. • 273 



PAGE 

Illustration of layers after four years' growth 91 

Diagram A of 1 acre vineyard 86 

B of 100 acres 89 

of a Dibble for planting cuttings 81 

Insects, destructive to the grape, aphis and slug, flea-beetle, thrips, 

etc., modes of destroying 247 

Inducements to engage in the culture of the grape 19 

Introduction 7, 1*7 

Iowa, profitable grape culture in 253 

Irrigation, abandoned in Sonoma and Napa valleys f>0 

Or staking not necessary 120, 121 

Isothermal and geographical divisions of the grape-growing region 

of Cal 61, 64 

Italy, produce of wine per acre in 23 

Jesuit missionaries, introduction of the vine into Cal. by 7 

Johannisberg wine, damaged by the use of manure 45 

Lake Erie grape regions, number of acres of. 253 

Shore grape regions, extent of (Ohio) 254, 255 

Lands for vineyards, price of in Cal., Eastern States, and Europe. . 21 

"Land of the Moor," the author's first vineyard in 181, 184 

Layers, Haraszthy's mode of planting by 74-84 

Modes of propagating with 83, 84 

Starting third year from cuttings 90 

How laid down 90 

Cut illustrating after 4 years' growth 91 

Cost of planting 100 acres with 92 

Table showing cost each year 92 

May be detached from parent stock second year 95 

Definition or description of 95 

Laying-out and planting a vineyard 73-111 

Lippincott's geographical and thermometrical limits for the grape 

in Europe 37-39 

List of 44 varieties of grapes for an 100 acre vineyard 96, 97 

Location, site, and exposure for a vineyard 55-66 

Various authorities and conflicting opinions thereon 55-66 

Author's choice of, at Mt. Glen wood, Yolo Co 53 

Low pruning preferred 120 

Madeira, grape soil in 44 

Wine 231 

Malaga, soils of its vineyards 42 

Mode of preparing raisins at 186 

Aspect of vineyards in ' 65 

Modes of pruning vines in 114 

Author's letter from, describing vineyards of 186, 187 

Manuring injurious to the grape in Ohio; on the Rhine 42, 44, 68 

Marketing grapes 1 98 

Meteo.ological observations and comparisons 33, 34 

Mildew and bhght, no new diseases 240 



274 • INDEX. 



PAGE 

Mildew and blight, Descriptioa of by Dr. Englemaa, President of 

St. Louis Academy of Science 24:0 

Eemedies for 241 

choice grape districts of Cal. free from 242 

Miller, M. R., large yield of White Muscat of Alexandria grapes. . . 146 

Mission grape, introduction of in Cal 7 

Early ripening of at Putah Creek 22 

Modes of propagating the vines 80, 112 

Morocco, Autlior's mode of cultivating his vineyard m 42 

Climate of, similar to that of Cal 184 

Soils on which the vine is grown 42 

Grapes of, black, etc 158 

Author's experiences in ; his first vineyard 181, 184 

Mr. Shaw's note on black Morocco grape 1 57 

Napa, soils in which vineyards are planted, no irrigation 50 

Noah, his vineyard and wine drinking 10, 11 

Number of vines per acre, table of 79 

Ohio, Lake Shore Grape Growers' Report on Soils 44 

Lake S. Grape G. Association, varietyof Grapes planted by.. . 254 

■ O'idium Tuckeri, Dr. Engleman's description of. 241 

Its destruction of the vineyards of Madeira 241 

Remedies for 241, 242 

Oporto, vineyards on heights or mountains 65 

Port wines made in 227 

Osage Orange hedges, how planted 71, 72 

Ovid, his advocacy of wine and temperance 8 

Pinching-in, how done 117 

Planting, Cuttings 80-83 

With dibble 81 

Commencing a vineyard 90 

Time of year to commence 90 

With lavers, 83-98; rooted vines, 98-101; seedlings, 
102, 103; grafts, 103-105; eyes, 106, 107; hybridizing 107 

Vines, distance apart 70 

Buena Vista V. S. plan 74-79 

Ploughing and subsoiling for a vineyard, with tiUer bull-tongue, 

etc., Col. Haraszthy's mode 68 

Can be done for $5 to $10 per acre. 69 

Rural American's mode of 68 

And cultivating 90, 91 

Cost of hiring done 95 

Pockets, paper, for packing grapes 199 

Port wine, how made in Oporto . . 227 

Portiiguese wine measure 229 

Preparation of the ground for a vineyard 67-72 

By ploughing for $5 to $10 per acre. ... 69 

For planting cuttings 69 

Clement Detten's mode 70 



INDEX. 275 



PAGE 

Preserving grapes, recipe for , , . . 197 

Preservatioa of fruit, modes of ... 255 

Profits of wine growing and wine maliing 7 7^ 93 

Grape culture in Illinois 253 

Pruning and after-culture 113-130 

Injury by injudicious summer 116 

Low, preferred 120 

Summary of operations in 2d, 3d, 4tli, 5tli, and 6th 

years 121-123 

Summer when beneficial.. 123-125 

Col. Haraszthy's mode with a sickle 124 

Country Gentleman's mode of 125 

And training the vines at the East, New York Pruit 

Fruit Growers Club's recommendation of. 126 

Roots of vines 100 

Putah Creek, eavly ripening of Mission grapes at. 22 

Vineyards in valley of 226 

Rain gauge, tables of, on Pacific coast compared with that of States 

East and Europe 32 

Fertilizing power of 33 

Raisins, modes of preparing, in Malaga 185 

Blooming Muscatelles of Malaga 168 

Sultana 188 

Quantity of, exported to the United States from Spain 188 

Raisin making in Cal., by Mr. Bugbey 190 

Sacramento County 250 

Remarks, Author's concluding 263, 264 

Remedies for diseases of the grape 245 

Rhine wines, and of what grapes made , 229 

Rice, the daily bread of the Chinese, and other nations 13 

Liquor made from, by the Chinese 13 

Roads, for the vineyard 86, 89 

To be kept clean 94 

Rooted vines, modes of planting, propagating with, &c 98-101 

Col. Haraszthy's mode of planting 100, 101 

Roots of vines, pruning of. 99, 100, 126 

Rot, grape, where most fatal 31 

Black and brown, description of 240 

Never known in Cal., and why 243 

Varieties of grape most subject to it 244 

Free from it 244 

Predisposing causes to 244 

German remedy for 246 

Sacramento County, raisins produced in 250 

St. Louis, Report of Hort. Society of, on Cal. wines 217-219 

San Joaquin Valley Agl. Fair, awards at 222 

Adobe soils in, do not produce good vines. . .. 47, 48 
Santa Clara County, grape soils in 47 



276 INDEX". 



PAfiB 

Seedling's, mode of propagating- by 102, 103 

Site, best, for a vineyard 55-66 

Soils, best adapted to growth of the vine, opinions of Downing, 

Barry, and various other authorities on 41-54 

Of vineyards in Malaga, Vega of Grenada, &c., and Morocco. . 42 

Grape, in Madeira 44 

Report on, by Ohio Lake S. Grape Growers' Association 4J: 

Rich, not necessary for the production of good grapes, dis- 
cussion of Fruit Growers' Associations of Western New 

York on the subject 45, 46 

Of the vineyards of Anaheim, Los Angeles, &c., Hittell's 

account of 49, 50 

Heavy clay, inadmissable 50 

Mellow loamy, best for the grape 50 

Good, for table grapes, Haraszthy's opinion of 62 

Adobe, not suitable for the vine 48, 55 

Solano County wines 225 

Sonoma, soils on which vineyards are planted in, no irrigation 50 

Mr. Shaw's vineyard in, and grapes from .157, 158 

Hock and champagne of 62 

Spurs, mature shoots from, less thrifty than those from terminal 

buds 128 

Staking and irrigation not necessary 120 

Subsoil should be porous 50 

Ploughing 68 

Suckers, when to break off 90 

Time to remove 123 

Summer fallowing 95 

Heat, prolonged into autumn, essential to perfect ripening 

of the grape 37 

Pruning, injury from 116, 117 

Benefits of 123-125 

The Country Gentleman's mode of 125 

Table showing number of vines per acre at various distances apart. 79 
Temperature best adapted to the different varieties of native grapes ; 

five divisions of, by Lippincott 37, 38 

Terminal buds, shoots from, mature sooner than from spurs 128 

Thermometrical range table, in California, Sacramento, Malaga, and 

European countries 33, 34 

Trenching vineyards in Europe, reasons for 67 

Wholly unnecessary. E. W. Bull's opinion. . 68 

Entirely useless. Rural American's 68 

Trimming the vine in Europe — Malaga 114 

Morocco 1 14 

Why and how 115 

Time of year for 118-120 

Tme, The origin of the 10 

History of the, continued 14 



IN-DEX. 21) 



PAGB 

Vines, Inducements to cultivate the, in California 19-30 

Somewhere 30 

Districts, principal, of California 226 

Estimated number of, in California 22 

Distance apart of 70, 75-79 

Number of, per acre, at various distances apart (table) 79 

Rooted, mode of planting 98-101 

Will be superseded by cuttings and layer cultiva- 
tion 98, 99 

Hilling up around 99-101 

Modes of propagating : 1, By cuttings, 80 ; 2, Layers, 83 ; 
3, Rooted plants, 98 ; Seedlings, 102 ; Grafting, 103 ; 

Eyes, 106; 7, Hybridizing 107-111 

Trimming of, in Europe 114 

Modes of trimming in Malaga 114 

Morocco 114 

Best modes of training in California 116 

Vineyard, the first, planted by Noah 10, 11 

Proper altitude for 64 

Best climate for 31-39 

Best soil for 41-54 

Location, site and exposure of 55-66 

The author's, in Morocco 1 82 

French, price paid for 230 

Extensive, in Napa (S. Brannan's) 251 

Vineyards, lands for, price of — in California, Eastern States and 

Europe 21 

Cost of planting small 25, 26 

Ooe acre by layers 87 

Rooted vines 87 

German and French, exposures adapted for 66 

Distance apart for vines in 73 

Preparing the grounds for 67-72 

Trenching, in Europe 67 

Soil prepared for, by ploughing, at an expense of $5 to 

$10 per acre 69 

C. Detten's mode of planting. 70 

Martin Alhoflf's 118 

Enclosure of, with a hedge 71 

First year commencing with cuttings 90 

Second year cultivating 90 

Third " " and making layers 90 

Fourth " " " " " 91 

Fifth " " " " " 91 

Sixth " " " *' " 91 

Buena Vista V. S's. mode of planting by layers 4 by 4 
feet, cost of planting ■. . ... 74-79 



278 INDEX. 



PAGK 

Vineyards, Diagram A, of one acre, planted by cuttings and layers 86 

Progress of, from first to sixth year 87 

Diagram B., showing 100 acre vineyard, by cuttings and 
layers, and the process and expense of cultivating for 

10 years, with income from the same 89 

Cost of planting 100 acres with cuttings and layers, when 

10 years old 92, 93 

Profits of, each year, with table and sum total of profits . 93 

"Wine making, cost of 93, 94 

Summary of pruning operations, 1st, 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th, 

and 6th years 121-123 

Best varieties of grapes for 131-180 

Of Morocco and Spain, compared with those of Cal. ... 181 

California wine 217 

And wine districts, some of the principal of Cal 226 

Trouble in French / 260 

German hock 261, 262 

Yinicultural progress in Cal 21 

Reese River, Reveille's notice of 26 

Yintager, definition of term 17 

Grape hints for 127, 128 

Save your cuttings 128 

Yintage, the harvest home of the vintager 1 93 

Mode of gathering the 194 

European 230 

Yintner, explanation of term 17 

Wine, production and use of, not detrimental to the cause of tem- 
perance 11 

1000 to 2000 galls, of, per acre, in Cal 29 

Among the necessaries mentioned in the Bible 12 

That will keep good 100 years 51 

Pure and cheap, the best temperance missionaries 12 

The Saviour's miracle, producing 13 

Chinese make or use little or no . 13 

Malays and Lascars prefer stronger drink than 13 

Not necessary to be made by all vine growers 14 

Estimated quantity of made in Cal 22 

No. of galls, of per acre in Cal 23 

In France, Germany and Italy 23 

Making by Pharaoh's chief butler 15 

A leading source of wealth 27 

Cost of, with details 93, 94 

And its incidentals 201 

Different modes of 201 

Growers, new idea for 211 

Making, apparatus for 202 

Mode of in Cincinnati, as described by Dr. Mottier. . 202 
" " " " Longworth. . 203 



INDEX. 279 



PAQB 

Wine making operations of Buena Yista Y. S. of Sonoma, Cal. . .204, 209 

Expense of. 209 

Growing, favorable feature of in Cal 23 

In France 230 

No. of galls, of, made in town of Sonoma in 1865 210 

Casks 212 

Of home manufacture 212 

CeUars 214 

Vineyards of Los Angeles 223 

Product of Cal. for 1866, estimate of 223 

Burgundy, in Cal 224 

Districts and vineyards, principal in Cal 226 

Port, how made in Oporto 227 

Measure, Portuguese : 229 

Madeira 231 

Crop of France 260 

Wines of Cal., destined to eclipse those of Europe 27 

German 147 

Johannisberg 147 

White, of Sonoma, of what grapes made 210 

Eed table, of same 210 

Clarifying 210 

And wine vineyards of Cal 217 

Cal., analysis of 220 

Opinion of New Orleans Delta and N. Y. Home 

Journal on 220-221 

Mr. Shaw, an Enghsh authority's, opinion of 221 

Exhibition of at Cal. State Fair, 1866 222 

Awards for, by San Joaquin Yal. Ag. Fair, 1866 222 

Anaheim 224 

Angehca, how made 224 

Of Solano County 225 

European 227 

Rhine, and of what grapes made 229 

For Americans 253 

As a substitute for strong hquors, N. Y. Journal of Com- 
merce's remarks on 251 

American 253 

French 261 

Hock and Champagne of Sonoma 62 

Sherry and Sauterne of Sacramento and S. Joaquin valleys 62 

Of what kind of grapes made. . .62-260 

Wolfskills, oarly ripening of grapes at . . - 22 



COL/OH A TIME YAR© 




SUTTER'S OLD MILL, 

Located on the South Fork of the American River, at 

Coloma, El Dorado County, California, <where the 

first discovery of gold was made, in 1848.) 

The soil and climate of this locality is peculiarly adapted to the 
culture of many foreign varieties of grapes — such as Burgundy, Green 
Hungarian, Muscatella, and others. 

The wines produced by these varieties — as well as from the Catawba 
and Isabella grapes— have been pronounced by connoisseurs (both in 
Europe and America) as eqiial in quality to any Foreign Wines. 

At this Vineyard, the following Brands of Wines are manufactured ; 

GEEEN HUNaARIAN (very choice); MUSCATELLA (Dry and Sweet;) 

EISELING; CATAWBA^ ISABELLA; NATIVE (White and 

Bed); TOKAY; HOCK; ANGELICA; SHERRY; PORT: 

BURGUNDY (Fort and Dry.) 

These Wines received the Gold Medal at the State Fair in 1875. 



ilackberrg Jnii 



incs, 4|,ordiaI5 and |irandics, Jlataurba ^i ine fiittcrs. 



Also Brandies which are now from one to four years old, and in 
great demand. 

ROBERT CHALMERS. Proprieior. 

COLOMA, CAL. 



Orders Solicited and Promptly Attended to. 



Ill f oieoi, 



SURE DEATH TO 



SQUIBBJELS, 
BATS, 




AND ALL SUCH 

^ Troublesome 



Pests - 

To the Farmers of California by the Free Use of 

STEELE'S Squirrel Poison. 

For sale by all Druggists, Grocers and General Dealer*. Price SI per box. 
Liberal Discount to the Trade, Made by 

JAS. G. STEELE & CO., 

316 Kearny St., San Francisco, Cal. 



AX£EBT LUSE. 



JNO. KliEINHANS. 



WM. JACOBS. 



A. LUBK & CO., 



"Wholesale Dealers in 



ill 



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CANNED GOODS, Etc., 

Pacific Fruit Market, 



Below Montgomery, 



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